Quadzilla Timing Settings for the 2nd Gen 24-Valve Cummins: Empty Truck vs. Towing

This article covers timing settings for a Quadzilla tuner on the 2nd Generation (1998.5 to 2002) Dodge Ram 24-valve Cummins. Figuring out timing takes a bit of trial and error, so here is a guide to get you started. These are starting points that work well for me. Your truck, injectors and tune may want something a little different.

Quick reference

• Daily driver, empty truck: 15, 18, 21, 24 degrees, max 25

• Towing: 12, 15, 18, 21 degrees, max 22

• Where to start: 1500 RPM slider at 12 to 15 degrees, then step up 3 degrees at a time

Where to start

Take your 1500 RPM timing slider and start it between 12 and 15 degrees, then step up 3 degrees at a time. That is about all you really need. From there, a few other tweaks get you about as much timing as the truck will take.

Daily driving, empty truck

For a daily driver running empty, I use 15, 18, 21 and 24 degrees, with a max of 25.

An empty truck needs very little pulled-back timing, and the truck gets up to speed fast even with little boost.

There is a catch. The more timing you add, the less energy goes out the exhaust, so the turbo spools slower and boost is harder to reach. That matters because boost is what unlocks fuel on a Quadzilla: more boost means more fuel, and little or no boost means little fuel. So advanced timing is great for an empty truck, but it is not what you want when you need power.

Towing

For towing, pull the timing back to 12, 15, 18 and 21 degrees, with a max of 22.

This builds a lot of power, enough to fry the tires going up a 7% grade at 45 MPH.

Warning: do not get too aggressive with the fueling down low. The towing timing is meant to build power, and it is easy to get carried away. Adding a lot of fuel at low RPM, where the engine is under load but the turbo is not up to speed, puts a very large amount of torque straight into the drivetrain. That can damage the transmission, whether it is an automatic or a manual with a clutch. Power that your transmission cannot handle will cost you far more than the extra pull is worth.

If you are towing heavy, work up in small steps. Make one change, tow with it, and see how the truck and the transmission behave before adding more. If the transmission starts slipping, running hot or shifting hard, back the fueling off right away.

Torque management. The truck has torque management limits that exist to protect the drivetrain. Once you ask for more fuel than the torque limit allows, the extra fuel does not turn into extra pulling power. Past that limit you are only adding smoke, heat and stress. More fuel is not more power if the truck is already at its limit, and pushing past it is the quickest way to damage something like a transmission.

The better approach is to set your timing first and get the boost up, then add fuel only as far as the truck can actually use it. Once you reach the point where more fuel stops giving you more pull, stop there. That is your limit for that setup.

Finding your balance

Use those two extremes to find the balance you want. Start with the empty-truck numbers for daily driving, start with the towing numbers when you are hauling, and move toward the middle if you want one setting that covers both.

A few cautions

• Change one thing at a time and drive the truck before changing the next. If you change several things at once, you will not know which one helped.

• Watch your exhaust gas temperature (EGT) when you tow. If you do not have a gauge, get one before you try the towing settings.

• These numbers come from my own experience. Treat them as a starting point, not a guarantee, and back off if the truck does not like them.

Have you found timing settings that work well on your truck? Post them in the comments or the forum. Other owners would like to see them.