Dieselfuture

In that case rockauto has some for $50 a piece, who wants to be first lol...

You know I keep forgetting to try and spin tone ring with a screw driver every time I have it apart Just spoke with Sadler and they want almost 300 for one of Timpken that rockauto has for 170, I had the guy look on the box and he did say it's made in US, so I guess rock aututo it is then. I'll do a bit more search here and probably order them, so much for buying spear rims and tires lol. Definitely don't want to wait to pay tow bill, that be the price of hubs

JAG if you don't mind I'll post here instead of starting a new thread. I think I'll be buying a set of new hubs as my passenger side was kinda growling at me on the way to work today, not sure if it's wind or tire. I actually completely flushed old grease out using mineral spirits thinner, put some through sensor hole using small funnel, spun hub back and forth, used old vacuum cleaner to suck it all out, repeat about 5 times till it was spotless inside. Then I used electric cleaner to flush out mineral spirits out and once again vacuum. Then I used my grease zerk I put in few years ago and pumped it full of Kendall grease mentioned above, spun hub and then vacuumed out some for air space inside. Bearings are tight and spun nice with little drag, with or without grease. So I'm not sure if they're bad but my ABS keeps coming and going and that slight noise from passenger side got me thinking. I was thinking abs light was from using wrong grease but now I have a completely different stuff in there and still same issue. My question is, original bearing seem to be listed as Mopar 5015282AA and rockauto has Timken HA590203 and in description it says OEM # 5015282AA So we're these Timpken original, or was it SKF, or who did dodge use. And which ones are better. I'm not buying any China junk! I think I may go to local Sadler Power Train place and see what they got, they usually carry good stuff. Anyone knows, let me know. Thanks.

I'm with you on that, it should be a standard thing at this point.

That or your valve seals blew off the seat. Pretty common

LOL I know just no time to do it. Beer can seemed like a good option at the time I was having it. How do you like them BF Goodrich rugged Trail, I know rugged terrain is supposed to be better

Does that filter come apart and you can change filter elements? I wouldn't rinse anything unless it's SS mesh.

Thinking about getting a spare set of rims ( steel ) for winter use, to keep my 4th gen wheels nicer longer. I found a set from 2003 with265/70/17 ( BF Rugget Trail-junk? date code 2004 about 1/2 tread $250 )which is kind of what I'd like to have on my aluminum rims with different rubber of course. So I thought about getting the steel ones and trying them out since I never had that size on my truck and then later if I liked it I would put a set of 265/70/17 on the 4th gen wheels and then find a set of 245/70/17 and put them on the steel wheels. Just not sure of having two sets sitting around is worth it. Or if I should just sell the tires I got now and get a set of 265 and be done with it, I just don't have money to spend at the moment on new tires, but for $250 I get to try out that size and keep the rims.

http://www.armorall.com/products/wipes

You can rebuild it yourself in about an hour or so, there are kits out there.

I was also running 8 and 18 but now I went to 10 and 20. From what I understand valves wear slowly into the seat and tolerances get tighter, but camshaft also wears a little and some what makes up the difference. That's why a lot of people check the valve lash after 100k and they seem to be pretty close. One thing I will say, after having the machine work done on the head with valve job, I had to readjust my valves as some of them got tighter. @Mopar1973Man might want to consider this. Which you probably already have.

With the valve train I got now I can shift at 7000 I just don't see that happening anytime soon

So they paid you guys for sitting there waiting for 10 weeks Could you at least go to Hooters while you were waiting

I see, it's two wheel drive, so are the bearings serviceable then? If they are try to repacking with fresh grease and make sure they're adjusted the right way. And if they're not the maybe they're just loser with time and there is enough slop between tone ring and ABS sensor and that's what's triggering the light. I'm starting to think that might be my problem too.

Wonder if there could be a flash done to the ECM to keep up with idle. Maybe talk to smarty people. Or @Me78569 might know something about it.