24Vdodge

Thanks for the reply, I never thought of a motor mount. I will look over the mounts in the morning just to be sure. Otherwise I am guessing the pipe was in the jig wrong when it was welded on. If the latter, I am tempted to cut the bracket off and adjust the down pipe as needed and re-weld it back on.

I have a exhaust question. I bought a MBRP 4" system for my truck in my Sig, back in May of this year. I am just now getting around to putting in on today. I put everything on and it went to pretty fast. Before I tightened down the clamps and hangers, I wanted to check the firewall to down pipe clearance, to see if it needed to be moved or pivoted. There is a 1/8" at best. Here are three pics of the down pipe. The two from the top look like it is sitting right up against the firewall pad, but when you look at it from from a different angle like in the 3rd pic you can see there is a "LITTLE" bit of clearance, about a 1/8" at best. I put a MBRP on my last truck (6/7 years ago) and I remember it had a lot more firewall clearance than this. If I recall correctly it had at least an inch, or better. What do you guys have for clearance? I took the long straight section under the cab floor off the truck, and pivoted the down pipe so it had more clearance at the firewall pad. This moves the end of the down pipe away from the firewall pad insulation. But with the exit part of the down pipe pivoted, it no longer lines up with the rear portion of the exhaust. It is off by 3 to 3-1/2" from lining up.I fooled around with it some more. It seems like the mount that is welded to the down pipe, where it slides into the transmission mount, is either too long or it is welded in the wrong place on the pipe. 2 questions 1, I am wondering what you guys have for clearance between the down pipe and the firewall pad for those of you running a 4" exhaust? 2, Has anyone else running a 4" exhaust run into this problem? I dont want to start my truck on fire and I am not comfortable with a 1/8" of clearance.Thanks!

Here are a few pictures of the honey. I don't think it is two stroke anymore, it's way to thick for two stroke looking at it more. The first pic I tipped the canister completely upside down for a few seconds just to get it to flow to the edge and it still did not flow out of the canister. The second pic, I just rotated the canister a 1/4 turn note how the honey just hangs or sticks to the side of the canister, this stuff is very thick.Last time I fueled the truck up full, was three weeks ago at a Loves truck stop outside of Denver. I noticed a green sticker on the pump that said, may contain up to 5% Bio Diesel, maybe the honey is Bio, not sure? Or maybe the Loves tank had more then 5% in it? 90% of the time I get my fuel at the local Co-op in the farm community where I live. It's the only place to get diesel in town, they move a lot of diesel though there being the only place in town, grain trucks, semis, tractors, pickups, etc the Co-op moves a lot of fuel. I now wonder if that is where I got the honey or at the Loves?I have a draw straw I am going to install with the fuel boss, so when I pull the sending unit in the next few days I will report back if I find more honey in the bottom of the tank.Thanks!

If the truck has had a new VP44 and airdog or fass or some other lift pump system recently then ask for receipts, proof is in the pudding! I dont see anything wrong with a truck with new pumps, as long as the rest of the truck checks out fine.I think the reason that most people fix the dead VP44 then sell them off right away, is the mechanic tells them to,,,, well your truck needs a VP44 and a fass (or etc) and then you better sell it while it is running. The mechanic got his money right, so why not some advice. Most people looking for a used truck would like to drive it to see what the rest of it is like first. (most was the key word) What the trans is like, what the front end is like, just a overall feel for how the truck runs and drives, how the power feels, smoke, shakes, shimmies, etc, when the VP44 is dead you can't do any of that. The seller can say anything he or she wants, but most people will look at a non-runner as a pig in a poke and there are to many unknowns. Not only that but you can't drive a dead VP44 truck home, so there is hauling or hiring a tow truck, more money, then paying a mechanic to fix it more money, and what if there is other problems, more money. So fix it and sell it while you can, as a runner as the mechanic says.I myself would buy dead VP44 truck if the rest of the truck looked "OK" and if the price was less then half of what other running VP44 trucks sell for. But most people get scared off at a non-runner. I am more of a gambler though, at times. Last fall I was looking for a truck, I looked for one with a dead VP44 could not find one. Low and behold I found a 1998.5 with a new VP44 on it, with only a few thousands miles on the VP44. Owner said he tried to sell it not running with the dead VP44, but everyone wanted it for nothing. So his mechanic told him to fix it and sell it running with a new injection pump, which he did and yes he gave me the receipts to prove when and where the work was done. Now I just need to put my new lift pump system on it to protect that new VP44. Not sure if that answers what you were looking for, but that is my opinion of it anyways.

