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My current Heat exchanger is a little crispy after the 20 years of service and a few years around some road salt. I've seen several listings on Heat exchangers varying in prices from ~$800 dollars to as low as ~$200 dollars and curious if anyone has found a difference between them or has had issues with the different options out there. Trying to save penny's where I can without risking the reliability of the truck. Eventually I also do plan on adding an additional cooler in the loop but curious if size of the cooler will add (if such a thing) too much restriction. And lastly, currently I have my Trans Temp sensor located on the output of the trans, but I have read about people mounting it after the Heat Exchanger due to more stable/ accurate temp. I am curious on opinions on that. I tow a lot with it and trying to keep everything as happy as possible, eventually ordering a new valve body is on the list here in the next few weeks and hope to see temp improvements in that as well.

Currently I have a stock 47re trans as far as my knowledge ( Previous owner had it rebuild but no records of the work done). End goal is to take the truck to 300 - 350hp and cap it. I want to build a reliable towing trans out of what I have and eventually look at a GearVendor gear splitter if I ever get around to it. As it stands now though, its a completely stock motor and trans combo that all works like it should but I want to try to get ahead of the ball on doing the preventative maintenance on it. I'd like to know what I will have to get swapped out and recommendations on what to get. I'd rather overkill the trans than it give out on my 1000+ mile road trips with the Deckover trailer behind it. Any opinions are appreciated.

I’ve been trying to get rid of this fault code for years. I have done lots of resistance/voltage tests and I’ve tried like 3 different PCMs Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Hey so the truck I have is a 1999 ram 2500 5.9l cummins. lately ive been having this problem where when I come to a stop and go to take off, the truck will stay in first gear until I get rev to 2500+rpm and it will shift by itself or I can keep feathering the pedal to try and shift it. recently replaced gov pressure solenoid, speed sensor, apps sensor, I checked TV cable there is no slack in it. Ive noticed if I shut the truck off and start it back up and drive the first few stops the truck shifts perfectly fine through the gears but once I come to a few stops and try taking off it will start to stick in gears more often. Also no codes are present, any Idea of what else I can check?

Hi, I'm trying to select the correct range of gauge to monitor my 47RE with a 5" aftermarket pan. Choices are: 100 - 280 or 140 - 320 Any suggestions please? Thanks. Leaky

Driving the other day and the transmission would not shift out of 2ed, came to a stop then accelerated and no 1-2 shift. I stopped again and on acceleration 1-2 shift, very delayed 2-3 shift up and normal 3-4 shift. After next stop no 1-2 up shift and it stayed that way. Checked for codes and there were none. Checked shift cable and it had free movement, transmission fluid full but a little dirty (about 25-30k miles on it, pulling 5th wheel most of the time). I pulled the transmission relay and drove around the block in limp home mode and it drove fine. Three codes were set from pulling the relay out but that was to be expected but still no codes for governor solenoid or the transducer. With no 1-2 up shift and no codes the PCM might not be getting a signal from the transmission output speed sensor to know that the truck is moving. So before I put the pressure gauges on I replaced the speed sensor. The sensor cost $17 and removed and installed in less than 5 minutes with a 1" deep socket (have a pan to catch the fluid that comes out). Road tested and all shift points are back to normal. I have since serviced the transmission adjusted the bands. A little fine metal on the magnet and nothing else. One other thing I've noticed is when the truck has sat over night it will take 5-8 seconds for engagement when shifted into drive. I'm thinking torque convertor drain back. The Transmission mechanic say that's normal for a 47RE but I don't remember it taking that long before. What say you? How long does yours take to engage after sitting over night or longer?

