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Hi Guys, I have been learning alot about my cummins from reading these forums. This is my first post, so please forgive me if this topic has been covered. Background: I finally got my quad adrenaline board replaced and I had no boost pressure. I replaced the map harness because there were a couple butt splices in the wiring and presumed that was the problem. Once I changed the harness I have a boost reading on my control pod of 48-51 pretty consistently no matter TP, speed, ect. I did some reading on here and found out some map sensors "Fail High", which seems to correspond to my issue and also gives good reason to my poor mileage 8-10 mpg. Occasionally when I start the truck up the boost starts at 0 and will go up to 20 or 21 depending on throttle, ect. But usually goes right back to 48-51 upon restart. I ordered a map sensor from Advanced Auto for $135 with a 25% online coupon and when I received it the connector was more oval shaped than the one on the truck, so I returned it. I called the dealer today and found out that they sell a Boost Sensor and a wiring harness for $370 something. The parts guy didn't know much so that is why I am here. Assumptions: 1. I am currently assuming the Map sensor is still bad even though it occationally works. 2. I am assuuming cummins has updated this sensor with a new connector style and requires the new harness to connect. Questions: 1. Is it normal for a map sensor to sometimes work and sometimes not being either/or on start condition? Or is this an electrical issue? 2. Are my assumptions correct about the new connector type and require a harness? 3. Recommendations for sensor and harness? Or old style sensor connector? Below is picture of Old sensor on the left and new sensor on the right. Thanks in advance!

Hi all. I'm wondering if I'm headed in the right direction here:Yesterday while out and around I noticed the Edge comp was reading 0 boost continuously. At one point while accelerating it started jumping between 0 and 15 psi, which I could definitely feel, pulled hard while it read boost, then felt and sounded like it was lugging when 0 boost. Took it home and checked for way obvious stuff, unpluggled connectors, damaged wires, found nothing. Decided to take it to Autozone to have the codes pulled and on the way there the Edge started squawking an alarm that the boost was running at 40 psi, and did it when I let off the throttle to slow down.The only code that came out of it was P0236 "Turbocharger boost sensor circuit, range or performance problem; MAP sensor voltage too high for too long." Well gee, no kidding. :rolleyes2:So I'm inferring that the comp is reading boost from the MAP sensor? Is cleaning the sensor as described on this site likely to help, or just fork out the hundred bucks for a new one? Any other suspects I should be looking at?Thanks in advance

So I posted a thread a little while ago about my turbo and it throwing a p0234 code. Got no respose. So, I decided I would try and dig a little deeper into the issue. I thought about making a leak tester to see if I can figure out what was going.So I went to the local stores and parted together a tester. Got a 4" rubber coupling and a 4" adapter with a cap. Put an air regulator on the end and called it good.So I put the tester on the inlet of the turbo and put the pressure to it. If I apply more than 10psi, the tester wants to slide off the turbo from the pressure. The rubber will also balloon out. I was getting a little nervous about a catastrophic failure but I managed to get it up to 23psi I think the wife said.I'm not sure if its normal or not, but I think my boost elbow is an edge boost elbow for one, but then also I dunno if the little hole on the side of it is normal or not? I may of not had the engine turned at the right point to keep the pressure up either but I was loosing pressure.My intent with the tester was to actually see if I could get the wastegate to actuate to see if the wastegate was indeed stuck. I dunno at what psi its supposed to open?So instead, I stuck the air hose up to the wastegate line with an air nozzle and applied air that way. It made the arm move and the wastegate actuated...So, I'm wondering now, if I have the boost elbow on is if thats whats causing me to throw the code? I took the truck out after and floored it. The highest the boost got was 27psi. With my injectors and boost elbow, should'nt I be making moe boost then that? Is 27psi also enough to throw the p0234 code as well?

