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Damn was getting ready to do the WT ground mod and noticed the upper mount tab is broken on my Alternator. It's a bosch. Are the bosch and denso alternators interchangeable? I've been shopping around for a replacement but seems to be some confusion about the correct alternator, depending on the eighth digit of the vin. ( in my case it's "C") Advance auto has the actual bosch alternator (based on the alternator part#) but the listing says it's for trucks with a vin: 7 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bosch-premium-100-remanufactured-alternator-al6400x/20851271-P?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*14999|L3*15587 Rock auto has an alternator for vin: C, the listing says its a bosch, but the pictures are denso. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5778228&jsn=3 Rock auto also has an alternator for vin: 7 and the pictures of it are bosch: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=273175&cc=1441320&jsn=2096&jsn=2096 I called a dodge dealer, they said item is discontinued but at least gave me the part# 5104772AA BUT a google search of that number brings up a denso alternator. A search of the actual part number on my alternator brings up a bosch: 0124525005 Which one should I use? Why is it everyone says my truck vin: "C" should be denso, but my truck has a bosch? Ok so there is a chrysler emblem on my bosch alternator, but who's to guess if it's the original factory alternator. Sure is old and beat up looking regardless. While I was in there I noticed the large positive cable that connects to the alternator (B+)? was rubbing against the top of the alternator body, wire insulation partially worn through. Glad I caught that before shorting out. Pictures:

Here's my tale of woe. '99 3500 5.9 Cummins A/T--Started out with the the torque converter lock/unlock issue, found the cure purely by accident (pulled the alternator charge line which was lying directly on the alternator away from the alternator, and problem went away for a couple weeks until the line returned to its original position--ah ha!!!). Traced the charge line, and ended up basically doing the W-T Ground Mod, things ran perfectly for about 4 years. I could not believe that crazy ground splice on the port side of the motor--engineer must have been hitting the sauce on that one. Wish I'd found this site back then!!! Forgot to mention, I bought the truck used in 2015 with only 46,000 original miles on it--when I had the tranny rebuilt at 90,000, the tranny guy told me there were some non-OEM parts in the tranny--in other words, someone had been in there trying to fix the torque converter issue thinking it was a transmission problem. This has been a source of great amusement to me, as the original owner sold this great truck because it had an "unfixable" transmission problem (and of course didn't tell me)--so thanks, MM1973, for letting people know about this easy fix even though I had to find it by accident! While on a trip out of Alaska, got a no-charge condition and ended up doing an external regulator fix to get home. Never liked the external regulator, as frequently the voltage would run high (15+). After reading MM1973's article on the fuse, decided to implement it and restore wiring to original condition (with the addition of the 5A fuse)--purchased a used PCM, sent it off to be programmed to my VIN, installed it when it returned. Lo and behold, the voltage was in the low 14s and the vehicle ran great with the exception of Brake and ABS lights (turned out the VIN programming did not take; the ABS module did not like an incorrect VIN!) and an occasional "surge" in RPM. Meanwhile, I sent the original PCM in for repair. A friend rode with me and monitored system voltage on his scanner--there was a very slight "spike" of 0.1V every time the "surge" occurred (could only see it on the graph). Strangely enough, the PCM rebuilder reported there were no problems with the original PCM (I asked them to replace that circuit regardless, which they did, and then tested for heat and vibration). When I received it back and installed it, all was well with the exception of the tranny surge--it seemed to be bad one day, and disappear the next. It was not throwing any codes, at least that my Edge reported. About 2 weeks later, while driving to work (temp was about minus 30), the surge got pretty nasty so I locked out the overdrive to smooth things out. Just before I pulled into work, I pushed the overdrive switch--it didn't shift, and my voltage dropped to 11.9. As I suspected, the 5A fuse had blown. I replaced it with a 7.5A, but still had no charging. I'm guessing the original PCM has acted up again. So I put my backup PCM in and went for a test drive. Voltage was good, and she shifted into overdrive. Problem solved, or so I thought. I turned around to head back to the shop, and got on it a little to ensure things were working properly. Instantly the voltage dropped to 11, and no overdrive. Edge pulled down a P1765, P1682 and P0753. Put the ohmmeter to the dark blue line coming off pin C3 25 to the alternator, have good continuity and no continuity to ground (same with green wire from C2 10). Going to have transmission solenoids and wiring harness replaced this weekend based on transmission guy's previous experience with similar issues. Based on the wiring diagram, it seems it has to be a transmission circuit issue. But I'm still totally baffled as to the origin of the no charge situation--either the PCM rebuilder doesn't know what he's talking about or I've got some real gremlins running around in my truck (he said it tested good, and it worked well for a couple of weeks, but now this--and after I put in the protective fuse). And full disclosure--I'm totally dumb when it comes to understanding automatic transmissions and 12V systems, but I did sleep in a Holiday Inn Express once. Sorry to be so long winded! I'd like to hear other members' ideas on this. I'll report back after the solenoid/harness replacement this weekend. Thanks in advance!

