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For all of you that are looking to help you Cummins Turbo Diesel breathe better well there is several different kits, filters, etc. on the market. I'm not going to bend your arm to follow my lead but I will explain why I made this choice.First off there are filters like K & N on the market that are washable and re-useable. Well I'm going to suggest you forget using these filters. When you wash a filter your going to put wear on the media and eventually open holes up in the media to allow passage of dirt. Another problem is most people over oil the filters and the turbo sucks oil in on the compressor wheel. If there is a dirt leak you will see a dirt compressor wheel and it will cause turbo damage.So when you look at a BHAF or similar filter you will see a completely sealed unit. There is no way for dirt to get pass the filter into the engine. Also the BHAF is roughly 3x bigger than the stock panel filter so this allows more air to enter the engine unrestricted. Another bonus is the media is a dry paper element so the dirt will not stick to the media and cause it to plug premature.The down side to a BHAF is the price. They are roughly $50-60 bucks. So if your smart you buy a filter and get the outerwears pre-filter for it. It will protect the filter from heavy dust and water. It will make the filter last for a very long time.I've gotten about 60K miles on my BHAF now and it is now just getting really dirty.Here is also the listing of different part numbers for a BHAF below...Part Numbers of BHAF filters

I Got my BHAF Filter from carquest today & when i tried to install it i cannot make the hose fit the back of filter. Is there a pipe that must connect the two?????? :confused:

Well here we go. I have a AFE intake filter stage 1, a friends idea is the stock filter is better then the AFE, in that it is not sealed good enough to keep the hot air from the engine from being sucked in,and that these type of filters itself will get pin holes and allow dirt in, thus losing horse power, were as the stock air filter draws from the cooler air in the fender and do not get the pin holes, any thoughts.............thanks

While poking around under the hood yesterday, I decided to check out the air box. The FILTER MINDER said everything is good... The FILTER didn't agree !!

ive been seeing on here alot of people running a BHAF. what exactly is this, what are the advantages of running one? sorry if this is a dumb question but i havent ever heard of this

Well I had been noticing that my filter seemed a little bit dirty but never thought to check the turbo Yesterday I noticed it had an oil residue which I could of sworn it was perfectly clean with the oem filter 15,000 miles ago I just picked up and replaced with the napa 6637 part number filter Do you think my amsoil filter wasn't working so great or would this residue be from a seal within the turbo? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys, new here. This subject is what has got me registered here and staying here now. I looked on moparmans tech articles and saw the one about the BHAF.So I got under the hood and out of curiosity, I gave it all a looky-loo. What I found next was un-nerving. The tube to the turbo inlet was taken off and the inlet to the turbo looked exactly like the picture of the one in his article. Upon further reading, it turns out that it is because of those good ol' k&n filters. Well, it turns out I have one too!The thing is, I'm nervous about what damage it may have caused. Any debris like that is NOT good! My truck seems to run and perform just fine, but I can also be on bought time. I check the air filter and the filter is downright pitiful! It is just caked with crap! I'm surprised the truck has not sucked down the minder.I checked the minder and it is operational. Although, I cannot figure out how to remove the minder from the housing? The rubber is one piece and I do not want to break the minder. Any tricks?I'm gonna look into the BHAF tomorrow and see if my local NAPA has one. Would anyone know if they or someone else would carry the sock for it too? Would the sock be of any benefit?I realize I will lose the coldflow because it will suck in air from the engine bay, so has anyone made a box for them or something of the sort?

