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Installing A Timbo's APPS Sensor What's needed? -Timbo Apps - 10MM socket and wrench - T20 torx - Paperclip - Mutlimeter Timbo gave me a Timbo APPS sensor to install on my truck and try out. So I'll tell this much its built much better than the factory ~$450 dollar Dodge stock APPS sensor! I will say it works with the exhaust brake and is high idle ready with no compatibility issues. Timbo APPS sensor has no effect on these options and will continue to work as usual. What I love about the Timbo APPS is the fact there is no longer a need to for adjusting voltage for the APPS to function correctly or probing the PCM or ECM sockets.. And for you Timbo you need some serious Props for coming up with a simple fix for our tucks! My hats off to you sir! But Here is my quick version write up of how to install a Timbo APPS sensor. 1. First you must remove the plastic cover over the bellcrank assembly. There is 2 plastic screws inside a expanding plug. You must remove the plastic screw without pushing against them. Kind of tricky but it can be done. 2. Then grab a 10mm socket and remove all 6 bolts holding the black plate to the mounting on the block... 3. Unplug the old APPS sensor. 4. Remove the 2 Torx screws holding the stock APPS sensor. This part I kind fudge over Timbo idea and made it simple. I grab a pair of pliers grab the head of the screw and broke them loose then used a T20 bit to finish removing. This way there is no worry about stripping the heads out. 5. Replace the APPS sensor with Timbo APPS sensor in the same position and line up the slot with the bellcrank tab. Use the supplied screw. Just before you finish tighten the screw turn the sensor fully clockwise to remove extra twisting slack. (As seen in this picture) 6.Plug in the wiring and re-assemble the APPS sensor plate again with the 6 bolts. 7. Now adjust for slack. Use the supplied paper clip and insert it in the green port on the plug. Turn your key ON and look at the voltage. Now using the screw on the bellcrank stop (one towards the front) adjust till the voltage rises the back off till you hit your original mark plus 1/2 turn. Since mine was .633 I turn till it rose and the backed off to .633 and then another 1/2 turn. Your all set! WARNING! Don't try to adjust the voltage to the voltage on the tag of the old sensor. This is not required nor should be done. Timbo's APPS has no voltage to set to. Also don't bother to try and probe at the PCM this is not required ether! Take notice the final voltage on the DMV (Digital Volt Meter) is no where near the voltage listed on the old stock APPS. 8. Disconnect your batteries and do a APPS Reset. Mopar's Notes: Anyway's, just thought you could put a comment at the bottom of your Timbo APPS write up to tell people that the voltage/set screw adjustment isn't REQUIRED but certainly nice to do to avoid a dead spot at the top of the pedal movement. - Derrick Lucas
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How To Reset / Calibrate Your APPS Sensor WARNING! Any time the batteries are disconnected, batteries ran dead, ECM disconnected, Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) disconnected, Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) replaced the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) calibration procedure MUST be done again to reset the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) idle and WOT limits. If the calibration is not done error codes and other issues must occur. 1. Disconnect the batteries and leave disconnected for at least 30 minutes. Now reconnect the batteries. 2. Turn key to ON position. (Do not Start) 3. Without starting engine, slowly press throttle pedal to floor and then slowly release. This step must be done (one time)>to ensure accelerator pedal position sensor calibration has been learned by ECM. If not done, possible DTC’s may be set. 4. Turn the key OFF. NOTE: Disconnecting the batteries will not erase or reset error codes. All it does is erase the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) calibration in the ECM. As the video below will demostrate.
