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APPS Sensor Replacement Procedure Description The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) assembly is located at the top-left-front of the engine (Fig. 4). A plastic cover is used to cover the assembly. The actual sensor is located behind its mounting bracket (Fig. 5). Operation The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) is a linear potentiometer. It provides the Engine Control Module (ECM) with a DC voltage signal proportional to the angle, or position of the accelerator pedal. In previous model years, this part was known as the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Diesel engines used in previous model years used a mechanical cable between the accelerator pedal and the TPS lever. Linkage and bellcranks between the TPS cable lever and the fuel injection pump were also used. Although the cable has been retained with the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor), the linkage and bellcrank between the cable lever and the fuel injection pump are no longer used. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) is serviced (replaced) as one assembly including the lever, brackets, and sensor. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) is calibrated and permanently positioned to its mounting bracket. Removal The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) is serviced (replaced) as one assembly including the lever, brackets, and sensor. TheAccelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) is calibrated to its mounting bracket. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) assembly is located at the left front of the engine below plastic cable/lever/linkage cover (Fig. 6). Front with cover removed Rear of APPS sensor Disconnect both negative battery cables at both batteries. Remove cable cover. Cable cover is attached with 2 Phillips screws, 2 plastic retention clips, and 2 push tabs. Remove 2 Phillips screws and carefully pry out 2 retention clips. After clip removal, push rearward on front tab, and upward on the lower tab for cover removal. Using finger pressure only, disconnect end of speed control servo cable from throttle lever pin by pulling forward on connector while holding lever rearward.DO NOT try to pull the connector off perpendicular to lever pin. The connector will be broken. Using two small screwdrivers, pry throttle cable connector socket from throttle lever ball. Be very careful not to bend throttle lever arm. Disconnect transmission control cable at lever arm (if equipped). Refer to 21, Transmission. Squeeze pinch tabs on speed control cable and pull cable rearward to remove from cable mounting bracket. Squeeze pinch tabs on the throttle cable and pull cable rearward to remove from cable mounting bracket. If equipped with an automatic transmission, refer to 21, Transmission for transmission control cable removal procedures. Disconnect wiring harness clips at the bottom of the bracket. Remove 6 mounting bolts and partially remove Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) assembly from the engine. After the assembly is partially removed, disconnect the electrical connector from the bottom of the sensor by pushing on connector tab. Remove Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) assembly from the engine. Installation The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) is serviced (replaced) as one assembly including the lever, brackets, and sensor. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) is calibrated to its mounting bracket. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) assembly is located at the left front of the engine below plastic cable/lever/linkage cover (Fig. 6). Snap electrical connector into the bottom of the sensor. Position Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) assembly to the engine and install 6 bolts. Tighten bolts to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) torque. Connect wiring harness clip (Fig. 8) at the bottom of the bracket. If equipped with an automatic transmission, refer to Group 21, Transmission for transmission control cable installation procedures. Install speed control cable into the mounting bracket. Be sure pinch tabs (Fig. 7) have secured cable. Install throttle cable into the mounting bracket. Be sure pinch tabs (Fig. 7) have secured cable. Connect throttle cable at the lever (snaps on). Connect speed control cable to the lever by pushing cable connector rearward onto lever pin while holding lever forward. Install cable cover. Connect both negative battery cables to both batteries. ECM & APPS Calibration WARNING! Any time the batteries are disconnected, batteries ran dead, ECM disconnected, APPS disconnected, APPS replaced the APPS calibration procedure MUST be done again to reset the APPS idle and WOT limits. If the calibration is not done error codes and other issues must occur. Disconnect the batteries and leave disconnected for at least 30 minutes. Now reconnect the batteries. Turn the key to ON position. Without starting the engine, slowly press throttle pedal to the floor and then slowly release. This step must be done (one time) to ensure accelerator pedal position sensor calibration has been learned by ECM. If not done, possible DTC’s may be set.
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2000 5.9 24 v auto trans truck was running ok the only thing it would do is an annoying what I call a searching for gears at low rpm or over drive...so was suggested to apps reset I did here’s where things get crazy problem was solved truck ran perfect for a day then the next day started Rpm real high to change gears and if I feather the pedal it would help now today start truck start going down the road stop at light I have nothing no reverse no forward so I restart truck gears come back over and over now...stumped no codes nothing and cleaned all terminals to battery....Please any ideas...?
