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Will i haven't been on for a long time thought i would start with a fun post. So I am see what other have paid to replace there rear ends. Also what brands you have gone with in the rebuild. I have three shop in my area give me a ball park low end was 1800 and high end was 3200. So far i have found pieces of my posi and i had one piece of a shim out of the pinion come out. As far as brand I can get Yukon, Nitro, and one place orders from Randy ring and pinion. Sad is this will be the first thing on this truck in 300k that has been done in my drive way. I have never been into a rear end. So any one in Washington a master rear end installer.

Holy Crap! Scared the **** outta me! Not just once but several times... when you're not expecting it. Yeah, our camping trip week. I left wife setting up the tents! I had a big dose of yellow pine pollen & seasonal allergy response... an immune response. Multiple Sclerosis is an auto-immune disease. So my symptoms are increased right now. I'm not well enough to camp. I was planning to commute to camp... day tripping for me... towing my landscape trailer each day with my big scooter on it... so I can really get around camp... especially hauling a cannon... To salvage the vaca, I am borrowing the inlaws F word Explorer. I will need the truck to pack up camp but that's a single round trip, not 5 trips. I can't get the Dodge into the shop until wife is home for transport. I expect a tie rod end or something has sh*t the bed.

i have a D80 with 3.55 gearsi lucked into some humvee rims with beadlocks. they are 16.5x10.5 2 piece steelies. the smallest tire i can find is 33x12x16.5.i was thinking about going with a lower gear in the rear to help turn those beasts when i'm muddin(use the factories for highway). when they say "case split", what do they mean? are there 2 castings? they list some as "thin", is that what i need?thanks

Hello. I changed the pinion bearing on my 1999 dodge 2500 cummins. and i put back the shims that has been there. and if i tighten the pinion nut it will not turn. My question is if all the shims was put back in place and i over tightened the pinion nut should the pinion still turn? or i have to have it torqued right? I dont have a 500 torque wrench. or should i buy a shim (between the yoke and outer bearing?. I need to fix my diff in2 days the garage will be used after that. thanks in advance for any help. espanton@telusplanet.net

Curious.Whats involved with adding or replacing a leaf spring. :thumbup2:Never done it.

Seems to only do this when it gets warmed up...Coming off of the highway, stopping, then turning, it feels like the rear end has a locker...It does have limited slip. But sometimes if feels like its grabbing when you turn, and you can almost hear the tires breaking loose a little. I did change the rear end oil @ 1 year ago. I put Valvoline duralbend synthetic blend 80w90 oil in it. And it says its for limited slip...Maybe try a different oil??

ok.Going to highlight my ignorance in suspension/differentials here.Heard a squeak like brakes 2 days ago. Ignored it as it kind of sounded like it was comming and going like brakes.Kept coming back and as I was backing in today I jumped out and had wife back it up as it seemed worse hard turn in reverse.Not brakes. Definitely sounded like from the diff/u-joint area. I wondered if I had run out of fluid so pulled the rear diff plug - theres fluid but it really is burnt and darker in color and obviously there's metal on metal contact for that squeaking sound.Heres the tricky part. Its Saturday evening. Im in a state park and moving around 20 miles with 5th wheel tomorrow to another park. I dont think I have any choice but to hook up and carefully get it there and hope for best. Even then its then Sunday and I start a new job Monday and only have 1 car.So - whats everyone think could/is the issue, how to check ... and how about the driving I mention above ?Obviously Im going to pull the rear diff cover ASAP and see whats going on ......... but apart from seeing burnt fluid and some metal shavings ...... dont know what else to look for or expect.thx

So, I bought my truck a few months ago. Nice condition, well taken care of but was completely stock. I talked to previous owner and he said he had transmission built with heavy duty parts for towing and at the same time he went through and replace ring and pinion, seals, bearings in rear end at same time. I am and have done some upgrades but just want a good maintained reliable truck. Sorry I am going on and on but getting back to having rear end redone. When I changed the rear differential speed sensor today I pulled old one out and there were metal filings on the piece that sits inside the rear end. I thought maybe from before it was redone. So I put new one in and didnt put any oil on o-ring so I pulled it and put some oil on o-ring and noticed metal shavings on new sensor end. Do you think there is some wear already on new rear end or leftover from when they redid the rear end and obviously didnt clean it out very well? Not sure how that sensor is set in there to know if its from before or now? There is 10,000 miles on tranny rebuild and rear end. The only thing I have pulled is a boat and smaller trailers under 5,000 lbs.