Want to service my 47RE Auto Transmission and install a drain plug on the pan. B&M advertises a plug, but I have read they can/will leak. Are there any other options for a retrofit plug? If someone has done this job, what is the best location for the plug? Also, if there is Go-By article, would someone please point me to it? Thanks. Leaky

Hey Guys, Pepsi here with another article. This one I feel is pertinent for diagnosing transmission issues. I've compiled this from a few of my articles and some more threads. I also got help from my one friend Mitch who was nice enough to copy a ATSG manual for me. ALWAYS THE FIRST STEP…. CHECK YOUR DAM FLUID! Ha, yes you guessed it most times low/high fluid levels will cause tons of issues, its best to check your fluid first. Checking your fluid can save you a ton of time and agony especially if you’re following gremlins around. So to check your fluid you must part on level ground and idle your truck in NEUTRAL not Park or any other gear. Check to make sure your fluid is between the two sets of dots, either the lower set or the upper set. Also take note one says “COLD” the other “HOT” this is in reference to your transmission temperature. It’s best to have a warm engine and warm fluid when measuring hot marks. Now that you've done this, This next section will be of use in understanding what clutches do what and when. If you identify your issue from here great if not then well get to testing pressures. Shorthanded Diagnostics… The rear clutch is applied in all forward ranges (D, 2, 1). The overrunning clutch is applied in first gear (D, 2 and 1 ranges) only. The rear band is applied in 1 and R range only. The overdrive clutch is applied only in fourth gear. However the overdrive direct clutch and overrunning clutch are applied in all ranges except fourth gear. Examples… If slippage occurs in first gear in D and 2 range but not in 1 range, the transmission overrunning clutch is faulty. Similarly, if slippage occurs in any two forward gears, the rear clutch is slipping. Applying the same method of analysis, one note that the front and rear clutches are applied simultaneously only in D range third and fourth gear. If the transmission slips in third gear, either the front clutch or the rear clutch is slipping. If the transmission slips in fourth gear but not in third gear, the overdrive clutch is slipping. By selecting another gear which does not use these clutches, the slipping unit can be determined. For another example, if the transmission also slips in Reverse, the front clutch is slipping. If the transmission does not slip in Reverse, the rear clutch is slipping. If slippage occurs during the 3-4 shift or only in fourth gear, the overdrive clutch is slipping. Similarly, if the direct clutch were to fail, the transmission would lose both reverse gear and overrun braking in 2 position (manual second gear). If the transmission will not shift to fourth gear, the control switch, overdrive solenoid or related wiring may also be the problem cause. This process of elimination can be used to identify a slipping unit and check operation. Although road test analysis will help determine the slipping unit, the actual cause of a malfunction usually cannot be determined until hydraulic and air pressure tests are performed. Practically any condition can be caused by leaking hydraulic circuits or sticking valves. Unless a malfunction is obvious, such as no drive in D range first gear, do not disassemble the transmission. Perform the hydraulic and air pressure tests to help determine the probable cause. ---------------------------------------------------------------- Line Pressure Testing OK So now comes the fun part. You will need a pair of pressure gauges. I bought a pair of cheap Home Depot 0-300 psi gauges, and used some grease gun hose and then some nylon tubing to connect the two. As you can see on this chart that it mirrors the Shorthand Diagnostics section. Clutch and Band Application Chart Shift Lever Position Transmission Clutches and Bands Overdrive Clutches Front Clutch Front Band Rear Clutch Rear band Over-running Clutch Overdrive Clutch Direct Clutch Over Running Clutch Reverse X X X Drive(1) X X X X Drive(2) X X X X Drive(3) X X X X Drive(4) X X X Man (2) X X X X X Man (1) X X X X X Using this chart we can now know which test port to use for testing. Now for the testing phase. Here we can see the locations of the test ports on your 47re. Ports 1-4 are located on the Passenger side, Port #5 is on the drivers side of the transmission above the one transmission cooler line. Preparations Required..... So in order to perform these tests you MUST jack the rear axle up so the tires are off the ground, Block the front tires, and then unhook the the TV lever from the transmission side. When testing you want to watch that the accumulator moves in a smooth fashion, and that both ports are reporting where they should be. You will leave one of the pressure gauges on at the Accumulator port through tests 1-4. NOTES: -Built automatics will see different line pressures, all line pressures are for OEM transmission's. -Built Automatics will see roughly 75-90 psi at idle, and between 120 and 170psi in gear at WOT. Reverse will be over 250psi usually. -WOT Is defined as the TV lever being moved fully rearward into the open position. You should see a smooth increase of line pressure to the maximum. Test One:[Manual 1] This test checks pump output, pressure regulation, and condition of the rear clutch and servo circuit. This test is performed in M1 at 1000 rpm. Line pressure at the accumulator port should be 54-60psi at idle, and gradually increase to 90-96 at WOT (wide open throttle). Rear servo port should have the same pressure within 3psi. Test Two:[Manual 2] This test checks pump output, line pressure and pressure regulation. This test is performed in D2 at 1000 rpm. Line pressure should be 54-60psi at idle and gradually increase to 90-96psi at WOT. Test Three: This test checks pressure regulation and condition of the clutch circuits. This test is performed in D with the O/D switch off at 1600 rpm. Line pressure at the accumulator port should be 54-60psi at idle, and gradually increase to 90-96psi at WOT. Front servo pressure should be the same within 3 psi. Test Four: This test checks pump output, pressure regulation and the front clutch and rear servo circuits. This test is performed in Reverse at 1600 rpm. Pressure at the accumulator port should be 145-175psi at idle, and gradually increase to 230-260psi at WOT. Test Five: This test checks governor operation by measuring governor pressure response to changes in vehicle speed. This test is performed in Drive between 0-30 mph. Governor pressure should be 0 psi at 0 mph, and gradually increase approx 1 psi for every 1 mph. Current Version 1.0 Written by John Armstrong Jr. 01/20/2019 View full Cummins article