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APPS Sensor Replacement Procedure Description The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) assembly is located at the top-left-front of the engine (Fig. 4). A plastic cover is used to cover the assembly. The actual sensor is located behind its mounting bracket (Fig. 5). Operation The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) is a linear potentiometer. It provides the Engine Control Module (ECM) with a DC voltage signal proportional to the angle, or position of the accelerator pedal. In previous model years, this part was known as the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Diesel engines used in previous model years used a mechanical cable between the accelerator pedal and the TPS lever. Linkage and bellcranks between the TPS cable lever and the fuel injection pump were also used. Although the cable has been retained with the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor), the linkage and bellcrank between the cable lever and the fuel injection pump are no longer used. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) is serviced (replaced) as one assembly including the lever, brackets, and sensor. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) is calibrated and permanently positioned to its mounting bracket. Removal The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) is serviced (replaced) as one assembly including the lever, brackets, and sensor. TheAccelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) is calibrated to its mounting bracket. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) assembly is located at the left front of the engine below plastic cable/lever/linkage cover (Fig. 6). Front with cover removed Rear of APPS sensor Disconnect both negative battery cables at both batteries. Remove cable cover. Cable cover is attached with 2 Phillips screws, 2 plastic retention clips, and 2 push tabs. Remove 2 Phillips screws and carefully pry out 2 retention clips. After clip removal, push rearward on front tab, and upward on the lower tab for cover removal. Using finger pressure only, disconnect end of speed control servo cable from throttle lever pin by pulling forward on connector while holding lever rearward.DO NOT try to pull the connector off perpendicular to lever pin. The connector will be broken. Using two small screwdrivers, pry throttle cable connector socket from throttle lever ball. Be very careful not to bend throttle lever arm. Disconnect transmission control cable at lever arm (if equipped). Refer to 21, Transmission. Squeeze pinch tabs on speed control cable and pull cable rearward to remove from cable mounting bracket. Squeeze pinch tabs on the throttle cable and pull cable rearward to remove from cable mounting bracket. If equipped with an automatic transmission, refer to 21, Transmission for transmission control cable removal procedures. Disconnect wiring harness clips at the bottom of the bracket. Remove 6 mounting bolts and partially remove Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) assembly from the engine. After the assembly is partially removed, disconnect the electrical connector from the bottom of the sensor by pushing on connector tab. Remove Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) assembly from the engine. Installation The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) is serviced (replaced) as one assembly including the lever, brackets, and sensor. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) is calibrated to its mounting bracket. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) assembly is located at the left front of the engine below plastic cable/lever/linkage cover (Fig. 6). Snap electrical connector into the bottom of the sensor. Position Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) assembly to the engine and install 6 bolts. Tighten bolts to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) torque. Connect wiring harness clip (Fig. 8) at the bottom of the bracket. If equipped with an automatic transmission, refer to Group 21, Transmission for transmission control cable installation procedures. Install speed control cable into the mounting bracket. Be sure pinch tabs (Fig. 7) have secured cable. Install throttle cable into the mounting bracket. Be sure pinch tabs (Fig. 7) have secured cable. Connect throttle cable at the lever (snaps on). Connect speed control cable to the lever by pushing cable connector rearward onto lever pin while holding lever forward. Install cable cover. Connect both negative battery cables to both batteries. ECM & APPS Calibration WARNING! Any time the batteries are disconnected, batteries ran dead, ECM disconnected, APPS disconnected, APPS replaced the APPS calibration procedure MUST be done again to reset the APPS idle and WOT limits. If the calibration is not done error codes and other issues must occur. Disconnect the batteries and leave disconnected for at least 30 minutes. Now reconnect the batteries. Turn the key to ON position. Without starting the engine, slowly press throttle pedal to the floor and then slowly release. This step must be done (one time) to ensure accelerator pedal position sensor calibration has been learned by ECM. If not done, possible DTC’s may be set.
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I installed the timbo sensor a little over a month ago and it seemed to have worked fine for about a month then the bucking and dead pedal started again this time not as bad but still could tell it was the same problem. So I cleaned all battery cables then reset it and it worked for about another week and now is doing it again. Could the sensor I got be bad? What am I doing wrong? -
I just replaced my intake manifold gasket, checked/adjusted the valves, and swapped in some injectors (on the truck in my sig....). The truck starts, runs, and drives, but I have a check engine light with the P0222 code (APPS low input voltage). When scanned, it actually shows two P0222 codes. I erase the codes, but they immediately come back. Any ideas on where to start looking?