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Having a dead pedal issue on my 2002 24v auto. codes are p0122 p0236 p1475. problem is very intermittent. New apps sensor after confirming all apps power grounds and signals were good. when i have a pedal map and apps reading are were they should be, when problem is occurring map voltage is maxed out and apps signal is all over the place. Initially thought short between apps wiring and map wiring, could not find such short and did not notice change during wiggle test of harness nor could i measure continuity between apps and map circuit. Starting to think bad ecm, the problem did start after bleeding my low pressure fuel system getting diesel all over driver side of engine. Fuel pressure is good. If anyone could help that would be great.
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Alright so story is, was driving the truck one day stopped and shut it off came back out and turned it on absolutely no throttle sense whatsoever, figured it was a bad ebay tps so through the old one in that just mad the truck idle high, three the new one on worked great until a few days later it did the exact same thing as the other one so I decide to go to thouroughbred diesel to get a reputable apps and put it in and still absolutely no throttle response whatsoever as if the apps was completley disconnected, throws the following engine codes P1693 P0123 P0122 P0121 P0230 any ideas or help would be appreciated. Just goes back to idle. -
First time posting, I've used your advice on many previous issues reading different forums and such. Hopefully you can shoot a clear answer for me here cause I'm stuck. 1999 Dodge Cummins, I've had periodic dead pedal for the last 2 years. Would drop to an idle at highway speed and no throttle response. Shut truck off, turn back on, problem went away. Now the truck is stuck at a slightly high idle at 1,100 RPM. No Throttle response at all. I just replaced APPS with Napa replacement. No different. -Vp44 replaced 3 years ago Some other history: -one day no gauges worked and got (No Bus) on odometer. Next day "problem fixed itself" -A month ago the Wait to Start light would not come on before start up. But once running voltage would draw like grid heater was working while running. A week later "problem fixed itself". Wait to Start works fine. So after this extremely long post (sorry) are these symptoms of a faulty ECM?? -
I just received and installed my Timbo APPS and did everything the instruction said and watched his videos as well. Then when I started the truck it quickly jumped up to around 1000 rpm and didn’t drop. Tried to recalibrate once again and it still is idleing high. Please help as this is my only vehicle currently. -
This is a long story and I will try not to be long winded. This really started long before I became a member here and before my ECM crapped out so bare with me.. About 6 years after buying the truck my ECT just fell out. Very typical of a failed t stat. Thru the years and many t stats plus a couple sensors and radiator caps, most recently replaced them all again three weeks ago.Even sent one to @Mopar1973Man packed in one dollars and it worked fine for him. After installing a cheap Suncoast gauge from Auto Zone under the hood and it mostly told the engine temp was good. Something in the wiring. I hate wiring. About three years ago I started experiencing some surging in the engine, at idle and you could feel it under light throttle. It would pop some APPS codes during these episodes. Occasionally it would rev up to near 10% and pop a 0222 code and go to a dead pedal. I would have to pull off the road and wait for the pedal to come back. I did some diagnostics and it all pointed to the APPS. Had a Timbo and just did not want to buy another without knowing for sure. So I bought a cheapy off ebay for 16 bucks. Installed it and sure enough no surging. So I bit the bullet and bought a new Timbo. Put it on and every thing was good for about 5 minutes and the surging was back. I put the cheapie back on and no surging, but soon after it popped a 0222 code but still drove just fine. Cleared the code many times but always came back as soon as I started the engine. I got worried about it and put the Timbo back in and learned to live with it. Not the best way to handle for sure but it is what I did. Fast forward to about 4 months ago and all this started getting out hand. My engine temp was down to levels I have never seen. A few times I watched it drop from 170 to 135 on the scan gauge at the snap of finger. Surging was getting worse and the cruise was going wacky. Some days the surging was crazy and it would pop the 222 code, dead pedal, and then the cruise would not turn on until the engine would surge again. Just whacky behavior. The engine was throwing codes and the 4 seem to repeat themselves. 236, 237, 121, 222. The 236 seemed to be the first one of the 4 to pop. Not sure why but that how it was happening. I remember posting about this before and IIRC @Mopar1973Man said something to me about checking the MAP sensor harness or sensor not sure which now. But I did still have my OE MAP sensor from when the ECM crapped out on me so I figure I would put it in one day and see what would happen. Fast forward to today. I figured I would stick that MAP sensor in before heading back to Maryland. Pretty simple right. Well when backing the new one out I dropped the socket with the sensor in it and never heard it hit the ground. Should not be a problem beings it was a 1 1/16" deepwell socket with a sensor sticking out of it. It fell back in behind the starter and took me 30 minutes to find it. Not to mention its about 98* outside and 85% humidity and I am sweating like pig but did finally find it. Installed the old one and while trying to plug the harness on I broke the connector off of the MAP sensor. Guess it got brittle over the years who knows. Any way I put the old one back in and I am soaked in sweat and tired of F'ing with it all. I just drove 450 miles with no surging and temp gauge that read normal all the way up here. It swung between 190 and 195 the whole way. I have not seen that on my dash in 10 years. I am amazed but not sure how the MAP and the ECT are interconnected at the MAP harness. Anyway I am as happy as a mule eating briers but figure this will come back one day and need to figure out how this happened. Any thoughts are appreciated. So much for no long windedness but if I had told the whole story I would still be type for another hour.
