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JAG1

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JAG1 last won the day on November 15

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  • Location (City, State)
    North West Oregon

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  1. wil440, need to ship your RV to the states and go camping with us . We got big fish, big mountains, big meals and a pile of BS around the fire. It's great. Unbelievable places to see too
  2. Remember after a few years you will learn to go camping where the cell phone don't work. I have to put it down once in awhile with all the things folks want me for, I get pressured over the responsibilities involved with weather and circumstances. Oregon rains a bit much and sometimes takes away the feeling being your own boss. You will be very busy in not too distant future.
  3. I get some pics up this weekend as I have a lot involved with other people and things happening now. I think the alternator shorted because there may be something wrong with the trucks wiring. That last alternator was almost new, an original Bosch with only 40,000 miles on it. Should have gone 240,000. The batteries are new last April. I will also do the voltage drop test. That B+ cable was newly made only a couple years ago during W-T's educating all of us on reducing the amount of AC ripple throughout the system. Thank you all for the great input....... is good readin
  4. Yep, mine shorted but the fuse is still intact I don't know what to think.
  5. I know about the why of having a fuse or breaker, but why didn't the fuse blow instead of glowing the stud bright white. Something wrong there with a stud an inch from the fuse and the shrink tube is melting and stud lights up like a light bulb yet the fuse did not melt. Can someone explain that for me.?
  6. My second Original alternator just shorted out again. First one was the original ND, original to the truck at 222,000 roughly. Six months later an original Bosch from the other truck with about 30,000 shorted out when I used the grids and then the seat heaters about 7 minutes apart. I saw the 150 amp fuse stud holding the cable, on the battery side of the fuse, glowing bright white the next day and never melted the fuse. Weird. I took the fuse out and don't need one IMHO. Now I'm having rebuilds bench tested for AC ripple and get the Lifetime replacement.... I will become the faste
  7. Really cool to see a guy go to town on it like that. You can tell he's done a lot of them.
  8. I will John as I need to give that truck a full warm up again soon. My total weight last time I did it was 10,200. never did the axles seperate though. I used to have Rancho shocks years ago and found the adjustment had corroded and froze up. I have the U bolts on order that Nisaacs said to get and going to make my own one inch spacer block also. It looks like with the added spacer the overloads will be just starting to contact the bump stops. That and letting out 20 lbs of air from the air bags will help. I will let everyone know how it worked out. BTW, I will have to
  9. I understand. One thing about this site it will let me know when you post up some further developments or questions. There is one tough spot with the torklifts...... I believe the fuel tank is in the way of getting a nut in there and getting it on the bolt. I think I got it by using a piece of wire on the tip of the bolt and sliding the nut on there. With the tip of my finger I was able to thread it on and wrench it from there.
  10. Nice work Nisaacs. I'm like you I like to do good work. Thank you again so much John, yes the camper is almost always on with that truck and the camper has a winter package with a heated basement and tanks so it is higher up. The truck came with a camper package with front and rear sway bars and two springs on each side for overloads. The shocks are the KYB MonoMax and are still acting like Katooms nightmare being so stiff like riding in a lumber truck when empty. When truck shopping the dealer let me take home a dually, but I just couldn't get used to the extra wheel p
  11. Is it possible to subtract the weight of the axle/ differentials, wheels and tires because they actually rest on the ground? Not on the suspension? Most likely a moot question. Makes me wonder what type filter is used on this forum to get all the best people around here Thank you all John sometimes I hate running with that camper, but at times when up in remote places I'm so glad I got it. 17 years of white knuckles and learned to take it easy on uncrowded highways and byways is better. Nisaacs, is that spacer a piece of UHMW plastic, as it looks white? Al
  12. Okay you guys, as usual, got me goin straight....... Yes that is the weight of the camper I gave you and should have said something about how I never weighed the rear and maybe could guesstimate for me. All in all It would have been better if I left the front alone, never putting on a 2 in. level kit and even finally going to a one inch level kit. I do like the ride with the air bags, is better, but sometimes feels like a balloon with side to side motion that likes to take its time going away. That spacer block Nisaacs is fantastic idea and I like the heavier looking 'U
  13. Yeah I have a good source, I find who's got what I want and when I get there I don't look at how much I'm handing over. Works a little bit. I go to Six Robblees in Milwaukie, Oregon. They know how to talk Turkey on price somewhat and stocks Donaldson for oil, air and stock fuel filter. Also stocks Racor. Oil Filter Service in Portland not so much. For my second truck I got lucky because the owners son bought it new and then sold the truck before putting it on his Ford. Even the lowered priced surprised me how much, but I got it anyhow. Racor says their filters are designed differe
  14. Yeah you guys they are plumbed separately. Got a one inch lever kit in the front. I been inflating the bags to about 45-55 lbs. Side to side movement is only occasional like hitting a speed bump on a diagonal. That really gets the boat rockin. Also sometimes running down those back roads that aren't graded the best. Just would like it a bit firmer by putting the springs back to work.
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