Search the Community

Hey all, back again with another problem 🙃 so I have a weird knocking that sounds like it’s coming from the bell housing directly under where the clutch is.. it’s an 01 6 speed with (supposedly) a South Bend Dual Disk. Noise stays even with clutch pedal pressed in, I just don’t hear the discs rattling any more. The noise is proportional with engine rpm. I’m praying to god it’s the flywheel bolts or maybe it’s the original 300k flywheel and the P/O just slapped a new clutch in, which is definitely possible due to other things done on the truck... maybe dual mass flywheel? Clutch spring hitting? Clutch component broken and is stuck in there? I’m almost certain it isn’t injector knock since it did that noise before I swapped with my buddy and he had pretty damn fresh injectors too. YouTube video attached as well. https://youtu.be/WjidpvDkmus you can hear the sound more towards the end when the phone is right under where I’m assuming the clutch assembly is. Hoping the clutch is just on its way out or was installed improperly (not good but better than a rod or bearing)

hello ... for several days it gives me the p0222 code but it did not cause a fault that I felt driving, I did not use the truck for a week and yesterday when I started it it made like 8 injection cuts in a row and very strong and then the engine was turned off I just started it several times but he did the same and the throttle does not respond and the only code he gives is the P0222, I am very worried I don't know what it will be. thanks for your help. Orlando

I just found my first truck, not the actual one, but close enough. 1974 D100 stepside, 318 auto.

Long story short I had to replace the engine in my otherwise reliable old truck at 298000. That part with the exception of busted knuckles and not having done it before, went off mostly okay though I’m still not completely finished, due to the challenges described below. While wrestling the new engine into place at the bell housing and torque converter I inadvertently squashed a white vacuum line. I managed to get it removed from between the two sections. Now when trying to trace it back I find there is a second (unsquished) white line. What are these and where are they supposed to be terminated? Also, when the exhaust came out I now have a black rubber hose with a small metal curved pipe and bracket. (See pic). Where did THIS one appear from? Any and all assistance is appreciated and I thank you in advance. Please don’t cut my throat, I’ve never tackled anything like this before.

