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Tractorman

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Tractorman last won the day on April 13

Tractorman had the most liked content!

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    Scotts Mills, Oregon

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  1. I am currently approaching 294,000 miles on the original clutch and transmission with lots of towing over its life. The last 45,000 miles have been with a Smarty programmer set on Software 5. I don't have coolers on the transmission (someday I will), but I overfill by one quart. If you make an effort to match road speed to engine rpm during shifts (up and down), you can make a transmission and a clutch last for a very long time. Enjoy the truck! - John
  2. Tractorman

    Well the Order is in

    For awhile I thought you were going to have to change your slogan to "Truckless for the first time FOR a decade". - John
  3. When I quit calling my truck a dog, it started behaving much better. First, can you confirm that it is the brake light (not the taillight) that is staying on? The two circuits share the same bulb (but different filaments) in the rear of the truck. Also, is the problem light illuminated at full brightness when this occurs? The turn signal switch (mulit-function switch) and the emergency flashers are also a source of power to the brake lights and the both circuits share the same filament in the dual filament bulb. You might try removing the emergency flasher fuse to see if that changes the symptoms. The brake fuse and emergency flasher fuse are supplied with unswitched power, and the turn signal circuit fuse is supplied with switched power. - John
  4. Tractorman

    New NV4500 Probelms

    If the clutch engagement is reliably at about half pedal during all driving conditions, this would indicate that the clutch is operating as it should. If the pilot bearing is dragging and forcing the transmission input shaft to rotate when the clutch pedal is depressed, it will be hard to select a gear from neutral with the engine running and the vehicle stopped. Here is a way to test for a dragging pilot bearing. After driving the truck for a few minutes and when your hard-shifting symptoms are showing, drive the tuck to a safe parking place. Set the park brake, shift the transmission to neutral and leave the engine running. Do the following sequence several times: 1. Depress the clutch pedal and wait for about 3 seconds (this will give time for the mass of the transmission input shaft and countershaft to come to a stop). 2. Leaving the transmission in neutral, release the clutch pedal fairly quickly ( you should hear the engine slightly load when the clutch engages the transmission input shaft) Note approximate pedal position when you hear the engine slightly load. If you do detect the engine loading during this process, then the pilot bearing is doing its job by allowing the transmission input shaft to stop rotating. If you do NOT detect the engine loading during this process, then friction from pilot bearing is latching onto the transmission input shaft and not allowing the input shaft to stop rotating. Some other things that can contribute to hard shifting while driving. * wrong type of oil in transmission * not matching road speed to engine rpm during shifting * low oil level in transmission - John
  5. Tractorman

    4x4 Actuator

    I agree. It was partly for this reason, and also to gain the option of having two wheel drive in low range, that I disconnected the vacuum controls at the transfer case and installed a manual vacuum control valve in the cab to engage the CAD. When roads are expected to be snowpacked, I will engage the CAD before I move the truck so that I can go in and out of 4wd on the fly as needed without harming the syncrho in the transfer case or harming the CAD unit. The vacuum control valve is a heater control valve from a Pontiac in a salvage yard. The cost was $2.00 and with a slight modification it has been in use for over 200,000 miles. The truck has 292,000 miles currently with no CAD problems yet. - John
  6. Just wanted to share a dead pedal experience. One March 19, 2018, during a return trip from Crescent City pulling my travel trailer, I exerienced the dead pedal syndrome about fifteen times in the last 35 miles to home. Each event lasted about 20 seconds (sometimes longer). It was a slow 35 miles, but the truck made it home. At this time the truck had logged a total of 289,000 miles with 202,000 miles on the VP44. The check engine light came on and stayed on and code P0121 ( Accelerator Position Sensor Signal Voltage Too Low) was set. I was hoping that I could replace the APPS and the problem would be resolved. I went on-line to Blue Chip Diesel for help. I was immediately disillusioned when I read the following: “The symptom of Dead Pedal is rarely caused by the APPS (Accelerator Pedal Position aka Throttle Position Sensor) and 90% of the time it is caused by a faulty computer on the top of VP44 Injection Pump. These numbers are NOT an exaggeration.” My old analog voltmeter doesn’t work anymore, so no testing of the APPS. I decided to replace the APPS with a Timbo since the original had logged 289,000 miiles. The good news is that I have driven over 3,000 miles (mostly towing) and the dead pedal condition has never returned and no codes have been set. The engine runs strong. Only time will tell if replacing the APPS was the correct solution. I will post again if I the dead pedal condition returns. - John
  7. Tractorman

