greenfun2

My truck has a Fleece SureFlo sending unit, FASS Titanium Signature Series 100G lift pump with Wix filters on it, 1/2in line from the sending unit to the injection pump (still using the factory filter canister), 3/8 return line from the T to the tank. If the truck has been sitting for a while (couple days), it'll start fine. The longer you drive it, the harder it is to restart after you stop. If you drive it a couple hours and stop for gas, you might need to bleed the #3 injector to get it to restart. It does not seem to have any problems once it's running, just trying to get it started again. It did the same thing (and left my partner stranded at the same gas station...) about a year ago and that's when I installed the new sending unit and return line, and rebuilt the return T while the truck was down. That seemed to fix the problem until now. I did a bucket test with the suction and lift pump return lines both in a bucket and saw no air, and repeated the test with the suction line reconnected to the tank and just the pump return running into a bucket and saw no air. So I don't think the problem is with the tank/sending unit/lift pump/suction lines. What is the next thing I should check?

Does the 50 SAE fluid work with either brass and lined synchronizers? Do you have a preference when replacing them?

Do you know what would happen if you try to shift into the now-missing 5th? Could anything bad happen?

I put a reman NV4500 in about 3 years ago. It started popping out 5th when letting off, so I removed the tail housing to see what broke. The countershaft 5th gear had alot of play, and the countershaft is grooved really bad where the bearing was sitting. So I need at least a new countershaft. But here's my question: I really need to use the truck before I'll be able to rebuild the transmission. So can I put it back together without the countershaft 5th gear, synchronizer assembly, and shift fork and just run it as a 4 speed for a while? I'm going to measure the end play in the main and countershafts, but they seem ok at first glance.

I talked to DAP on the phone this morning and explained my problem. Mitchell said he'd get back to me and he actually did. I pulled the pump this evening and will ship it back for warranty for.

It is. I have a Vulcan big line kit between the factory fuel filter and the VP44, and the pressure sensor is in that line. I put a mechanical gauge on and it was steady. I'll reach out to DAP in the morning and see what they say.

I don't have a tuner. New PSG. I bought this one: https://www.dieselautopower.com/bosch-027-vp44-fuel-injection-pump-standard-output-235hp-wire-tap-voids-2-year-warranty-vp44027

My truck recently started having a intermittent loss of power, usually before the engine warms up. It also seems to be easier to stall while backing up a hill with a trailer. The check engine light never came on, but it did throw a P0216 and P0602 code. The first time I cleared the codes, there was an episode of intermittent power loss and both codes came back. The 2nd time I cleared the codes there was no power loss, and only the P0216 code came back. The truck is a 2001 5 speed. I replaced the VP-44 last year with a DAP pump and added a FASS lift pump. I currently have 15-17psi fuel pressure. The alternator is about a year old, and is a 160 amp from a Durango. I checked for AC noise and it was bouncing between 0.02 and 0.06 VAC measured between the alternator charging post and the battery ground post. One thing that I did notice that I don't understand is that my OBDLink is saying the MAP is reading ~2 atm and the boost is ~ 1 atm with the engine off, and while driving the MAP reading wont go above 75.0 inHG and the boost wont go above 22.3 psi. I got a new MAP sensor from Napa and it showed the same the reading with engine off. I didn't actually install it and drive with the new MAP sensor, because someone switched the MAP and IAT sensors around so I couldn't get my socket on the MAP sensor with it being back by the fuel return line. I just plugged the new one into the harness and turned the key on. Does this point to an issue with the ECM, or is my OBDLink reading it wrong? Since the P0216 comes back, should I reach out to DAP about warrantying the VP-44? EDIT: Made the pictures smaller.