Jump to content


Platinum Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Dieselfuture last won the day on November 1

Dieselfuture had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,421 Expert


Personal Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

2,108 profile views
  1. A little update. Aurelian sent a calibration file to Malone, malone sent us 2 files. One unmolested from Aurelian and the other tweaked to us model vw car. They both improved how car responded but tweaked one ran beter. Then we had to take some torque away because it still shuttered/stumbled at hwy speed when getting on throttle. Lost a bit of power but drivability greatly improved, I can leave with that. I never did change any hard parts, it was all in tuning. Still not sure how it ran good for so long and then needed calibration file. I'm starting to dislike all automobiles.
  2. Make sure you read to the end we changed a wire to splice a few times.
  3. Honestly I don't know. They came off a 2012 srw3500 I would think quite a bit , I remember @AH64ID saying something about 17" had lower ratings. I don't think it's rims themselves, more to do with tires.
  4. You may have your reasons, but I would stay away from them, they all crack eventually. I like my 4th Gen rims, some will say go for 18" for weight rating, or stay with 16" just not what you're looking for.
  5. I never understood why dodge made it this way. All normal cars you can put vents in any position you desire and have 2 buttons, one for recycled air and one for ac. Meaning put things how you like and choose what's on. Dodge went full retard on that one, among other things. I spliced a wire under the dash hvac controls and put it on toggle switch, so I can turn ac compressors on when I want. @IBMobileis who came up with the idea.
  6. If it's about 16th of an inch up down it's probably ok, side to side should be zero. I changed mine with a little play up down because I was doing wheel bearing anyway but when put new ones in the had about same play as original with 150k + on them. Lose steering is probably more likely track bar, tierods, steering box, or stabilizer shock in that order. Jmo
  7. Check your ecm plug, maybe vp plug. I'd think it's more with a lose wire.
  8. If you're not losing coolant it may be vp related. Something to do with timing. I would think if it was injectors it would do it all the time. We'll get through it, just need to get the ball rolling.
  9. Should do it, but the ball joints studs will need to be cut off to them out with that kit. You'll see why.
  10. Cheap dodge paint, sooner or later it comes off. Unless your truck been garaged it's whole life it's just how to is, mine is about gone too.
  11. In case anyone wondering, sent my module to module masters in Idaho. Got it back installed and same thing. Abs/brake light come and go. Had a guy use snap on and got few codes for rear sensor. Went for a ride and front left is still dropping signal like it did before. Although I noticed just past 320 mark, both front left and rear drop at the same time, wondering if it's related. What's weird is it had code for rear sensor but no codes for the front.
  12. These days it's not only people but hoses too, you just can't trust anyone
  13. I cleaned mine too, but like @IBMobile mentioned it only lasts so long and fails again. I ended up getting a new borgwarner switch.
  • Create New...