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Showing results for tags 'front axle'.
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Replacing Later Model ABS Speed Sensors I would like to make a shout out to the member that sent me the front sensor back in the spring of the year. Long overdue but now I got the time to replace my well wore out and damaged ABS sensors. So here we go I'm going to do both side. Total time to replace is 30 minutes for both. Start out by jacking up the front axle and jack standing the axle for safety. Now remove the tire using the proper socket and impact gun. Mine being aftermarket wheels is a 3/4" socket. After the wheel is removed grab a large flat blade screwdriver and pry both caliper piston back a little. Now using a 5/8" 12 point socket remove the two bolts holding the caliper frame. Now lift off the caliper and frame as a assembly. Now you should be able to remove the rotor. Note: Early series trucks have the rotors held in place by the wheel studs which requires removal of the unit bearing. Now grab a proper sized Allen wrench to remove the Allen bolt holding the speed sensor. Now you may lightly bend the shield metal up to gain some room. Now I'm working with the passenger side so I got to get the BHAF and heat shield out of the way. Now I will have access to the connector up top. So now just careful remove all the old ABS sensor and lead taking note of where its routed along the brake line and frame. Now route the new sensor in the very same manner. Making sure to snap in the wire in all the clips and push the holders back into the holes on the frame. Now carefully bend the shield metal back down over the ABS speed sensor. Slide your rotor back up on the wheel studs. If you need to use a pair of open face lug nuts to hold the rotor in place. Now slip the caliper and frame back over the rotor. Grab your blue loc-tite and put a bit on the bolts. Re-install the two bolts holding the caliper frame. Before mounting your wheel again double check that the wire is out of the way of any moving parts and not going to be damaged. Now remount your wheel and tire and torque your lug nuts. Now for the lights ABS and BRAKE both lights should go out within a very short amount of travel. Like in my case just getting outside the door frame of the shop the ABS and BRAKE lights went out.
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OK so I'm up in the hills hunting and the high of the day is usually 8*f ..so as I'm driving down the hill and i take a hard left on a switch back.when its time to go straight it doesn't center back up??????i have to stop the truck and turn excessively right then everything is normal.i cant figure out if it is my steering box or has something to do with my four wheel drive.it only happens when I'm in 4 wheels and really cold.any ideas?
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I just replaced the front Brakes, "rotors,calapiers, & pads, Left on a trip to New Mexico the Day after. I noticed a A LOUD clicking in the Drivers side front wheel at the first stop light in town. It continued to do this for about 3/4 of the way and then it quit. anything to worry about?? P/S did not have a torque wrench big enough to set torque on wheel nut, just torqued w/ 3/4 ratchet and pipe -
99 3/4 ton diesel 4x4,241hdwhen in 4wd i have loud clunking under front of truck.iv'e checked in the diff and both axle u-joints and front bearings.all look good, could it be the front drive shaft u-joints making this noise?any body had trouble with this?thanks in advance
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i was changing my oil today and when i took out the bhaf and intake pipe i saw some oil on the fender well. it is apparently coming out of a hose with a funny cap on it. it sits about 4" in front of the pcm under the bhaf. the hose runs from the fender well to something on the front axle, passenger side. i am not familiar with this at all. there is not alot of fluid on the fender well and it is cover with dust so whatever is coming out of it is doing it slowly. seemed to be spread out to much for gear oil, but then again i dont know what i am dealing with. Can someone please enlighten me.i also heard what i think was the belt tensioner pulley starting to squeal. after it warmed up, whatever is was quit. pretty sure it was the pulley though. The FSM says it is serviced as a unit but i can buy just the pulley or the unit. any of you just replaced the pulley? -
My right front axle seal is leaking and I'm wondering how to change it. I have the CAD apart and I can see myself getting the old one popped out but driving a new one in looks a little difficult. Does Dodge have a special tool to do this? -