I know that 3 oz is way less then recommend or proper mix ratio (should not even be noticeable in the system) I found a deal on these 3 oz two stroke bottles, and have been dumping one in every other fill up. So you would think it would be really well diluted in the fuel, or hardly even noticeable. I dumped in two at once one fill up, but that still is way below the recommend ratio.No the truck is not my daily driver, my daily driver is a old 1970's dodge pickup. The truck has 13 lbs fuel pressure at idle and cruising, and goes down to 9-10 when you stand on it. That is why it is not my daily driver, I only drive the 1998.5 when I go more then 1 hour away from home and I baby it then, sometimes it will sit in the driveway for a week or more at a time. I have been saving for a glacier diesel fuel boss pump to get my fuel pressure higher and also one of their fuel filter kits that completely replaces the stock canister. My canister has a few leaks and I would rather have one a with spin on filter anyways. I got the fuel boss and filter head in the mail last week started to install it today, and when taking off the canister is when I saw the honey. Once the glacier parts are on the 1998.5 will be my daily driver.The truck does have a surging problem, it mainly does it with the cruise on but I have noticed it a few times without the cruise. I was hoping the surging problem was sucking air on the leaking canister, and I am kind of hoping the surging goes away after I get all new fuel system parts on it, if sucking air is the problem. If not I was going to look into the APPS for the surging. My only thought about the honey is, that since the truck does not have the best fuel pressure right now with the stock carter set up it is not pushing the two stroke oil through the whole system? I mean, most of you guys are running 15-20 lbs F/P from what I have read. Two stroke is heavier then diesel fuel. My only thought is maybe my weaker/lower pressure stock system was not letting it get through the filter and it is just settling at the bottom? I did read on one of the other forums about a guy that also had two stroke oil settling at the bottom of his filter.I will see if I can get a picture of the honey tomorrow, I only dumped the fuel out today. The only thing I can think is it is two stroke oil.

I went to drain my fuel filter canister today, turned the drain valve nothing came out, not even a drop of fuel came out. So I pulled the canister it was full of fuel, pulled the filter out dumped the fuel out. Looked in the bottom and there is about 3/4" or so of sludge, it has the consistency or pours about like honey very thick. It's about the color of fuel. Anyone have any idea what it could be? I been running 3 oz of two stroke oil every other tank since I bought the truck. I wonder if it could be gathering in the bottom of the filter housing? I have only owned the truck since last Nov, I changed the filter the day after I bought the truck. I have not even put 6000 miles on the truck since the filter change and the housing was clean last time. This is the first filter change, wonder what the honey is?? Thanks!

Might want to ask your local Napa, when OR if they have filter sale coming up, if your wanting the BHAF Napa/Wix 2790. My local Napa has 3-4 filter sales a year. I was in there the end of last year, getting some other part. The counter guy asked if I needed any filters (FILTER SALE) sure I asked how much for a Napa/Wix 2790, he said sale is $29.00 each, at that price I grabbed two. Got a new 1 on the truck and 1 sitting on the shelf waiting.

Thanks for the all the responses and the welcomes. Good idea about getting a spare belt right away for the fuel boss. I already always carry a spare set of fuel filters, spare serpentine belt, as well as other spare parts, I have needed to use the spares in the past always better to have them them not have them when on a long road trip. dobienut, do you have any kind of a filter or strainer between the tank and your fuel boss pump? Decisions, decisions, I really hate making decisions. I just want something I can bolt on the truck and drive and not worry about it, or mess with it much. I dont mind routine maintenance, but I dont like messing with something that is supposed to fix a already existing problem. I am really leaning more towards the belt driven mechanical one right now. The thing I like about it is the more you step on the fuel the more pressure it puts out, not the less like a electric pump. The other thing I like it's mechanical. I have owned several hauler/daily driver 1st gen dodges diesel as well, and have hundreds of thousands of miles of windshield time in them combined. I have only ever replaced one lift pump on any of them and it was because it was leaking fuel not that is was putting out low fuel pressure. I know it is not fair to compare a 1st gen truck to a 2nd gen truck, but I am comparing electric lift pumps to mechanical lift pumps. I was very pleased with my AD100 I had on my 2000 dodge. I just dont like some of the things I currently read about them I know I dont like the quick connectors they switched to. I dont have anything against FASS either they look like a very high quality high end pumps as well and I am doing more reading on them still. The one thing I do like about the AD or the FASS higher end systems with the spin on filters is the air separation on them, I noticed a big difference on my 2000 right away in throttle response and smoother idling once I put the AD on it. That is one thing the mechanical pumps dont offer. The Opie, Assassin and Fuel Boss from Glacier all seem to be along the same concept and similar designs. I dont really see anything that set any of those three apart. I think I am going to call Glacier since I see that they also sell Airdog's and see if they have more happy customers with the AD's or the Fuel Boss? Or which they seem to have more call backs on. I am looking more for long life and reliability then anything. Thanks, Matt

