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Tractorman last won the day on August 27

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    Baker City, Oregon

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  1. Interesting what you describe - I was having the same symptoms. I never considered an injector issue since the RV275 injectors were new when this started happening on my truck. One thing I didn't mention is that the miss would go away when I used cruise control, even when it was pulling hard in 6th gear climbing a long grade. That kind of threw me a curve. I wondered if the ECM altered timing when on cruise. It was the only thing that made sense at the time. So, now I am wondering if I got a new injector with low pop pressure right out of the box. Maybe I am masking the prob
  2. You are describing something very similar that happened to me. It did turn out to be an engine miss under the same driving conditions as you are describing. Mine started just after I installed RV275 injectors. I didn't notice it immediately because I wasn't driving anywhere to utilize the power. It showed up on my first tow (only pulling a 4,000 lb trailer), mostly when accelerating in 6th gear. It felt like when a gas engine has an irregular ignition miss and, like you say, I couldn't hear it but I could feel it under a load in the higher gears. For awhile I even thought it could be mec
  3. Your first post is dated Wednesday, but I never saw this post. Your post today showed up right away. Maybe others are having the same issue. I am sure you will be getting responses soon. This is a good site for your kind of questions - it is a good source for 24 valve second generation trucks in general. My truck is an '02 with the NV5600 and a stock clutch. I have the RV275 hp injectors and a Smarty S03. I don't tow as heavy as you, but the truck runs well and has been reliable. EGT's are always below 1200 degrees. Most of my driving is between 1500 - 2200 rpm.
  4. It would be interesting to see a photo of that fuse after that event occurred. What you have described is indicative of a poor electrical connection at a precise location, the fuse stud. It would also explain why the nearby fuse didn't break the circuit. Here is a possible scenario: Truck electrical system is consuming 60 amps. Poor connection at stud causes a 6 volt voltage drop at at the connection while alternator is flowing 60 amps (less than 1/2 alternator capacity) through the circuit. If a voltage drop test would be performed during the event, one might see 18 volts on
  5. @JAG1, you are describing a camper very similar to what I used to own. Mine was a four season Citation with basement made by General Coach in Canada. The manufacturer stated that the camper weighed 2700 lbs with 20 gallons of water and two full propane tanks. With our gear thrown in, it weighed about 3,500 lbs. Combined with the truck - about 11,000 lbs - 4,850 on the front and 6,150 on the rear. As suggested by others, you should weigh the rig. Weigh each axle separately and write the weights down. You will probably find that your front axle weight will increase only about
  6. Good suggestions and and questions that need to be answered from @AH64ID. One more question to add. Is your camper an all season camper with a basement? If so, this raises the center of gravity considerably. - John
  7. That is a great solution! I considered doing something like that when I had my slide-in camper. I should have done it, but I never followed through. I sold that camper about six years ago and bought a 19 foot travel trailer with a single slide. My GCW is now 12,000 lb (only 1,000 lb more than with slide-in camper) and I now have four braking axles and a low center of gravity - much more relaxing to tow. - John
  8. Am I missing something here? My truck empty: Front axle - 4,400 lb. Rear axle - 3,050 lb (air bags at 5 psi or less), 9000 series rancho shocks - rear on 3, front on 5 Gross weight - 7,450 lb My truck with slide-in camper: Front axle - 4,850 Rear axle - 6,150 (50 psi in air bags) 9000 series rancho shocks - rear on 8, front on 5 or 6 Gross weight - 11,000 lb With slide-in camper and 50 psi in the airbags, the truck handled well. If I recall, the rear part of the overload spring made contact and the front part had a sma
  9. Sounds like a faulty bridge to me. That was an attempt at humor. Actually, it seems that your solution was a good one. - John
  10. Just curious - did you find an obvious cause for the death wobble when you inspected and replaced those items? Or, was it more that they just looked like they needed replacement, so you replaced them? Just wondering because for many the death wobble has been hard to figure out. @Doubletrouble, be sure to let us know what you figure out. So far I have been fortunate and have never experienced the death wobble and I know that I am not exempt from it occurring to me. - John
  11. Death wobble can be hard to diagnose because there can be many causes and because the right conditions must be present to make it occur. Some things that I would be looking at.... Do you have oversize tires and wheels? Heavy rotating masses can enhance the triggering of death wobble. Has the truck been lifted? Are tires worn evenly? Every steering linkage joint and every suspension linkage joint should be inspected for looseness including shock absorber mounts and shock absorber condition. Sometimes minor play or wear on multiple components can t
  12. I didn't know the overflow valve was made both ways. It would be an interesting test to see if the results were different. - John
  13. I believe the small hole is for venting air such as after a fuel filter change when using the bump start feature. I also believe that when the engine is running at any rpm and if lift pump pressure is below 14 psi that the overflow valve is still in full operation because the lift pump feeds directly into the inlet of the positive displacement internal vane pump. The flow out of the vane pump is regulated at a much higher pressure and is in common with the 14 psi overflow valve as well as other components inside the VP44. It is my belief that as soon as the engine starts, the 14 psi overfl
  14. Let us know what you find.... don't leave us hangin'! - John
  15. It seems to me that there are three possible things to try.... 1. Replace the overflow valve - usually I don't recommend parts changing, but sometimes when diagnostic tools are not available, changing an inexpensive is a good solution. 2. Test the overflow following Mike's procedure. 3. Install a temporary mechanical gauge and strap it to the windshield wiper arm and test drive for a day or two. This should confirm whether or not you regular gauge is giving you reliable data. Typically, the overflow valve is fairly bullet proof. - John
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