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Hello all. I have a dumb question for everyone. I added 2 stroke to my fuel with powerservice also. On way home i started getting 0121 code. Drove truck a couple of days later and got dead petal 5 times on way home. Tried to shut off engine twice and just kept on running. I havent had any apps codes since i got edge installed and smaller injectors. My question is will both those additives togther affect vp44 and cause 0121 code? It just seems weird it started as soon as i added them. I have a scheid hot rod vp44 and i think they have tighter tolerences. Any info would help. Im hoping i dont have to shell 400.00 for apps sensor! thanks
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I am the original owner of a 98.5 Dodge Cummins with 140,000 miles. Several months ago it started the 'gear hunt' symptoms. My local garage WAS a dodge dealer but lost the dealership back in the summer. They put a new APPS unit (from NAPA) on the truck but it did not solve the issue. I have the '1998-2002 Dodge 4th ger hunt fix" document from ATS Diesel; and a similar document from Sun Coast Diesel. Both of these documents focus on correcting potential grounding issues between the APPS and the ECM/PCM modules. After reading one of the threads here, I see that reprogramming fixed, at least one person's issue. I do not believe my truck has ever been reflashed or reprogrammed since delivery from the dealer back in 88. What is the opinion of the group? Should I attempt the 'ground fix' (no cost) first or should the truck be reflashed anyway to get updates? Closest dealer is now more than 50 miles away.
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2001 Dodge 3500, 6 speed manual transmission.... hit with the dreaded "dead pedal" yesterday but after restarting the truck, it started working again which was great so I could get back home, to work today & the truck in the shop. Diagnostics on it can't find a computer code to determine the accurate diagnosis. So now what do I do, replace the APPS now or what and see if something else shows up? I often have a trailer hooked up with horses so really hate to get stranded out some where. It's the holiday week and I got a buddy that can put one in for me if I get one ordered today so whatcha' think? :confused: Help a gal out, won't ya?
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I have a 98.5 24 valve cummins, somtimes when I start up I can barely touch the accelerator pedal and its acts like I held the thing wide open. Then I can shut it off and start back up and its back to normal. It doesnt happen at a particular time it is as random as anything. It is really driving me crazy. -
I have a 2002 CTD automatic that can't seem to decide what gear that it wants to be in or if it wants the convertor locked or unlocked between 35-40 MPH... Maybe the apps is bad? I remember when the auto manufacturers made stuff that was pretty good. They made cars that didn't blow head gaskets, didn't wear out wheel bearings, etc. GM had Turbo 400 transmissions, Turbo 350's weren't too bad either. Ford had c4 and c6 transmissions that performed quite well and the famous 9" rear end that is still the standard of many racing series to this day. Chrysler had the 727 and 904 transmissions and also the Hemi 4 speeds that were very good. Also the 8 3/4 rear ends as well as the Dana 60 used in many vehicles was durable. The 833 trans was also very durable. The slant 6 Chrysler engine was also very good. Then came the mid 70's and alot of "advancements in technology" came along which I think were disasters in some cases. Lean burn ignition systems coupled with lock up torque convertors, carburetors with tamper proof idle adjustments, light duty differentials with spider gears that failed, front wheel drive cars that blow head gaskets and wipe out cv joints all of the time, automatic transmissions that don't have adjustable linkage shift points like the old ones did so a guy can adjust it to suit his own driving style, lease cars that are designed to last 3 years, lift pumps with inferior parts known to fail and not re-engineered to perform and last, aftermarket wheel bearings that will collapse within a year, rotors that are made on a minimum so once they warp they are scrap, door handles that break and door hinges that wear out rapidly, manual transmissions that don't work properly, etc... For the money that we spend to buy these vehicles we shouldn't need "forums" on the internet to make and keep the things running. It's rediculous really.:confused: I'm just pissed off because all of these automatic transmissions these days aren't worth anything.I have rebuilt 727's and 904's in the past and they were very easy and cheap to do. I can't wait to take apart one of these "new modern" trans and see what they have in them. -
Over the past few days i've found that there is a dead spot in my accelerator pedal where either right off idle or at cruise at about 1/4 pedal the motor will drop in output, and if in OD the converter will pop in and out of lockup as if I were making wild swings with the accelerator pedal. I haven't checked for codes yet, but I haven't seen a check engine light either. Otherwise the truck runs great. New batteries recently, and I really should check contacts and grounds, but its a weird issue regardless. Any bright ideas? -
