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Denso Alternator Modification I'm doing this write-up in case anyone runs into the problem I did and they don't want to buy a new or find another style alternator. After I bought the diode replacement and tried to install it I realized that it was slightly different from mine. Note: The new lead is smaller in diameter and shorter than the old lead. Here is a link on how to take the alternator apart written by IBMobile. If yours is like mine and the lead comes off the side the B+ post nut sizes will be a 13mm but the steps will be the same. Tools required for modification: * Small cut off wheel or Air saw * Ball-peen hammer * Small files * Drill and bits Hardwear required: Two M6-1.0 nuts The original diode pack has the lead coming off the side sticking through 2 tabs. The new diode lead sits on top of one of the stud. Take a small cut off wheel or air saw and cut roughly where the sharpie mark is. I cut a little too much off but this is what it should look like. Drill 2 holes left of the letter B for the lead to stick through. Then use a small file to make the hole bigger. Once you can see the small U shape around the bottom of the Lead where the insulator sits, take a ball-peen hammer and bend down the metal around it so it sits flat. Youll need to trim the hole big enough that the back of the original lead insulator fits through it. Now you need to take the old lead insulator and cut out a piece for the cable to sit lower on the lead. You'll need to do this on the same side but opposite end of the flat part of the U shape. You'll also need to take a 7/16 drill bit and drill a little of the center out so the first nut you screw on can sit further down and the cable lead can sit flush on top of the nut and plastic insulator. Put everything back together and install the Alternator. Put the insulator on and tighten the first nut down. This will hold the insulator in place. Next, install the cable lead and next nut. The cable should stick out of the notch you cut. Since the diode lead is shorter there won't be much of the threads sticking out after the 2nd nut is put on. View full Cummins article

Ok guys my truck has me stumped! Ill start from the begining and tell everything... My truck was doing the TC Lock and unlock at 45 MPH, after reading some stuff online I tried wiggling the black and white wire going from the battery to the alternator, stopped that problem I would just have to wiggle it every 3 weeks or so. The WTSL wasnt coming on either. So one morning(Months Later)I was leaving and my truck would idle fine but when I put it in gear I would have to push the throttle down like half way to get it to go, the truck felt like it had no power, it went to 3000 RPMs before it would shift, and when it did shift it felt like it was going to die. I pulled over like 1/4 mile from the house and turned the truck off got out wiggled that black and white wire from the battery to the alternator it ran fine. Went back home let the truck sit and about 6-7 hours later started it up, took off, and it did it again. My check engine light came on, I put some de electrical grease in the plug on that wire and it stopped, it ran fine, CEL went off for about a week, and my WTSL came on for the first time in a year. I noticed that it does it almost every morning now so what I have to do is start the truck let it idle until it warms up turn it off get out unplug and plug in the plug in the wire going from the alternator to battery and it will run fine. Also the truck will not start until the WTSL comes on which is about 10 sec after I turn the key. Now that it is doing it again the CEL came back on so I took it to pep boys to have the codes read. The technician said that I have either a fuse blown or a short somewhere because the code reader wont pull the codes off the truck. Im stumped I dont have any idea what to do next!