So my steering has s*cked for a long time, and the other night I took it to a mechanic I feel is pretty good and knowledgeable. He checked my truck all over in the front to see what was making it wander so bad. Poped the tie rods off, checked balls joints for play and sticking, drivers side perfect, no sticking, pass side a bit up and down but no sticking. Trak bar, universal joints in the axles, tie rod, etc all good. I have the steering brace, etc. His conclusion (he drove it also), steering box was really tight feeling and a very very small bit of play in the shaft. Bearing up in the column had no play he said.. He could find nothing else wrong so he thinks put a box on it. So i'm goling to order the Borgenson and a shaft while i'm doing it. Now my question is, I am looking on the net where i'm going to order from and i'm a bit unclear... some say they are rebuilt boxes, some say brand new. Some say they have 14:1 ratio, Geno's garage claims his are 13:1 . Can someone give me the details on these boxes ? Are there two types that can be bought, are the brand new, rebuilt or what? Anyone have the full specs on them, piston size, shaft size, turns lock to lock etc? Appreciate any ino because I want to order one in the next couple of days. Thanks
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All, In my area, its not unusual to find a craigslist ad for complete suspension for a 3rd gen Ram. Usually they put a lift kit in and then the flip the suspension on Craigslist. I ended up buying everything (3rd gen track bar, shocks, shock towers, springs, steering dampener, track bar...) for less than it would have cost me to buy new control arms from Chrysler. So not only do I have lower control arms, i am halfway to a trackbar mod and I have softer 3rd gen springs if I decide to make the truck ride nicer. The LOWER control arms on the Ram 2500s from 2003 - 2009 work on our trucks, and they are completely boxed in and appear to have a stronger bushing than the stock control arms. The upper control arms from the 3rd gen trucks are 1/2 in shorter than the 2nd gen arms and won't fit. The front coil springs will fit, although they are a lot smaller diameter than the stock 2000 springs. It also appears that the rear springs will fit dimensionally, although I am not sure if the pinion angle will be correct... But that is fixable with a good spring shops shims. I will add pics when I get a chance, probably a couple weeks, as work is going to be murder for the next couple.
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My brides 2001 2500 needs ball joints her 38" tires have destroyed her stock ones. I know the tires are wee big and the 7 inch lift doesn't help. We are ordering moog ball joints tonight and I'm wondering if any one has part #s for them. We see a lot of different part #s and want to make sure we are golden. It is a cummins and is a Dana 60 I am assuming.Any beter than moog? Thanks in advance guys :)Lance.....
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my owners manual calls for 75w/90 gear oil for the front and rear diff. is there any reason that you cannot use 80w 90 gear oil insted. the reason i ask is 80w 90 is plentiful. i can get it in gallon jugs, quart bottles whatever. 75w 90 only comes in quart bottle here and finding 5 in one store is almost impossible. just wondering what you guys think.
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I am told by a Dodge mechanic that the control arms will fit. Anybody try this? Does anybody know if the front springs will fit? Perhaps level out the truck without a levelling kit? -
OK, so im in search of some front wheel bearings. I need one but I might as well do both. looking for some bearings that are decent. Anyone know of any good ones?
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If anyone needs a free Dana Spicer 70 Repair Manual, here is the link: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/AXSM-0053.pdf I found this while researching changing my front Dana 60 & Rear Spicer 70 ring & pinion gear ratio from 4.10 to 3.54 (or anything close to this). If anyone can give me advice on how to do this (ie: if it can be done, what I need to buy to get this done (special carriers?, best gear sources, special tools, etc.) I would really appreciate it. Thanks for any help.- 12 replies
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- dana 60
- front axle
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Just got done replacing axle u joints, seals, and tie rods on feed pickup 158000 miles
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My track bar is getting worn and was wondering if a stock replacement is OK. I have seen the after market ones but wondered if they are worth the extra $.