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This is a long story and I will try not to be long winded. This really started long before I became a member here and before my ECM crapped out so bare with me.. About 6 years after buying the truck my ECT just fell out. Very typical of a failed t stat. Thru the years and many t stats plus a couple sensors and radiator caps, most recently replaced them all again three weeks ago.Even sent one to @Mopar1973Man packed in one dollars and it worked fine for him. After installing a cheap Suncoast gauge from Auto Zone under the hood and it mostly told the engine temp was good. Something in the wiring. I hare wiring. About three years ago I started experiencing some surging in the engine, at idle and you could feel it under light throttle. It would pop some APPS codes during these episodes. Occasionally it would rev up to near 10% and pop a 0222 code and go to a dead pedal. I would have to pull off the road and wait for the pedal to come back. I did some diagnostics and it all pointed to the APPS. Had a Timbo and just did not want to but another without knowing for sure. So I bought a cheapy off ebay for 16 bucks. Installed it and sure enough no surging. So I bit the bullet and bought a new Timbo. Put it on and every thing was good for about 5 minutes and the surging was back. I put the cheapie back on and no surging, but soon after it popped a 0222 code but still drove just fine. Cleared the code many times but always came back as soon as I started the engine. I got worried about it and put the Timbo back in and learned to live with it. Not the best way to handle for sure but it is what I did. Fast forward to about 4 months ago and all this started getting out hand. My engine temp was down to levels I have never seen. A few times I watched it drop from 170 to 135 on the scan gauge at the snap of finger. Surging was getting worse and the cruise was going wacky. Some days the surging was crazy and it would pop the 222 code, dead pedal, and then the cruise would not turn on until the engine would surge again. Just whacky behavior. The engine was throw codes and the 4 seem to repeat themselves. 236, 237, 121, 222. The 236 seemed to be the first one of the 4 to pop. Not sure why but that how it was happening. I remember posting about this before and IIRC @Mopar1973Man said something to me about checking the MAP sensor harness or sensor not sure which now. But I did still have my OE MAP sensor from when the ECM crapped out on me so I figure I would put it in one day and see what would happen. Fast forward to today. I figured I would stick that MAP sensor in before heading back to Maryland. Pretty simple right. Well when backing the new one out I dropped the socket with the sensor in it and never heard it hit the ground. Should not be a problem beings it was a 1 1/16" deepwell socket with a sensor sticking out of it. It fell back in behind the starter and took me 30 minutes to find it. Not to mention its about 98* outside and 85% humidity and I am sweating like pig but did finally find it. Installed the old one and while trying to plug the harness on I broke the connector off of the MAP sensor. Guess it got brittle over the years who knows. Any way I put the old one back in and I am soaked in sweat and tired of F'ing with it all. I just drove 450 miles with no surging and temp gauge that read normal all the way up here. It swung between 190 and 195 the whole way. I have not seen that on my dash in 10 years. I am amazed but not sure how the MAP and the ECT are interconnected at the MAP harness. Anyway I am as happy as a mule eating briers but figure this will come back one day and need to figure out how this happened. Any thoughts are appreciated. So much for no long windedness but if I had told the whole story I would still be type for another hour.
