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Showing results for tags 'crankcase vent'.
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Crankcase Vent Modification for 24V Dodge Cummins Trucks People been asking for me to redo this article so here it is. Supplies you'll need... 1 stick of 1/2" PVC pipe (minimum of 57" long) 3 - 1/2" PVC elbows slip to slip 1 - 1/2" PVC elbow slip to NPT (male or female) 1 - 1/2" PVC straight connector slip to NPT (male or female) 3" piece of 3/4" heater hose 2 hose clamps 1 Small can of PVC glue Hacksaw Sharpie black marker Tape measure Can of spray paint 1 Zip tie 6" long Cut measurements 3" Heater hose 4 1/2" front down pipe 2 1/4" front cross pipe 24" long pipe 5" rear cross pipe 20 1/2" rear down pipe NOTE: These measure are my final cut measurements. I suggest cutting a tad long and adjusting as you see fit for your truck. So at this point you should have all your materials to assemble. You should assembly your cut pipe and fittings dry without glue and test fit everything. While test fitting be sure to remove all plastic cuttings from the ends of the pipes. Also when test fitting be sure to bottom out all pipes into the fittings. In the supply list I list PVC elbow and a straight connector (male or female) this is totally up to you. You can do either way as long as you have a male and female connection in the end. Now during my test fitting I was very careful to get the front section of pie back far enough so its not in contact with the upper radiator hose. On the rear section you have to be careful of the angle of your down pipe. I've got mine resting on the very tip of the bellhousing. Now that you fairly happy with your fit. Take a Sharpie marker and mark all the elbow positions with a fine line from the elbow to the pipe to note position. This way you can glue the pieces back together in the proper angles. When gluing all the pieces together be sure once again to bottom out all your pipes into the fittings. At this point you will want to stuff your 3" piece of heater hose on the front pipe. Need at least 1" of heater hose on the PVC pipe for clamping. Now take a rag and a bit of paint thinner or lacquer thinner and wipe all the oil and grime off the pipe assembly. Now take a can of spray paint of the wanted color. It's best to get a spray paint that is chemically correct for plastics. So you should have a completed Crankcase vent pipe for your truck now. All you have to do is lay it back up on top. Make sure you have your 2 hose clamps on before installing. Slip the heater hose over the crankcase vent nipple. Using the one zip tie tie the rear cross pipe to the top of the hoist ring. Carefully slide the down pipe down and screw on to the rear fitting. Opps. the Paint was completely cured.
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Mopar1973Man's Crankcase Vent Stock breather issues... The main issue with OEM crankcase vent is it is nothing more than a piece of hose mounted to the front of the gear case. The piece of hose elbows over the case and points down towards the ground. There are two versions of this crankcase. One involves a drip bottle mounted on the end of the hose and the other does not. A Technical Service Bulleting (TSB) was released on this issue as well: TSB (09-002-02 Crankcase Breather Overflow). This bulletin warns of a potential of extreme loss of oil from a truck descending at too steep of a slope while off-roading. During this loss of oil, oil also has been known to scatter all over the engine and radiator. This scattering of oil causes the collection of dust and dirt in the face of the radiator. This collection causes overheating issues for your truck. Even in with normal use, the cases that include a breather bottle can emit enough oil vapors make the radiator gunky with the collection dirt and dust. Another TSB on this issue is TSB 09-02-00 (A Heavy Oil Or Fuel-Like Odor Coming From the Diesel Engine Compartment). This bulletin was written about the foul heavy oil smell after an oil change. Although it is normal for some brand of oils to have this heavy smell anyway My own personal fix… Here is a short video of normal blow by...
