2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

LINK TO THE VIDEO Hey everyone, sorry for the long read but please God read it and help me!! I've been dealing with a persistent and frustrating issue on my truck for years, and it's seriously driving me crazy. As a mechanic, it really eats at me that I haven’t been able to solve it. I'm absolutely racking my brain here, and I'm hoping someone can offer some insight I haven’t considered. The Problem:My truck has a terrible knock at idle that’s so harsh it literally shakes the inside of the cab. It’s loud and clearly audible, especially in person. The knock doesn’t seem to increase with RPM—it’s primarily noticeable at idle—but it does affect the exhaust note, making it s…

Howdy folks, TLDR: Faulty ecm runs lift pump without starter bump. also DieselACS out of Hileah FL is a super good company to deal with for ECM issue. I am here to report an interesting finding of a failing ECM that I had not seen here or anywhere before. First and foremost, I was dealing with the dreaded WTS delay, and it finally got to about 8 seconds or more before it kicked on, so I bit the bullet and ordered a exchange ECM from DieselACS out of Hileah FL https://www.dieselacs.com The service was friendly, and the shipping was extremely fast. Ordered Friday, and at my door tuesday morning. I replaced the ECM, and this is where I realized my old ECM failed in 2 …

Hello, I have a 2002 Dodge 2500, 5.9L 24V Cummins that’s been down for months & so far is stumping me. It has Auto trans, 4WD, & about 190k miles. As far as I know it’s all stock except for a FASS DDRP fuel pump. This is a long one, but any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Truck was running fine & then died. Cranks (spins good), but no start. First thing noticed was fuel pump not running. Then also saw gauges are not working, no wait to start light, & odometer flashes a few times then displays “NO BUS”. It will connect but not communicate with a scan tool. It either displays no communication from module or circuit open (from the airbag mod…

2nd Gen diesel trucks come with (2) Group 27 top post batteries from OEM. My 27’s at the time were 750 CCA.They work fine for most of our truck’s service life but if your like me and have a few extra electrical loads then moving up to commercial Group 31’s is an ideal modification. There is an article here about modifying the plastic OEM trays to accept 31’s but in my case after 25 years and weathering & fear of cracking I just wanted a new hassle free setup. The only company (so far) offering this is LRB Speed. They made them for the early 2nd gens (94-98.5) and they weren’t tested in the later ones. I rolled the dice and found they work fine with only minimum modi…

I just ordered a replacement alternator "Pure Power" from Tusconalternator.com . This is a 240A alternator and the web site recommended an upgraded wire kit. Long story short they recommend running an additional + cable from the alternator to the positive battery terminal while leaving the existing cable to the alt fuse in place. What do you guys think of this idea? I don't think I'll ever be pushing anything close to 240A, I was really just looking for a bit more output than stock at idle. The only significant additional electrical load I have at the moment is the connection to my truck camper which typically pulls 10-20A and is fused at 50A. What are the odds t…

I have read that it is very easy to replace the rotors on our trucks. The rotor is suppose to just slide on. Mine doesn't, it is held on by the nut and the stud assembly. Any one have any idea as to what the set up is for my rig? Is this from a 1 ton?

I’ve been killing some gremlins in my truck lately and this is the last one. I’ve had the 3 horn honk when unlocking the door with my fob for the last 15 years that I solved by wrapping the ctm in foil tape…this blows my mind. $6 from Home Depot. Unbelievable. The last is my driver side seatbelt latch switch is i think the issue. The dash light stays on but if I wiggle the latch just right it stays off. I think the switch contacts inside is worn out. Has anyone found a seatbelt latch that’ll work (they’re discontinued) or is the switch serviceable?

I can say engine oil temperature will show timing. Ive managed to keep Beast with oil temperature below 180°F even with coolant temperature ranging 197 to 210°F. Simply put if your timing is off oil temperature will rise to coolant level or higher. Now if I look back at all this time on DAP 150HP 7x0.010 injectors popped at 320 bar. Im at 504k miles and still got 6 to 7% engine load at idle. Now understanding even more about tuning. This works for Beast because of the wear on the injectors. As your injectors wear they start popping early as the spring tension loosens up. There is no way to build a tune and not have to retune over from weather change, wear on the injec…

The purpose of this thread, at least in its infancy, is to document what is happening and my plans of action to fix it. I feel like its a 'rare' problem (in that I cant find another thread with the exact same issue), it is certainly unique! As of the day of this rambling, the truck is just under 114k miles. 2001 2500, auto, stock, 4x4, loaded, etc.. Previously I had a thread wherein my grandpa still owned the truck and he was having the usual TC/OD issues. Never really did figure out what was causing that as the descriptions I had to work with were challenging at best, but I did the TPS signal wire TEE mod earlier this year, or whatever its called, from the TPS directly…

A major short between the ears caused me to lose the majority of my coolant on my drive this morning. I pulled over after seeing mist coming from under the hood. Upper radiator hose was disconnected. My temperature gauge was reading just above the upper line on the sweep but not yet to the red. Engine sounded and performed fine up to me shutting it down. I added about 2 gallons of water back into the radiator and reconnected the hose and finished the trip without issue. Oil on the dipstick didn't look contaminated. I'm hopeful my engine survived my mistake with no ill effects. Is there anything on it that I should check at this point?

