Mace

Kinda, I mimicked the dimensions of the oem fan. 3rd gen + fans are CCW that's why none of them work for us. This one is 2.9" wide while the oem is 2.5"

Just a teaser of what’s to come. I designed this and just received it in the mail yesterday. I had an engine fan manufacturer make this to my specs and after some future test fitting and such I hope it to be available for everyone who wants one. After I’m sure it works I’ll make a post about how to get one and what needs to be done to make it work (i.e. does it work with a Fluidampr? etc etc) I do this for the advancement of our 2nd gen community. I will not make a penny on this. I imagine my design would be stolen and copied once they’re available on the market but alas, it is life. Stay tuned…

I used the Valair QNV56DDSN-ORG clutch. Much much quieter then a SBC DD 3250 I ran years ago. It 's enjoyable to drive. Yes, I installed it. It went together perfectly first go.

My clutch of 7 years decided to peace out today (throw out is just screaming). 1 month short of my trans rebuild slated for end of June (of course). I bought a Valair DD quiet clutch kit 2 weeks ago and I have South Bend hydros already (clutch is a single disc SB) I need to pull my bellhousing adapter plate off to reseal my rear cam plug. Does anyone know the torque spec for the bolts that mount it to the back of the block? Because it’s DC I can’t simply log into QSOL and find it by ESN. Gonna do my rear main seal too (sleeved style). I found a NOS Cummins installer for that particular seal for cheap online so I know have just about every tool for the 24V one can think of :)

If you’d like to take your power steering a step further here’s an idea to bulletproof it more. I finished today converting both my 6 bolt PSC steering box and both hydroboost fittings to 6 AN/JIC. Now if I have a hose failure a simple 6 JIC hose is all that needs replacing vs the oem hoses that seem cheap and poorly crimped.

Oh I’m around ;)

That’s what I’ve done for a temp fix. The light is off. I found a used buckle online and am awaiting for it in the mail.

That’s unfortunate I’ve hadn’t had any honks and found that info about the foil wrap on other forums. I only have 1 wrap. I’ve noticed my fob doesn’t have the range it did before. Sorry bud I was hoping it was gonna work for you.

Well I think I’ll remove it and see if I can find a similar one from maybe a later model Ram and see if I can make it work. If I do I’ll post which one I used. Yes, it’s held on with 1 screw, easy. There’s a harness coming out of my latch on the driver buckle. 2 wire with a connector.

I’ve been killing some gremlins in my truck lately and this is the last one. I’ve had the 3 horn honk when unlocking the door with my fob for the last 15 years that I solved by wrapping the ctm in foil tape…this blows my mind. $6 from Home Depot. Unbelievable. The last is my driver side seatbelt latch switch is i think the issue. The dash light stays on but if I wiggle the latch just right it stays off. I think the switch contacts inside is worn out. Has anyone found a seatbelt latch that’ll work (they’re discontinued) or is the switch serviceable?

If you want to refill coolant properly use a vacuum tool such as Snap-On sells. If your cooling system is in a vacuum coolant will enter every crevice where the vacuum is, hence no air pockets. This is the only way we do it at Freightliner as air pockets can develop (such like in a egr cooler) that don’t necessarily burp out right away.

2nd Gen diesel trucks come with (2) Group 27 top post batteries from OEM. My 27’s at the time were 750 CCA.They work fine for most of our truck’s service life but if your like me and have a few extra electrical loads then moving up to commercial Group 31’s is an ideal modification. There is an article here about modifying the plastic OEM trays to accept 31’s but in my case after 25 years and weathering & fear of cracking I just wanted a new hassle free setup. The only company (so far) offering this is LRB Speed. They made them for the early 2nd gens (94-98.5) and they weren’t tested in the later ones. I rolled the dice and found they work fine with only minimum modification. They come unassembled so just follow the directions and rivet them together. They make them to accommodate the factory temp sensor & cruise servo for the L/H tray. I don’t have a cruise servo so this didn’t apply to me, the temp sensor bracket was a perfect fit for the sensor. The only mod I had to do was move the horns somewhere else as the R/H tray will contact them. So I moved them to a bracket that supports my Webasto coolant heater and simply extended & secured the factory wiring harness. The bottom of each tray mounts through the holes in the bottom of the fender. I drilled the tray holes bigger and installed 5/16” rivnuts instead of the smaller M8 ones they come with (for rigidity). I installed two standard/flooded 925 CCA top stud batteries with 190 minute reserve capacity. I put lug terminals on them so as to not have to modify my battery cables. Main reason I did this is my Webasto was starting to draw the 27’s down enough that I would get a no flame fault and it wouldn’t run in the cold mornings before I went to work. I run a Nations 180A alternator and with the W-T mod and upgraded battery cables completed a few years earlier I feel I have a very reliable setup now. View full Cummins article

You betcha!

I read an article here about modifying our existing battery trays to accommodate 31’s. I pondered it but I decided to go another, more expensive route for some reason. LRB Speed makes “put together yourself” aluminum ones for $400. I run 925 CCA Detroit Diesel batteries (from my work) and I’m pretty happy. They’re made well and even a proper spot for the temp sensor on the driver side tray. I had to relocate my horns but other then that they fit and lined up great. With my Nations 180 amp alternator I feel it’s a good combo. My old 27’s were 750 CCA if I remember correctly. This will help with running my Webasto coolant heater I have as well running in cold mornings. Enjoy!