    cp3 issue?

    Check tightness of fuel injector line clamps for knocking sound at idle or just off idle. A friend of mine has an 07 truck that the engine knocked at low rpms and I was looking into re-clocking the CP3 pump when he noticed #4 injector line clamp vibrating. I tightened the very loose clamp and the knocking sound immediately disappeared.. Check for broken or loose boost clamps between the turbo outlet and intercooler, and between intercooler and engine. Also, check exhaust manifold for cracks or leaks. Either situation could lead to significant loss of boost or drive pressure, and a squealing sound could occur as air or exhaust gases escape under pressure. - John
  8. Tractorman

    Power Steering Pump

    I should have stayed with my OEM pump. - John
  9. Tractorman

    Power Steering Pump

    Interesting. At 215,000 miles on my truck I replaced the original power steering pump even though it was still working. I replaced it with the Boregeson pump. The Borgeson pump had started making a very minor noise under certain conditions a few months ago and it failed suddenly and completely at just under 75,000 miles later. I now have a Napa remanufactured pump on the truck. It will be interesting to see how long it will last. I was disappointed in the short life of the Borgeson pump. How many miles did you get out of your Napa pump? - John
  10. Tractorman

    AC clutch

    I understand - good luck with your search. - John
  11. Tractorman

    AC clutch

    One year ago I purchased a Denso compressor (same as OEM ) from Amazon for $203.00 with free shipping. The original compressor was still working fine at 270,000 miles, but the shaft seal was leaking refrigerant, so I was having to recharge frequently. Since the first compressor, a Denso, was so reliable, I went with another new one. - John
  12. Tractorman

    Well the Order is in

    Isn't "D" for, "It will ready in December? - D1 for, "Ready for sure by December 1st?" I'm sure this is what it means. - John
  13. Tractorman

    Everyone post a picture of your truck!

    I’ve had the roof and hood painted since my earlier posting of a photo. The rest of the body has just has a few paint chips, but the clear coat is still good. As usual, no good deed goes unpunished. While the truck was in the shop, I received a phone call saying, “Hey, we went to move your truck this morning and there is no power steering or power brakes”. Well, that was great news. So, after the truck was painted I picked it up with my flatbed trailer. At least it was towed by another Dodge Cummins. I replaced the power steering pump the next day and now the truck is back to work again - John
  14. Tractorman

    Air Conditioning

    I ran my original compressor for 240,000 miles. I was adding refrigerant more frequently and decided to take a gamble and replace the compressor with another new Denso one year ago last month. The following November (and 13,000 miles later) I replaced the heater core. When I recovered the refrigerant, I took out the same amount I put in when I replaced the compressor. Since I had no refrigerant leaks, I decided not to replace the evaporator core when I had the dash apart. Time will tell whether or not it was a good decision. - John
  15. You are getting closer. You do not need a heavy wire. Each relay consists of an internal coil and a switch. When the coil is energized it operates the switch. The coil only draws about one-sixth of an amp or about 150 milliamps, so light gauge wire is fine. The internal switch handles the load - about 100 amps for each grid heater. You are not tapping into the switch part, so no need for heavy wire. Note the wire sizes in the wiring diagram for the relay coils (18 gauge). Note the wire sizes for the relay switches (6 gauge). Also, the wires that leave the bottom of the page go to ground - not enough room to show it. Please let me know if I can make this more confusing. - John
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