2006 dodge 2500 6speed 4x4. Alternator suddenly quits charging. Had the batteries and alternator tested. Batteries where good but alternator failed. Replaced the alternator and it’s still not charging. Replaced all 4 terminals and cleaned everything. I keep reading about these “fuseable links” but can’t seem to find any great info. I tossed the alternator power wire like an idiot. Because I thought it was just a normal wire. So temporarily I used 3 strands of 12g fuseable link wire to replace it. At the same time as replacing the fuseable link I tied in a 16g ground wire from the alternator plug to a ground on the inner fender and bam the alternator is charging. I firmly believe it’s the ground I added that did the trick. So my question is... does that mean the ground going from the alternator to the ECM is broken somewhere between? Where can I find the “fuseable link” wire, because I can only seem to find 12g and smaller from parts stores. Also, would this cause a rough idle? Like my signature says, I’m on a fresh rebuild make 1,500 miles on it. I put bosh reman injectors in and had the cp3 tested at the same time from a local shop. The truck fires up without hesitation and runs solid for about 3 seconds and then the fuel pressure dips so low the truck will stumble and die out. If you give it a little throttle it will stay running and eventually the fuel pressure stabilizes and it will clear up. I’ve also noticed Some fuel residue on the high pressure line/fitting coming out of the cp3 and some fuel residue at the base of the fuel pressure relief on the rail. I’m assuming that’s my issue and it’s letting air in the system? I put a new fpr on the rail a few months back and it never had any issue. I can post the idle/ fuel issue in a separate thread if needed. Thanks in advance for any info you can provide.

Denso Alternator Modification I'm doing this write-up in case anyone runs into the problem I did and they don't want to buy a new or find another style alternator. After I bought the diode replacement and tried to install it I realized that it was slightly different from mine. Note: The new lead is smaller in diameter and shorter than the old lead. Here is a link on how to take the alternator apart written by IBMobile. If yours is like mine and the lead comes off the side the B+ post nut sizes will be a 13mm but the steps will be the same. Tools required for modification: * Small cut off wheel or Air saw * Ball-peen hammer * Small files * Drill and bits Hardwear required: Two M6-1.0 nuts The original diode pack has the lead coming off the side sticking through 2 tabs. The new diode lead sits on top of one of the stud. Take a small cut off wheel or air saw and cut roughly where the sharpie mark is. I cut a little too much off but this is what it should look like. Drill 2 holes left of the letter B for the lead to stick through. Then use a small file to make the hole bigger. Once you can see the small U shape around the bottom of the Lead where the insulator sits, take a ball-peen hammer and bend down the metal around it so it sits flat. Youll need to trim the hole big enough that the back of the original lead insulator fits through it. Now you need to take the old lead insulator and cut out a piece for the cable to sit lower on the lead. You'll need to do this on the same side but opposite end of the flat part of the U shape. You'll also need to take a 7/16 drill bit and drill a little of the center out so the first nut you screw on can sit further down and the cable lead can sit flush on top of the nut and plastic insulator. Put everything back together and install the Alternator. Put the insulator on and tighten the first nut down. This will hold the insulator in place. Next, install the cable lead and next nut. The cable should stick out of the notch you cut. Since the diode lead is shorter there won't be much of the threads sticking out after the 2nd nut is put on. View full Cummins article

I had the check gauges lamp come on and noticed low volts the other morning, it climbed back up after a few seconds and the check gauges lamp went off but the voltage was only at about 11-12v range on the gauge (usually 13-14). I took the alternator to autozone, bench tested showed bad, got a replacement and bench tested before leaving, that one tested good. Also tested batteries, both good. I installed everything and still nothing for charge voltage though. After reading some other sites about the PCM voltage regulator going bad, I got an external voltage regulator and was about to connect it up today, but I read a post here a couple of days ago and it got me thinking about the connector/cable and testing that first. I pulled the little 2 wire connector from the alternator, started the truck and tested from the alt plug using a test lamp between the blue wire and neg- post and get light, but when I tested between the green wire and pos+ post I only get a dim light. The next thing it says to check if everything is good is the cables from the alt to the PCM but I don't know if the dim light for the green wire is good or bad... I'm about to check that out now, just wondering, do you have to remove the neg battery posts before removing the PCM connectors for that resistance check on those cables, or just keep the key turned off and pull the connectors off with the batteries connected?

