2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey! So now that my truck is running great, I decided to buy a new quadzilla module since my last one was killed by me (jumped the truck off with it plugged in). Once I got the new one installed I tried to connect to the app and I can't find the BT device (I'm on android). I tested power at the red/white wire. Yep, 12v there. I found that NONE of the wires going from the module to the iquad do NOT have any voltage. Is this normal? I would guess that at least ONE of the wires would have to have voltage.

Delivery valve modification,I know at one point they were sold years ago and would like to do it to my trucks. Anyone have some info on it?

Was pulling my car trailer the other day (empty) when I got into the throttle just a little to get across the intersection, the rear yoke decided it'd had enough. So, does anyone have any suggestion on a good strong yoke? Does anyone make a yoke that uses u-bolts instead of straps? I have changed the front over to u-bolts but haven't found one for the rear. Dana 80 axle in 2000 ram 2500 L6 5 speed.

What is a good EPA or CARB certified tuner? Utah has changed some laws and the Adrenaline is no longer legal in my county.🤬 How are the Smarty tuners? Do they have any timing adjustment capabilities? Any experience with Edge Juice w/Attitude? Any suggestions are appreciated. Also, wasn't there somewhere to sell items on here? Anybody looking for an Adrenaline w/IQuad?

Back during my Lewiston trip, I had the Check Engine light pop on. Yeah, I know the secret key trick only the 2002 can do. So I ran the codes and had a P0341 code for the Cam Sensor. The next day I ran out to get some other stuff and picked up the cam sensor. NAPA number CSS712. Fast forward in time, the truck stuttered again, looked down, and there was the sensor in the transfer case boot. Tools required8mm 6-sided socket (1/4" drive) short well 1/4" extensions about 9 inches 1/4" ratchet Electrical tape Cam sensor What to do!Set up the socket, extensions, and the ratchet. Remove the one 8mm bolt holding the sensor. It's tight, but you can get a hand under the socket t…

I’ll start as simple as i can, we can expand as this thread goes on. Basically, i am familiar with the AC interference issue and have “fixed” that by following the WT tutorial. I rebuilt the transmission myself a few years ago and can’t completely rule out a valve body issue. I think a piece of debris could have made its way into the TCC plunger somehow and scored the bore it rides in, and when I rebuilt it i reused the same oil pump and valve body and torque converter. This problem didn’t show up right away and instead took a while to start happening. Ive got a quadzilla installed in the truck currently. Im experiencing a weird intermittent problem. It manifests thro…

I’ve been killing some gremlins in my truck lately and this is the last one. I’ve had the 3 horn honk when unlocking the door with my fob for the last 15 years that I solved by wrapping the ctm in foil tape…this blows my mind. $6 from Home Depot. Unbelievable. The last is my driver side seatbelt latch switch is i think the issue. The dash light stays on but if I wiggle the latch just right it stays off. I think the switch contacts inside is worn out. Has anyone found a seatbelt latch that’ll work (they’re discontinued) or is the switch serviceable?

LINK TO THE VIDEO Hey everyone, sorry for the long read but please God read it and help me!! I've been dealing with a persistent and frustrating issue on my truck for years, and it's seriously driving me crazy. As a mechanic, it really eats at me that I haven’t been able to solve it. I'm absolutely racking my brain here, and I'm hoping someone can offer some insight I haven’t considered. The Problem:My truck has a terrible knock at idle that’s so harsh it literally shakes the inside of the cab. It’s loud and clearly audible, especially in person. The knock doesn’t seem to increase with RPM—it’s primarily noticeable at idle—but it does affect the exhaust note, making it s…

Howdy folks, TLDR: Faulty ecm runs lift pump without starter bump. also DieselACS out of Hileah FL is a super good company to deal with for ECM issue. I am here to report an interesting finding of a failing ECM that I had not seen here or anywhere before. First and foremost, I was dealing with the dreaded WTS delay, and it finally got to about 8 seconds or more before it kicked on, so I bit the bullet and ordered a exchange ECM from DieselACS out of Hileah FL https://www.dieselacs.com The service was friendly, and the shipping was extremely fast. Ordered Friday, and at my door tuesday morning. I replaced the ECM, and this is where I realized my old ECM failed in 2 …

Hello, I have a 2002 Dodge 2500, 5.9L 24V Cummins that’s been down for months & so far is stumping me. It has Auto trans, 4WD, & about 190k miles. As far as I know it’s all stock except for a FASS DDRP fuel pump. This is a long one, but any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Truck was running fine & then died. Cranks (spins good), but no start. First thing noticed was fuel pump not running. Then also saw gauges are not working, no wait to start light, & odometer flashes a few times then displays “NO BUS”. It will connect but not communicate with a scan tool. It either displays no communication from module or circuit open (from the airbag mod…

