Search the Community

Hey all! Back again with more questions lol. So I am wanting to replace the the 2 bars for steering (I get confused with what to call them my bad, tie rods I'm assuming?), steering box (planning to go with a blue top), sway bar, track bar, and possibly ball joints, alignment shop told me one or both had a little bit of play but told me I wouldn't have issues with tire wear. If there are parts I'm missing that I should replace, please tell me below! Tire wear has been fine I believe and its been about 5k miles. Need to rotate soon. I have a LOT of slop in the steering, possibly kind of dangerous at this point lol. Biggest question is what brand to go with for these components. I keep hearing on forums these days that Moog is sadly not what they used to be... I just don't want to spend a bunch of money and have parts go out in a year or less. I also do not want to spend a fortune. I also see talk about changing to the "Y" steering I believe and I'm open to that suggestion if its truly worth it and I don't have to make any holes bigger on components to upgrade and/or spend a lot more than what the stock steering setup replacement would cost. Also, when doing the steering box, how can I make sure the pump is clear of debris? It's a new pump and I'd like to re use it but I want to assure there isn't any debris in there so I don't damage the blue top. Will be buying new power steering lines as well. Planning to do it all on my own to save money and use the hobby shop on base here. If any of you know anyone semi close to Camp Lejeune, NC and they'd be willing to help, I'd love the help if I'm able to get it lol. Will definitely bring a 6 pack (or more) for that person. Also, how far can I safely drive after replacing these components to get it aligned? We have a firestone on base which would be a mile or 2 drive, off base location would be a minimum of probably 8-10 miles. Open to ANY and ALL suggestions! Thank you.

Situation: Beginning a new job soon with 145 mile daily commute on hilly, curvy roads. Limited snow and ice. Truck still has play in steering, poor OEM lights, and mileage is sadly around 12mpg the last time I calculated it. Steering was some improved after addition of Luke's Link, but at highway speeds of 70mph the truck required me to keep 2 hands on the wheel to make sure I had control at all times. Truck: ’99 Quad Cab w/8 ft bed. Installed lower(?) balls joints on both sides a couple years ago, er...had installed. Installed Luke’s Link on OEM track bar Aug 2015 as I put on new tires and it could be aligned due to slop in the front end. Goal: 1st is safety. That means I have to see when I’m in the dark. It also means that I have to be able to keep the truck on the road with all the curves. I want to do what I can, within reason, beyond just keeping the foot off the pedal to improve the fuel economy (I know I’m not going to get huge increases, but even 2-3mpg would be great). Plan of Action: 1st, I’m going to crawl under the truck and make sure the Luke’s Link is still tight and see if any other components are loose. I’m no front suspension expert, so any pointers or directing me to specific threads would be great. There is almost TOO much info to sift through sometimes. 2nd, I have spoken with Daniel Stern about lighting. I’m going to install a 12ga harness for the lights to give them the full amperage they deserve. I’m also going to replace the OEM bulbs with Phillips improved 9004’s. When I get the money, I will then replace the OEM light housing with the OEM Sport Housing. Daniel convinced me to stick with the engineered components for longevity and reliability. I’m toying with the idea of adding some of further lighting like Mike did, but only after I have everything up and running the way it ought to be. Btw, my stock lights are about as hazed as can be. I know it isn’t great, but may try and sand them for a temporary minor improvement while I wait to get the money to order my sport housings. Question: What more do I need to do to get safe for all the hills and curves right now? Am I needing to replace track bar with HD version and that will improve steering/handling? I know I need a fuel pump ASAP and gauges, but those aren’t safety issues. I need them soon, as this truck has over 150k on the original VP44. But the front end and steering are what really has me a bit concerned. I know we all have lots of irons in the fire, but with everyone’s experience I hoped to save some time by at least having you point me to “go that way” rather than learning all aspects of the front end on a short time frame. Thanks for the help!!

Traack bar is destroyed again, 3rd one in 8 months. Anyone know of a 3rd gen track bar kit that will work with a 5 inch lift? All I can find are for "up to a 3 inch lift"

New to the forum, been doing a lot of reading since I bought a dead 98.5 cab chassis with an 11 foot service bed. Got her running soon enough and have most of the bugs worked out of her but I am troubled by a wobble - shimmy at about 64 to 68 MPH. Have replaced most all front end components (ball joints steering box - way bad, and a couple of the steering link joints link joints) as well as the the track bar twice. It is from Autozone. The first one I threw on a few weeks ago and didn't think anymore about it, had other know bad parts to replace. All said and done everything I've found to be bad has been replaced, some obvious, some checked with a dial indicator and jig. So.... this shimmy - wobble will not go away, got back in under the truck again to see the track bar moving vertically in the ball stud, more than obvious, 1/4" or more. Pull the track bar out, feels tight, but taking a set of channel locks an pressing down on the ball stud it appears to be spring loaded. Sent my boy off to get another one, he brings me back one that appears to spring loaded also, not as much available compression though, maybe 1/8" or a little more. My question to the forum is: Am i wrong in thinking that this ball joint should in no way, shape, or form, have any play what so ever or am I missing something? Thanks, I'll update my sig now. --- Update to the previous post... Toe, 1.5* Caster 3.5*,3.4* Thinking might be control arm bushings, look good, no slop while prying? Thoughts? --- Update to the previous post... Whoops, .15* toe, not 1.5* WOW!

My track bar is getting worn and was wondering if a stock replacement is OK. I have seen the after market ones but wondered if they are worth the extra $.

Well guys, With a lot of input from you all I got things sorted out a bit on my 2000. First off I installed new KYB mono max shocks on all 4 corners; much better ride! Then came a Lukes link kit on my track bar as well as a PSC steering stabilizer...HUGE difference! Installed my AD 150 with the big line kit between the stock fuel bowl and vp44 and a Draw straw 1 from vulcan . Got rid of my drop in k&n and installed a BHAF amsoil 4510 with a pre-filter. Changed the transmission oil and installed a Fuller eaton filter kit with amsoil synthetic syncromesh 5 w 30 (for less than half the cost of mopar fluid too! ) Also got a great deal on a frantz filter set up thanks to Mopar1973 going to bat for us and Deborah at wefilterit.com And finally I got my Edge juice with attitude monitor installed too (WOW). So far I am showing 22 PSI fuel at idle and 20psi pouring the coals to it! Early on when I began posting here I got a rash of crap about K&N filters...I was an ignorant sheep, yes I admit it now. Thankfully now a I have been educated as to what that extra flow actually costs. YIKE$$! So needless to say, all of my vehicles have been stripped of the K&N filter and now are using Amsoil nanofiber filters. If anyone would like a stock lift pump (engine mounted) that has VERY LITTLE use (2 months) please PM me and I will be happy to send it to you for $10 plus actual shipping. It worked fine when it was removed and is practically brand new. I guess I better start putting a dollar in the console every day so I can save up for a clutch job....it is only a matter of time! Thanks, Chris