Jump to content

Tractorman

Platinum Member
  • Content Count

    437
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

Tractorman last won the day on May 28 2019

Tractorman had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

360 Trustworthy

1 Follower

Personal Information

  • Location
    Baker City, Oregon

Recent Profile Visitors

1,199 profile views
  1. A year has passed since I posted in this thread regarding an issue that I have lived with for over a year now – a miss / quiver when driving my truck while pulling a grade with a load in sixth gear at around 20 to 25 psi boost. If you review the last couple of pages of this thread you will find the details of the problem. It turns out that the problem was not mechanical, but was an engine misfire due to advanced timing – not aggressively advanced, only one step up from stock timing (Timing #2 on the Smarty setting). I found the solution quite by accident. During one of my many trips towing to Baker City, Oregon during this last winter, I got tired of hearing excessive timing rattle due to the colder temperatures and winter blend diesel fuel. So, I decided to set timing to stock timing. As soon as I started driving the truck again, I immediately noticed the reduced timing rattle, but most importantly – I noticed the engine misfire was completely gone under all driving conditions. I wasn’t expecting that. At this point I realized that I had never used the stock timing setting in all my Smarty S03 testing since I installed the RV275 injectors over a year and 30,000 before this discovery. I made the timing change from T2 to T1 (stock) at the end of December, about 7,000 miles ago. I left the other Smarty settings unchanged. The engine has run smoothly under all driving conditions, including towing since then – no engine misfire. Just for grins, I bumped the timing back to T2 a couple of days ago and the engine misfire came right back, so I immediately returned the timing to T1 (stock). Within a couple of days of discovering this back in late December, I coincidently ran across a lengthy thread posted in the TDR in 2007 regarding several people experiencing an engine misfire on a cold engine (and some with a warm engine), but always towing and under a load such as pulling a grade. Some of the engines did not have tuners on them. It turned out that the cause was over advanced timing. Their solution at that time was to fool the IAT sensor into thinking the engine was up to operating temperature – kind of like what Mopar1973Man experimented with. Maybe he was even involved with this, I don’t know for sure. Anyway, I wanted to post this new information, just in case someone here is having a similar problem, I could have posted this information a few months ago, but I really wanted to sure it was a permanent fix to my problem before sharing with others. Also, changing the timing back to stock timing has not affected engine performance or fuel economy over the last 7,000 miles. - John
  2. Bicycles beat me of the line until I pick up a couple of gears. - John
  3. You didn't say how many miles are on the truck. Is the APPS currently on the truck an OEM part? If it is the original part or a replacement OEM part with lots of miles, I would consider just replacing it with a Timbo unit. It may not resolve your problem, but it wouldn't be a waste of money. - John
  4. The above test would be a good test, but before I did that test I would turn the key to the "run" position and rotate the temperature control knob and carefully listen with my ear close to the blend door actuator motor. If I could hear the motor operate (or try to operate), then I would think the problem would be a mechanical one downstream of the motor. If I couldn't hear the motor operate (or try to operate), then I would follow up with @Haggar's advice. I definitely want to know your fix because my Heater Treater part has been in use for 5 years now. - John
  5. That is a good test. When you turn the key into the "run" position, the lift pump will run for about 1/2 second. When you bump the starter, the lift pump will run for about 20 seconds. Make sure the key is in the "off" position (key can be removed position) before you start the test or you may get erroneous results. If you are not hearing the lift pump run, the, check the condition of the fuse. If it is blown, the pump may be faulty and drawing an excessive amount current. If you are going to keep this truck, and it sounds like you are, then you should invest in a factory service repair manual for your year and model of truck. This manual will show the locations of all electrical grounds for inspection. Or, you could become a member of this site and use the site's available resources, such as wiring diagrams. - John
  6. @Zekeworst, even though the 0216 code is a timing failure code within the VP44 injection pump, I wouldn't replace it just yet. I would inspect / clean all battery connections and ground locations. I would also investigate the APPS voltage to ensure that you are within the correct voltage range. Then, I would clear the codes, drive the truck and see what happens. - John
  7. If the engine still runs smoothly, but is just having a fixed power loss, then the engine likely has de-rated itself because there is a problem that may harm the engine if used at full power. Likely, a DTC has been set, but as @dripley has advised, you will need to get access to a good code reader. This will be a good place to start with your diagnosis. - John
  8. If the two wheel drive front bearing in this application does not use a sealed bearing cartridge (unit bearing), then this procedure does sound right. If the hub uses an inner and outer tapered roller bearing that are not sealed then tightening to 20 ft/lbs seats the bearing races, backing off 1/4 turn gives free play, and finally hand tightening sets the preload. There should also be a locking device to stop the nut from turning. If the two wheel drive front bearing uses a unit bearing, then the 280 ft/lbs procedure would be applicable. - John
  9. @pepsi71ocean, I agree with the above statement. Another possible solution with other benefits is to wire the grid heaters with a manual momentary switch. You get to make the decision as to how long the grid heaters stay on with your first engine start of the day. No more post cycling after engine is started, so the alternator immediately goes to work replenishing the batteries. This would significantly reduce the electrical load on the alternator during your day with many engine startups. I have used this mod since my truck was new. I am still running the original Bosch alternator. It has received one bearing kit and two brush sets during its life. Also, I went down in battery size to a Group 24 about two years ago. So far, no adverse effects. - John
  10. I had a fuel gauge strapped to a my windshield wiper for a week and about 250 miles. Fortunately, it didn't rain. - John
  11. Just curious, have you tried getting the air bag code cleared at the dealer? I don't know how it is with Dodge, but some auto manufacturers will allow ABS and Airbag codes to be read, but not cleared by after market diagnostic tools. Maybe someone else knows that answer. - John
  12. Awesome! I only have 162,000 miles to get to get to 500,000. @dripley, I think you're about 9 miles past warranty getting that air bag light fixed. I am I the process of building a house and a shop this summer - just moved to Baker City, Oregon in January. So I am hoping no head gaskets or VP44 before then, otherwise I will have to borrow your roof that you used when you did your head gasket - that is, if your chickens don't mind. - John
  13. Always learning something new. Thanks @IBMobile. - John
  14. Just curious as to why not coat with PAG oil. - John
  15. My mileage didn't suffer because I went back to where it happened and shoveled up all of the soot the exhaust spit out and put it back into the fuel tank. @dripley, seriously, I do appreciate your input. - John
×
×
  • Create New...