Dieselfuture

It's too bad this place closed down or at least it says that on line https://www.google.com/search?q=North+American+turbo&oq=North+American+turbo&aqs=chrome..69i57j46i175i199i512j0i512j0i22i30l2.1528j0j7&client=ms-android-google&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8 I'm happy with the turbo I got from them for $800 62/67/12 still able to use exhaust break with 5 bolt flange. I'm keeping it at low 40 psi on max setting to stay safe, and most of the time I don't really get over 30. Maybe someone else can build something similar for you, unless you going to put in a bigger turbo and then get an in line EB which would probably cost more then just building a turbo for 800 and using what you already have.

I just got this one has mesh inside too just in case. https://www.amazon.com/Baldwin-PA2820-Air-Element/dp/B001JQTI2K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Baldwin+PA2820&qid=1632406475&sr=8-3 For next time I change a filter which may be few years down the road, but as things are starting to get a bit hard to come by I figured it can sit on the shelf for a while.

Which ones would you get if you had to, I looked at rockauto they have 3 choices, seems skp do 3° maybe there's better brand out there I need to do mine at some point. Highly doubtful I'll get my factory ones freed up.

If you're keeping your truck for a long time then get https://retroshop.us/products/2g-ram-hid-projector-retrofitted-headlights retrofits and don't think. Otherwise have fun trying things out. You can retrofit yourself if you got time to save few bucks. https://www.theretrofitsource.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwkbuKBhDRARIsAALysV7wHF4bqvFCVNuSohpKEOd7aTcOdfqVP7himtVD-i6xsYepsHZPjxYaAlvMEALw_wcB D2S is what I'd go with

Need a hole in exhaust manifold next to the egt probe if you have one, before the turbo. Some go 1/8 some go 1/4 supposedly 1/4 doesn't plug as fast, some put filters in too. Then pick copper, ss, break line etc for tubing to cool the line before you connect to plastic that goes in the cab. May need something to dampen exhaust pulses, like snubber or needle valve. Look at Manton pushrods site for valve train stuff.

@Concreter you may have a wrong seal. My truck takes this one https://www.danaaftermarket.com/spicer-automotive/automotive-axle/seals/part/differential-pinion-seal/50563?cat1=312&cat2=386&cp=0&catalog=PIMS_NA&partType=PART Spicer 50563

Can you elaborate on the kiss thing, you mentioned it few times now and it's starting to bug me

I've always used air gun if need more torque then I use 3/4 one, with crush sleeves and without like Dana 80, never had an issue as long as you're paying attention and kinda know what you doing.

I was just going to suggest Stanadyne, as they make injection pumps I would think they know what they are doing. Once in a while I use cen-pe-co antigel, I also use their motor oil for last 4-5 years. They only 40 minutes from me and on the way to work kinda. Did some oil sampling through cat dealer and results were as good as amsoil I ran before if not better.

Try turning the key on first then hit the app icon. Sometimes if you do it the other way it won't load. Also having airplane mode on and having a dedicated device just for the quad helps in some cases.

I had a 1998 half ton gasser with v6 and it avaraged around 18, I also had a tundra in that year range with a V8 that averaged 18 with way more power, hand calculated. Forgot to say 1998 was a Dodge ram 1500

You're grids were cycling, you need to have it up to temp shut everything off drive around a block faster than 20 mph then come back and without shutting off the truck check ac at alternator only.

Yeah you never know these days