Looking for transmission cooling soft line kit for my 1996 dodge ram Cummins 12v truck, has 4x4, 47re transmission. Hard lines keep rubbing and cracking. Need help please.

Hello Guys, Pepsi here with another thorough article. I have grabbed this information from over a dozen threads and posts across about 6 websites. I'm going to write this up, and surmised it where applicable to try and make sense of this. Hopefully you guys will learn something from this. And as usual if you guys have something to add fell free to tell me so I can add it in. PEPSI'S NOTES: This can apply loosely to the 46re/rh series, and the early 48re series that are not actuator controlled. if you have an APPS sensor and a TV cable on your 48re then you can use this to follow loosely. However 48re line pressures are generally higher on the acceptable scale. So first things first. We need to do some testing on your current transmission set up. You should set up a table like this: Condition Stock(Unmodified) Modified (1st adjustment) Final 50% Throttle shift @RPM WOT Shift @RPM Line Pressure @ Idle PSI Line Pressure @ 1,800 PSI (Get both 3rd and 4th gear) PSI (Add in turns of the screw) Line pressure @ 2,700 PSI (Get both 3rd and 4th gear) NOTE: All 12V engines should have WOT shifting around 2,400 to 2,500 rpm All 24V engines should have WOT shifting around 2,800 to 3,000 rpm When filling out this chart I chose 2,700rpm because you want to see where your line pressure is when your just before the shift. Line pressures should be measured in DRIVE. You will want to measure them at both idle in Drive, and driving down the road, weather you use 3rd or 4th gear you should measure your line pressure across the rpm range from 1,600rpm to 2,400rpm. OEM should be between 55-65 psi at idle. A built auto should be in the 70-80 psi at idle. When testing the truck you want to have the truck in D and around 1800 rpm. OEM is between 65-75 psi. 47/48re's are between 90-95. Built autos I will expand on this below. So what do we gather from this information you ask? Several things. The health of the transmission and the line pressures at which your working with. Hopefully if you spend $5,000 for a built transmission your not seeing stock line pressures. As for your line pressures they are dictated by a few things. The number of clutches, the types of fluid used, and holding power are all dictated slightly differently. So as stated earlier OEM max line pressure as measured in the middle test port is around 90-96 psi. Regardless of weather your in 3rd or in 4th you need to monitor your line pressures. Why do you ask? The overdrive units are weak, and because the 3rd gear clutch pack is a common failure point. See the 3rd gear is a shifting clutch so it takes the abuse on the 2-3 shift, Not to mention the fact that your usually turning over 1800 rpm's under full boost. When driving around its best to try and let the transmission to select the right gear. it's better to be in the right gear then run around in the wrong one. Approxx Holding power for 3rd and 4th is below. At 90 psi of line pressure your clutches will star to slip at about 250 HP/500 lbs of torque Bumping this to 135psi gives you about 375 HP/750 lbs of torque. Bumping to 150 psi gets you well into the 450HP range. Bumping 165-185 psi is good for 500HP applications. SOMETHING TO NOTE: Now lets assume that were still at 135psi, but the clutch count was also upgraded to (6) total friction disks which itself equates to an increase of 150%. Combined with the increased pressure we now have a total capacity increase of 230% for an ultimate slip rating of roughly 575 HP or 1,150 ft lbs. Long term reliable usage, that equates to 460 HP 920 ft/lbs of torque. So take from this that if your adjusting your line pressures you should know whats inside your transmission, as there's no need to be pushing that kind of pressure with upgraded clutch counts. FLUIDS-------------------------- Now fluids also play a role in this. Transmission fluid is another easy upgrade but it is difficult to quantify how much torque capacity is increased with the various fluids on the market. However, synthetic fluids such as ATF+4 perform the worst when it comes to preventing slippage in the transmission, Dexron 3 is slightly better than ATF+4, then comes the Ford Type F. This is about the best red fluid you can run for high friction/low slippage. Hydraulic fluid seems to be the best fluid at reducing slippage although it is generally high viscosity so not friendly at 100% hydraulic fluid for cold climates or daily drivers trying to maintain peak fuel economy. RAISING LINE PRESSURES-------------------------- Now comes the fun part. Raising line pressure can increase longevity, and not to mention better shifting. However understand that there are risks associated with this. If you do raise your line pressures make sure you have a aftermarket 2nd gear strut. As it tends to bend when you get close to its limits which are about 120 psi. For most of us its well worth it to invest in one as well. WARNING ! : If you don't know if you have an upgraded strut remember to keep your pressure below 120psi. Or you need to drop the valve body and verify. Stock Band strut looks like this(and yes its bent) Below Is what an upgraded 2nd gear band looks like. OK So how does one raise line pressure? Well technically there are two different adjustments you can make inside the valve body as