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This is new... When I start up in the morning and go into gear, the engine seems to want to die. Basically, sees like the trans is grabbing too much...any ideas?

So i got my first ever owned diesel a 1999 dodge 24v diesel w/ 235k miles on it. It has a bit of troubles here and there. Ive noticed that since I got it for such a steal of a deal so i cant complain about its troubles. But there are a few, first off from roughly 1 1/2k to 2k rpm the tranny seems to have trouble getting up and going it feels like it is slipping, the other day i had it in 4 hi and i was trying to reverse up a hill and it just felt like it was going no where the motor sounds healthy. I know this truck has a lot of power that i am not seeing because of the transmission slipping. Another thing i have encountered is my keyless entry for the truck when i press lock the horn used to buzz for me on second click now for some reason it has stopped doing that. but the bigger issue is the tranny any suggestions. the only error code i am getting is p0380 but that code doesnt have anything to do with the trans. If the trans is slipping wont error codes flash my service light on. My truck also has a k&n cold air set up and i have 4'' exhaust all the way out. those are the only mods i know of. Any help or suggestions are greaty appreciated thx brian

When i am running on the highway @ 45-60 mph with my edge att. box on 1 or 2, (do not have VP pump tapped) and push the pedal down even slightly it seams as if the trans or T/C is slipping. It feels exactly like a clutch slipping in a Manual Trans. mabe not as violent. does not do this running on stock level. T/C was replaced by local Cottman shop w/ what ever brand they carry, was suppost to be HD good for 800ft/lbs torque. Is this a T/C lock-unlock eletcrical issue???

I am just curious as to what upgrades can support around what hp inrease. To my understanding doing just torque converter and valve body would be ok for a little more hp over stock but does anyone know about how much? Also, adding on the input and output shafts, how much more can you then add? My goal for now is a Smarty tuner and 75 horse injectors.

I have a 01' 24v turbo 2500. Recently I have noticed that the truck does not want to shift at or around the 20 mph mark. I can press the accelerator down and the rpms go way up but no shift or increase in speed. But, if I take my foot off the accelerator , as if I were shifting manually, and then press back down it shifts fine and speeds up, rpm go normal and the succeding shifts are fine as well. Any ideas?

at 30 mph something weird happens my tranny slips into what i would call not all the way in gear but when i step on it it operates like it should i went to the shop that put my new tranny in and they did the pressure checks and every thing is great.he said that the throttle sensor associated with the shifting speeds might need to be reformatted(not exactly what he said but close).anybody had this done?

Just got my truck back two days ago from tranny rebuild. I went to pull out with trailer today and make around 25 miles to fuel station. Tranny temp @ 195*, gears are not catching when putting into D,3,2,1 or R. I shut the truck off and turn it back on and it would make it maybe twenty ft before doing it again. I searched for codes and received the P0500 can this have anything to do with the tranny issue? I know what the code stands for. Thanks for any help

I would like to "lock out" the T C on my 2000 CTD at times after warmup, around town, If this sounds unusual let me explain why.I have rebuilt the trans w/heavy duty parts, bands, shift kit ect, and an aftermarket HD Torque Converter, a TCS Converter I believe?When I ordered the TC, t he fellow I spoke with told me I needed a T C that locked up at a lower rpm than stock. Being a novice I said "OK". This now seems to be an issue especially around town when warm, and towing on hilly terrain. The trans does not want to unlock and shift down on hills until it is to late, and then slams out of lock up and downshifts hard and then back up to high gear and sometimes back and forth before I can stop it....very unnerving to say the least !!Sometimes the T C stays locked up after a stop and then the truck seems like it is starting in 2nd gear.. If I shift to nuetral, blip the throttle, then the truck will take off normally. weird eh??? Sorry to run on about this but I like to try and give all the info I know when asking for helpSo I ask....Is the TC the culprit??? Or is it something else? if so, What?Is this Lock out switch the answer as a temp measure? or do I need to address this with the T C supplier? Many Thanks. Randy

Reading the 4th gear hunting thread, I read that Dave3500 said his truck ran significantly better after he had a Dealer flash the computer(s). Is this something every 24V owner should do? BTW, what exactly is "4th gear hunting?" Is it an auto transmission issue? - djb

Auto trans shifting all the time at 45 miles an hour... what could cause this???

