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Tractorman

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Tractorman last won the day on November 13

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    Scotts Mills, Oregon

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  1. I just replaced my heater core about two weeks ago. I had the HVAC unit on the bench (the only way to do it in my opinion) and spent some time replacing weather stripping around doors and duct connections. I bought some universal adhesive weather stripping in various sizes for windows at a local hardware store. In some places where I needed a thin seal, I used the fuzzy side of adhesive Velcro. Whatever you use, just make sure it has a strong adhesive. I had already done the Heater Treater blend door repair and all vacuum lines and motors were in good condition and passed the vacuum test. I will be getting the after market cabin filter from Geno's - I definitely recommend it. My evaporator core had lots of debris blocking air flow. My windshield and side windows now stay clear and the heater keeps the cab warm on the lowest settings. Success! - John
  2. I wired the intake manifold heater in my truck in the same manner right after I bought it in late 2001. I mounted a momentary switch on the steering column so it is very accessible and cannot be accidently left on. I don't mind the two codes that are set since I know what they are. My truck has been wired this way for over 280,000 miles and has never required any repairs. Mopar1973man makes a good point for those who live in areas that require vehicle inspections or emissions testing. - John
  3. Headlight options

    I would very much like to see some on-highway photos (low beam and high beam) of the light pattern from your truck's headlights. Hope you take the time to do that on one of your trips. - John
  4. Floor Board leak

    Dieselfuture is right on here. The factory evaporator drain on the firewall side does not have a downturn. So, when the seal between the AC housing and the firewall fails over time the condensation dripping from the drain follows the pipe right back into the passenger compartment. It took me awhile to figure this out because I thought it was from the windshield as well. I found a piece of preformed 90 degree heater hose the right size and pushed it onto the drain pipe. Problem solved - that was over two years ago. - John
  5. Radiator Shroud Modification

    Since there has been some interest in the heat blanket, here are more photos. All the pieces were installed in October, 2015 and have 42,000 miles of operation with no signs of deterioration. This product was expensive, but since I am keeping the truck for a long time, the decision was a good one. - John
  6. Radiator Shroud Modification

    The valve cover cover is a heat blanket developed by Advanced Thermal Products in Irvine, CA. It is custom fitted to the valve cover. I also so have the exhaust manifold, turbo charger (exhaust side), exhaust down pipe, and oil pan covered with the same material. This heat blanket is designed to easily withstand temperatures well above 2,000 degrees F., so the material does not deteriorate. The engine compartment runs considerably cooler, the seals in the exhaust brake vacuum cylinder don't get scorched, and the passenger side floor now stays cool when pulling a long grade on a hot day. My wife likes that. There are noise reduction benefits, as well. The raucous idle clatter is subdued when standing outside of the vehicle as well as when sitting inside or driving down the road with the windows up or down. My wife likes that, too. The purpose for covering the valve cover and oil pan was for engine noise reduction only. The purpose for covering the exhaust components was for heat reduction in the engine compartment. There was some noise reduction benefit, as well. - John
  7. I am tired of struggling to do repairs in that confined area between the front of the engine and the radiator shroud. I modified the top of my fan shroud and now the work area is very accessible - I should have done this a long time ago! The belt tensioner, water pump, and fan clutch are now very accessible, in fact I removed the belt and then the fan clutch assembly just so I could clean and inspect the fan blades. The work was very easy. I know that someone has probably already done this, but here are some photos anyway. I made the cut in a specific manner so there would not be any sharp corners when you reached into the work area. I used two zip ties on each side for easy removal and installation of the modified shroud top. Note that in the photo with the shroud top installed, the zip ties are not very conspicuous. - John
  8. 2001 cruise control

    My truck is a 2002 with a manual six speed transmission. I am not sure if your '01 truck will be the same. The wiring diagram for my truck shows that the ECM supplies the "speed control switch signal" and the PCM handles "sensor ground" and "speed control supply". I know that some of the circuit has to pass through the clutch switch and brake switch, as well. I would check these two areas first. The only problem I ever had with my cruise control was a broken power supply wire in a panel just below the steering wheel which was an easy fix. The broken wire was caused by lots of use of the tilt steering wheel. In my case I had code "0577 - cruise control switch voltage high" set. Do you have any codes set? Hope this helps. - John
  9. Blown grid heater relay??

