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Dieselfuture

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Dieselfuture last won the day on June 26

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  1. Dieselfuture

    Aaxle slop

    I'm not an expert by any means, but it doesn't look to bad. It seems to be in the middle on ring maybe a little out on pinion. You could reshim carrier towards pinion more to get slop out to spec and then shim pinion out towards center some. Dana didn't use crush sleve just shims. If you have enough thinner shims in there you can take .010 out one side of ring and put it on the other, same on pinion. Pinion you'll need a large bearing separator and a press more then likely. And a dile indicator that reads in thousands on a magnetic base that you can get at Harbor freight along with everything else.
  2. Dieselfuture

    Fuel gauge fluctuations

    Probably guage, how is your fuel system set up. Do you use draw straw or basket, maybe something came lose on a turn
  3. Dieselfuture

    Front End Wander

    Don't get me started on front end on these pos's lol and good luck with quality parts these days. I've been sticking to original Spicer and Mopar stuff on that. I just did a T bar style steering and like that, I have an adjustable track bar that's a must I think, but my gearbox might be going out. I had some clunking in steering wheel and thought tierods would do it as they were getting lose but it didn't help clunking, I even changed lower bearing on steering column to a rock solid bushing thinking clunk was there, then I adjusted my gearbox and clunk got better so I think it's in the box. But after the few things I did change my steering is tight now, just some clunking in the wheel wnen going over small bumps. Maybe it's a linkage between column and gear box, but I think it's the box, because after adjustment it's better.
  4. Mine did that too the one I bought with the quad, I changed the probe and it's all good now. Kind of sucks it only lasted 20k My iss pro that is post turbo been working good has close to 20k on it now too and it's electric over mechanical or something like that. Has a box with some wires that's under dash.
  5. I personally would get studs and change one at time, gasket with 50k is probably fine no need to pull it off. Then I'd get tweens if money is not an object or something like mentioned above with 62mm. Mine is 62/67/12 hx35 hybrid custom built, I chose that over store bought to be able to use my exhaust break, it's bolted to back of the turbo. If it wasn't for that I'd get a store bought one with a 4" outlet vs 3" but it's been good to me so far. If you have Quadzilla adrenaline with v2 tuning that's great, you can tune quite a bit with it with bigger injectors. You'll definitely need a good fuel system with bunch of guages to monitor things, with quadzilla you get a lot of it but I like to have analog mechanical gauges as back up too. Your stock tranny will be shot in no time with added power and you'd be money ahead to get it right now and not later jmo. Air+fuel+timing=power more you shove in more power you get but at certain point it gets expensive. I would love tween turbo set up but getting buy with what I got, and need to spend money on front end, it's a never ending battle. But when it runs great down the road it's all worth it in the end
  6. Dieselfuture

    47re Overdrive discussion

    No, but from what I've read in his posts he is a smart man. And he does like georend from what I can tell.
  7. Dieselfuture

    Fuel gauge tester

    Maybe someone else has a different opinion on this, but that's been my experience
  8. Yes you want to go bigger, for you I would think 285/70/17 would be a good size without compromising steering parts too much.
  9. Dieselfuture

    Fuel gauge tester

    It should be fine whether it's gas diesel or whatever, most of the time they are made out of coil brass tube, but it could go out of calibration or break depends on how much extra pressure
  10. Depending on a shop, maybe 80-100 to surface, plus they usually tank it in cleaning solution it may be extra it may not. And just depends on how busy they are, the job itself may be half an hour or so also depends on how bad it is and how many passes they need to make.
  11. With that kind of mileage is say at least surface, they recommend any time you pull the head off to surface it, but I've skipped a few times and got a way. I used a local machine shop that's all they been doing for last 30 years is built race motors, they know their stuff. But beware some are out to get you, I know these guys for a long time and never had a problem or ever heard of them screwing someone, they have a competitor across town that is known to screw newbies over but treats his drinking buddies good. He screwed me once a long time ago, I never been back and how I found this other place. Put small indentations in few random places and take a picture, so you know it's your head when you get it back if you don't trust them. These heads like to crack (and not all cracks are bad) and they may have a friend that need a good head, just never know these days. Good luck.
  12. I'm sure you can get away on a stock motor by reusing them especially with new gasket it will last for a while but then one day you'll be wishing you did studs. I would check the head for cracks and pressure test it and surface it, also check guides, I had to replace my at 153k as 12 of them were ovaled out and seals were starting to leak. Kind of stumped myself as it only had 153k and some go over a million without pulling a head off. Or at least surface it if you trust the guy and put it back on with studs. I have h11 for studs from po, and they say you don't have to retorque them or bottom tap them and I reused them too when I had my head off. I haven't retorqued it yet and have 7k since. Not sure if I'm going to retorque or just say it's good enough. I always wondered on factory engines, no one ever retorque bolts, guessing because they are yield to torque or something like that, but you would think studs if installed right shouldn't need retorque ether. By done right I mean after 3 steps of getting to final torque I go back through each one (this time it doesn't matter on sequence) and losen it up relube and torque back to final spec, in my case I went 135ft/lb on h11. I never had a problem doing it this way on different vehicles.
  13. Dieselfuture

    High Fuel Temp

    That's a good advice, I've noticed temp rising as tank gets lower. Another thing is I have a modified fuel basket where my in and out are in the same basket but all in 1/2" so yes as tank gets empty heat goes up. Now if you did your draw straw the right way like @Mopar1973Man did and don't have 1/4 tank air suckling issues then it's more beneficial to return to filler neck to help keep heat down so you don't recycle it as much and it keeps 2-cycle mixed better but I'm just guessing here. I never had a problem with my basket but whoever installed my draw straw cut it way to short. And I generally fill up around 1/3 of the tank if I can for several reasons. I've seen my fuel temp around 150 and usually when I get low on fuel, usually it's around 130ish
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