I have recently bought my first Dodge Cummins, I have been a ford guy prior and am retiring my 1993 7.3L F350 with 330k miles on it. Anyway my pickup is a '02 4X4 5-Speed, all was well for the first week or so that I owned it then it started to the this surging thing, it usually surges between 1500-1900rpm, under load, like accelerating or going up a hill, sometime way worse than other times. [*]I don't show any error codes with the ignition switch way of looking [*]I have reset the APPS [*]I have cleaned my grounds [*]Happens while both while using cruise control and not using cruise control Seems like a Timbo APPS has fixed things similar to this for others, just wanting to get some other folks opinion about if they think this could be APPS related or not. Or other ideas of what may be the cause? It looks like I'm not alone with this type of problem, seems to be many threads about it, I have tried to read most of them, but I'm still not sure... Any help or ideas would be appreciated. -
Does anybody have to reset the Timbo Apps on a Bi-Weekly basis? It has been happening now for 3 months. I disconnect battery for about 2 hours, then i reset the APPS and truck runs fine, then two weeks later i am having the same issue. Any feedback would be appreciated
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So I had a annoying slight surge when not under load at highway speeds. I did some research on this and a few other sites and ordered up a Timbos APPS. It got here in only 4 DAYS. I couldn't believe it. I can't get stuff here from Calgary in 4 days and thats only 200 miles away. Anyway got it installed, surge is totally gone and it feels like the first half of throttle is crisper now too. Great instructions and packaging too. Thanks TIMBO!!! -
I need some help with my 2001 Cummins. I have recently had some dead pedal issues with my truck and took my truck in to a diesel specialist and had him test my injector pump. My injector pump is fine according to him but he found that my waste gate was stuck on my stock turbo. While trying to free the gate, he noticed my turbo was cracked so I purchased a new after market turbo.Last year I replaced the stock exhaust to a 4" exhaust, added a new lift pump (Raptor) and all of my guages.So, while pulling my 5th wheel last weekend, I noticed some funny shifting patterns and sort of dead pedal syndrome. My friend told me his father in law had issues with his Superchip, I also have a Superchip so I disconnected it and no shifting issues anymore.I still have no power though while pulling my camper. Contantly downshifting even on the smallest hills. My new turbo came with a plug to try and trick the map sensor so I installed that and I still have the 0234 code saying turbo boost limit exceeded. Is this why my truck has no power??Anyone have any ideas of what to check or look at?Thanks
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just bought my truck about 2 weeks ago and today when i started it ,i got out on the road and it would not run over 1200 rpm i had to pull over and turn the truck off and then start it back up then it went on no problem the rest of the day. The codes i pulled on truck was PO122 and P1693 on the PCU and P0216 and P1693 on the ECU. Could somebody help on what is the problem. Thanks -
Fellas, I know this most likely has been talked about and maybe way way back I even started a conversation on it, but my surging is back and i'm looking for thoughts. All summer my truck seemed to work fine with no surging, now that the weather is getting colder , i'm starting to feel it alot. Today it's about 4-5 degrees out and when driving along trying to hold a consistant speed I feel it surging up and down. If I use cruise control it maintains speed with no surging. I'm running 16-19 psi for fuel pressure always , no codes showing in the odometer. I remember last time I had issues I did a reset on the apps, even adjusted the voltage on it, took the IAT sensor out and cleaned it .I think I remember somewhere reading if it doesn't surge with cruise it's not likely the Apps Whatever I did back then it seemed to eventually go away, maybe the weather was warming up, can't remember. Anyway, I was thinking today, i wonder if possibly the IAT sensor is getting weak or bad and now that the colder weather is here it,s not registering accurate and fueling wrong
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Ok, So I bought a 2000 dodge 2500 4x4 auto, quadcab. When I bought it is seemed to run and shift fine. I got a pretty good deal on it and was a little worried something might be wrong. Well of course I didn't know about key trick to check for codes until I started working on it at home. When I bought it there was only 1 battery, so I bought two new batteries and installed. I also bought a raptor 100 and installed along w/ fuel filter. I did both of these at the same time. Since then I am getting 3 codes. p1693, p0216, and P0123. I know the first two point to mechanical ip failure, but it still cranks and runs good. The main problem I have now is the p0123 code and my truck will not shift into overdrive or 4th. I have installed a timbo apps. that was no help. Also had tranny fluid and filter changed. All the problems seem to have started after new fuel pump and batteries installed, but that just doesn't make sense. Gonna follow mikes 14 step procedure for checking grounds and wires. pretty aggravated at the moment. -