So I get the low battery light otw home, barely make it home with my edge reading 9v. I pull the 2 pin plug on the back of the alternator to check to see if the computer is calling for the alternator to charge. On the hot wire I got 9v,the ground wire I get 40 ohms . Isn't 40 ohms to high for the ground? I figured it should read a lot lower, didn't know if that was why my alternator isn't charging or not.

I have been considering installing a blocking diode for Alternative energy production to prevent AC Noise from screwing things up. 1600V*100A=160kW which is far more than our trucks output. This means that I could install it between the alternator and the power block to protect all electrical components easily and cost effectively. Installing a diode eliminates the possibility of AC current because it only allows current to flow one way. I would install it between the power block and the alternator then heat shrink to prevent electrical hazards. Another option I have thought of is creating a diode bridge, however, it is difficult to find diodes with the capability of handling the current output. The only benefit to a bridge is that it would eliminate spikes due to having half of the AC wave. I don't think the average 1 max 2 volt spike will effect the electrical so much. Have a look at what I am talking about http://www.ebay.com/itm/1600V-Volt-100A-Amp-Wind-Turbine-Generator-Solar-Panel-PV-Stud-Blocking-Diode-/201025568109

thank you for looking, this is my first post after joining this forum. I have owned this CTD for a few months after purchasing it from a private seller and is my first diesel. my problems currently have started with loaning the truck to my younger brother to take to school. He left the lights on all day and came back to a dead truck. I believe while having jumper cables hooked up he was able to crank it over but had no start. it is cold but i filled with winter blend the night before, no gauges installed yet but i have a FASS titanium. my brother determined the alternator was bad (not sure how), it was bench tested as 'good' from O' Rileys although they do not test for AC interference. the most intriguing information i can relay is that my scan gauge2 volt reading shows 11.8 when the dash meter shows nothing as the truck is running. the SC2 readout does not fluctuate. other pertinent information is that i recently had my auto trans swapped and batteries tested, i got the truck back with codes 113, 380, 382. the relays may be stuck, the 140 amp alt. fuse may be blown. it is frustrating as i am not able to get to the truck to do any diagnostics of my own like take grid heaters out of the loop or run a multimeter around it. the truck is a 2002 24v. where does the SC2 get its information from? any suggestions on what to try would be much appreciated.

I was driving in hot weather up hill last week (dont know if temp related), when the "Check Engine" light came on, I noticed the volt meter was all the way down to the left most line (same as engine off position). When I arrived at the top and started on the decent; I noticed the overdrive does not work (auto trans), also the cruise control is not working, and the trans appears to slip on take off. Referencing the PCM (power control module) info; the pcm controls the above items, I have not noticed any other items on the list malfunctioning. Before I spend $400 or more for a new pcm, I would like to make sure it is the module or bad connection, ground... What is be best method to confirm the pcm is good or bad? Or is there something else that could cause the above problems? Brian

I need some help doing a very simple task but I just can't get it done. Getting old is a real bummer but I guess it is better than the alternative. This is my problem. I am attempting to install my new battery cables and I can not figure out how to un-plug the Alternator ground plug. It is located at the bottom of the left battery. I know it comes apart by squeezing or twisting the male from the female. There is one wire from the alternator to the battery neg. From the battery neg. there are two wires. One to the fender ground and one to the control box on the firewall. Both wires run through this plug and I do not want to break it, but I cant see how it comes apart. Is there a special tool?

I am posting this for my friend (neighbor to my mother). He has a 24V Ram, '01 I think. Anyhow, he has been fighting the lock-unlock problem for a while. I had him pull the alternator fuse and try it. Same thing, no change. I also put a multi-meter on the alt to test for AC voltage and it was .013 volts at the highest. I suggested checking the trailer plug and possibly the brake light switch. He did say that if he cleaned the battery terminals and reset the APPS it might be good for two months or two days. What else should he check?