Hey Guys, I am fresh to the site - have dug around on some of the tests that can be provided, did those and after running thru that and replacing the MAP sensor we are still at a loss so I am reaching out to you guys for some help if you would....The truck is a 2001 Dually, 3500 4x4, has the HO engine in it with about 83,000 miles on it. Fuel system has a Raptor 150 Pump with a Draw straw and bigger lines to support more fuel not only to the filter, but past it and direct to the VP. I run a pressure gauge that reads pressure just previous to the VP to monitor the pressure right before the VP to keep an eye on lift pump pressure and filter condition. It's been holding steady at 19 pounds while truckin' down the road. When fueling, I use Wallyworld 2 Stroke TC3w Oil to keep the VP lubed at 1oz to one gallon of diesel.Here is what has been happening:Acts like dead pedal once in a bit, won't get out of it's own way sometimes and even floored truck will not accelerate hardly at all - will exhibit lean smoke at the top of the rpms while trying to get 'er moving to the next gear. Then after some time, it just jumps back into life and away we go - sometimes it runs like there is no issue and sometimes it takes a while - this is both warmed up and cold. Turbo response during this "episode" is basically gone. Even when things are operational, the EGT's seem higher than they used to be. One second it's running like its new, the next, it won't get out of it's own way. Sometimes when I start out in second (it's a 6 spd manual) it wants to almost stall and that is when I know that things are not starting out so well... The problem is random like I said - you can have it floored and there is no response and then 4 seconds later - hey!, it's alive!We've reset the apps and on the OBII Snap On test, it's reading %'s as far as foot pedal movement-We are attempting on getting to the root of the problem and I have two quick questions before I give you the War and Peace size story that backs the history on this-1 - On a VP44 Inj Pump, can it "come and go" timimg wise to advance great one round and then not the next?I guess in other words, can the non-response be caused by a pump that is failing advance-wise and then the pump get back into time and it'll run fine? 2- On the MAP Voltage Low test, the MAPS did not seem up to par voltage wise on the OBDII Snap On test so I replaced it - here is the question:The Maps that I took off the engine is twice the size of the one that was sold to me, inlet hole is for pressure reading is half the size as well - It was however the harder one to find and about $166 my cost - it does have the right plug in for the harness three-pin oval, not the round plug in - part number on the new one is EC1854 made by BWD - the stock Mopar one has a 10702 on one side (i think that is a 2 on the end) and a 3417030 on the other. That seem right that they are different sizes? I can't find anywhere that has the bigger one....? it took a socket that was an 1" 1/4 to get it out and the new one took an 1" 1/16....Doesn't seem right?That is a place to start as I don't want this to be 7 pages long to start with as I know that you have things to do other than read a novel from me...Thanks for the help - I'll have more as we go and please feel free to ask questions as I am sure more info is helpful.Thanks all, have a great Sunday!!

I have been running without a boost elbow for some time and I installed the adjustable elbow today and there is no increase in boost pressure, 27-28 lbs and I am still getting over boost code. Also, if I get into it hard, as soon as I let off there is a poping noise, like a backfire in the area of the turbo. The poping noise just started last week and has only done it about 5 times and is intermittant.When I installed the boost elbow, I turned the screw down all the way, then back it out about 1-2 turns, still get the code and same boost numbers. Then cranked the screw down all the way, same results.Any ideas?

Hello All I have a Scangauge. I am wondering how accurate the boost reading is compared to a mechanical gauge. .....edit.... Ok, I just had another thought......So let me backtrack a bit.....I just bought a PowerPuck and an Quadzilla boost fooler (it plugs inline with the MAP sensor). I also just made a adjustable boost elbow and I do NOT have a mechanical boost gauge. At this point I have been watching my boost pressure via my ScanGauge. As my truck is unmodified the need to watch it at this point is for curiosity and MPG reasons only. I am planning on installing the newer goods today/this weekend, but I am now wondering if the Quadzilla boost fooler will alter my ScanGauge boost reading? Thoughts?? Thanks. Ken --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?oqlhf0