My 2001 xcab/lb 4wd Auto. 126,000 Has developed an intermitent shifting issue, it doesn't want to shift out of 1st. It does it one minute then shifts like nothing wrong the next WTF? Dave

I have a 2002 CTD automatic that can't seem to decide what gear that it wants to be in or if it wants the convertor locked or unlocked between 35-40 MPH... Maybe the apps is bad? I remember when the auto manufacturers made stuff that was pretty good. They made cars that didn't blow head gaskets, didn't wear out wheel bearings, etc. GM had Turbo 400 transmissions, Turbo 350's weren't too bad either. Ford had c4 and c6 transmissions that performed quite well and the famous 9" rear end that is still the standard of many racing series to this day. Chrysler had the 727 and 904 transmissions and also the Hemi 4 speeds that were very good. Also the 8 3/4 rear ends as well as the Dana 60 used in many vehicles was durable. The 833 trans was also very durable. The slant 6 Chrysler engine was also very good. Then came the mid 70's and alot of "advancements in technology" came along which I think were disasters in some cases. Lean burn ignition systems coupled with lock up torque convertors, carburetors with tamper proof idle adjustments, light duty differentials with spider gears that failed, front wheel drive cars that blow head gaskets and wipe out cv joints all of the time, automatic transmissions that don't have adjustable linkage shift points like the old ones did so a guy can adjust it to suit his own driving style, lease cars that are designed to last 3 years, lift pumps with inferior parts known to fail and not re-engineered to perform and last, aftermarket wheel bearings that will collapse within a year, rotors that are made on a minimum so once they warp they are scrap, door handles that break and door hinges that wear out rapidly, manual transmissions that don't work properly, etc... For the money that we spend to buy these vehicles we shouldn't need "forums" on the internet to make and keep the things running. It's rediculous really.:confused: I'm just pissed off because all of these automatic transmissions these days aren't worth anything.I have rebuilt 727's and 904's in the past and they were very easy and cheap to do. I can't wait to take apart one of these "new modern" trans and see what they have in them.

I just bought another 2001.5 2500 this one is 4X4. The check engine light has come on a few times. When I do the key trick it gives me PCU P0622 and P1765, ECU P1693 (companion code). Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

SO it seems to be one thing after another with this truck. First the batteries kept going dead due to a grid heater solenoid sticking open, then my fuel pump went, now my trans wont shift out of neutral. All in about a 3 week span.I just finished installing my new AirDog II, bled the system and fired the truck up. Went to put it in reverse, heard the engine load down like it normally does but nothing happen. Went back to park and heard a slight grinding. Put it in drive, same thing, I hear the load but no movement. Put it back in park and a lot of grinding, had to move back to reverse then park top make it stop. Turned the truck off, I can roll the truck in any gear, Park, Reverse doesn't matter.What is/could be going on here? Any help is greatly appreciated.

We have the 47e automatic transmission on our 99 Dodge Cummins... purchased with around 150K and we just rolled over 200K... When our truck was in the shop around 175K I asked our mechanic to flush the transmission and he was hesitant since we did not know whether the prior owner had regularly changed the fluids. Any thoughts? We are currently experience the torque lock problem around 45-50 mph that is addressed in several other posts on here... so we are going to replace the alternator in the next few days... So any other suggestions on preventative measures to prolong the life of our transmission would be great! Thanks

hey guys been a while and i need some more help, today i noticed a good amount of tranny fluid under my truck after the morning commute, i de-greased, rinsed and inspected and it looks like its coming from the tranny cooler lines (the "isolater blocks" had moved allowing the hard lines to rub for who knows how long) i am ordering the "DieselManor Generation 2 Cooler Line for 1994-2002 Dodge RAM Cummins" with the port for trans temp guage but i cant find the rest of the lines on the web! any ideas? dont want to go to the dealership." also when i turn on my a/c i get a plesant aroma of anti freeze with the occasional puff of white smoke from the vents. heater core going bad? im assuming if it is the heater core its a royal pain in the a@$ thanks for any and all help guys

