PilotHouse2500

cool that is the one I linked from Amazon.

Looking to pick up a good barring tool to work on my 12 valve. Reading reviews just frustrates me and I don't want to waste $40 on cheap junk. Who is the vendor of your choice for this essential tool? Two I was looking at: https://www.amazon.com/gp/cart/view.html?ref_=nav_cart https://www.genosgarage.com/product/tool-ltbt/tools

On Friday I ordered the NV4500 tans! 2-3 weeks for delivery....sadly they don't take an auto as a core anymore. So now I have an auto with under 10k miles on a rebuild, but no documentation since my buddies wife tossed all the paperwork on the rebuild years ago...sigh..

G56 off the table, NV4500 is the choice. Now to get the "extreme" version or the standard?

Money comes in Saturday! Salivating over the trans swap coming! Any final thoughts (prayers accepted) on this? Still kinda debating the G56 vs the NV4500 swap, but cost might drive me to the NV4500 regardless.

Good news is I've decided on a few things and I'm in the midst of a huge kitchen project that will actually let me get the trans bought. I'll be moving the engine back 2-3" to use the stock CAC and buying an aftermarket RAD with electric fans to get things stuffed up front where they belong. I also plan on taking the summer off woodworking so I can get some headway going on this project. SO hopefully come mid May this thread will get more updates than it has in the last year.

Think I have decided to push the engine back 2" to keep things relatively easy. New motor mounts and such are a lot less fiddling around then dealing with creating all new plumbing.

Getting the money together to finally get the manual trans for the project. I know a NV4500 is a pretty easy swap out as it was stock, and I've been in contacts with high-impact.net for the parts. I know the NV5600 entails a bit more of a challenge (a poster had a link to a thread of someone else's swap) so that CAN be done. But I was wondering if anyone has grafted a G56 to a 12 valve 6bt?

sitting on the racking outside the shop waiting for you to pick it up!

oops Oregon not Washington, still want to see if I can hook you two up?

Actually had to cut the frame off to make things fit w/in the front clip of the 50's body. I have to center the wheels on the fenders and that drives where things land. Moving axles and such would be a little to invasive for my level of comfort for a daily driver. Thanks for the inputs. I'm leaning towards leaving the engine where it sits (simplifies a bunch: motor mounts, tanny x-member & mount, axle lengths, etc). I don't plan on pushing him too hard, but I think just going a cross over tube route might just bite me later so I think I'll do a CAC of some sort just in case. I've got room in the fenders to put something.

NICE project, I have a '51 COE after I finish my current build (likely a 6bt repower project). Do you happen to know a "Brent" in WA that is into the bigger old Dodge trucks? I'm sure you two would get along great.

I'm progressing on my streetrod build and am running into space constraints with where the engine sits relative to the 1950's body. I know I CAN move the engine back with new engine and tranny mounts, but would prefer to not go that route. I've already decided to use a different RAD with electric fans in place of the stock fan for space, but need more if I want to not move the power plant. I've got 4" to work with. So a few questions for the great minds than mine leaving the power plant in place and having room for the RAD and AC condenser up front where they belong: 1. I could forego the stock CAC and do a liquid/air cooler and tuck that up under a fender. 2. Drop the CAC all together and just do a crossover tube. Thoughts please?

my shop man door awning (1950 Dodge hood w/ ornament)