Just checked my brake shoes and notice grease inside the hub and drum assembly on the left rear. No dust at all in the assembly. The right rear side was full of dust. I suspect it to be the oil seal. Only have 90k miles, is this a common problem at this mileage? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Also, is it very difficult to change the seal? I have a shade tree Mechanic and a repair manual to go by. Thanks.Mohok

heres the problem. while the truck is coasting there is a horrible vibration and loud hum coming from the rear end. the weird thing is any throttle at all makes it stop even the wait of my foot on the throttle. i have gotten out a few times and put my hand on the differential and its pretty hot. any ideas?

Can anyone tell me if the rear end in an 01 1 ton requires friction modifier? Thanks

I have a 99 24 valve auto, when you put it in drive, reverse, or park... there is a big clank. I'm told it's my rear rack/pinion setup. Does anyone have a write up on replacing it and best place to order parts??? I'm more than savy under the hood but this rear end situation is a little foreign to me.Thanks

Well my limited slip Posi trac has just about shot its last Wod...has been week for some time..last winter i noticed i was getting 0 assistance from the other wheel. Comming home THE OTHER NITE FROM WESTERN KY. IT STARTED ACTING WEARD.. IM THINKING OF REPLACING IT WITH A "EATON/DETROIT TRUCE TRAC....IS ANYONE RUNNING ONE OF THESE...NEED MORE INFO:shrug:Richie

Hey guys went to a truck pull tonight and din't pull very good and got to the end of the track and bang, broke the drivers side axle. Any one had this problem very often, Thanks:thumb1:

my owners manual calls for 75w/90 gear oil for the front and rear diff. is there any reason that you cannot use 80w 90 gear oil insted. the reason i ask is 80w 90 is plentiful. i can get it in gallon jugs, quart bottles whatever. 75w 90 only comes in quart bottle here and finding 5 in one store is almost impossible. just wondering what you guys think.

Couple questions about a rear axle swap. I have a line on a 3.54 ratio complete assembly from a '98 2500. My truck ('99 3500 DRW) is fitted with a Dana 80.1) Does a '98 2500 diesel use a Dana 80?2) Are there differences between axles used in SRW and DRW applications?3) Are there any differences between the rear axles on a rear wheel only ABS truck & all wheel ABS truck (mine is the latter)?4) Are U joints the same between the two?5) Any challenges with attaching to the springs?I'm aware of the speedo cal issue. Anything else I'm not considering?Appreciate the help,Joe in St Louis

If anyone needs a free Dana Spicer 70 Repair Manual, here is the link: http://www2.dana.com/pdf/AXSM-0053.pdf I found this while researching changing my front Dana 60 & Rear Spicer 70 ring & pinion gear ratio from 4.10 to 3.54 (or anything close to this). If anyone can give me advice on how to do this (ie: if it can be done, what I need to buy to get this done (special carriers?, best gear sources, special tools, etc.) I would really appreciate it. Thanks for any help.

Anyboday know what size socket I need for the Differential pinion nut? Hit a tire last night that was in the road and one one the steel wires took out my Diff seal.So now I'm stuck in Madison,WI.:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

I have a 2001 dodge quad 2500 4x4 auto with 34 in tires, question is I get lots of wheel spin with only 1 wheel pulling, but lock in 4 wheel drive the front end locks. Is the rear end open carrier when stock and what do yall recommend as a good locker for rear. Also thinking of going to a 410 gear from the stock 355 front and rear. Thanks for the help in advance

My brakes have been worse than normal lately and with new pads on the front, I knew it had to be the back. My driver side was all sludged with rear end oil so I guess there is a inner seal on the hub leaking.I got my axle out but there is some kind of little lock nut that I need to remove and ive never seen anything like it before. My jeeps never had anything like this full floater and I have never worked on one before so if you have any tips I would greatly appreciate it!

Will a rear end out of a 04 dully fit a 01 dully?

So i recently changed the fluid in my rear end (85-145 full synthetic) i checked around and was told that 4oz. of friction modifier was the proper amount to add to my rear dif. and i did so, problem is i am now getting a lot of wobble out of the rear end (this started about 3-4 days after changing fluid) and honestly feels like something is a little loose, the only other thing i could think of is the pinion bearings, and honestly they aren't that sloppy....any ideas, did i use too much modifier?all wheel lugs are torqued, tolerances were tight in the dif. when i had it apart last week (minus the slight play in the pinion but it was like that and didn't cause a wobble prior to this) drum brakes are good, wheel bearings are good, no play in 'em.....:shrug:thanks guys, Matt.