Yesterday I checked my air filter and found that a mouse had started chewing it. No gaping hole, but getting there. I realized that the factory air box is nothing more than a nice "mouse motel" and decided that it was time for a BHAF as they are covered with steel mesh and not so easy to eat through.I did a search and didn't find too much regarding how to mount this thing so I thought of making a steel bracket from 1.5" x 10" steel strap 1/16" thick, [see last photo]. I drilled a 5/16" hole in the end of the air filter and put a bolt with a large flat washer through from the inside and bolted the bracket to it using thread locker and two nuts so the bolt couldn't come loose (and go through the turbo). The bolt fits the hole very tight so I don't have to worry if it did happen to come loose. As you can see I used some RTV silicone to cover the nuts and prevent corrosion. I then drilled a 11/16" hole for the air filter monitor and installed it. I attached it to the fender with a exhisting 13mm fender bolt. I made that side of the bracket with slot instead of a hole, so that when I want to remove the air filter all I have to do is loosen the 13mm bolt and the pipe clamp on the other end, and lift it out.The filter sits about 3/4" below the hood, and has several inches of clearance under and around it. I did think of making a heat sheild, however, after talking to Mopar1973man decided not to. Mike says that they aren't necessary so I thought I would try it this way without one.The filter is a NAPA #6637 and was about $62 total.Any input pro or con is welcome. Always trying to build a better mouse trap (pardon the pun).Bob

I got the Donaldson B105006 off E-Bay for $52.25 shipped to my door. When I removed the filter box the I found that the 3 retaining bolts are built in to the fender. What do you do in order to mount the BHAF? Do you grind them off level with the top of the fender, or leave then as they are? MOHOK

What is the verdict on using a Fram BHAF? I have used Fram oil filters on my truck for 85k miles without any problems. I used Fram Air Filters on my truck before I got the S&B Cold Air Intake. I think the S&B upgrade was a waste of money. Additionally, I have run Fram filters in most of the vehicles I have owned over the past 50 years. Mohok

Where do you find these filters? and what are there referance #'s

So i thought i'd go out and remove the silencer ring today for kicks (not a big difference in whistle IMO ) and this is what my turbo looks like. Is the oil residue normal,and if you look close it looks as if the impeller or whatever you call it, rubs the housing, but I can spin it and it doesn't scrape at all even though it awefully clean where it spins. I pull in and out with no movement that I can tell and maybe a hint of up and down movement. On a last note, sorry to beat this boost elbow to death but the picture with the elbow and the hose coming off it, is that where I install the new one? Here's the turbo pics Which of the three here is the one to get, or in the end are they all going to be just as good? http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/bd-diesel/performance-elbow.htm http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/edge/boost-elbow.htm http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/adjustable-turbocharger-boost-elbow-fitting-cummins-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eb4512df4QQitemZ200593714676QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I have had a few people ask what my heat sheilds look like so here's mine. Nothing fancy and it needs paint.

Just got my BHAF installed with the stock tube and a black outerwear. Holy hell, my turbo is screaming. Atleast my truck sounds fast now, hahaha. Couldn't use the filter minder due to a crack at the bottom. Guess I'll just leave it out for now and maybe pick a new one up later. So far very happy with it.Question though, the bolts sticking up through the fender for the stock air box, did most just leave those in place? I left them just in case I ever switch back and didnt really even look to see if they came out.

I had the impression (obiviously erroneous) that mice didn't like diesel intakes. WRONG!! I've been holding off the BHAF install, waiting until the AC & heater repair gets done, so rather than the BHAF get bunged up by the shop (cracked the cover the last time... never told me... I did a super-glue repair). So the first shop didn't even start the job, so I brought the truck home & made an appointment elsewhere. For some reason I decided to pull the stock air box & at least start the BHAF install. Like it says in the title, the stock airbox was full of trashed sound-deadening insulation. I'd already removed & thrown away the under hood blanket as it was attracting mice. I don't know where they found enough but the box was more full than not. I bagged the stuff on top, the bottom layer was both stuck & wet with mouse piss (presumeably) to the bottom of the air box. The filter had picked up a lot of crap. I banged it off against the tire & then dragged out the air hose... I hope I didn't breath in too much dust. I think I magaged to get the filter back to useable condition. Just came in to scrub my hands a couple of times. I don't want to buy a new filter, only to disgard it in a couple of weeks... probably only drive to the next garage since it's not inspected. I guess I'll be screening the stock airbox before it goes back on. The BHAF install is looking challenging. I've got to pick up some chafe protection for the AC line... The elbow I bought seems to interfer with the battery & it's a bit smaller than the battery tray! I have to figure out the placement. I'm on-line to study the pictures...

