Dieselfuture

Sorry that's not the sliders I'm talking about, the ones I'm speaking off are round and have rubber boots on them. You have to use special high temp lubricant inside, don't use regular anti seize it dries out

I remember when my clutch on Mustang was going out, when I push it in, I could feel it in the pedal like it was grinding, throw out bearing was dry and coming upart. But it also had a cable clutch, not sure how much feel woiluld travel through hydraulics. Pilot I think would cause hard shifts as its binding and not letting input shaft to slow down.

These wierd coincidences happen just to mess with us, that's what I figured out so far.

Well that sucks, I was hoping I didn't have to pull it out any time soon. So is that bearing spinning all the time then when you're going down the road or does it move back far enough away from pressure plate. I can't really feel anything in clutch pedal when I apply it. I was always concerned about pilot bearing too. I guess I'll have to find out sooner then later huh.

I spoke with Rian at blue top and he said he uses a bigger bearing too along with something else that's upgraded. My next box will probably be from him.

I my understanding ceramic is designed more towards performance, so in your case with higher hp you may be stock with ceramic, it will still last a while just not as long as your organic and other brands. But that's the price you have to pay for performance. If you don't put a lot of miles on towing and just commuting in general, then ceramic will do just fine. If you dd it a lot then I'm guessing it will wear out much faster. I still don't know what I have invested my truck, po said it was an aftermarket clutch but wasn't sure what exactly as his buddy sold it to him and helped to install. All I know is it's really grabby with very little friction to it, I'm guessing it's ceramic. Some day I'll find out I'm sure and be thinking on what to use myself. My truck will scoot if I get on it, so it has to be close to 500hp clutch that I have now. I'll be sure to start a thread on it when time comes, I wouldn't be surprised if it is a dual disc because of all the rattle that comes from transmission when it's hot idling in netral. Push in clutch the noise goes away, let go it sounds horrible. Looked inside through shifter, everything looked new. I even spoke with a good transmission guy here and right of way he said it's the clutch that causes the noise, don't worry about transition and add extra fluid.

I was always under the assumption that OL meant open loop, but we all know where assumptions take us.

Or better yet, some pour guy will do all the research and decides to get a cummins just to start fixing it and then sell it and say Cummins is junk and get a duramax or something.

I'm as good in wireing as you are, most of it goes right over my head if it has to do with more than one wire

For sale, low miles common rail Cummins, extra clean, well taken care of. Some red light is flashing on the dash. Don't miss this opportunity, won't last long...

I had oil sending units leak right out of box new, in fact I just warranted one out through RockAuto for a van I worked on.

Pull the headlight switch out disconnected from wires and shake It, can you hear anything rattling loose inside

Maybe try bleeding your brakes again. Since you had the system opened up maybe there is still some are left in it that somehow is messing with a BS computer

Have you pulled the door switch out and checked it. My door switch on driver side has been unplugged since I bought the truck, I just don't like lights coming on when I open the door for some reason. If I want lights I just use the headlight switch wheel. Wipers not returning home, on my truck ended up being a wiper motor. The door dinger I'm not sure about, technically if the keys in the ignition and the door is open ( lights on) then the the dinger should be on.

You guys should really do the WT ground mod, it really helps, and there are more ground splices that need attention too that we've been finding.