PilotHouse2500

On review I'm going to pass on the industrial to road conversion. Lots of work (read cash) to convert since many things are designed specifically around a genset vs. a vehicle. Not even the block PN's are the same between the two versions. Oh well. likely could have gotten it for under $1k with low hours...

So I have an opportunity to purchase a Cummins QSB7 industrial engine (from a gen set) for a decent price if the auction doesn't blow up fast. Question is this: can this be used as a swap into a vehicle? What would it take?

been a while...life has again gotten in the way. I hope to spend more hours this winter on the project. removed the cab (glad I figured out this EASY way vs. what I was originally thinking) and gave the frame a degreasing power wash...now at least I won't be full of it head to toe when I work in him.

Torched the springs to get the chassis to sit right (bunch of parts missing that would weigh enough to compress the front suspension). And then the cab mounts got put in. Even with the shop at a "cool" 75°, outside hit near 100° yesterday, it wasn't all that comfortable with the humidity so high, then ad the torch and welding heat!

ok thanks gang, plans this weekend to torch the springs and get the cab mounts welded in. Pics to follow on the build thread.

2500 or 3500 series? if anyone else has a minute or two to measure the upper control arm bolt to the ground I'd appreciate. I'm hoping for a few more to confirm that difference between the front and back pivots points. Thanks (so far) to dripley, 01cummins4eve, BBHD

hmmm some serious differences relative Control arm differences in heights between bolts: one instance is straight up 2", the other 3.25"... pivot link different by 1/2" Pitman approx 1" different. not the consistancy I was hoping for. BBHD, yours is a 4x4 with 6bt?

so to confirm, it seem the control arm measurements say there should be about a 2" difference in height between the two bolts, correct?

Well, the 94 is almost stripped down to nothing, Gotta pull the trany and driveshafts yet for me (trany for core exchange). Then it's pull the axles off for sale and chop the frame up for scrap. Body parts go to the scrap yard tomorrow.

thanks guys, from what I can tell I need to bring the front end down 2". Weekends are never long enough, but when a buddy is in state for a funeral you hang out with the crazy Californian and take him for a ride in your restoration and let him drive!

Thanks! Hoping for a few more from people to get a feel of what averages out as "normal". 1 or 2 more please!

tire size is relative. the measurement at the pivot on the passenger tire will set the reference height so I can adjust the other 3 for what tires I have on the frame. Thanks guys. Hoping to get this adjusted this weekend!

ANYONE?

OK guys need a little help here. Was looking at the body tongiht and getting it lined up when we thought about not having all the all weight on the frame will shift the suspension a bit relative to the frame due to the linkage pivot points. This would explain why some things didn't line up as expected. So I am looking for the following measurements from someone with either a 2500 or 3500 frame/suspension set up (6bt engine and manual tranny if possible!). Please note back where the measurement was taken from to the ground (center of bolt, top/bottom of bolt, joint between members, etc) something I can use as a solid reference. I plan on torching the springs to get it to sit where it should (putting bags in instead on the build). Thanks in advance! Note where the fingers are (should be 4 measurements). 2 pivot bolts on the arm, the pivot on the pitman and the pivot at the passenger wheel