I was a little disappointed this afternoon when I tried to install my new BHAF & it seemed like there wasn't enough space to close the hood.....I just got a Donaldson DuraLite off Vulcan Performance like a lot of folks are using.....Anybody have any idea how much space is usually left after installing the BHAF between the top of the filter & the hood.....It didn't really look like it fit to me & I definitely don't want any warping in the hood..... Also, does anybody have an idea if those bolts for the factory air box can be taken out from the bottom side.....I didn't really feel like removing my fender liner to find out if they could be taken out.....wasn't sure if anybody had their's removed.....I just wanted to be able to put them back later in case I went back to the factory box...Thanks... --- Update to the previous post... sorry, accidentally put this one in the wrong forum....

Figured I would give everyone a guide for a 12V that is perfectly powered and efficient and reliable. I am thinking this will get you to around 350-400HP with controllable EGT's. This will give you a truck that doesn't smoke a ton and is very efficient. The catch is that I am not sure if this will work for everyone. My truck has the stock lift pump and I am not sure it is flowing like it used to, though I got a new overflow and it holds at the right pressure so I am thinking it is fine, but it doesn't smoke like it used to. This guide is for someone to try it and see if it actually clears up the smoke, drops the EGT's, and has efficient power, as mine improved little by little as I did each mod. I just want to be sure I'm not delusional Step 1: Get a BHAF. This will improve flow and make the filter media last longer since there is more surface area to get dirty. Step 2: Get a 4" or bigger exhaust either straight piped or with a see-through muffler. Again, this improves flow. Step 3: Get a pyrometer and boost gauge if you haven't already, otherwise you are asking for trouble. Step 4: Set your valves at 0.008" intake and 0.015" exhaust. Only do this if you know exactly how to do it, as this is a tight tolerance and is the minimum setting on exhaust so if you screw it up a lot, you might end up having a valve open the whole time. Typically valves loosen, so if you get it set perfect, you shouldn't ever have a problem. The minimum settings are what they are because valves expand as they heat up so this accounts for expansion. This should make the HX35 spool up better than an HY (after we do AFC mods). Step 5: Get a boost elbow and set it to max out at 35psi (though you will probably max out there with the wastegate stock). This might be a problem as I use something that keeps the wastegate completely shut until 35psi, so I get to 35psi much earlier, but try the elbow anyways as it might work just as well. Step 6: Get a 400HP clutch (or better). If you don't, you might as well stop here. If you have an automatic, get it built up or something (I don't know anything about the auto's but I know the stock one's don't hold up). Step 7: Take the AFC arm out of the AFC housing, taking the AFC out of the picture (since the arm is out of the picture). This will leave the fueling up to your foot, which is nice. Step 8: Take the fuel plate out. Again this leaves fueling up to your foot but also provides max fueling. I would like to have someone with a 215HP 12V do this setup and see what happens. They should have only a haze or slight amount of smoke (after the turbo lights) and the EGT's should be much harder to get over 1200F. The turbo should light extremely quick as well. There are some other things I did that might have made a difference as well but I don't know if anyone would go that far: [*]Remove the Fan [*]Remove the Fan Shroud (this means doing something with the overflow and wiper fluid) I think taking the shroud off allowed the air to free flow through the intercooler more since it isn't running into the shroud on the sides, giving lower IAT temps under high boost conditions (when your getting near 1200F). Here is the part you must know and is key to success. With no AFC and no fuel plate, flooring it means max fuel at any point in time with or without turbo boost. This means you can get a ton of smoke down low before boost is built if you happen to step on it. You must get a feel for the pedal. The rack inside the pump only moves a fraction of what the pedal does. If you get in the truck, turn the key on, bump the starter (don't start it, bumping it engages the shutoff solenoid), and push down on the pedal easily until it gets hard to push (should only go down an inch, maybe less), that is actually full rack travel because the governor flyweights are not fighting you since they are not spinning. You can feel that in the pedal when you step on it, if you can just ride slightly behind that hard spot, it will move dynamically with engine RPM until it is to the floor (3000 RPM). The 215HP pump retards timing (none of the other pumps do) when the rack is all the way in because it has to jam more fuel in to get the higher HP rating. It is 4* retarded IIRC. To keep the engine efficient, you don't want it to be retarded, you want to keep the rack slightly behind that full rack spot so that it isn't retarding timing. If you put it to the floor and then do this method, you will see that the truck is faster when you ride slightly behind the rack. Fuel plates do this for you to an extent but not nearly as good as your foot is capable of doing. There is a reason 24V guys have many different levels. You can adjust your plate constantly, or you can take it out and adjust your foot constantly. After a few weeks (give or take), you will be a pro at it and be able to dynamically control fueling better than any chip can even dream of doing. It will become 2nd nature. You will know when it is going to smoke, when the turbo is going to light, everything and have 100% control over it, not riding some AFC or fuel plate that might not be the power you were wanting for that particular instant. This takes some tedious footwork but is really not that hard. I had one of the two springs fall off the throttle and I can press the pedal to the floor with my pinky. I had to readjust my footwork but after 2 days it was back to being 2nd nature and it's kinda nice not having to press hardly at all. If anyone wants to try this, do everything I said (cept the optional stuff) as they all add up to success, then let me know your results.