Evening, all.My batteries aren't getting charged up. I had a local garage (the only garage in town) change the alternator, as they'd indicated it was bad. No, the batteries are still not getting charged. They replaced a wire from the alternator, as they said the connector was fried and corroded. When I started the Dodge up, I noted that the ammeter was just barely above the 12 amp mark (left white hash mark). I pointed that out and they said it would rise, that 12 amps was within spec. I drove around town a bit (small town) and saw that the ammeter wasn't rising at all. I took it back to the garage and they said it might be the batteries. They're fairly new (1 year old) Les Schwab batteries, their X-treme top of the line.Well, I'm willing to admit they might be fried due to having to be charged up 5-6 times. I'm taking it back to the garage Monday for one more shot at getting it fixed. I'm having suspicions about the overall competence of the folks at the garage. My main question, however, is this..How far can one drive on fully charged batteries and essentially no functioning alternator? There's a highly recommended repair facility 25 miles away.

I was turning the alternator nut to get the valves to TDC when all of a sudden the nut comes loose and now I can't get it tight because the pulley spins with the nut. I'm not familiar with how to work alternators or how to adjust them so any help is appreciated!!

I just bought another 2001.5 2500 this one is 4X4. The check engine light has come on a few times. When I do the key trick it gives me PCU P0622 and P1765, ECU P1693 (companion code). Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Well, joined the forum back in Nov... had been working on plotting out our tune up/ preventative & maintenance plans and before we got anywhere within driving the truck an additional 500 miles at most we have MAJOR ISSUES... needless to say we have have the truck parked in the driveway since we put new tires on it at the end of November, we have had to start it a few times to move it for snow removal and driveway access issues... So here goes the saga of problems... this fall we noticed that we were having issues with the truck shifting around 45 mph... after much reading on this forum, I do believe that it probably is the same torque lock/ converter issue that many have been having. So, I had been calling around to different auto part stores to research alternators as a place to start... My husband also informed me that I was not the only one who had replaced the batteries in the truck in the last year or so (It would have been nice if he would have told me that a little sooner, since I am the more mechanical of us)... We had also been fighting with the 4wd for about a year... The mechanic that we were using supposedly replaced some of the parts but I do not know which ones bc he did not record it in the system and we had issues with the other work that he said he had done at the time but upon closer inspection did not do. My brother and I traced all the vacuum lines and made sure none of them were dirty/clogged/ disconnected etc.. one or two of them were dislodged/ loose so we cleaned them made sure they weren't clogged and reattached them . We also checked the diaphragm and it seemed to move in/ out easily as well... but we did not have time to get any further in diagnosing, before many more issues started to arise... My husband had a training seminar in Denver and we knew we needed new tires so we were able to combine the trip, I didn't have time before he left to change the oil so he insisted on going to a grease monkey as well while he was down there... then literally as my husband was driving home from Denver which is about an 1 hr 30 min drive up a mountain pass; a slue of other issues started... Unfortunately I wasn't in the truck at the time and my husband is not the best at paying attention to subtle vehicle noise/ performance differences. TO all the guys out there, I love my husband very much and in no way am I trying to "dis" him, we have just been together long enough that we both recognize each others strengths and weaknesses... so back to the drive back home per my husband's account; he called me and says "Sarah I think something is wrong with the truck, if I accelerate past about 60 the vehicle will not shift, just revs highier and higher and I have never seen the rpm gauge go so high..." My reaction was, well SLOW DOWN, if it;'s not shifting it's not going to just because u give it more fuel and rev the engine. Secondly, I asked him to check the temp gauge (unfortunately, we have not installed additional gauges that I had already ordered.. so we still just have stock) and make sure that he didn't need to pull over... he responded with well I am not sure what it's normally at but it doesn't seem unusually high. Well, how about the other gears? It was sluggish to get started, even when it was warmed up... So, when he got home we parked the truck and the next day I took it out to drive it to see if I could get a better feel for what was going on. First off, the truck wouldn't start... it had been cold that night probably around -10, but the truck block heater was plugged in and when I went to drive it the temp had already warmed up to around 30... when it gets that cold I have found that the truck will usually start