Hello, new member, 1st post. Long time dodge CTD owner. Have lurked on many of the Diesel forums but never joined one. This one seems more laid back and relaxed then some I read info on. I just picked up my 3rd 24v 2nd gen truck a few weeks ago. It's a stone stock 98.5 24v, just had a reman IP pump put on it less then 4,000 miles before I bought it. I bought a 1999 brand new in the fall of 1998, I could write a novel about that trucks healthy appetite for lift & IP pumps and my experiences with cummins and dodge about it. But that is not a new story. No one had an aftermarket fix for those trucks back in the day when they were brand new, like a AD/Fass. I sold my 1999 when it was less then two years old B/C of the problems and went back to driving my old dependable roughing riding 1st gen dodge CTD. Fast forward to 2007. I caught wind of Fass/AD systems as a good fix for 2nd gen 24v trucks and did lots of reading on the subject. I was longing to get back into the cushy seats and smooth ride of a 2nd gen after a few hundred thousand more miles in my old 1st gen. I found a good deal on a 2000 that just had a new IP put on it, I put a AD 100 on the truck the day I bought it. Other than the perpendicular bracket that broke twice, right at the weld (to much deflection IMO) I had no complaints about the AD 100. They sent me the bracket that runs the pump parallel to the frame and was a lot more solid and never had the problem again. Truck always had good fuel pressure and never had one fuel issue with the pump. I owned that 2000 for 4 years and put just over 200,000 trouble free miles on it thanks to the AD 100. The 1998.5 I just picked up, I was originally going to put another AD 100 or maybe the 165 (kind of like the regulator idea) on it and be done with it. I put a fuel pressure gauge on the truck and it has just over 13 lbs @ idle and gets down to 9-10 ish when you stand on it. Something needs to be done soon. I have been reading about a lot of problems with the AD's now and since a change in ownership the quality has gone down hill. It does not sound like they are what they once were back in 2007 when I put the AD 100 on my 2000. I came across a thread pertaining to Glacier Diesel Fuel Boss belt driven mechanical pump. They have me very intrigued. I've read several threads about them, don't really see any cons about them, seems to be only pros. The only thing that concerns me is where they are mounted. I live on a gravel road and do quite a bit of gravel back road driving. I'm kind of concerned that dirt or debris might get up in there and chew up the belt. Maybe there is some type of shield that could be built from an old heavy rubber mud flap to lessen the chances of damage from stones and dirt? That is really my only concern about the pump. I sometimes go on long road trips and get to far away places where there is no cell phone reception. I don't want to have a breakdown, been there, did that when I had my 1999 one to many times. I always had faith in my AirDog and was 100 percent comfortable going anywhere, but my faith is now wavering. I do like the lifetime warranty on the AD vs the warranty on the Fuel Boss. But I dont want to messing with replacements on the AD if/when it goes down either even if they are covered under warranty. I only want to buy one lift pump system, I am really leaning towards the Fuel Boss right now. Long story short, what would you recommend? The Fuel Boss or the AirDog for reliability and longevity? I pretty much keep my trucks stone stock, and like to put miles on them. I like to either put on a 4" exhaust or a straight pipe stock exhaust. My last truck had a Icebox cold air intake but with this one I am going to do the BHAF. Sounds like the Fuel Boss can keep up with the fuel demands of either stock or mild to wild. So I guess it doesn't really matter if I want to bomb the truck out or not. I'd be very interested to hear your thoughts and opinions. Thank you for your time. Matt