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- radiator overheating
- heavy oil smell
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Problems with the stock breather... This is a home-brew fix to a problem on the 2nd Gen Cummins engines. The problem is the OEM crankcase vent is nothing more than a piece of hose mounted to the front of the gear case that elbows over and points down towards the ground. There is two versions of this. One is with a drip bottle mounted on the end of the hose and the other is without the bottle. In any case there is a TSB (09-002-02 Crankcase Breather Overflow) warning on extreme loss of oil from descending to steep of a slope while off-roading. This is true but it will also scatter oil all over the engine and radiator. This cause a second problem of overheat from dust and dirt collecting in the face of the radiator. Even in normal use cases the breather bottle has been known to emit enough oil vapors to make the radiator gunky with dirt and dust. Another problem that a TSB 09-02-00 (A Heavy Oil Or Fuel-Like Odor Coming From the Diesel Engine Compartment) was written for was the foul heavy oil smell after a oil change. This is normal for some brand of oils like Rotella. Now that I listed all the problems with the breather bottle now let look at what I've fixed... What I've Fixed! First off I've never lost any oil off-roading with my design. Why? Simple. I look at a simple principal. If the front of the truck is going down hill the vent pipe end should be higher than the oil level at any angle. So how did I do that? Simple run the pipe up over the top of the engine and down over the back side of the engine. So now no matter how steep you run the nose down hill the end of the vent pipe will be higher. Since the end of the pipe is down under the truck by the transmission there is no problem with cooling or radiator plugging any longer. Also you will no longer get the heavy oil smell in the cab since the pipe is under the truck. You might smell it a little as you open the door but rare. Some people have use rubber hose to do this too. Well rubber heater hose will eventually break down and collapse. This is a problem! It will cause a build up of crankcase pressure and start oil leakage around seals. Another problem with other home brew systems... If you make the vent pipe to long you might start freezing the water vapor in the hose/pipe before it exits the pipe. Once again this causes problems with crankcase pressure. My system has no where for the oil/water to pool to freeze or plug the pipe. I've tested down to -20°F and never had a freeze up yet. Contact me for information on ordering a crankcase vent kit. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/crankcase-vent/crankcase-vent.htm
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I am seeing and experiencing the problems all of you are talking about with the current stock crankcase vent and bottle. I am thinking about trying what I call a crankcase vapor condenser. I do not think it would work in those situations where the down hill angle would cause the oil to flow out. Following is a posting and update that I have put on a different diesel forum. OK! OK! Don't laugh me off the site! And I have the empirical proof! Unfortunately, I am not able to find the link any more, if I do I will post it. Basically, you make a condensation jar and put it inline of your PCV vacuum. For us GM dieselers this would be inline with our CDR. I have had one on my daughter's 92 Ford Ranger (my previous truck) for a few months. We have not seen ANY increase in mileage, and did not expect any even though they mentioned you would. And the first time I checked the jar there was about 1/4 cup of very dark oil/fuel. It did NOT smell at all of gas! So, I ignored it. The oil was changed and the other day I happened to check her oil. It was as clean as FRESH oil! And it had been about 1200 miles! Never, never seen that before on that vehicle! I am impressed and will continue to monitor it and report. By mistake (my daughter's mistake) HER '92 Ranger went 7000 miles on the last oil change and the oil on the dip stick was still only a dark honey color. There was about 1 cup of really black oil? in the sludge jar with some moisture and the beginning of sludge in the bottom. I am convinced - at least on a older gaser. Never, never seen that before on this truck. And currently, it is running smoother and the spark plugs are staying cleaner. After seeing what it did for the Ranger and seeing how black and how quick my truck's oil goes black, today I put the sludge jar on the Silverado. Again not expecting much. Some black oilly stuff in the tube and hose connections. Started up and checked for vacuum leaks - none - of course, very low vaccum at idle. Now, I start up and drive to work. After 3 miles, the engine quiets down like I have never heard before - down the road and a idle! At idle the engine is quiet and smooth! It is scarry! Something BAD must be about to happen! When I got to work, about 12 miles, I left the engine idling and popped the hood to check for something leaking or broke but, everything was fine - just a smoother, quieter running engine! It will be interesting to see how the truck starts up and runs tonight after work. It has started well in the 6 weeks I have had the truck. The quieter operation of the 98 6.5TD turned out to be old diesel vs fresh diesel. The sludge jar on the 92 Ranger gasser