Lund1990

I believe it's just that the plastic got weak. I'm fairly sure that I've got it adjusted correctly according to South bend's instructions. I've heard the Valair dual disc's are very quiet, especially compared to south bend. Would you say yours are quiet?

Pictured is the bracket they sent, and how or installs on master cylinder. I had to pound the studs out of the factory bracket and they supplied threaded rod, external tooth washers and nuts to hold both brackets together. @Mopar1973Man are the aluminum hydraulics you have oversized? This is a south bend HYDx1.50. I have a stage 6 dual disc clutch so the oversized hydraulics make pushing the clutch so much easier than a stock set up.

Had the 3 locking tabs on my south bend hyd 1.5 break off yesterday. 2nd one its happens to. I contacted them and they are going to send a "repair bracket" which i guess pinches the master cylinder between the 2 brackets. Does anyone have a part number or link where else I could get this, need one for another truck

I've gotten it back on the road. Robbed the yoke off my 98 that has a cracked block. Oddly enough I just bought another 98 1500 two days ago cause the body is in damn decent shape. Body swap to my 2000 that this yoke blew apart on.

Off of what? I was wanting to go to a ubolt style but couldn't find one. Have part numbers by chance?

Hopefully it works out right. I hammered a new nut on with my impact, then loosened it until the rotating torque was 17 ft lbs with no tires or drums. Old bearings.

2000 2500 Dana 80 rear axle. What should my pinion bearing preload measure with tires and brake drums removed. I forgot to measure it before taking it apart.

If swapped to a p-pump, I'm really not sure what else there would be going on with it for it to be too much. If you p-pump it, its my understanding that you really have no reason to even have all the sensors n such that aren't on a 12v. Maybe I'm wrong.

Great. Thanks for the prompt response.

So my insulation between my tappet cover and ecm was completely shot. I'd there a real need to replace this?

Thank you. Knowing the reason behind it, I don't need to install one anyways. I've done the vent tube knob because of the oil. But then other stuff starting leaking oil shortly after. Hoping im getting most of it now.

I've seen that some of the tappet covers have a breather on them. Mine has a little box the sticks out near the back, with a plate there on the inside. No clue on the purpose of that. But just wondering if there would be any reason to add a breather there like some have

I'll check more deeply there than i have so far. I've been a member of both more quite a bit. Thank you.

Any idea what could be the problem with mine suddenly? Drove fine in the morning. Went to leave for work that evening and it won't move in any gear. Changed the governor pressure solenoid and sensor to no avail

I'm in southern MN, we also see temps like that regularly. my other 2 are manuals, but the family fits in this one. The biggest reason I'd like to keep this truck an auto is because its meant to be the camper hauler. Some of the campgrounds its just way easier backing in with an automatic. That being said, when i got in to go to work one day the truck just wouldn't move at all anymore. Changed the governor pressure solenoid and sensor to no avail. i'm not sure what to check further, haven't taken the time to research it. thinking of just pulling the trans and rebuilding it in my basement, possibly swap it to a full manual valve body.