I've been reading around on the forum (great way to learn), and notice several posts talking about boost in the 30+ psi range. I pull a 10K fifth wheel and I've never seen boost above low 20's. Something wrong? My EGT's are 1100° in only the toughest of pulling - rare. 800° - 900° general driving with fiver in tow. MPG is good too.ThxEric

I'll start this out by saying that the other week I installed gauges (Boost and EGT). I was told that for my truck with whats done to it I should be able to make 35psi boost easy but the most I've seen is 28psi and that was accelerating up a hill giving it all its got in 4th gear. So I decided to check for boost leaks. Tonight I did a pressure check at 6psi and all the intercooler boots and everything seemed fine. Then I noticed the oil dipstick was hissing a little so I take it out and the air is somehow leaking in and coming out there. Would this happen because I did the pressure check wrong? Are you supposed to block off the one end of the intake when you check it? Is this happening simply because intake valves are open? Or could there be some other cause?I may sound a bit stupid... but hey, there's no stupid question right? A guys gotta learn sometime.All your advice will be much appreciated!Also one more thing if anyone knows. On the gauge there is an orange wire for the dimmer, but the instructions don't tell you what to hook it up to for it to work. So if anyone could tell me where to hook it up to that would be great.Kinda a long post but hopefully everything is clear for you guys, if not just ask what you want to know.

Before I mucked around under the hood, I used to get 33psi with my 12v reliably and repeatably. Never spiked, never buried the gauge as long as the boost line was hooked up to the wastegate control. I've now swapped in a P-pumped 24v and I'm overboosting at and near WOT when under load. I only have a 35psi gauge and it'll pin it - probably getting to 45+psi. Stock gasket and retorqued stock bolts to 130# with roughly 17˚ effective timing; I can't boost that far safely. I'd like to be back to 30ish psi peak boost. I'm still giving manifold pressure to the wastegate, and I actually just stepped up line size from 1/4" to 5/16" but it didn't make a difference. What I changed: - nothing at all on the turbo side. same turbo, same wastegate actuator, nothing dropped nothing adjusted nothing intentionally tweaked... - the boost line is now about 2' longer since it needs to run around the one piece valve cover instead of between #3 and #4. - manifold pressure source and routing changed. before: 1/8" NPT port in head to boost gauge 1/8" NPT port in head to tee, unrestricted to 1/4" line to wastegate; restricted port to AFC now: 1/4" NPT port in intake horn to 5/16" line to wastegate 1/8" NPT port in intake horn to tee, unrestricted to boost gauge and to AFC One other difference is I have lost smoke - it used to smoke badly off the line until 1300-1400, and now it does not at all, but timing is at least a little different now.... I didn't open the AFC during the swap so star wheel, idle screw and fuel plate (#100 home ground) settings should all match. Only difference should be 1-2˚_timing. It now acts exactly as it should with a well tuned AFC: no smoke off the line, and it doesn't start to overfuel until about 2500rpm and WOT. I think I actually need to move my fuel plate back a little as it'll get hot up there, but I need to get the overboost taken care of before I can tune the top end. How can I restrict my boost?

quick question ..does any one know at what point the stock turbo hx 35 i think needs the waste gate hooked back up if at ? i havent made any huge performance upgrades yet ..just a few minor ones but i know at some point i will need to think about getting the waste gate working again to keep the turbo safe

What I have done: 1. #6 Fuel Plate - Full Forward 2. Boost Elbow 3. 4" Full Exhaust 4. TC Lockup Switch 5. BHAF http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/dodge/1002dp_1994_to_1998_dodge_ram_power_recipes/1500_budget.html What I'm thinking of doing (in order): 1. Timing 2. 3K RPM Springs 3. Injectors I'm expecting my trans to blow up, so that will give me an excuse to go to a manual or build the 47rh. What I don't want to do is blow the head gasket, so I don't want so much power that requires me mod the head or valve springs.