How much does it really help to use the heat shield when running bhaf? Does it really help keep intake temps. down any lower than not using one at all?

Gentlemen, I have perused the different threads and may have possibly missed the subject. What is a logical progression for increasing HP and / or Fuel Mileage on a 24V In my case I am looking for both, power (I haul hay from the field on a 30' gooseneck) and Mileage, just cause it's gettin' 'spensive! I'm working with a 2001, 2500, 4WD, QCSB, Auto, BHAF, Straight exh., 135K mi., front end has been done. My initial sense and conversations have led me to believe that three things lead in any project.1. Air intake = BHAF2. Exhaust = opened up and increased in size depending on the extent of the project3. A fuel additive = 2 cycle oil etc. 4.?:broke:5.?:broke:Etc.:broke: What should be next, logical step, and what could be potential points of reducing returns/cost for aftermarket adding to the drivetrain? I think there is probably enough HP stock to get my work done, but additional HP, with fuel economy gains would be great, if the costs will pay off.I'm not a cheap A**, but..... if it doesn't pay off, I have to consider whether it is worth the output. Business/Hobby ya know. / :hyper: I want gauges, but if a Quad/Adrin. would give me gauges and added MPG, AND HP, then it may be worth the additional expense. Lets eleminate driving habits and other human induced variables. What should be my next step? Ideas.....Thanks, Gary

I want to install the BHAF further onto the fender than typical. I like this heat slick heat shield. Furnace duct heat shield: http://www.directcon.net/drkayak/Ram/Heat%20Shield But further onto the fender. But then the OEM flexi intake tube will be too short & angled wrong. I found rubber eblows... but that would require 4 more clamps & 2 metal or plastic tubing pieces. I was wanting a clean install. Rubber elbows in all sizes: http://store.airflo.com/nextpage.html Nice Custom Metal extension elbow: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/143145-bhaf-7.html but is not something I could do myself. http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-9798-Degree-Polished-Aluminum/dp/B001OMK4R2/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2AHHC3DE5ITYS&colid=1QKBZCL48WMAO Well, I guess I can manage a couple of hose clamps. LOL! A Spectre part. A mandrel bent piece of tubing would be delightful, if it would fit... but I don't see any in my price range. Or does one just hit the local plumbing supply? I have found additional sources. Summit Racing offers some Spectre intake parts... I found even more Spectre items on Amazon. This is going to take some careful test fitting, measuring & by guess & by gosh, but I'm closer. Your thoughts are appreciated. Russ

I take it a BHAF is out so what is everybody running on there 04's

I wanting to make my own air intake since the aftermarket ones are SO expensive. So anyone made there own and would like to share your idea lets see it. I am Looking for ideas.

*also posted on cumminsforum.comHow is the BHAF affected by driving in heavy rain? Is there a possibility that it would get wet from the water going up through the wheel well past the shock tower? If it gets wet will it ruin the paper element? I don't run a heat shield, but do they help keep the water out of the filter? Thanks!