Alright, kinda wish I would have taken more pictures, but I was hot and ready to get it back on the road... So here is what I got, perhaps this will help someone looking to replace their own. First things first. Go out and take a look at your Dana 80. Now, I don't have a photo of the other type for comparison, but there are actually two different Dana 80's in the 2001 and 2002 model year. This is important to get the proper seal. For my axle, in a 2001.5 Ram 3500 quad cab 2wd diesel 6 speed, it has the non flanged yoke and the double stepped down pinion shaft seal. Part number is 5015618AB from Dodge... Now the other seal (for the flanged yoke) is 5073944AA... Here is a picture of what a NON FLANGED YOKE looks like. So.. If yours looks like this, you must go with the top seal ending in AB... Now for the required tools..... -Some kind of torque multiplier (Pinion nut is TIGHT) -Various hand tools (sockets and driver to remove the driveshaft) -Craftsman, 2 jaw puller, small one and the large one -24" Pipe wrench or miller tool 6719 yoke holder. I am poor, so I used a pipe wrench..... -1 7/8" craftsman 3/4" drive socket. Details later.... -torque wrench Now, about the 1 7/8" socket... You can go try and find a thin wall socket of that size, or you can spend $25 bucks at sears for this socket and take some meat off it (yoke is thick inside around the nut for strength) Now how to do this.... First, the service manual says you need to check pinion bearing preload with an in-lb dial type torque wrench with the wheels and brake completely removed. I did not do this. Why? Because I used to work at a Dodge dealer and we NEVER had any problems doing it the way I did mine and am about to explain to you. This axle does not use crush sleeves for bearing pre-load... It uses shims, like most H.D. rear ends. Now, the way I do this is the same way that the FORD service manual spells out the procedure for their trucks equipped with the dana 80. Ok, so here is the problem... 1. First thing you want to do is clean and dry up everything around the yoke as best you can. 2. Mark everything with a sharpie or paint pen to realign it later. 3. Block the front tires and support the rear of the truck with jack stands.- or do this on your lift. Also put tranny in neutral. 4. Remove the u-joint retaining hardware. The u-joint caps on mine were rusted into the yoke... Don't use a hammer to try and free it if yours is this way, you can damage the pinion bearings. Take a big pry bar and pry it apart. It will come. --Now you can see that beast of a nut. I sprayed some penetrating oil on the treads of the pinion shaft to make it easier to unscrew. 5. Take your pipe wrench or yoke holder and pin it against the frame or put a cheater pipe over the end and brace it against the ground. You are trying to secure the pinion and yoke from rotating as you try to remove the nut. 6. Hope you ate your wheaties, if you don't have a tq. multiplier you are going to have to get a 3/4 drive breakover bar and cheater to get this thing loose or a beast of an impact... I used a 1:6 torque multiplier that is 1/2" input and 3/4 out. It was tight. and once its loose, you can just start unscrewing it. 7. Get your 2 jaw puller and go to town on that yoke.... MARK IT FIRST!!! It needs to go back on in the same position it came off!!! It is tight all the way off!!!! Inspect it... Probably will have a nice little groove... Mine did... If the groove is bad enough, it WILL ruin your seal quickly. You can get a SKF Speedi Sleeve for the yoke or buy a new yoke from dodge ($140) 8. Now you can pull the seal out. Mine was a bit** and I ended up just destroying it to get it out... :banghead: Now you are almost to the finish line!!!! 9. Use a seal driver to install the seal. Make sure it is seated fully. 10. Put the yoke back on. It is tight!! You will have to use a rubber mallet probably to get it seated far enough to thread the nut and washer to get it cinched down the rest of the way.... 11. Tighten it up until the yoke is back in it's home completely. 12. Get your pipe wrench again and pin the yoke where it wont try and rotate. Torque the nut to around 450-500 lbs. Most will disagree on this step, there is some debate about on the correct torque for used bearings... I have seen them do it at most shops, they just impact it off and then back on... I don't trust that method... I set my torque wrench to 80lbs through a 1:6 multiplier and came out with something close to the factory tq. spec. NOTE: most say to use a new nut, but I did NOT. WE shall see if this bites me later on. I don't THINK it will loosen up from 500 ft lbs. That is pretty tight. But who knows....