Hey Guys, <<For a List of vendors who have supplied junk parts or didn't stand behind their products....see the bottom of the article.>> pepsi71ocean here. I decided to finally write this article up after another round of people with issues with reman companies. So a while ago back in 10/2015 I shorted out my PCM with a botched rebuild on my Alternator(I forgot to add a sealing washer!) As a result, after replacing the defective alternator I still had no charging on the alternator. I went hunting for a re builder for my PCM. I was quoted almost $800 for a new blank from Dodge, and that didn't include programming. A friend of mine on Facebook who runs a Diesel Rebuild shop in the Midwest forwarded me this company here. <<List of Verified and Reliable PCM/ECM Re-builders>> I have put the company in table format, but If you have another one you used then message me and I'll add the Info. Verified Re-builder Website Telephone Number of Rebuilds Type 1. Autocomputer Specialist https://autocomputerspecialist.com/ 1-954-513-8359 64 PCM-ECM-TIPM 2. Diesel System Services http://www.blacksmokin.com/ 1-619-749-6226 5 ECM 3. Reman Auto Electronics https://www.remanautoelectronics.com/ 1-855-466-6938 2 ECM 4. Crites Car Computers <pending clarification> https://www.critescore.com/ 1-800-900-3267 1 ECM 5. ECM Repair 1 http://www.ecmrepairs.com/ 1-800-737-0915 7 ECM-ABS? 6. SIA Electric http://siaelec.com/ 1-800-737-0915 1 ECM 1. AUTOCOMPUTER SPECIALIST: I was referred to them by my friend Stanley. In the end I believe the price for the rebuild was about $350. I called them, they emailed me the form to fill out with a brief description of the problem, then shipped my PCM to them. And when they opened it up they also sent me a photo and let me know what the issue was. Now they also gave me the list of possible wire issues, but I also knew that I was almost sure it was a botched alternator rebuild that I did on the one NAPA alternator. Here is the photo they sent me below. Total Turn time for me was 5 days and that included the shipping to and from their place in Florida. PCM Rebuil by ACS at 118,506 Miles 11/2015 ACS Repaird a TIPM for a Chrysler200 1/2019 ECM Rebuilt by ACS at 165,406 Miles 10/2021 Current odometer is 201,505 5/10/2023 I also sent out my ECM o be rebuilt in Ocober of 2021, wih 140,000 miles on the truck. I had an another alternator start to go south. To date I know of 4 other Dodge Cummins trucks running rebuild PCM's Although Stanley said he has sent out a dozen PCM/ECM's to them over time for customers from his shop, and that includes some medium duty stuff. UPDATE: 2. Diesel System Services: Referred by mopar1973member Bobalos. Main contact at DSS is Steven Bruce.. He used to work for Cummins. Member has verified ECM still runs. 3. Reman Auto Electronics: Referred by mopar1973member GSP7. Reman Auto Electronics is a subsidiary of Flight Systems Electronics Group. Recommendation by Cummins Fleet Mechanic as well. 4. Crites Car Computers: Referred by mopar1973member Ho$$. Currently I am seeing confirmation that it is not Crites Core Company, Inc. 5. ECM Repair 1: Referred by CumminsForum member indy1k, and 6. SIA Electric: Referred by CumminsForum member chansey NOTES: If you do send me a company, name the number of miles/years you have on your rebuild, and if they were easy to work with or not. If you could a short summary would be good as well. ---------------------------------------------------------------- <<From here below is a list of vendors who have failed to supply good product, or didn't stand behind their product>> Below here is a list of Vendors/re builders that have supplied problematic rebuilds, and have not made attempts to rectify the problem. I didn't have to do much searching online to discover lists of complaints. Re-builder Website Telephone #Complaints FlagShipOne(NY) http://www.fs1inc.com/ 1-516-766-2223 More then one 24 All Computer Resources(FL) https://store.allcomputerresources.com/ 1-866-699-5230 2-1(one guy bought here who didn't have issue) Automotive Scientific Inc. https://www.autoecu.com/ 1-866-983-6688 4 Carcomputer Exchange https://carcomputerexchange.com/ 1-888-875-2958 1 A-1 Cardone http://www.cardone.com/ 1-888-280-8324 12 Auto Computer Exchange https://www.autocomputerexchange.com https://www.autocomputerexchange.net 1-800-680-4275 8 NOTES: All Computer Resources(FL): One member has bought from here with no issue as of 12/16/2018. However they still have one negative review. I hope this list will help people avoid a potential nightmare in dealing with computer issues in the future. UPDATED 05/10/2023 by John Armstrong Jr. Revision 2.2 View full Cummins article

I ordered towing mirrors off amazon last year. Got them in and installed them, I hook them up and tested both sides before putting everything back together. Both worked, Installed them, Passenger side still worked, but driver side didn't. Emailed company they sent out another set, error happened and I got 1 correct and 1 for a 2010+ sized mirror. Emailed them they sent out another set and they were correct. months go by and I didn't have the need to change the mirrors out as i already had them adjusted to where i needed them(folded down) I did some trading with a friend and traded him the mirrors that were messed up for a leveling kit and some cash. We took old ones off and up new ones on my truck. Tested before installing them everything worked great. Start the truck and turn it around in the driveway. My driver side works fine now but my passenger side on goes left and up folded in or flopped out. Im not a wiring guy and I need help figuring out why it has done this.

Is it possible to have an oil cap with a vent for the valve cover? I am fixing to install a 12v tappet cover and want to vent the valve cover aswell, so ill have 3 vents. Is it possible to vent the valve cover without drilling and welding bungs and doing what i said and making or buying an oil cap with baffles and filter on it?