2nd Gen diesel trucks come with (2) Group 27 top post batteries from OEM. My 27’s at the time were 750 CCA.They work fine for most of our truck’s service life but if your like me and have a few extra electrical loads then moving up to commercial Group 31’s is an ideal modification. There is an article here about modifying the plastic OEM trays to accept 31’s but in my case after 25 years and weathering & fear of cracking I just wanted a new hassle free setup. The only company (so far) offering this is LRB Speed. They made them for the early 2nd gens (94-98.5) and they weren’t tested in the later ones. I rolled the dice and found they work fine with only minimum modi…

I just ordered a replacement alternator "Pure Power" from Tusconalternator.com . This is a 240A alternator and the web site recommended an upgraded wire kit. Long story short they recommend running an additional + cable from the alternator to the positive battery terminal while leaving the existing cable to the alt fuse in place. What do you guys think of this idea? I don't think I'll ever be pushing anything close to 240A, I was really just looking for a bit more output than stock at idle. The only significant additional electrical load I have at the moment is the connection to my truck camper which typically pulls 10-20A and is fused at 50A. What are the odds t…

I have read that it is very easy to replace the rotors on our trucks. The rotor is suppose to just slide on. Mine doesn't, it is held on by the nut and the stud assembly. Any one have any idea as to what the set up is for my rig? Is this from a 1 ton?

I can say engine oil temperature will show timing. Ive managed to keep Beast with oil temperature below 180°F even with coolant temperature ranging 197 to 210°F. Simply put if your timing is off oil temperature will rise to coolant level or higher. Now if I look back at all this time on DAP 150HP 7x0.010 injectors popped at 320 bar. Im at 504k miles and still got 6 to 7% engine load at idle. Now understanding even more about tuning. This works for Beast because of the wear on the injectors. As your injectors wear they start popping early as the spring tension loosens up. There is no way to build a tune and not have to retune over from weather change, wear on the injec…

The purpose of this thread, at least in its infancy, is to document what is happening and my plans of action to fix it. I feel like its a 'rare' problem (in that I cant find another thread with the exact same issue), it is certainly unique! As of the day of this rambling, the truck is just under 114k miles. 2001 2500, auto, stock, 4x4, loaded, etc.. Previously I had a thread wherein my grandpa still owned the truck and he was having the usual TC/OD issues. Never really did figure out what was causing that as the descriptions I had to work with were challenging at best, but I did the TPS signal wire TEE mod earlier this year, or whatever its called, from the TPS directly…

A major short between the ears caused me to lose the majority of my coolant on my drive this morning. I pulled over after seeing mist coming from under the hood. Upper radiator hose was disconnected. My temperature gauge was reading just above the upper line on the sweep but not yet to the red. Engine sounded and performed fine up to me shutting it down. I added about 2 gallons of water back into the radiator and reconnected the hose and finished the trip without issue. Oil on the dipstick didn't look contaminated. I'm hopeful my engine survived my mistake with no ill effects. Is there anything on it that I should check at this point?

Hi All, Dreaded issue I'm sure everyone has heard about. I am hours in to diagnosis and unsure if I am even on the correct track. Please excuse any ignorance or missed steps, I am doing the best I can with the limited skills I have. Backstory - Truck sat idle for a few years. Runs great. Tachometer is the only gauge that works. I have the "Wait to Start" light. PCM was sent out and rebuilt, signs of over-voltage. New alternator was put in, and the in line fuse protection from this forum was installed. Went to start the truck and I briefly saw the fuel gauge work with key on power. Grabbed a new battery as the old wasn't enough to crank and I am back to the original is…

I read an article here about modifying our existing battery trays to accommodate 31’s. I pondered it but I decided to go another, more expensive route for some reason. LRB Speed makes “put together yourself” aluminum ones for $400. I run 925 CCA Detroit Diesel batteries (from my work) and I’m pretty happy. They’re made well and even a proper spot for the temp sensor on the driver side tray. I had to relocate my horns but other then that they fit and lined up great. With my Nations 180 amp alternator I feel it’s a good combo. My old 27’s were 750 CCA if I remember correctly. This will help with running my Webasto coolant heater I have as well running in cold mornings. E…

Hi there - Several different issues just started, and I'm not sure how to begin addressing these. Hoping that folks with a good understanding of the 24V can help sift through the symptoms and see to the core of the problems. Looking for help organizing and figuring out if there is an underlying root problem that's causing the other issues. Vehicle: 2001 Ram 2500, 5.9L High Output Cummins, 4x4, 292K miles. I only have about 3k miles on it myself since I bought it. Don't have a great idea of what was done to it before. As far as I can tell, the engine and powertrain are in a stock configuration. History: Until January of this year, it was always quick to start with mini…

I have always had a manual on all of my 2nd gen cummins trucks, mainly due to the obvious reason's we all know with dodge transmissions, to include failure, reliability, strength, and PRICE (auto), especially when you add any power to it. So now I am trying to do a crash course on auto transmission in 2nd gens cause I am clueless on everything/anything with them. Man this is making me feel so dumb... Gonna be trying to learn about lockup, torque converter stall, billet this and billet that, what auto parts, auto computers or tuners?, etc... I am so so so tempted to put a nv4500 in this build, just for the availability and strength! Please reference 24v 1500 Cummins Thr…