easier if I turn the key and wait for the "wait to start" light to turn off two or three times before actually cranking the engine. However, even with this technique (which I realize is a red flag in itself) the truck would click click click try to turn over and just wouldn't go... so I got out the trust battery charger and usually if I just put it on high for less than 5 mins the truck will start right away... no such luck... so I left the charger on for about 30 mins before it would start (when it did there was quite a bit of smoke, although I don;t remember if it was black or white). Once started, the truck idle was very slow (even more than usual) so instead of going inside, I sat in the cab and rev'ed the engine for the concern of gumming etc. It took about 5 mins before I felt comfortable to let the truck sit and run while I wasn't watching it... I let it run for about 10-15 mins before I got in for the test drive. I immediately noticed that when backing up that the truck was acting very sluggish...we live right on main st in our town which is actually a HWY, so we have quite a bit of traffic and pulling out you have to be careful and quick... Which is why I panicked when I shifted into D, hit the accelerator and the truck acted like I merely let off the brake and barely pressed the accelerator, when in reality I nearly floored it. luckily we have a second lane & parking shoulder that starts at our driveway and goes through town, so I was able to creep into it... about 2 blocks of creeping with medium pressure on the accelerator the truck seemed to kick into gear and started to accelerate more normally between about 20-55mph then I did notice that once I reached 60mph I could understand what my husband was experiencing the day prior. After driving just to the next lil town which is 1.5 miles away and back I parked the truck... called our friend that is a mechanic and just started working at the garage literally across the street from our house and started reading... Our mechanic friend said he would help us out after work at the garage (so awesome to have access to the lifts & tools)... but before we could look at the truck our other vehicle decided to have a few issues that we needed to address first (so we would have a vehicle to use), we were able to plug in the code reader and at first no codes were coming up... then we had one or two codes pop up but when he looked them up there were a slue of possibilities and I lost my notebook where I wrote them down, ugg... i blame the chaos on the holidays... We decided that a good place to start would be to change the trans solenoids, replace trans filter w/ seal kit, flush trans and new fluid. Which we were planning on doing tomorrow... in preparation for finally tackling this truck I have been reading, researching and pricing a plan of action this week. Yesterday I did order a TIMBO apps, since it was something that I was thinking about anyway... but I am just getting a little overwhelmed with what parts to address especially with the current issues that I think are somewhat inner related and I fear we will have more issues as I have read through the forum bc we have had above average luck with not needing many of the issues that people have had with this truck at much lower mileages we are at about 203k... So, I need some advice... Gauges- I want basic mechanical gauges in a pillar (EGT, fuel pressure w/ low pressure light, trans temp)... I tried to order some in NOV but had problems finding a matching set, that was reasonably priced but had good reviews (quality). It shouldn't be that difficult... so if anyone has bought them recently and has a source suggestion, please let me know! AirDog II- What do I need to order in addition to the Airdog II to install on truck? Our truck specs are on signature.. Fuel Pump- Raptor: Which model? the factory replacement (FRRP)? RP-100 or RP-150? From what I have been reading and knowing that we use the truck to tow our tool trailer & our flat bed trailer, as well as hauling all sorts of other stuff up and down mountain dirt roads, I was thinking that it would be a better idea to install the RP-100 and take the time to mount it rather than just doing the factory replacement. Any Thoughts? Automatic Transmission: What do you recommend to do while we are in there replacing the solenoids, flushing, replacing filter & kit, new fluid... adjusting bands... WHAT ELSE CAN I DO TO PROLONG THE LIFE OF THE TRANS/ fix issues? Or should I be considering a total rebuild or new one? (I am hoping that I can prolong the current one so I can budget some other stuff first)- If we do replace, I think we may convert to a manual trans set up.... Sorry this is SUCH A NOVEL, I just thought I would give as much detail as possible since I am out of my comfort zone... THANK you in advance for any help/ suggestions you can provide! At this point we need 2wd to work before 4wd!!

Is there a differance between the Bosch & Nippondenso alternators as far as the electrical hook ups? I will soon be bench testing the alternator and replacing if needed with a new one. For what I have seen online is that only Nippondenso alternators are available new. All the Bosch alternators are rebuilt units. From what I can tell, I currently have an Bosch alternator (stock) in my truck Any input on this would be helpfull.

