Search the Community

Not sure If I'll need help with this topic just yet but decided to start this thread / discussion to help me get the mind-set. Maybe this thread can help others who need to sort out the trailer wiring. Ok so when I bought my truck in 2013, it didn't have a bed or body on the back. I basically bought a truck with just a cab. Previous owner was using it as welding rig. He got a new truck and swapped the welding body onto his new truck. Unfortunately he was not so nice and he cut ALL of the wires in the back for the tail light and towing. Left me with the rats nest bunch of cut wires. I used a test light to get the basics connected for the stop, turn and tail lights and a basic 4 pin connector for a small utility trailer. Now I'm getting ready to setup wiring correctly with an aftermarket 7 pin connector. I'm getting ready to do a little more serious towing. I'll be towing a 10,000 lbs dual axle / electric brakes enclosed car trailer from New Jersey to Florida Multiple times this May and June, each trip 2000 miles round trip.. I appreciate the availability of the 2002 FSM from the mopar1973man website and found the wiring - trailer tow diagrams. This will help with identifying the wires based on color codes among the mess of cut wires. This truck has the factory trailer tow package. There is a trailer relay in the PDC. There is a brake controller under the dash which appears to be wired to and connected to the factory harness, plugged above/in front of the brake/clutch pedals. The brake controller appears dead, and upon brief investigating found a blown trailer Jcase fuses in the PDC. (Mine had a 20 amp Jcase in the trailer slot, it should be 40 amp. Also, the stop lamp had a 40amp Jcase it should be 20 amp. I'm guessing the previous guy swapped them for some unknown reason. Also, for some reason the fuse slot numbers in my PDC don't match the fuse numbers in the FSM trailer wiring diagram. Is this a common issue? Wondering if it's a typo in the FSM. Going to try to figure out these cut wires one day this week, hoping for nice weather. For starters I've at least identified the LB (Light blue) electric brake wire among the rats nest. Pictures below starting with the rats nest: The brake controller, factory or dealer installed? MY pdc. Jcase fuses are mixed up. FSM Trailer Tow wiring diagrams:

Took my truck and trailer (trailer rated for 14000kg) and drove 3.5 hours to pick up a backhoe attachment, drove back. Filled up and checked my mileage and was very dissapointed to see the result! 11.6 mpg

I've got a Prodigy PIII. I was really looking for an Odyssey because of its presets.I have a mystery short somewhere that throws my PIII into overload/no brakes once in a while, drives me nuts. Thought it was an iffy magnet, but it's lasted through a complete brake job on the trailer.What do YOU use, and how do you like it?

Every towing forum needs one of these posts... right? probably the heaviest I've ever been. I didn't scale, but those are V8 E250s And finally what I really got the whole rig for. My Dakota is the rig in back. What to do when the tow rig gets stuck

Today went to Dealer to get a 2003 Elkhorn slide camper. It is a camper made for a short bed truck. The deal was done. Then i got the bright idea too weight my truck do to seeing that the camper weighed in at 2,745 lbs. The truck weighed in at 6,545 lbs. The total weight was 9.290 and put me 490 lbs over my GVWR of 8,800 lbs. So i had to break the deal.Now i know i have seen trucks like mine with even bigger camper on them. Are they setup in some special way? The dealer said airbags. But my thoughts are they would only make the load "happier" and not increase the GVWR. There is only 2,255 lbs to play with for the payload of my truck and there isn't too many NICE camper in that weight limit. I also tow a trailer with two quad weighing in at about 1,200 lbs total.Sorry for a long thread. Any thoughts?

Since my tranny blew the torque convertor I am forced to do another total rebuild on it. My question to you guys is that people are saying that the second generation automatics 47RE's are only rated to pull up to 30,000 pounds, with a built transmission? It seems kind of low. Any thoughts??

I'm a Non Motor Head Old Fart. My truck is described in the Sig Sec of this post. I currently tow a T/T of 8K. My CGVW is 16K (8K Truck & 8K Trailer) as per Dodge. I want to move up to towing 14K . What do I need to do, if anything? I have Boost, EGT, and Tranny Gauges. I have a Banks P/P and a S&B Cold Air Intake. :confused