I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 diesel. About two months ago it had a cranking but no start issue, it happened about 5 times over 3 weeks. I got a code for crankshaft sensor so I replaced it and no more starting problems. But I also had codes PO 121, PO 236, & PO382, so I sprayed some contact cleaner into the TPS since that worked the last time when I had the problem a few years ago when I got a TPS code. However, after replacing the Crank sensor I was getting operation except for surging before shifting to 4th gear. Annoying, but not enough to search the problem yet.:banghead:About three weeks ago it started from stop like it was in third gear, when I got to 25-30 mph the truck would run fine. I had that problem a few days and now instead of going into second gear it slips out and and rpm's just go up, I let the accelerator off a couple of times and seems to connect to second gear for a second and then drops out again, if I get going fast enough to reach third gear the truck seems to run better but turbo is not working and I have a top speed of 50 mph.So far I have cleaned and reinstalled every ground I can find.Cleaned the battery terminals. Changed tranny oil and filter, readjusted the bands.Installed a new TPS and set the APPS by the instructions I found here.I am still getting the same codes:PO 121PO 236PO 382Any thoughts on this? I would sure appreciate any feedback before taking it in.

Anybody ever do their own tc lock up switch? Tst products has a write up t install one for the cost of a toggle switch and a little wire. They tell you to splice into the orange and brown wire coming out of the middle plug at the ecm, run a wire to a toggle switch and then come out of the other leg to ground. Then they tell you to pull the trans relay and jump 2 specific terminals to give the tc lock selonoid constant power. The problem im having is when i jump these 2 terminals the selonoid (im assuming) starts to click rapidly in the trans. This does not seem right and i unplugged it as soon as i located the source of the noise. Anybody have this issue?according to theyre diagram ive got the right terminals and it seems as though alot of other people have done this with no issues...????

All, A while back it was requested that when I get my trans redone, I let everybody know how it runs... Since ATS is such a strongly debated company in particular. I went with the Stage 2 trans, and 1400 - 1500 RPM stall 5 star converter. I've had this a couple days, so all I have is reviews on basic customer service and how it drives. First off, it drives great. The low stall is a bit of a compromise, as I could probably be a bit higher, 1800 - 2000 RPM and I would be a bit faster and have a bit faster spool. However, I like the fact that I can grunt around town without having to rev. The kickdown is goodand seems to mesh well with my engines power curve. It doesn't feel like the previous transgo valve body and mostly stock components AT ALL! It seems solid, as any new trans should, and all the bits and pieces do what they are supposed to do. I thought about getting a Co-Pilot, but due to the stupid $$$ I spent at ATS already, I decided to see how it drives out of the shop first. At this point I am not getting a Co-Pilot, as it really doesn't seem necessary. The efficiency of the 5 Star converter is very good, and I really don't think I am giving up $600 in performance! LOL! Customer service on the sales side was good. I dealt with Patrick, and he was quick to respond to questions and what not. He was also knowledgeable and had answers for my questions that made sense and weren't just brush off answers. Due to time, I had the shop put in a new Trans Temp gauge, as mine died. I was fairly specific about the color to sales. Black face, green back light. Turns out they put in a white face, green back light. We shall see how good they are in fixing this, as it is probably an honest mistake, as I have white face gauges in there already that I am planning on replacing. The warranty and long term drivability will be something that I learn about as time goes on... But hopefully their trans does as well as some folks I know here in Denver say theirs have done. All in all, I am a happy customer in how it drives, the install through their shop in Arvada was painless, and I hope to not have to deal with the trans for a very very long time to come. Below is the trans I got for around $5300. Perhaps I overpaid a little, but Goerend has stopped selling transmissions, and Garmon/Sun Coast/BD seemed like a toss up compared to ATS right in my back yard. Plus, with ATS I didn't have to install the darn thing! [TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD=align: left][TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD=class: bodytext, colspan: 2] [*]ATS billet input shaft [*]New performance direct clutch pack and steels with 1 added friction [*]New performance overdrive brake clutch pack and steels with 1 added friction [*]New performance forward clutch pack and steels [*]New performance overdrive clutch pack and steels [*]Low/reverse band replaced with Borg Warner Red Lining performance band [*]Intermediate/2nd gear band replaced with Borg Warner Red Lining performance band [*]1:3.8 band apply lever [*]Billet Band strut [*]Billet accumulator piston [*]Precision machined forward pressure plate (machined step) [*]Precision machined lower forward pressure plate (machined flat) [*]Precision machined overdrive brake pressure plate (machined flat) [*]New direct pressure plate [*]Performance low/reverse one-way clutch [*]Machined TV valve sleeve (prevents sticking TV valve) [*]Ability to achieve 1st and 2nd gear lockup [*]Ability to circulate fluid to the torque converter in park/reverse/neutral [*]Increase line pressure [*]Improve shift quality and firmness [*]Gasket and seal overhaul kit [*]Bearings and bushing [*]ATS 5 Star Viskus Clutch Drive Torque Converter [*]ATS Extra Deep Transmission Pan [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

