Dieselfuture

I modified my original bar, welded some stuff to it years ago and it's doing just fine. I basically cut out 4-5" an welded a fine thread bolt in between for adjustment then welded a round bushing stock where bill joint was then made a bracket for the frame, guess it's not for everyone as it will take time and thinking cap. Best is to get an adjustable one if you can't make one yourself.

C2500 with a 4.3 thought all 3/4 tons had V8 Have you looked at rockauto for line kits or new modules, should come with everything you need. Help section at part stores carry fittings that snap on modules then you can use rubber lines.

On the 01 vacuum does HVAC, cad, exhaust break if you have one that uses vacuum. Breaks are hydraulic, cruise control is electric. If you're pump is not leaking oil between where power steering connects then it's probably fine. Your front may not be engaging because the diaphragm on the cad is bad and you could be loosing vacuum there too. How's blow-by, when you have a vacuum leak blow-by increases. Maybe plug the line going to cad see if things change. Also you can suck on cad actuator on each end where line is attached and see if diaphragm is bad. This is where I got my rebuild kit, like others mentioned Cummins or here on the site is a good place also. Not sure if this guy still sells kits I haven't looked in a while.

Quad is a great investment for a vp44 motor, can't really go wrong on that decision. If you get quad and 62/68/12 or similar get 150 hp vco poped at 320 bar, DAP does a good job at that, that's where I got most of my stuff. Be specific if you do, not everyone wants higher pop pressure. Anything less then 7x10 (150hp) injectors with 62/68/12 is a waste and you'll be going to them later. As for getting bigger turbo you can still use it with compounds (twins) or you can go straight to compounds now and use original hx35 as primary and a bigger one for secondary will save some money on not buying 2 turbos. Lots of options that's why I said depending on what you want and how much you want to spend. Quad will be your best friend tuning things in with either set up after you'll figure out how to use it which is a topic on itself.

Yeah I see your point, I'm sure dap can do the same for RVs if you asked them. I suppose it may cost extra then just getting the 50hp right of way. I honestly haven't looked at prices lately

I would not run anything bigger then rv275 injectors without additional mods. At minimum you'll want a boost fooler. Best thing would be quadzilla and possibly 7x10 (150hp) you can do it but I would say get 62/68/12 to go with that, then you'll be set. Problem is where do you stop? ... Heads studs, building up tranny, etc. If you're just using it as dd and don't want to spend a fortune I'd just go with RVs and boost fooler, if you want to spend money leave xh35 alone and go tweens, be a nice towing set up with solid 500hp or so. Ether way I would not get used injectors with unknown condition pop pressure for 500, 200 maybe and still a lot of work just to try and find out it runs hot and smokey now.

He built a lot of things @Me78569

I've heard good things about moshimoto and if when I need one that's what I'll be getting. I don't mind spending more for something that will last for ever and I have no plans on selling my pile of rust.

Boost fooler may be not functioning or map sensor going waky

Go through settings in quad, make sure defuel is where it needs to be. I have mine set at 45 boost and 1400 egt as quad likes to start defiling sooner. But with my tune I usually max out my canbus at 35ish. Just installed drive pressure gauge to see where I'm at and at 40 boost my back pressure is at 42-45. I'm leaving it it alone for now, looking for used parts to go teens next. Tweens

I love reading W-T posts always something to learn, but I was under assumption that the fuse is there just in case alternator shorts to ground internally somehow and blows the 140 amp fuse instead of all other fuses and whatever else. or maybe that's the pcm mod I can't remember I did both just in case.

I think he is getting that mpg, but he has his own driving style and set up that makes it possible. For me I just simply don't want any smaller tires then I got and I don't have patience driving at 60 mph. Beginning of this summer I wanted to see what I can get for mpg if I was trying, well I got close to 25 I think, can't remember exactly but I was excited, so it is possible but I don't have time or patience for it most of the time. I think @JAG1 can beat Mike's record the way he drives

I want to say so much but I'll stay right here And I'll keep my 2nd gen for now too...

Maybe wastegate is sticking open

Did you check for boost leaks

I hope you're talking about going four wheeling and not sewer pipes

Hey now personally I wouldn't be running 150s without the 62/67/12 that I got, or something similar, I love it, spools quick and plenty of power for what I'm doing without getting hot out of control. Quad really helps to fine-tune things, like take away some fuel on bottom end before turbo is spoiling and timing adjustment for different size/pop of the injectors. But of course if you don't know how to tune you can make it worse not better. If you just took big injectors and shove them in, it'll be a hot mess. Need air to compensate for extra fuel not arguing there. All we were saying is you can get away with 150s and stock turbo with some tuning from the quad, obviously not an ideal setup. At least that's what's in my mind there's a lot of tunnels and hiding places in there

Quad will definitely give you way more control of things. I honestly don't see how we did it for so long without v2 tuning on these vp44 trucks. I suppose if you had a perfect turbo/injectors combo it would be ok, but then you're still stuck with timing tables built for stock injectors if you don't have a tuner if you have any other tuner but quad most of them try to max out fuel and timing before you get to 50% throttle something like that. With quad you tell it what you want and when.

Last winter we had a good snow storm, I was driving to work and ran into a bunch of cars driving 30 in 55 as usual I waited for a safe spot to pass and went for it, first car was a state trooper I kept on going and he never did anything, my luck I guess...

Dirty air filter Seems you should get 18s or better. Something isn't right, wore out injectors?

Maybe some drag bigger tires, brakes sticking

And pizza cutters

Yes. Just put in studs for now and deal with the hg and the head later, because it all adds up depending on how much work your head needs. Maybe spend some money on springs and push rods for now. At some point in future you won't have to buy all these parts and can spend money on the head and whatever else. Like stainless diesel exhaust manifold already has holes for egt and drive pressure and they claim you can gain up to 20hp and turbo responds better, plus it'll last forever. I've been looking for a used one for a while now, may have to just buy it one of these days. That's the great thing about not having payments like rest of the people I know, they make fun of me because I'm always spending little bit here and there but overall they don't seem to see the big picture on how they spend 500-800 a month and I might spend 1000 a year and most of the time it's for something I want not need, like new dash or air bag controls, stupid stuff that I can get by without. Just figured if I spend a little at a time it'll still be worth keeping and be somewhat reliable, which I can't say for many newer vehicles.

It's too bad this place closed down or at least it says that on line https://www.google.com/search?q=North+American+turbo&oq=North+American+turbo&aqs=chrome..69i57j46i175i199i512j0i512j0i22i30l2.1528j0j7&client=ms-android-google&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8 I'm happy with the turbo I got from them for $800 62/67/12 still able to use exhaust break with 5 bolt flange. I'm keeping it at low 40 psi on max setting to stay safe, and most of the time I don't really get over 30. Maybe someone else can build something similar for you, unless you going to put in a bigger turbo and then get an in line EB which would probably cost more then just building a turbo for 800 and using what you already have.

I just got this one has mesh inside too just in case. https://www.amazon.com/Baldwin-PA2820-Air-Element/dp/B001JQTI2K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Baldwin+PA2820&qid=1632406475&sr=8-3 For next time I change a filter which may be few years down the road, but as things are starting to get a bit hard to come by I figured it can sit on the shelf for a while.