Hi All, Dreaded issue I'm sure everyone has heard about. I am hours in to diagnosis and unsure if I am even on the correct track. Please excuse any ignorance or missed steps, I am doing the best I can with the limited skills I have. Backstory - Truck sat idle for a few years. Runs great. Tachometer is the only gauge that works. I have the "Wait to Start" light. PCM was sent out and rebuilt, signs of over-voltage. New alternator was put in, and the in line fuse protection from this forum was installed. Went to start the truck and I briefly saw the fuel gauge work with key on power. Grabbed a new battery as the old wasn't enough to crank and I am back to the original is…

I read an article here about modifying our existing battery trays to accommodate 31’s. I pondered it but I decided to go another, more expensive route for some reason. LRB Speed makes “put together yourself” aluminum ones for $400. I run 925 CCA Detroit Diesel batteries (from my work) and I’m pretty happy. They’re made well and even a proper spot for the temp sensor on the driver side tray. I had to relocate my horns but other then that they fit and lined up great. With my Nations 180 amp alternator I feel it’s a good combo. My old 27’s were 750 CCA if I remember correctly. This will help with running my Webasto coolant heater I have as well running in cold mornings. E…

Hi there - Several different issues just started, and I'm not sure how to begin addressing these. Hoping that folks with a good understanding of the 24V can help sift through the symptoms and see to the core of the problems. Looking for help organizing and figuring out if there is an underlying root problem that's causing the other issues. Vehicle: 2001 Ram 2500, 5.9L High Output Cummins, 4x4, 292K miles. I only have about 3k miles on it myself since I bought it. Don't have a great idea of what was done to it before. As far as I can tell, the engine and powertrain are in a stock configuration. History: Until January of this year, it was always quick to start with mini…

I have always had a manual on all of my 2nd gen cummins trucks, mainly due to the obvious reason's we all know with dodge transmissions, to include failure, reliability, strength, and PRICE (auto), especially when you add any power to it. So now I am trying to do a crash course on auto transmission in 2nd gens cause I am clueless on everything/anything with them. Man this is making me feel so dumb... Gonna be trying to learn about lockup, torque converter stall, billet this and billet that, what auto parts, auto computers or tuners?, etc... I am so so so tempted to put a nv4500 in this build, just for the availability and strength! Please reference 24v 1500 Cummins Thr…

Yup after all the years and miles driven I've had a bad speaker on the passenger side. @Tweety Bird said, "Get this fixed! Time to get new speakers in Beast!" @Tweety Bird and I went to a stereo shop in Lewiston ID to look at speakers and prices. Great quality is really pricey say like $350 for a pair of speakers that really sound rich in frequency. Being budget mined I jumped over to Amazon and found. Kicker Dodge Ram Truck 1994-2011 Speaker Bundle - CS 6x9 coaxial Speakers, and CS 5.25" coaxial Speakers. Yeah Dodge and there strange wiring schemes. I'll list out the positive and negative wiring for each speaker. You can see I cut the factory OEM speaker plug off and…

Need some help. I have an issue with my truck where it will progressively hiccup then stall. Truck is a 99' 2500 auto 4wd shortbed If I start the truck and change to gear, after 4 minutes truck will start hiccupping and it will hiccup in intervals of exactly 5.4 seconds where they progressively get worse. After about a dozen or so it's bad enough that it's able to stall. If I start and stay in idle, wait 5 minutes, change to gear, it will immediately stall. The predictability is truck start -> 5 minutes pass -> will stall. However: I can circumvent it by applying and holding throttle for about 5-10 seconds. If I do this before, during, or after that hiccupping …

Hello, I am new here. my son bought a O2 24 valve Cummins a number of months ago without knowing much about it history. We've been trying to figure out what's going on with this ghost revving. Without touching the gas pedal after you start it it'll start quickly jumping up to higher RPMs sometimes getting a little scary and staying there. It worried us enough to where we brought it to our local mechanic.. he had it for over a month flushed all the fluids and did some other maintenance, but ultimately couldn't figure out the main problem we brought it in for. I've had it back home for a couple weeks and I have ordered and installed a new genco alternator., installed a new…

So.. if you haven't checked it out... do... Android and Apple... That being said, do the fuel lanes for semi's have DIFFERENT diesel than the auto lanes? I've been using the APP and filling up at the SEMI lanes but have lost about 3mpg when I do... SEMI lanes gets me 15 mpg and auto lanes get me 18ish MPG.... WHERE I get the fuel is the only difference.. Comments?

2000 2500 Dana 80 rear axle. What should my pinion bearing preload measure with tires and brake drums removed. I forgot to measure it before taking it apart.

Good afternoon, I put a titanium fass lift pump along with a Fleece sureflo sending unit on my 2001 pickup about a year and a half ago. It’s been flawless for a few thousand miles. I had been noticing some slow starts when warm. Not bad just a few more revolutions than what was normal. I put some NAPA cross referenced fuel filters on because I didn’t have FASS replacements and didn’t have the time to wait . I started to take a trip recently and fuel pressure dropped significantly. I got the truck home and parked it for a month . I wasn’t real confident about the NAPA filters so i replaced with the direct replacement FASS filters. Test drove the truck for an hour or so and…