Hello again, I have had this starting problem for about 6 or 8 months now at least and I'm getting tired of it. I cant find any write ups online about it. Its a 1998 dodge cummins obviously. I don't really know how to describe it cause it is so random and all the lights work and try fires up fine once it finally cranks over. I'de guess about every 40th turn of the key is a dud and then the next 20 or 30 cranks after that are dude until the truck decides it wants to crank over and start. What could this be? I have checked every fuse in the truck that a test light can check. I have eyeballed all the square fuses under the hood. Everything seems okay. It has a new ignition in it, my father replaced it before i got the truck cause he thought that was the cause of the truck dieing(was vp44/ecm) so got new vp44 and rebuilt ecm. I believe it was the ignition anyways. I have the part and the box for the new one in it somewhere. Batteries are new and cable end are new with di electric grease slathered generously. It has a oreileys starter on it. It was put on truck when I replaced clutch as my original one was from autozone. But the shop I was at had an oreileys one in the box so we put it on.

Looking at purchasing a 2012 Dodge 1500 Big Horn model with Hemi with 65RFE transmission ~$18.5k and 50k miles. Looks in good condition. If I get serious with it , I'll take to mechanic to check. Does any one have any known issue to look at or reservation on this year/model? Giving my 1999 Dodge 24v Cummings to family member Is there a better truck for about the same cost to look at before getting serious on this truck? Thanks for your feedback ahead of time!

i want to know what is the dana number of my 2005 dodge ram 3500 2wd beacause i hear the sound on the differential and the mechanics say is the bearings beacause the ring gear and pinion looks good thanks in advance

Good afternoon everybody i have 2 engines the first is a 1998.5 cummins 24vl w/o trasmission with harness the secound is a 2000 cummins 24vl with trasnsmission w/o harness both are on the ground im plannig to put in my 2003 ford f250 my question is 1: i can start the engine (2000) with the harness of the 1998.5? 2: i need the fuse box to start the engine? 3: the sensors need the connection to start the engine? Remember......i dont have a fuse box when i buy the guy say he need so i cant get i have some colors from the harness...in a video on youtube they say they can start the engine just with 6 cables from the harness to the possitive on the battery green black orange black brown white red black red white red green and this is the video Thanks in advance im from panama by the way so its really hard to find somebody who can deal with my engines

As my signature says I have a 1998.5 24v Cummins. I want to list the build sheet and mark what I already have done. I would like you thoughts on hp/tq numbers I could possibly see and Different brands or routes to go with different parts of the truck. Also would like opinions on my taste for the appearance of the truck. = Purchased/On Truck = Tab is Open On Computer But Haven't Pressed Checkout. Mainly a Funds Problem haha Build Sheet: 1998.5 Cummins 5-Speed 13" Valair Single Disc 500/100 Clutch Kit w/ 1 3/8" Upgrade Input Shaft ATS 3-Piece Manifold BorgWarner SXE 62/68/70 Turbo HX40 Downpipe 5" Straight pipe Exhaust to 8" Tip Crazy Carls Intake Elbow Crazy Carls Tunnel Ram Intake 7x.011 Sac Injectors - DFI 104# Valve Springs Heavy Duty Pushrods - DFI ARP 425 Headstuds S&B Intake Fluidampr Quadzilla Adrenaline w/ Iquad(Possible V2 Upgrade?) Smarty S03 Traction Bars Track Bar - DOR Steering Brace - DOR All new HD Steering Components - Moog 2.5" Leveling Kit 18x10(12) or 20x12 Chrome/Forged Wheels with 33 or 35" Tires Bedliner Front Shocks Rear Shocks Stabilizer Shock Windshield Tint All Around as I have some kinda eye condition where I go blind when I see lights at night. I forgot what its called. Supposed to get a prescription fro doctor. Redo Entire Interior from Carpet to headliner Tow Mirrors(Folded In Until Needed) Clear Projector Headlights, LED Tailights, Led Third Brake Light Remove Tailgate Plastic New Paint Chrome Door Handles Colormatch Bumper Plastics

DODGE 2012 HO CUMMINS Hello everyone. It appears the forums are not as busy as they once were. I was hoping to create this forum for owners of the 2012 Dodge 6.7 HO. I believe this will be a good place for owners of this rig to share tips, tricks, service manual links or anything else related to this year specifically. 2012 HO, 4x4 4:10 gears, auto.