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My truck died in the driveway several months ago. I ran it for a couple minutes to move it to the driveway. When I went to start it an hour later, it wouldn't start. I've since been tinkering with it for months. Replaced lift pump relay. Replaced fuel filter. Tested lift pump pressure (10psi, low, but should start) Unplugged and re-plugged: VP44, PCM, VP44 relay, apps, various connectors I could reach Replaced batteries with brand new. Added 5 gallons of fresh fuel. Originally, there wasn't anything I could do to start the truck. Then I learned how to hotwire the VP44 and the lift-pump relay. I was able to start the truck this way. However, if I barely touched the accelerator, it would jump up to a high idle, and stay there. After all my tinkering, I'm at the point where I can start the truck now without hot-wiring anything. Turn key to run, until wait light goes out. Turn key to start, just a blip. (to start the lift pump) Wait five seconds. Turn key to start. But I still have this problem where all I get is idle, and high-idle. I've tried doing the procedure for resetting the apps, but just once. Did I I've done some bench testing on my apps. For the things I can check while it's disconnected, that seems fine. The wiper/resistance looks smooth on my needle volt meter. What's next? Thank you, -Mark
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Help, I went to adjust the voltage on my apps sensor, removed sensor and now there is no tag to go from. How do I adjust? I realize I shouldn't of done this... Thank you
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Hey all, I have a 2001 24v and a few months ago i started noticing the throttle acting weird / revving up and letting off on its own a tiny bit when cruising around 55mph, I would then put it on cruise control and wouldn't notice it. Then the other day I noticed after driving on the highway/ with cruise control I'd get off to get fuel and the truck would be idling high around 1k until I shut it off and re start then it would be fine. Finally on the trip home I was running 70mph with cruise control on and the cruise control cut off and the throttle went unresponsive and threw a check engine light. I did the key thing to get the codes on the dash and got p0500,p1693,p0121,p0523,p0602. I'm running a Smarty and from my uneducated google knowledge I'm assuming I have a bad apps and if I replace it I should be good to go. My question for all of you is, is my assumption of having a bad apps correct, is there anything else I should look into from those codes. Also if I do need a apps where should I buy it. My brother inlaw is a self employed mechanic and seems to get parts cheaper if thats a consideration, i'm pretty sure thats just threw people he has accounts with though such as orileys, napa places like that. All your help and knowledge would be appreciated. Thank you. -
Stock APPS Sensor Voltage Adjustment I just had a wonderful phone conversation with Rburks this morning and his chasing his problems with his idle well he happens to mention the fact he did the APPS sensor voltage adjustment and I like "OMG not again!" There is an article on the Internet that is written up wrong and need to be corrected and/or stopped being used. To clear this up more... (The best I can) The fact is that the stock APPS sensor is a rheostat yes. But APPS sensor is set at a particular voltage for the electronic switches inside that reports to the ECM if it at IDLE or THROTTLING. If the APPS sensor voltage rises above the voltage listed on the tag the switch changes to THROTTLING. Then when the voltage drops BELOW the voltage on the tag then the ECM switches to IDLING. This means the APPS sensor voltage is disregarded and idling software of the ECM takes over control of the Bosch VP44 injection. NOW... The Timbo APPS sensor... There is no set voltage tag because the switch for ON IDLE and THROTTLING is mechanical this means once the APPS sensor bellcrank gets to a particular angle THROTTLING starts regardless of voltage. So there is no voltage to adjust the APPS sensor to just a matter of taking the slack out of the APPS sensor bellcrank. So now you know why you DON'T set the APPS sensor for EXACTLY the tag voltage because now the APPS sensor idle validation switches will constantly flip back and forth between IDLING and THROTTLING causing issues with exhaust brakes, high idle software, etc. It's not about the voltage, it's about the fact of the APPS sensor Idle validation switch state... Problem #1 - Voltage on label Everyone is trying to hit APPS sensor voltage dead on what's on the tag... DON'T! This is the voltage that the APPS sensor goes from ON idle start to OFF idle state. Your voltage MUST be BELOW this number. Like on mine, the APPS sensor voltage is .519. Don't set the voltage at this set it below this mark say .480 to .490 because as you add in voltage gain or loss during normal operation of the truck it might cross the mark