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Dieselfuture last won the day on November 8

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  1. I actually drilled and tapped for a grease fitting facing 90° towards rear on both sides. Tiny hole all the way through and a 1/4" one for the fitting. First I do the fitting then drill through, this way I keep all shavings out. So when I pump grease in I have old come out from sensor hole while I spin the hub. Then I use a vacuum to get as much out as I can so it's not packed full. Worked great until I changed hubs chasing abs light issue that ended up being rear end sensor. I kept the old hubs as there's nothing wrong with them and what I did is put mineral spirits thinner in there spun the
  2. What he said, used to be $50 torrent at dap. You pay full price for smarty and when you return it they refund money but keep 50 not sure how it is now. I've been wanting to do this for a long time but been using quad high idle so far.
  3. Does look odd but I don't think that's the problem. Black sticky stuff could be assembly lube still working it self out of the guide, or it could be that your new seals worked them selves up of the guides and got smashed by the retainers. Happened to me, had my head redone and short time after I had bunch of seals that popped off the seats and got hammered. Started rough with lots of smoke, took valve cover off and sure enough. Check them out, then make sure you have no vacuum leaks, they contribute to excessive blowby and in some cases lost oil.
  4. Back in the day friend of mine had an early 80s chevy, of course we jacked it up 12" with 3" body lift and put some 44 tsl's on it, man talk about death wobble, we were going to an off road park on hwy which has been closed for quite a while now thanks to local government and not wanting people enjoy life, and it started hopping so bad we went of on shoulder almost in the ditch. Everything seemed tight on front end, the only thing I can think of the axle was rotated from the lift so much that's what did it. Idk but it did that to him every so often, he never did fix it had some fun off-roading
  5. Just put a denso in and forget about rebuilding your Bosch. You can even put a slightly higher amp 160? one from Durango I believe. I rebuild my Bosch it's not too bad. You'll need more than just a rectifier, brushes and armature will need to be changed also along with bearings that are pressed on. Honestly if you get a genuine denso should last a long time, that's why I don't see a point of rebuilding unless you want something to tinker with or money is tight. denso has a power stud in different location but everything still bolts on just fine.
  6. Yes, most important part is it's adjustable. With time your front springs sag a little this puts extra pressure on the track bar and shoves the axle to the passenger side. Every time you go over bumps it gets yanked back and forth, really it takes a lot of abuse. That's why when you go to install one, most of the time you have to lift up on the frame to get holes linend up and then you let it down and all that pressure is put on the ball joint. I'm surprised they last as long as they do to begin with. Add a lift and that will offset the axle because the track bar is too short at this point and
  7. If you have a factory track bar I bet it's shot. Hard to check it by yourself, need to start the truck and have someone wobble steering wheel back and forth while you look at the end with a stupid ball joint. With the truck weight basically resting on that joint it will feel tight if you just went under the truck and pulled on it. I would highly recommend adjustable track bar with bushing instead of ball joint. I made my own a while back and haven't had any issues. But for the amount of time I spent it makes more sense to buy one, probably safer too. I'm pretty confident in my fabrication so I
  8. Jag it sounds like you have too much air in bags and possibly wore out or weak shocks for what you do. Of course front level kit doesn't help you in this situation. Eat the turkey save the chicken, they get a break this time of year.
  9. I don't think so, it looks like it's been changed by a dealer at some point, my truck has exact same sticker and po told me that the original owner he got it from had the pump replaced under warranty. As for your surging issue it sounds identical to what I've experienced a while back. I too wanted to change the vp44, that's how I found this place. First I changed injectors it seemed to help but didn't completely cure it, then I checked ac noise and found I had bad diodes. So I rebuild the alternator and it got way better, and eventually when WT article came out did that and it lowered the
  10. No cam bolts, I still need to do this myself. As for tierods I have a 3d gen T style one, took few tries with tape measure and now it seems really good, no abnormal wear on tires after 7-8 k a season, then I rotate tires. If anything you want 0 toe or just a tiny bit positive. There are more than one way of doing it. I had axle on jackstands, spun tire holding a screwdriver so I had a straight line then did my best measuring. When I did adjustment tires were on the ground, not sure what's the best way, it worked for me.
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