it is. Lets look at this photo first. In this photo we are under the Drivers side of the truck, and looking at the valve body. There are two set screws here. WARNING ! : I advise you turn these screws slowly and make small adjustments. Its much better to make small adjustments and drop your pan a dozen times then turn it a few larger turns and then find you blow out a seal. The 3rd gear drum seal can and will blow out under high pressure. And If your unsure where you stand then you risk doing more damage then good here. SO First you need to find yourself a 3/16ths Allen key and cut it up like this. Top is the key, the bottom is the modified key. OK----NOW its time to start screwing. The LEFT set screw that has the pressure plate and orange spring(in the photo) controls your line pressure. This you turn counter clockwise to raise pressure, and clockwise to lower it. Generally in a stock transmission you should see about 3-4 PSI per 1 revolution of the set screw.(ie 360 degrees) Now with a modified valve body you should be very careful about adjusting this. Some built auto's and shift kits can actually raise it closer to 8-10 psi per revolution. NOTE ! : When raising this line pressure, you should also turn the TV set screw about ½ turn as well. The RIGHT set screw controls downshifting, and passing gear. If your truck doesn't downshift early enough when you coast to a stop, you should turn this screw in about 1 turn. This screw is a slack-stop for the TV lever. The farther you turn-in this screw, the higher minimum TV lever position or throttle valve pressure regardless of external TV cable slack. When adjusting this screw you will notice downshifting sooner when you put your foot back to idle. WARNING ! : Its advised that you not turn this more then 2 Full turns clockwise! For those who are technically inclined that is .800" of an inch. When adjusting your TV cable you want to make sure it is adjusted so your WOT shifts are within your engine specs laid out at the beginning of this article. If you are running a programmer make sure that you go through and make your adjustments again especially if it is a smarty for example, and you know it will change the shift points. <<What this accomplishes is that it allows you to still have full range of motion of your TV cable for passing power, but it raises your minim line pressure, which will control your low rpm and low throttle shifting. it will also delay your shifts out a bit. A few years ago there was a spring mod that accomplishes the same thing, but unlike that mod this sets the preload on the TV Valve >> Testing and Adjustment--------------------------------- Now that you have made some adjustments, its time to hook up a line pressure gauge and get driving. What you see here is the middle test port. This is the accumulator port and has line pressure in it in all 4 forward gears. What you need is a 1/8npt grease gun hose and run it to a 1/8 tubing to get a 0-300 psi gauge. I used a 0-300 psi gauge from Home Depot, and ran it up the outside and through the passenger side of the window. I watched for my line pressures and that it stayed above the 150 psi mark when I was about 1,500 rpm or above. When I did my pressures for Bill at DTT he specified 3rd gear O/D off and that the line pressures were above 150psi at 1,700rpm. So what are we looking for? Idle in Drive should be between 75-90 psi. This idle PSI isn't as important as its the speed. Driving down the road you want to see between 120 and 160psi generally. But it depends on what your HP goals are. Also if your running a OEM stock 2nd gear band strut. If you are then you MUST stay below 120spi. REMEMBER ! : Its important to remember the number of turns that the two screws in the valve body take. When you fill out your first Modified chart, remember the number of turns on the two screws, and divide them by the increase. So for example Assume your at 3 psi per turn, So if your at 150psi at 1,800 rpm. Turning the line pressure up to 170 would be as follows. Follow the math here. Now to calculate your actual PSI increase per turn you need to take your modified (1st pass) results from your stock results. You can see the Warning below as that is how I calculated it. 170psi-150psi=20psi increase. the divide that by 3.5psi and you get 6 turns. WARNING ! : Aftermarket Valve bodies have been reported to be closer to 8psi at the turn of the screw. One poster turned his screw 6 turns and went from 150 to slightly over 200psi! Now sometimes this is due to additional clutches inside the packs, sometimes its the springs themselves as well. Either way its better to adjust slowly. 200psi-150psi=50psi increase. so 50psi divided by 6 turns = 8.3psi per turn. WARNING ! : Its advised to keep your max line pressures in the 170psi or less. Anything much over 175 there is a significant increase in blowing out seals on the 3rd gear drum. Table for about where you want to be for line pressures at 1,800 rpm Line Pressure HP MAX TQ MAX 90 psi 250 HP 500 lbs 135 psi 375 HP 750 lbs 150 psi 450 HP 900 lbs 165 psi 500 HP 1,000 lbs 180 psi 600 HP 1,200 lbs 200 psi TRACK OR STREET ONLY CONCLUSION----------------------- Now your mileage may vary. Transmission longevity maybe extended, shift points fine tuned. But my advice is to stick around these line pressures and you may yourself see some changes in your trucks performance. Hopefully for the long run. View full Cummins article

