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Showing results for tags 'iat sensor'.
Found 8 results
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I have an H/O 6 speed exhaust brake 2001 3500 with 15300 miles now I was stumbling around here and found a thread on cleaning these sensors so I went ahead and pulled them out and and they where very black to say the least now I pulled a pretty good hill just to see where I was at on the EGT and boost then claened the sensors and the same numbers came up didn't seem to help right off the gitgo now should I notice a difference long term or should I be looking at somthing else. Truck seems to run fine no problems but you know could always use more power.Also I do have a banks performance chip don't remember witch one maybe this is over ridding these sensors any ideas?
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I cleaned my IAT Sensor this morning, wasn't that dirty, and plan on doing the MAP tomorrow morning (didn't have a 1 1/16 socket). This morning I checked the resistance on the IAT sensor, at approx. 43-47 degree F. I was getting 28.60 Ohms. Interpolating from Mopar1973Man's supplied temp/ohm chart, this sounds about correct. Anyone think that's incorrect?I also put a temporary air blocker in behind the grill this afternoon, as I noticed yesterday while driving to work 60 miles at a temp of around 27 F. that my IAT from my scan gauge was around 73 F. which seems a bit low. From the reading I've done here, the higher the better (up to a certain point I'm sure). Tonight went on a little test drive at an ambient OAT (outside air temp) of around 34 F. and my IAT is around 85 F. Does this seem right, or should I still see a higher IAT, i.e. is it possible my IAT needs replaced? I'm pretty sure the IAT gauge on the scangaugeII is correct, as this morning with the truck cold it pretty much matched the ambient temp outside. Any thoughts/suggestions? Thanks. -
Do ya-all think there is an upper limit for our intake air temperature? Why I ask is since putting on the BHAF I have seen temps in the high 160 sitting in traffic with the A/C on. Just thinking..……Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I heard of a discussion from a guy that moved his AIT sensor to the intake tube. Any thoughts on doing that mod?
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My truck isn't running the heater grid when cold as it should. Wait to start is only lit for a second or so and goes out with water in fuel. That's based off the temp seen at the IAT sensor, right?Hopefully killed the sensor with diesel contamination and haven't given myself harness issues yet. Just replaced bad injection lines again... There's been lots of fuel loose under my hood
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So far i have check the following: 1.-check the relay it self by manually appling voltage and they work. 2.- confirm that the grownd side of the relay coil is not open 3.- At the connector comming from the ECM there is no voltage when set the ignition switch on Am I looking into a defective ecm?
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Well gang... I've been playing with theories and ideas for long enough now its time to put them into a design and see if it actually works. We all know the 24V's seem to take a good tumble in MPG's as the winter sets in well ISX proved that with the 12V engines with static timing that MPG's don't change. Well if you look at it the only thing that could be tossing this out the window is the IAT sensor on the 24V is changing the VP44 performance. Most know that colder air produces better HP/TQ because colder air is denser and requires more fuel to keep balanced. Well if you reverse this and warm the air (in theory) the VP44 should retune and burn according to the manifold temp. So what I've done tonight is fished through my resistor pile and found 3 I'm going to use for test candidates. Orange - White - Red - Gold = 3.9K Ohm = 116*F IATRed - Violet - Red - Gold = 2.7K ohm = 132*F IATRed - Black - Red - Gold = 2.0K ohm = 148*F IAT So now tomorrow I'm going to pull 3 test runs on the same piece of highway... Seeing if the highier the IAT temp increases the MPG or not... I'll can give you something to think about... Grid heaters are NOT controlled directly by the IAT... With the 2.7K Ohm resistor in place before even starting the grid heater still where hitting as normal. So there is more to the grid heater that the IAT temps... ... On the cutting edge again...
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My son has a 2002 Ram 2500 HO 6 speed manual. About a week ago, the codes p0112 and p0237 showed up.We took off the Edge EZ otherwise the truck is stock.Cleaned the IAT sensor. Did not look that dirty.The MAC Scan tool (determinator) was unable to read the IAT or MAP voltages.Not sure if this is a limitation of the scan tool or an ECM problem.We cleared the codes but they return immediately when the ignition is on. We checked all the grounds and cleaned the battery terminals.The batteries were both at 12.7 volts.Measured resistance from the IAT gnd terminal on the connecter to engine block and got 0-0.1 ohms.So I think the grounds are ok. Measured the voltage of the IAT signal return wire while running and it was 1.6 volts. (1.35 not running).So I think the IAT sensor is ok. We did step 4 of the p0112 error code trouble shooting. 4. Using DVOM, measure resistance between IAT sensor harness connector terminals. If resistance is less than 100 ohms, repair short to sensor ground in IAT sensor signal circuit. If resistance is 100 ohms or greater, replace and program the ECM. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article.We got 6.8 kOhms. We removed the ECM and measured the resistance between pins 7 and 11 and got the same value. So we think the ECM is bad.Is there any other DVOM tests that can be done to ECM to determine if it is bad?Can Cummins test an ECM on the bench (removed from truck)?If it is the ECM, where is a good place to get another one?