and go off idle and you end up with idle set at 950 to 1000. Then find out your exhaust brake, high idle and a few other things don't work! WARNING! STOP! Don't set the APPS sensor voltage to the voltage on the label this is WRONG! Like the Timbo APPS sensor, you adjust to the point you cross the dead zone and back off below this point 1/2 turn. The reason why is to keep the APPS from accidentally going to OFF idle state. As long as the voltage in the APPS sensor is below this state the ON idle signal is given to the ECM and the APPS signal is basically ignored and idle programming is used. Now if the alternator or voltage of the system changes a little bit you going to have issues of the voltage crossing back and forth over this boundary. Please set your voltage BELOW what on the tag by about 0.020 volts to ensure the voltage is low enough to put the APPS sensor in ON Idle state. If this was my truck to set I would set the voltage for .480 volts at the APPS sensor plug. Problem #2 - Where to measure the voltage? I do know why they started to measure the voltage at the PCM in concerns of the torque converter lockup problem, but this is wrong too. Now if you go over to my wiring diagrams here... And now look at Page 1 and look at the PCM on the right at pin #23 you see its labeled ACC PEDAL POS. You think this is tied to the APPS sensor?! Nope... Now switch back to page 3 now at look at the ECM on the right you find the wire at pin #28 on the ECM label ACC PEDAL POS SENS... But now look at all 3 pages this Orange/Blue wire doesn't connect to the APPS sensor at all, but it does pass the information to the PCM after it passes through the ECM (if there is any processing). So now look at Pin #25 on the ECM and you'll see it has a direct connection with the APPS. So if I was going to adjust the stock APPS sensor for voltage I would measure right at the APPS sensor or at the ECM pin #25 which happen to be light blue/black wire pin #3 on the APPS. WARNING! STOP! Don't measure the APPS sensor voltage at the PCM this is WRONG! Measure the APPS sensor voltage at the APPS sensor like Timbo does to if you're going for better measure it at the ECM. By the time you measure the voltage at the PCM there might be a minor voltage loss so the voltage at the ECM will be high so hence most people complain about high idle and other issues! The picture above is of Timbo's APPS sensor setup, but the wire color for a stock APPS sensor is Light Blue stripped black pin #3 of the stock APPS. The picture below is of the logic circuit within the stock OE APPS sensor and which you setting the voltage for not the PCM or ECM. This doesn't exist in the Timbo's APPS sensor. Problem #3 - How to adjust the APPS sensor? There is no need to yank the APPS sensor apart and mess with the 2 Torx screw on the back you can obtain all the adjustment you want in the set screw on the bellcrank. But once again don't adjust for the voltage marked on the label... Make sure to flick the APPS sensor bellcrank to WOT and let it snap back to idle a few times and check you voltage again if the voltage is changing constantly the APPS sensor is wore out and no amount of adjusting is going to fix this problem. Replacement of the APPS sensor is required. WARNING! STOP! Don't bother messing with the 2 Torx screw just adjust the set screw on the bellcrank. The problem with adjusting the APPS sensor by loosen the 2 Torx screw will now mess with the high side limit so since most of the time you are adjusting higher and find that now you can't get a full span of throttle you might come up to 5% short of WOT position. But if you just use the set screw on the bellcrank you won't effect the high side limit. Actually, once again there is no reason to adjust the APPS at the PCM... PCM has no bearing on the engine... The only thing the PCM wants to see is throttle position for an automatic transmission for shift point reasons and the PCM feed throttle information to the ECM for cruise control for later model Cummins. Still and all the ECM is more important to get the voltage value right. Problem #4 - Beware Of Out Dated Procedures After working with Timbo to understand and learning the differences of the Timbo APPS sensor and the OE APPS sensor. What I found out is that the voltage number on the label is the point at which the IVS (Idle validation Switches) toggle their position with reference to sensor ground. This why I'm warning about outdated procedures like the one over at CF.com . Being that this article is highly used and wrong, it will produce a very poor adjustment of the APPS sensor. Why? Well, the procedure requires measuring the voltage all the way at the PCM. By the time the voltage is passed to the ECM and then back out to the PCM it's lower than APPS original signal which is typical so by the time you compensate for it now the voltage is too high for the APPS sensor and its stuck in throttling mode. Please don't use this proceed linked above it will cause problems for the APPS sensor!