The sage of the leaking cooler lines continues. In Dec 2014 replaced the hard line from the cooler to the transmission, it started leaking. Thought it was the rubber hose with the PITA connector. Bought a replacement from NAPA, it leaked worse than when I started. Took it back apart and found it cracked by the ferrule in the hard line. NAPA replaced it under warranty. Now the line from the front cooler to the block mounted cooler is split. The replacement line is 95.00 NAPA/ 67.00 AMAZON. Just frustrated. Anyone changed out all the line for something different?

Hi all, I was towing my trailer today as I was looking at cars to buy. It is a nice, heavy 18ft trailer, but I was towing empty. I got back after pulling 150 miles and noticed spots all over the front of the trailer that could have been confused w diesel splash. Crawled under and found that the leak is on the hard lines from the trans to the trans cooler, right at a plastic retainer clip about just above transfer case. Their is corrosion there, appearing that salt got held their and it corroded and swelled and today it decided to rub through or blow a pin hole. It is a healthy leak. i pulled into parts store and bought some ATF+4 and funnel, topped it and came home since parts store looked it up and said it wasn't in stock. But I don't trust the kid, he found one line that was $92 and it didn't look just right and the truck has 2. I will try and use the part lookup tool when I get back to the house as I am working on my work iPad (ptooey!) and the tool isn't compatible. so, I will be installing new lines. But what else should I do while I am fooling w it? It is a daily driver right now. 165k miles. I have never serviced it. Never changed the fluid, but it will be getting a good flushing over the next workweek! I know there are bands, but not much else. I run highway speeds(up to 90mph) and towing good work trailer w car or sometimes bobcat or small tractor. Should I still get in there and drop the pan and look to see condition? All suggestions are appreciated. I confirmed today that I must have a failed thermostat. Running 70-80 w trailer and I just barely raised over the first hash mark, which makes it 160ish? So I need to do a search on the tstat info. thanks in advance!