I was tight for an appointment. I always start whatever vehicle & let it idle while I set up GPS & fasten seatbelts... The Cirus just shut off. Refused to restart although it turned over fine. I grabbed my stuff, GPS, fired the CTD up & away I go. I was ON IT to make up time, so I'm sure I screwed up mpg. I hit WOT a few times & the low restriction exhaust definately is louder. I made it on time. I "old lady" drove the CTD on the way back to earn back some mpgs... I tried restarting the Cirus. It seemed like it wanted to start but really wasn't firing at all. About the third try, I got one cylinder to kick in & ran the rest of them into operating. I don't get it...Russ

Well it has come time to rebuild my transmission. Ive recently replaced the governor solenoid and sensor, adjusted bands and replaced filter and fluids. Well now it is not down shifting. The forward band is worn beyond use, and I'm sure that with the shifting issues I've experienced over the last two year that the rest of the internal works are worn just as bad. Ive adjusted bands, changed fluid and filter, adjuster TV cable, replaced solenoid and sensor, and still no improvement. So it is just worn out, closing in on 200,000 miles with a stock tranny, I can't complain. :lol:So I'm doing the Sun Coast M3GA 3 Alto Transmission Kit, Sun COast Triple Disc Torque Converter, Sun Coast Billet FLex Plate/Fly Wheel, ARP Fly Wheel bolt upgrade, Sun Coast's governor solenoid upgrade it with housing, and Mag-Hytec 727 D Deep Dish Pan. What else should I change while in there? The rebuild kit from Sun Coast comes with every thing internal including shift kit for the valve body. But are there other parts I should do while Ive got the tranny on the bench, either to the truck or transmission. I am gonna replace the TV cable also as it is fraying up at the throttle connection. Thank guys.

Hey guys, new to the forum. I have a '98 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 5.9L 24valve automatic 2 wheel drive 3:55 rear axle ratio. I have done literally everything I could possibly do to my truck to improve the mpg. Yet, I cannot seem to get anything over 15-16 mpg in the city and hwy can vary from 16-22 mpg. Current mods are afe cold air intake, airdog 100gph pump, rv275 injectors, smarty tuner, 4" straight exhaust, IAT fooler, scanguage 2, tires are toyo m-55 245-75-16 filled to 80 psi. The truck would get 15 mpg city/hwy bone stock with a 3" exhaust however when the fuel pressure was tested I was told that it was at 9psi at idle. I'm wondering if its done damage to the already weak vp44 I seem to see other 4x4 trucks getting 18 mpg city as for me doesn't matter what smarty setting I am on or how much timing I give it if I really baby the heck out of it I can maybe manage to pull 16 possibly 17 city hwy mix. I'm planning on changing my diff oil to amsoil 75-90 same weight as I have in there now just hoping the amsoil will help also running 5-30 amsoil in the motor with a bypass. What could be causing the mileage to be so low? Truck shows no signs of starving for fuel I have the airdog set at 18psi now but if damage has already been done not knowing how long its been running 9psi from the PO is there any test I can do without having to pull the whole pump out?

So I had a bunch of random fire truck parts laying around the shop and I decided I was going to make a flag pole and holder for my truck. I used a piece of Pierce grab rail for the holder, it's attached to my tool box via grab rail stanchions off a Pierce. The flag pole itself is a piece of stainless rod used in ROM roll up doors on Pierces, the clips are off of Scott Air Pack Brackets, and the misc. hardware is all Pierce issued stainless hardware. Of course the first flag I had to fly was the 100th Anniversary of Pierce Fire Trucks flag

i have oil in my radiator and ive checked the oil cooler. is there any other possibilities that i should check before checking the head gasket??

Here you go gang... I finally got a list of error codes put together for you... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=124 This should cover 2007 and up Dodge Cummins for error codes.

EDIT: PM ISX for diagram Hey Gang... I got the 1997 Dodge Cummins full color wiring diagram finally compiled for you guys and gals. 1997-Dodge-Cummins-Wiring-Diagrams.pdf Enjoy...