    If you still have the parts, you may be able to do a close inspection and figure out whether you had a loose wire connection, or the contactor failed internally.. When inspecting the wire connection (after the damage has occurred) look at the copper eyelet, the two nuts, and the stud for extreme discoloration. Then make the same inspection where the contactor connects with the post. Whichever location shows the most evidence of an extreme heat source would likely be the problem area. Not an absolute method of troubleshooting, but usually the source of the problem can be detected. - John
  10. Okay, good to know. I know that one time I set duration to "6" and was not prompted that I was "out of range". The end result was that fueling was set to a minimum level and my truck ran like stock. It took me awhile to figure out my error. I think your testing method will have value. I will be most interested in the "lug down" performance since I have a manual six speed transmission. Because most of boost is lost during upshifts I will be interested in fueling performance with different torque management settings in the 1200 to 1400 rpm range - especially when towing. - John
  11. I have a question. I have always thought that choices of torque management, timing , and duration for the Smarty S03 were limited to the following selections: TM - 1 through 6 T - 1 through 4 D - 1 through 5 I notice that you show T "5" as a choice. Can someone shed some light on this. Are there updated software versions? Thank you, - John
  12. I purchased the Smarty S03 in April of 2016. I have used it for just over 30,0000 miles, about half of the miles towing. I concur that regardless of the SW setting, the timing setting becomes more advanced as you increase the timing number. It seems to me that timing "1" is at stock or very near stock. I can tell by the sound of the engine (idling or driving under light throttle) that timing is definitely advanced when I use higher timing numbers. Howerver, for example, if I have timing set at a higher number and I am driving with the engine under a load (around 1800 rpm) there seems to be no audible difference in the sound of the timing - maybe because there is a lot more fuel to be burned. I have never done any testing using timing set at "4" on any SW setting. When I first got the Smarty, I used SW1 with torque management, timing , and duration set at default (fuel economy mode) and the engine performed well (not as powerful as my SW5 settings) and fuel economy was very good - a 2 mpg gain. However, the timing rattle was very annoying. I would not be surprised if the default timing was at "4" on SW1 (only Brian from Smarty knows and he's not telling). Since heavy towing is not recommended by Smarty on default SW1 because of very advanced timing, I no longer use that setting, with one exception - one trip in Colorado towing 4,000 lb travel trailer at elevations of 8,0000 to 11,000 feet. The engine performed well (except for heavy smoke at low rpm's until turbo spooled) and fuel mileage was good, but I have always had better fuel mileage at high elevations no matter what vehicle I drove (I lived in Leadeville, Co for 12 years). I did notice that the timing rattle was quieter at the higher elevation. So at this point I have never tried a timing level of "4" on any SW settings mainly because of concern of harming the engine when towing. I also have never experimented with SW settings higher that SW5 because I still have my original factory clutch in the truck. I may be installing a new clutch this winter because I think the truck is showing symptoms of a pilot bearing beginning to fail. - John
  13. I have been following this thread and other threads on the topic of the Smarty S03 performance. I just want to thank all involved who are helping to get a better understanding of how the Smarty works. You have helped me greatly in experimenting with torque management, timing, and fuel duration. I , like others, have tried many combinations of settings and all I have to gauge performance is the "seat of the pants feel". I have studied the graphs that have been posted, but truthfully I don't have a good understanding of much of the data shown - although I think I do get some of it. I have mostly played around with SW3 and SW5. My truck has the stock 245 HP (505 lb/ft torque) engine with original injectors and turbo, and the six speed manual transmission. The VP44 was replaced under warranty over 12 years ago (at 87,000 miles on truck). So far there have been no problems with the replacement VP44 (now at 281,000 miles on truck). After much experimentation with the Smarty, I now keep timing at "1" (stock), mostly because the engine runs quietest on this setting and I haven't seen any significant better or worse performance with advanced timing (towing or empty). I believe that there is a definite difference between an automatic and a manual transmission when determining which settings to use. From reading these posts, it seems that changing settings on trucks with an automatic transmission affect shift points at certain rpm's and throttle position - fortunately this is one obstacle that I don't have to overcome. The area where I live is mostly less than 1000 feet in elevation. I have refined my settings to SW5, TM (3 or 4), timing 1, and duration 5. I use these settings when the truck is empty or towing. My towing is typically from 4,0000 lbs (travel trailer) to 10,0000 lbs (dump trailer). For me this setting gives strong performance delivering lots of fuel at low rpm's without detecting smoke (mirror method). From clutch engagement through upper mid-range rpm's, power comes on smoothly and early. Also, at this setting I don't have to be fussy about easing into the throttle to keep smoke output low. EGT maxes out at 1200 degrees on a long, hard pull. When towing my travel trailer at higher altitudes, typically from 3,0000 to 6,000, but sometimes up to 11,000 feet, I increase torque management by reducing the number from "3 or 4" to "2 or 3" to help with smoke. If I was to be driving a long distance at the highest altitudes I would consider advancing the timing (from "1" to "2") as well. If there is anything I can do, such as experiment with specific Smarty settings and report findings to help others, I would be very happy to do that. Again, I thank everyone for their perseverance in keeping this topic going. Nowhere on-line have I read such detailed information with well documented experiences. - John
  14. Lock up switch

    I removed the insulation from the PCM wire and soldered in the wire that I added. I brushed on a couple of coats of liquid electrical tape for water proofing and finished with regular electrical tape. I actually ran the added wire through a relay to a good ground contact and wired the foot switch to operate the relay. This step probably wasn't necessary, but I wanted to keep the tapped PCM wire separate from the foot switch wiring to protect the PCM from any possible unwanted electrical voltage. Let us know how everything turns out. - John
  15. Lock up switch

    I think that there is a definite benefit to having a momentary switch on the floor by the park brake. Just make sure the switch has a low profile and that it is durable and can be activated with light foot pressure. I had this setup on my 99 truck for 70,000 miles and I liked it very well. I used the lock-up feature in 3rd and 4th. With a little practice you can have smooth, quick manual upshifts from 3rd locked up to 4th locked up (unlocked during the shift) Once up to speed the floor switch no longer needs to be activated, but if you are accelerating after a curve or you are cresting a hill and don't want a downshift to occur you can just step on the switch and pour on the power without an unwanted downshift. Also, if you are pulling a grade in 4th gear and it is inevitable that a downshift will be needed, you can keep your foot on the switch and pull hard until the shift is required. Then ease up on the throttle, manually downshift while simultaneously releasing the foot switch and then quickly activate the foot switch when the converter locks up in 3rd gear. Again with a little practice you will find the shifting will be smooth. The foot switch can also be used to keep the converter locked up going down a grade, thus giving you a little hold-back power. When I had my 99 truck my foot switch (wired in series with a throttle switch) also operated an exhaust brake - a great combination. - John
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