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Ok Gang... I have had enough of my truck need constant counter-steering to the left it get back enough I'm starting to have problem hold it straight. I've got 183K miles on the clock and nothing but front axle bearing have been done. Anyone got sure fire ways of inspection of the ball joints and tie rod ends to tell if they need replacing. I know I could look in the Dodge FSM but I rather hear from all of you that have done axle work and what to look for. I can say my tires are still wearing good and straight no feathering or tappering of the tread. I'm going to jack up the nose of the truck and take a peek and see what I can find... -
Well boys, I finnally decided to replace my ball joints,@ 325k. Had them replaced around 160k, and it cost me over 1200.00 . I bought a set of XRP's from a store in Dallas a few weeks ago. I started on the drivers side yesterday around 8:30 in the morning, finally got them both out around 1:00, man were they stuck. Broke 2- 1/2" Craftsman breaker bars and 2 cm ratchets and 1 Snapon. Went to Sears in Arlington to change them out, lunch. Went to Northern Tool and bought a 900 ft lb 1/2" air ratchet, since my Stanley wouldn't hack it. The new one didn't hack it either. I had bought a ball joint press from HF, and man is it junk. Broke the middle receiver spacer on the upper, had to drop back and punt. Anyway, finally got them installed and moved to the right side around 5:15 and they were as bad as the other side. Soaked them both with PB Blaster, put the new BJ's in the freezer and called it quits for the night. Hit the other two around 1:00 this afternoon, after going back to Sears to change out 1 more breaker bar and another ratchet. I hit the upper with the new a/r and just kept after it. Finally came out, got the lower out with a little persuasion and a rap with the 3lb sledge. This was my first attempt at B/J's. I didn't think that it would take as long as it did, the guy on u tube did one side in 30 mins. I don't know about anyone else's luck, but i'd stay away from the HF press.
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I'm getting ready to channge my wheel bearings and front axle u joints. What size socket is the front axle nut?Any other pointers for doing this job would also be appreciated. Thanks
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My wheel bearings are shot and I'm having trouble finding the right ones. My truck is a 99 and has front ABS, is this unusual? Th person at hub and bearing warehouse didn't know that 99's came with front ABS. Would bearings for a 2000 work?
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So what should I know heading into this project? I came across this somewhere (maybe it was even here somewhere, can't remember) and wonder what you guys say about it. http://www.turbodieselregister.com/tdrarticles/tdrarticle53_fromtheshopfloor.html I plan to go with Moog parts. What about the alignment, I understand that getting things set precisely is important on these trucks. I have a serious wandering problem and hope to gain a lot of ground with this problem.
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I need new front axle u joints and the only ones I can find localy are precision u joints. Are these any good? Should I go with greasable or sealed? I don't mind doing the maintenance.
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Well i bought my 2001 dodge 2500 quad cab 4x4 about 1.5 months ago and have already replaced lift pump, vp44, and radiator clean from puck bottle. Last night i was in my way home and front wheel bearing went out, dang near lost a wheel, that was another $300.00 for a part. so i checked thr other side it was good and i will change it in a couple months due to money, any way took the other side aprt to check and grease the brakes pins and guess what no pin bushings on one side and dry as a bone with almost new pads. I don't understand how people think there mechanics and not do the job correct. Now the question the abs light came on when the bearing came apart and now the light stays on for 3-5 mins going down the road and then shuts off. Is this correct?
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Here Mike, make an article around this video Fine I will later.
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I started my ball joint replacement today. It took a while to find the 1-11/16 socket. All the sears around me were out of them and the parts stores wanted 40$+. I am down to removing the Hubs. I tried the socket and power steering trick to no avail. Sledge hammer did not work either. Hubs have had a daily dose of PB blaster since Wednesday. Going to try a portapower tomorrow. I think I can get in to bite on the outer C. any other suggestions? Any homemade hub pullers? Do the Hub pullers push on the axle shaft? I have searched both forum and could not find much. Thanks Eric -
I was looking under the truck after spotting a stain by the passenger side of my truck directly below the tire. It also appears that it has gotten on the tire. However under closer inspection this is what I found. I am going to check the vent tomorrow and see if it plugged up. But other than that has anyone changed the seals in a Dana 60 before?