Just had my transmission upgraded at Dynamic Transmission, LLC and wanted to give John a shout out. I was really impressed with his knowledge and expertise. Check out my youtube video on the work.

Hey guys, this is my first post but I have read a lot on this forum and have found help several times here. My issue now seems to be something in the electrical system causing some weird torque converter symptoms. First off, I have a 1998.5 Dodge 2500 4x4 24 valve with 177,000 miles and a 47re that has been built with a BD Stage 3 kit along with a single disk billet converter that has roughly 22,000 miles on it. It has ran flawlessly up until about a week ago. My issue is very consistent. I can take off with normal throttle from a stop and the transmission will shift perfectly 1st through 4th gear and the torque converter will lock perfectly at around the 45 MPH mark (not sure of exact speed due to 35" tires and speedo not being calibrated), and from there I can accelerate to highway speeds anywhere from 50 - 65 miles an hour with no issue. My issue occurs the second that I let off the throttle and let it idle as if I were coming to a stop and braking. The torque converter will unlock as normal, but for instance if I am going 60 mph and let the throttle go idle for even a split second and then give it more throttle to continue driving, the torque converter never even thinks about locking back up, it will simply rev high in 4th gear and drive. If I do come to a stop (or slow enough to downshift into 3rd), I can resume and shift back into 4th and the torque converter will once again lock until I get off the throttle. Basically, the converter will not lock more than one instance per 4th gear shift. It has never done this before, as normal operation would be that the torque converter locks back up after resuming throttle. My truck has two brand new batteries less than a month old with new and cleaned terminals and I have verified that all plugs on the transmission are clean and firmly pressed into each socket and all grounds are properly connected. Any assistance or advice would be greatly appreciated.

My transmission (47re) was shifting hard for a little while, and then I lost overdrive. I replaced the filter and solenoids on the trans and the hard shifting stopped but I still don't have overdrive. I replaced the APPS sensor less than 10k ago. I have read on here about a band being to tight or lose, but I don't know what this band is or if its slang. Please help, and thanks for the time.

SO the other day I was going home from work, it was snowing pretty bad and the roads were really slick and crappy so I popped the ole girl in 4x4 just for added reassurance. On my commute I have a nice 90* turn that is completely blind till about half way through the turn. Well I get to that half way part, and this grey toyota carolla was spinning and fishtailing all over the place out of control, SO I did what any reasonable 23 year old in a big 4x4 cummins would do and drove right into the front yard of some guy who lives on that corner, I drove in, drove out and kept on my way. Ran over a few rocks and such but all was good, So I thoight. I got about another 1/2 mile up the road when "crunch" "snap" "bang" happen. Not sure what was going on so I popped er out of 4 by go and all was good again. Got home and in the parkling lot of our apartment I put it back in 4 by. Drove a little and when I started to slow down there was the noises again. I checked my u-joints they are all good. I believe something inside under that diff cover is broken, loose, falling apart ect. SO any ideas what it could be? I have not had a chance to pull the cover yet. And with the snow just a coming non-stop the past few days I would really enjoy having 4x4 again lol Thanks

Well it has come time to rebuild my transmission. Ive recently replaced the governor solenoid and sensor, adjusted bands and replaced filter and fluids. Well now it is not down shifting. The forward band is worn beyond use, and I'm sure that with the shifting issues I've experienced over the last two year that the rest of the internal works are worn just as bad. Ive adjusted bands, changed fluid and filter, adjuster TV cable, replaced solenoid and sensor, and still no improvement. So it is just worn out, closing in on 200,000 miles with a stock tranny, I can't complain. :lol:So I'm doing the Sun Coast M3GA 3 Alto Transmission Kit, Sun COast Triple Disc Torque Converter, Sun Coast Billet FLex Plate/Fly Wheel, ARP Fly Wheel bolt upgrade, Sun Coast's governor solenoid upgrade it with housing, and Mag-Hytec 727 D Deep Dish Pan. What else should I change while in there? The rebuild kit from Sun Coast comes with every thing internal including shift kit for the valve body. But are there other parts I should do while Ive got the tranny on the bench, either to the truck or transmission. I am gonna replace the TV cable also as it is fraying up at the throttle connection. Thank guys.