Hey guys, was searching around on the internet trying to see if anyone else was having the same issue I am but cant seem to find anyone with the same problem, and anyone I have talked to has no idea at all. I wish I could remember what I did when it all started, what happens is it has a little lope but its not constant, it will idle fine for a second then have a lope in the idle for a second and just keep doing that back and forth. The headlights and dash lights will flicker at the same pace as the lope. I have put an external voltage regulator, a raptor factory replacement lift pump, and a quadzilla adrenaline the one awnser I did get from a guy was that the quadzilla is probally messing up and fueling way to much then normal again, which I am thinking makes sense since the turbo guage is messed up and it will read from 3-10psi and everywhere in between just sitting idle and the fp guage just got fried a while back just wanted to see what you guys thought. I do not see how it could be air in the lines because its not constant it will idle fine for a bit then go back to the weird loppy idle. The more I think about it the more I thinking the quadzilla is garbage,

Ok guys my truck has me stumped! Ill start from the begining and tell everything... My truck was doing the TC Lock and unlock at 45 MPH, after reading some stuff online I tried wiggling the black and white wire going from the battery to the alternator, stopped that problem I would just have to wiggle it every 3 weeks or so. The WTSL wasnt coming on either. So one morning(Months Later)I was leaving and my truck would idle fine but when I put it in gear I would have to push the throttle down like half way to get it to go, the truck felt like it had no power, it went to 3000 RPMs before it would shift, and when it did shift it felt like it was going to die. I pulled over like 1/4 mile from the house and turned the truck off got out wiggled that black and white wire from the battery to the alternator it ran fine. Went back home let the truck sit and about 6-7 hours later started it up, took off, and it did it again. My check engine light came on, I put some de electrical grease in the plug on that wire and it stopped, it ran fine, CEL went off for about a week, and my WTSL came on for the first time in a year. I noticed that it does it almost every morning now so what I have to do is start the truck let it idle until it warms up turn it off get out unplug and plug in the plug in the wire going from the alternator to battery and it will run fine. Also the truck will not start until the WTSL comes on which is about 10 sec after I turn the key. Now that it is doing it again the CEL came back on so I took it to pep boys to have the codes read. The technician said that I have either a fuse blown or a short somewhere because the code reader wont pull the codes off the truck. Im stumped I dont have any idea what to do next!

So... In the relay / bus box on the drivers side behind the battery. There are two leads, going into the box. A red one, and a black one. The red wire, goes to the drivers side battery, and the black one goes where? I can't seem to find it on any of the wiring diagrams. (if i am missing it on one of Mike's diagrams, please help) I am showing 12V on the black wire as well as the red, and before putting a DVM on it I had always assumed it was a ground. Does it go to the curbside battery? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1689&d=1301768556

Ok gang... I got my next task at hand. Got up this morning and had to run to McCall to do a bit of grocery shopping and when I fired up the engine I had a strange growl/howl that was unsual. Went shopping and returned home and figured I would check it out. Pull the belt and check the tensioner bearing smooth and no wooble, water pump feels good, and the fan bear is good. But get to the alternator rough and howls when spun. Assuming I found my source of noise. I know Prowelder did a write up of a alternator rebuild on CF.com http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/257771-bosch-alternator-rebuild.html Also I know he got parts from Fixinrams.com http://www.fixinrams.com/ What the best price for replacement alternators?

About 2 weeks ago I had the apps replace with a timbo sensor (previuosly I had made adjustment to my original apps 4 months ago) because it was showing trouble when shifting betwen 2nd a nd 3rd gear and also prensented the dead pedal symtom while i was driving on the freeway 65mph and when i release the pedal power was back. Any way after i replace the timbo sensor i drive over 1200 w/out any issue at all. suddenly today i was driving on the freeway 65 mhp and felt the loss of power, but my tachometer remain still @1900 rpms, so step on the gas and got power back release it to maintain 65 mph and symptom appear again then went gone. Also I notice trany again is having hard time to decide 2nd or 3rd gear operation. I'm wondering if alternator might have something to do with it, I have read the forum thread that a like from the diodes circuit might drive other systems nuts.

Ok fellas I need some help again!!!:banghead::banghead::banghead: Driving my ole truck down the road, an she started acting funny! So I started watching the gauges and everything is running ok, except the apps. The apps will be maintaining about 25% and then it will drop to 0% , and then it will pick back up an take off like nothing was ever wrong! There is no check engine light and no codes. With the engine off I can pust the pedal and it will build from 0-100 slowly or all at once! Could the tps or apps be going out on me?

I may need to do this to get my exhaust back in with new downpipe (long story). Never done before... how hard and what's the process?