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Hey all! Back again with more questions lol. So I am wanting to replace the the 2 bars for steering (I get confused with what to call them my bad, tie rods I'm assuming?), steering box (planning to go with a blue top), sway bar, track bar, and possibly ball joints, alignment shop told me one or both had a little bit of play but told me I wouldn't have issues with tire wear. If there are parts I'm missing that I should replace, please tell me below! Tire wear has been fine I believe and its been about 5k miles. Need to rotate soon. I have a LOT of slop in the steering, possibly kind of dangerous at this point lol. Biggest question is what brand to go with for these components. I keep hearing on forums these days that Moog is sadly not what they used to be... I just don't want to spend a bunch of money and have parts go out in a year or less. I also do not want to spend a fortune. I also see talk about changing to the "Y" steering I believe and I'm open to that suggestion if its truly worth it and I don't have to make any holes bigger on components to upgrade and/or spend a lot more than what the stock steering setup replacement would cost. Also, when doing the steering box, how can I make sure the pump is clear of debris? It's a new pump and I'd like to re use it but I want to assure there isn't any debris in there so I don't damage the blue top. Will be buying new power steering lines as well. Planning to do it all on my own to save money and use the hobby shop on base here. If any of you know anyone semi close to Camp Lejeune, NC and they'd be willing to help, I'd love the help if I'm able to get it lol. Will definitely bring a 6 pack (or more) for that person. Also, how far can I safely drive after replacing these components to get it aligned? We have a firestone on base which would be a mile or 2 drive, off base location would be a minimum of probably 8-10 miles. Open to ANY and ALL suggestions! Thank you.

My brides 2001 2500 needs ball joints her 38" tires have destroyed her stock ones. I know the tires are wee big and the 7 inch lift doesn't help. We are ordering moog ball joints tonight and I'm wondering if any one has part #s for them. We see a lot of different part #s and want to make sure we are golden. It is a cummins and is a Dana 60 I am assuming.Any beter than moog? Thanks in advance guys :)Lance.....

Well boys, I finnally decided to replace my ball joints,@ 325k. Had them replaced around 160k, and it cost me over 1200.00 . I bought a set of XRP's from a store in Dallas a few weeks ago. I started on the drivers side yesterday around 8:30 in the morning, finally got them both out around 1:00, man were they stuck. Broke 2- 1/2" Craftsman breaker bars and 2 cm ratchets and 1 Snapon. Went to Sears in Arlington to change them out, lunch. Went to Northern Tool and bought a 900 ft lb 1/2" air ratchet, since my Stanley wouldn't hack it. The new one didn't hack it either. I had bought a ball joint press from HF, and man is it junk. Broke the middle receiver spacer on the upper, had to drop back and punt. Anyway, finally got them installed and moved to the right side around 5:15 and they were as bad as the other side. Soaked them both with PB Blaster, put the new BJ's in the freezer and called it quits for the night. Hit the other two around 1:00 this afternoon, after going back to Sears to change out 1 more breaker bar and another ratchet. I hit the upper with the new a/r and just kept after it. Finally came out, got the lower out with a little persuasion and a rap with the 3lb sledge. This was my first attempt at B/J's. I didn't think that it would take as long as it did, the guy on u tube did one side in 30 mins. I don't know about anyone else's luck, but i'd stay away from the HF press.

So what should I know heading into this project? I came across this somewhere (maybe it was even here somewhere, can't remember) and wonder what you guys say about it. http://www.turbodieselregister.com/tdrarticles/tdrarticle53_fromtheshopfloor.html I plan to go with Moog parts. What about the alignment, I understand that getting things set precisely is important on these trucks. I have a serious wandering problem and hope to gain a lot of ground with this problem.

To remove wheel bearings you must first get to them.I left one tire on the ground the other i used a jack stand to get it off the ground.The rotor can be a major pain.I use a air hammer with a dime size bit and hammer around the lugs.Some times this works.If the rotors are trashed just beat them.You will crack them but if there trashed and you are going to replace them then it is no biggie.You need to remove the brake caliper and the bracket that holds it.Be careful not to bend the dust cover it is sandwitched between the wb and the housing.Use a bungie or a coat hanger to hold up the caliper out of the way. The axle nut should stay on.Remove the 4 bolts 1/2 way out that hold the wheel bearing.Get a helper(wife will do) Start the engine.Get a socket extention,(or you can buy the 60 dollar tool) i used a 4 incher turn the steering wheel slow until the tool hits the bolt head then turn the steering wheel until the bolt and tool hits the flange of the axle.Now give it a firm tug after it stops.What you are doing is using the power steering to press the wheel bearing out.Repete the same way for the other 3 bolts.Check the bolt depth make sure you dont press if the bolt bottomed out,turn it out more.The axle will come out with the wheel bearing.Now remove the cotter pin and nut. Clean the hole where the wheel bearing goes into.I used a green scotch bright pad. Now you need to use anti seize on the new wheelbearing.Use it on the face of the axle,and in the hole Now would be a good time to put ball joints and u joint. I replaced the rotor,wb,u-joint,upper and lower ball joints.

I started my ball joint replacement today. It took a while to find the 1-11/16 socket. All the sears around me were out of them and the parts stores wanted 40$+. I am down to removing the Hubs. I tried the socket and power steering trick to no avail. Sledge hammer did not work either. Hubs have had a daily dose of PB blaster since Wednesday. Going to try a portapower tomorrow. I think I can get in to bite on the outer C. any other suggestions? Any homemade hub pullers? Do the Hub pullers push on the axle shaft? I have searched both forum and could not find much. Thanks Eric

Ok here is my dilemma my truck had just turned 100,000k. I have been having trouble with the ABS when I go to pull in to a parking spot or roll up to a stop sign my brake pedal push back hard and I can’t stop. I was told it may be a sensor, my mechanic said it also could be ball joints or bearings too. I have had it disconnected the ABS for a long time. Now I need to put in ball joints, they are real bad, Should I just change out the hub too. I don’t have the extra money for this. Or should I just do the ball joints and see what happens. I guess my question is how long can you go on stock wheel bearing? The Hubs do come with an ABS sensor right? Thanks for your input Eric Ps what’s the adjustable ball joints for?