SO it seems to be one thing after another with this truck. First the batteries kept going dead due to a grid heater solenoid sticking open, then my fuel pump went, now my trans wont shift out of neutral. All in about a 3 week span.I just finished installing my new AirDog II, bled the system and fired the truck up. Went to put it in reverse, heard the engine load down like it normally does but nothing happen. Went back to park and heard a slight grinding. Put it in drive, same thing, I hear the load but no movement. Put it back in park and a lot of grinding, had to move back to reverse then park top make it stop. Turned the truck off, I can roll the truck in any gear, Park, Reverse doesn't matter.What is/could be going on here? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Okay So I want to swap my auto to manual. I have been looking at the G56 trans in the newer Ram's. But I want to know some input here. What is the best manual to buy, mind you all I plan on doing with this truck is towing and dd basically. Not really gonna be much sled pulls or racing. What are your thoughts, from those who have the manuals?5-Speed or 6-Speed? :think:Also is the swap worth it, I know a few guys on here have swapped. So was it worth the swap? :shrug:I really want to get rid of this POS 47re I'm rocking now. Thanks guys.

2001 Dodge Ram 2500 SLT Laramie "The Black Pearl" Drive Train 5.9L 24V Cummins Turbo Diesel 192,000 Miles 47RE 4x4 4" MBRP turbo back SS exhaust 6" MBRP Miter cut stacks K&N Air Filter kit Silencer ring delete AirDog II 165 Fuel Pump Exterior Quad Cab Long Box Power Heated Towing Mirrors Aftermarket Headlights with Halos and LED's Aftermarket taillights LED Third Brake Light DIY Roll-on Bedliner also did rockers up to body line all the way around the truck Custom made diamond plate grill covers for winter Interior Kenwood CD/MP3/HD/BlueTooth Radio Overhead console with temp/trip/mpg/ect Isspro EV2 0-30 PSI Fuel Pressure, 0-1600* Pyrometer, 0-100 PSI Turbo Boost Wheels and Tires 35x12.50R17 Fierce Attitudes 3rd Gen Rims Duplicolor DIY Bed liner Custom made grill covers Painted Grill Inserts Black, Looks So Much Better

after a long and arduous battle, my vp44 has been replaced and seems to be running like a top....good fuel pressure and such....but after letting it sit for about a month, I now have to crank it pretty hard to get it to start, almost feels like it has air in the lines however I have torqued, checked and re-re-double-quadruple-checked all the lines and they are all holding fuel....?? my second question, just after I replaced my vp the first time with a used pump, that failed shortly there after, my 47re started having issues shifting out of first!! I thought it may have been a clog in the valve body, it sat for a while, but a good ****** of the valve body with brake clean and a filter and fluid replacement gave no change, I tried the speed sensor at the rear of the trany, also no luck when replacing that! it will shift fine through all gears once its out of first, but to get it out of first it needs to be at about 22-25 mph so I need a down hill run or I have to rev it to about 2700 rpm to get it to speed, then drop it to neutral and then back into gear, it will NOT shift out of first any other way.....?? please help, I am at a total loss with the trany and am pretty puzzled with the hard starts as well....I was thinking maybe apps?? it konked out today before I replaced the speed sensor when I dropped it into reverse and surged when I would shift into drive with a huge drop in rpms before returning to a normal idle but now seems to do fine, just the normal change in engine load when its put into gear.....thanks guys!!!!its a 2001 2500 about 160k miles all stock minus raptor lift pump

here is a great step by step for anyone in the middle of or wanting to do a rebuild on their tranny, the guy has 90% of his posting done and it makes for a great read, very informative!! the list of dates on the right of his page contain all the step by step stuff for the rebuild he did..... http://joelsgarage.blogspot.com/2006/03/hi-and-howdy.html enjoy!!