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I just replaced the front Brakes, "rotors,calapiers, & pads, Left on a trip to New Mexico the Day after. I noticed a A LOUD clicking in the Drivers side front wheel at the first stop light in town. It continued to do this for about 3/4 of the way and then it quit. anything to worry about?? P/S did not have a torque wrench big enough to set torque on wheel nut, just torqued w/ 3/4 ratchet and pipe

i have got what sounds like a wheel bearing going bad. a low pitched growl that increases and decreases with wheel speed only. it doesnt change with engine rpm. trans can be in gear or in neutral, strictly constant with wheel speed. i have jack up both sides of the front and theris no movement in the wheels side to side or top to bottom. It is a 4 wheel drive and i dont now much about the drive axles. all of the boots apear to be in good condition and nothing seems out of the ordinary. is there anything else up front that might growl liek that?

OK, so im in search of some front wheel bearings. I need one but I might as well do both. looking for some bearings that are decent. Anyone know of any good ones?

On my way to school today I got a pending DTC. I stopped to check it out and got P0500 and p1693. Cleared it and then my ABS light came on. I looked up in my ultragauge to see if i had any other codes and got a P0216. Sounds like p0216 can pop as a result of others coming about. p0500 says theres no vehicle speed signal but I was getting a MPH reading on both my dash and the ultragauge as I was driving. None of this makes any sense... Damn truck! --- Update to the previous post... Parking brake light also stays on. --- Update to the previous post... This all sounds familiar, 1genro had this issue

Since it's been determined in the oil thread that "I too am a cheap azz". What's your thoughts on this: http://www.hubandbearingwarehouse.com/servlet/the-Dodge-cln-Ram/Categories

My wheel bearings are shot and I'm having trouble finding the right ones. My truck is a 99 and has front ABS, is this unusual? Th person at hub and bearing warehouse didn't know that 99's came with front ABS. Would bearings for a 2000 work?

To remove wheel bearings you must first get to them.I left one tire on the ground the other i used a jack stand to get it off the ground.The rotor can be a major pain.I use a air hammer with a dime size bit and hammer around the lugs.Some times this works.If the rotors are trashed just beat them.You will crack them but if there trashed and you are going to replace them then it is no biggie.You need to remove the brake caliper and the bracket that holds it.Be careful not to bend the dust cover it is sandwitched between the wb and the housing.Use a bungie or a coat hanger to hold up the caliper out of the way. The axle nut should stay on.Remove the 4 bolts 1/2 way out that hold the wheel bearing.Get a helper(wife will do) Start the engine.Get a socket extention,(or you can buy the 60 dollar tool) i used a 4 incher turn the steering wheel slow until the tool hits the bolt head then turn the steering wheel until the bolt and tool hits the flange of the axle.Now give it a firm tug after it stops.What you are doing is using the power steering to press the wheel bearing out.Repete the same way for the other 3 bolts.Check the bolt depth make sure you dont press if the bolt bottomed out,turn it out more.The axle will come out with the wheel bearing.Now remove the cotter pin and nut. Clean the hole where the wheel bearing goes into.I used a green scotch bright pad. Now you need to use anti seize on the new wheelbearing.Use it on the face of the axle,and in the hole Now would be a good time to put ball joints and u joint. I replaced the rotor,wb,u-joint,upper and lower ball joints.

Well i bought my 2001 dodge 2500 quad cab 4x4 about 1.5 months ago and have already replaced lift pump, vp44, and radiator clean from puck bottle. Last night i was in my way home and front wheel bearing went out, dang near lost a wheel, that was another $300.00 for a part. so i checked thr other side it was good and i will change it in a couple months due to money, any way took the other side aprt to check and grease the brakes pins and guess what no pin bushings on one side and dry as a bone with almost new pads. I don't understand how people think there mechanics and not do the job correct. Now the question the abs light came on when the bearing came apart and now the light stays on for 3-5 mins going down the road and then shuts off. Is this correct?