is still there and still working very well, keeping the oil basically clean between 5000 mile changes. Collecting about 1/4 cup dark black something and some brown sludge in the bottom - oil and water obviously. I never got to fully check out the operation of the sludge jar on the 98 because I sold it to my brother who traded it for a newer Duramax!? I have subsequently put one on the 93 Silverado 6.2L diesel (no turbo) I have and can report that after about 2000 miles there was about 2 tablespoons of black syrup in the bottom. The oil is still rather black though. Probably because the crankcase, oil cooler and engine have not been fully flushed and I probably have some blow-by in this 93 with 184K miles - still runs very good though! I am going to try one of these on the 02 2500 CTD that I now own. But it may take me a while. If anyone is game I will send pictures and help with description. I will have to plumb into the intake pre turbo and the BBs (or steel gauze) should condense out the majority (all?) of the vapors that would coat or gum up the turbo like it does on the older 6.5 TDs on the Chevrolets. I have pictures but do not know how to attach them here. I do not know if the link below will work but there are images in the 4th entry down. http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=24253&highlight=sludge
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so at first i thought it was a leak! i have never had blow-by this bad EVER! so while i was snapping pics for the fuel/water sep i noticed this vac line...take a look at the pics...http://forum.mopar1973man.com/album.php?albumid=34 opinions please bryan
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Before I changed out the motor and tranny there were lots of spots in my driveway so it didn't bother me. But now there are no drips but I still get that burned oily smell once in a while. Being a rooky, is there something I don't know about? I can't see any obvious cause of this odor.
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OK, so I feel dumb even asking this question.. but I'm looking at the front of my engine and don't see a hose, bottle, vent or anything like it. What I think I'm looking at is just a smooth timing cover. D oes that make sense? I crawled under the truck and see what looks to be the vent/blow-by hose but it runs back up into the side of the block above the stock LP location. So, am I really dumb enough to be missing it somehow??
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Just done the crankcase vent mod w/some mods of my own. I liked the pictures of the mod but I did it a little different than what I saw. The pics. I saw showed the mod without the radiator hose which will rub against the pvc pipe when it is connected. Over time you will get a problem. If you take the 3/4" curved hose that is already on the vent to the canister you will see you can cut it to be a perfect fit to go around the radiator hose by cutting the curved part off. Put a short piece of 1/2" pvc into the hose, CLAMP IT and Attatch the 90% pvc then cut and fit the pvc to meet your needs. At the end , instead of using more pvc AS A DOWN PIPE I simply put a 3 ft. piece of 3/4" heater hose and ran it out the bottom with A ZIP TIE. Simple, works perfect, looks good. Painted it black.
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My 2002 HO cummins had a catch can off the oil breather on the front of the engine. I was sick of forgetting to empty it, then dripping all over my driveway, or spilling when changing. I just extending the hose down past my axle. It coated everything down stream of it with crud, but it seemed to work (only dripped a little). Last summer I nearly overheated when towing and I'm blaming the problem on oil vapor getting sucked into the radiator (I read this happens with the stock setup). I've looked at the different options available to get rid of the crankcase vapor and I want to try an evacuation system. I like this because the vapors stay vapors and exit with the exhaust, no drip, no catch can to drain. Also, the vacuum on the crankcase increases with load/rpm. Crankcase Evacuation.docx -
After I rebuilt my engine I lost the puke bottle and just left it off. I have what appears to be several little oil leaks under the engine and front axle and differential is wet also. Can the hose coming out of the crankcase be dripping enough that it blows everywhere and causes several leaks or could I have several leaks? Everything looks dry along the valve cover, head, and block.
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What's your guy's opinon on a evac/system that plums/plugs into the exhaust?Just thinking,,, (like the gassers use) they dont seem to pull hard enought to suck oil out, plus they have a check valve on them. Just thinking out of the box.........
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Ok heres the latest on one of our trucks...Now theres , what a peers to be, white smoke coming out of the drain tube that connects to the puke box in the front of the motor. What gives, and what does this mean??? -
Just wondering how many people have done Mikes crankcase vent. I knew about the vent problem and his inexpensive repair but put it off until my radiator looked like this; So I cleaned my radiator, intercooler, engine...and added Mikes upgrade and haven't had a problem since. Also, my truck doesn't smell like oil after an oil change like it used to.