I've got a 98.5 24v 2WD and 47RE auto, 175k miles. When I first start the truck, it takes a long time for the trans to shift from 1st to 2nd. After that, it shifts fine thru all gears after a stop sign, light, whatever. If I turn it off and go into a store or something, when I come back and start the truck again, it takes a long time again to shift from 1st to 2nd. After it does, it shifts fine again. So, it happens whether the truck is cold or warm and only the first time after I start it. My last fluid/filter change was about 25k ago. I have a slow leak that I haven't found yet (I have seen tranny fluid on the ground behind the right front wheel) so I keep the fluid level topped off. This just started last week. I've read the entire forum and saw others with the same issue but theirs seems to happen all the time - not exactly the same as my issue. Any ideas?

I hate to speak to soon but I can hardly control myself. I finally found the permenant fix for the torque convertor locking and unlocking. Its an nv4500! I found a donor truck on CL and got the guy down to $1800. its a 2000 model and it was a dually but had been converted into a mud truck. The owner rolled it 30 minutes into his first outing and the cab and driverside body got destroyed but the motor and trans/transfercase are still good. best part is I shouldnt have to source any parts except a shifter boot. Getting it for such a good price should enable me to at least break even when I sell the engine and my auto trans/transfer case. My auto is still good and has good firm shifts but nothing takes the place of a stick in my opinion. Did I mention im super excited so I hope something doesnt go wrong. Im picking it up tuesday.

Well, I'm pretty sure my 47Re (I think? It's a 99) is toast or the converter is toast. Here's what's going on...When going from "P" to "R" you can feel the tranny "jerk" as it catches gear. All seems fine In Reverse. When you go from park to D 1 2 3 or from reverse to D123 there is no catch or feeling that it's going in gear. If I get onto it, it will finally start to move but you can tell there is major slip. On the hwy it will constantly search for a gear, grab launch forward all of a sudden, slip slow way down, or what feels like a downshift and the motor will rev way up. At 60mph I'm turning almost 3k just to keep it going. Pulled up to a relight earlier and felt the truck start to stall out. Like the TC was locked and wanted to kill it out. Put it in N and it idled fine. I'm not sure if this is just a burnt up TC or entire tranny toasted. What do you guys think?

I have my transmission out and will be turning it in as a core on a reubuilt transmission. I want to make sure the lines are clean when the new transmission goes in. What is the best way to do this? AutoZone has this, Has anyone used it before? Before the transmission came out, I flushed more than 20 quarts of fluid through the transmission. What a fiasco that was.... Anyway, when I drained the fluid to remove the transmission, the fluid was a nice clean, high dollar red. I only managed to put 30-40 miles on the fluid. Do you think the lines are ok? Could I install the transmission, fill it with fluid and leave the return line off and use the transmission to pump the lines clean? You guys have been helpful so far, and I want to thank you!

The previous owner told me about it, and I've put 300 miles on it empty and it worked perfect but I hooked up a trailer today and it shuddered bad, when I tap the brake pedal it quits. I have been surfing ebaymotors looking up tranny parts. Have any of you guys heard of RevMax convertors? They have a single billet convertor for $400, but I think they have a core charge on them and I'm too far away to send one back. What convertors have you guys used? I'm also thinking of either a full replacement valvebody or I'll install a shift kit, they are pretty cheap.

Was surfing the site yesterday and ran across a comment stating that it is not recommended to flush out the troque convertor when changing fluid?Why would that be a problem?