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Well I have finally came up with a solution for the dreaded torque management that has plagued us 2nd gen owners for decades, and best of all its free. It all happened by accident actually. I opened up my trans due to some funny shifting issues and found every screen inside it was full of metal shavings. Which obviously meant that they got past the filter but more on this later. I cleaned all the solenoids and sensors of the metal and the little screens that protected them along with installing a new filter and fluid. Everything was good for about 2 weeks then all of a sudden after i left a drive thu i lost all forward gears. I messed around with it for a little while (like 4 hours) trying to figure out what happened. If I let the truck sit for a minute or 5 off i would get line pressure and could move the truck about 200 ft before losing all gears again. However when i would lose all forward gears and the truck was stationary i would only be able to rev the truck to 2000 rpm (basically felt as if it was in neutral) but if it was in park or neutral i could go balls to the wall 3700. So after quite a while a friend towed me home and i couldn't find anything on what my problem was. There were only about 5 forums were people had the exact same symptoms. One of them suggested it was a clogged filter and everything settled back into the pan after being off for a few minutes. So $6 later in a new filter and some new fluid i had laying around it was once again going better than the day i bought the truck. This is when i began thinking of the weird rev to 2k in drive but 3700 in N or P. I also noticed when trying to do a burnout or 4x4 launch in the past 2 years of owning the truck i could only build up to 2000 rpm before it started cutting fuel, then upon launch it would start bucking (I'm sure we've all been there) then pull like a mule. This led me to my idea, I crawled under the truck today and pulled off the connector to the neutral/reverse switch and found out which pin is for the neutral safety switch (its the top 2 pins). I then shorted the 2 wires together with a paperclip and went for a test drive. The truck went through the gears no problem 1-2-3-3lock-4-4lock as it would normally at all throttle positions, the lock-up switch still performed as it did before. I went into an abandoned dirt parking lot, put it in 4x4, and began to mash the brake and accelerator. The truck very quickly got to about 2500 rpm and about 30-35 lbs of boost. At this moment i knew it had worked. I built boost again and launched the truck, I had full fuel off the line with no bucking whatsoever, next I did a burnout with the same result. The only problem i ended up having is after about 20-30 minutes the truck threw a p1899 code for the switch being shorted which defaulted the computer and turned TM back on. However if you put it on a toggle switch you would be able to turn off TM at any time, and shut it back off before the computer knows while retaining all your gauges vs other options out on the market. Also if the neutral switch is "On" you will not be able to use cruise control so a switch would be the best option. I still have some more testing to do but this fix has worked every time I have tried it so far. This was my experience with my own experiment on my truck, if you would like to attempt this you do so at your own risk. It fuels fast and it fuels hard. If you have any questions feel free to ask

Good afternoon everyone, forum newbie here. Looking for help with an issue on my 2001 5.9 Automatic. I've owned this truck for a couple of years now and had various issues fixed. But one that I can not get fixed is a complete lack of power towing. I have a 27ft 5th wheel thats only ~8000 Lbs. The truck alone with me and my passengers / family weighs 7980. So, I'm just around 16,000. Going down the highway, especially starting up any grades I rapidly loose speed. I've towed as long as I have been driving with other rigs and know that when you loose momentum its likely not coming back. But to the point... Even on flat ground or a 1% grade, around 65MPH, my choices are OD locked out and almost 3000RPM or OD on and 2000RPM, the 2000 though is the MAX, it will not go past that. While doing research I found TSB 18-024-00 which talks about an issue almost identical to what I am experiencing (my engine is in the date and serial number ranges mentioned). Armed with this knowledge I went to the dealer to have them flash the relevant parts to fix this issue. The technician stated the computers were already at the latest software and there was nothing they could do for me. But happily charged me. I didn't believe them so I argued and went back stating "I asked you to flash it, just flash it" he said "Its the latest version so the computer wont let me flash them" The only things that came of this interaction were getting the 3cyl/high idle software enabled. The technician continued to state "This is a California truck, we can sell you an Idaho truck, brand new"... NO! I've done tons of searching and can't find if there are any differences between CA and Non-CA for 2001, I know all the new trucks are the same due to the new emissions controls. I know I have the issue mentioned in the TSB, is there somewhere other than a dealer that I can get my computer force-flashed to the latest software to fix the TSB? (Without buying EFI Live or Smarty) ? The other claim by the technician was to just use the Edge Juice w/Attitude CTS2 that I had installed in the truck to override it and that it would not hurt the engine or the transmission. I had originally only installed it for the gauges (best PID coverage for the money at the time), but it came with the tuning features for only $100 difference, I originally had no intention of using them. I want my truck to be able to tow in mode 0 (stock-ish) without pushing it. But yes, surprisingly, changing to even mode 1 immediately breaks the 2000RPM limit. Lift PSI is 5 to 7 at this time. Extra info: Things I've fixed: Torque converter surging due to misplaced ground. Stock replacement fuel pump (bad decision I know) Things I've upgraded: BHAF. Edge Juice CTS2 Things I'm trying to fix: The Limit noted in this post (Lack of Power), Low boost / excessive black smoke even on stock mode... need to build the tester. Things I'm wanting to upgrade: Injectors, I read and hear a lot of opinions here +50, +75... I want fuel economy,and power, not trying to hot-rod this, its a tow vehicle. Fuel Pump.. Ive heard good and bad about many brands and am caught up in a brand war here in Boise, one dealer of both FASS and AirDog said they've pulled AirDogs out of the box that didn't work and can't get them warrantied even before install. The other dealer of both says the same about the opposite brand. My friends who's owned these and is a mechanic, but not diesel said just to go with the in-tank conversion and not an expensive setup...

my 01 has a smarty/revo and i still have trouble building boost on the line .the tq man is defueling it.i dont want a rad box. can i get a ecm from a 99 or 2000? if i can how do i find the perfect matching ecm?

I have a problem that ain't really a problem but I can't spool my turbo up for a good launch in 1st gear. It seems the engine just defuels or somethin and I just get about 9lbs of boost max. Smokes like crazy tho so I know it's getting fuel!! Any1 familiar with this??

i'm looking for answers as to how to eliminate my torque management system on my 01.w/no mods in stock form i could do a brake torque w/ my truck but no matter what kind of power i'v added over the 7 years had it i can not do so.you can see from sig i'v up graded much of the fueling system but to no aval.i want to do some drag racing(for fun nothing too serious)but the truck bogs out of the hole until i hit about 25 mph then it'll go pretty good.on damp or wet roads no issue so i think there some kind of senor that fells road resistance & limits power offthe line.i had a fooler box from BD Diesel that eliminated it but shut down the tach,oil,&water temp gauges.i didn't like not knowing what was happening inthese areas.has anyone else come across this &found a fix.please help if you can.:banghead:

First off hey all! First post and coming over from CR. Seems to be the more techy minds here. Ok my question is with tm and the smarty. Hopefully I can explain in words what's going on in my mind. Best way for me to describe smarty is it seems to shorten the pedal distance for the ECM to determine wot. My concern is with the auto trannies. Being that more power/tq is produced at less pedal movement, would the tranny not suffer from less tv pressure meaning less line pressure and lower clutch holding ability? The first years of 24v did not have tm so how did the transmissions deal with this? Is the bellcrank for the tv cable different or the lever on the tranny indexed different or is the vb valved different? I am running my smarty on 3 with the tm at 3 because of this. Just changing the tm levels the tranny shift points do change. Any ideas or am I off my rocker? Sorry for the long first post.