O.K.... Trans. starting acting weired, 3-4th gear hunt last week. i recalibrated the APPS and it fixed it, then Last Night coming down the Parkway cruising at 70MPH it started what felt like either jumping out of 4th Gear or TQ unlocking only for a split second, I MEAN IT WOULD ONLY DO IT SEAM LIKE WHEN I WOULD VERY SLIGHTLY DECREASE PRESSURE ON THE PEDAL. It would only last for a split second...... Done the key trick this morning and got "122 code But here's the thing, I just replaced the APPS with TIMBOS 8-months ago. I remember that at first when i put the volt meter on it following Tims instructions on adjusting free travel my orginal voltage was way high over what the instructions said it should be. and even after talking to Tim while doing this We could not get it down...he eventualy said not to worry, just adjust the screw until voltage increase's and back it off.. Could it be the APPS Richie
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Good Morning Everybody,About 4 days ago i was driving and got a check engine light, did the 3 key on procedure and found code P1693 then the check engine light was gone, went to mechanic hooked obdII scanner and found no codes. Driving back home when i got to a stop sign i exprerienced "dead pedal" and got check engine light again, and drove home at idle speed and sometimes after a few blocks it came back to normal. I hooked obd II scanner and got code "P0223" THROTTLE PEDAL POSITION SENSOR/SWITCH B CIRCUIT HIGH. I went ahead and ordered TIMBO apps sensor, received yesterday and did the voltage adjustment, started the truck and drove it for about 15 miles and was working fine and accelerating perfect and no slack. When i got home and was parking at the driveway the check engine light came back on and again i had dead pedal. Did another scan and got the same code, started the truck and it accelerates again, could it be something else besides the sensor?I did the test for DTC P0223 i found in this website and the results are as follow:Step 1. Voltage at terminal 6 brown/orange wire on apps connector is at 4.72 volts.Step 4. Voltage at terminal 2 light green/dark blue wire on apps connector is at 4.72 volts.Step 7. Resistance at terminal 4 black/yellow wire on apps connector is at 00.6 ohms. It says that if less than 5 ohms to replace apps sensor. Could it be that TIMBO sensor is bad?
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About 2 weeks ago I had the apps replace with a timbo sensor (previuosly I had made adjustment to my original apps 4 months ago) because it was showing trouble when shifting betwen 2nd a nd 3rd gear and also prensented the dead pedal symtom while i was driving on the freeway 65mph and when i release the pedal power was back. Any way after i replace the timbo sensor i drive over 1200 w/out any issue at all. suddenly today i was driving on the freeway 65 mhp and felt the loss of power, but my tachometer remain still @1900 rpms, so step on the gas and got power back release it to maintain 65 mph and symptom appear again then went gone. Also I notice trany again is having hard time to decide 2nd or 3rd gear operation. I'm wondering if alternator might have something to do with it, I have read the forum thread that a like from the diodes circuit might drive other systems nuts.
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Ok fellas I need some help again!!!:banghead::banghead::banghead: Driving my ole truck down the road, an she started acting funny! So I started watching the gauges and everything is running ok, except the apps. The apps will be maintaining about 25% and then it will drop to 0% , and then it will pick back up an take off like nothing was ever wrong! There is no check engine light and no codes. With the engine off I can pust the pedal and it will build from 0-100 slowly or all at once! Could the tps or apps be going out on me?
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Will the apps off a auto work on a standard? And are the injectors out of a auto the same as in a standard? Both are 01 SO motors.
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Is this procedure good for my truck, 03 Dodge Cummins? I am getting P0123 in the PCM and is in limp mode. For awhile after warmed up would drive ok. Was shifting in all gears, then it stayed in limp mode and local mechanic grounded the trans relay in the fuse box, then it shifts but no OD Now stays in limp mode when not grounded in fuse box. Replaced APPS with TIMBO's APPS at http://www.dodgecumminsapps.com/index.html, Made no difference.
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The MIL was on the other day, after I ran out of fuel. Apparently my draw straw starts to suck at ~1/8 tank indicated... anyway, I thought it might be related to that, but I just hooked the scanner up and got:P0122 - Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Low VoltageP1689 - Delivered Torque Circuit FailSo, experts, what's the scoop?
