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Tractorman last won the day on May 28

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About Tractorman

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    Scotts Mills, Oregon

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  1. I have been told the opposite - that the six speed transmissions are stronger. I have a NV5600 with 320,000 miles on it and it has been trouble free and still operates like it is new. I tow frequently (12,500 - 17,000 lbs gross combined weight). The six speed does solve you "missing gear" problem. It seems to me that a six speed transmission and your 4:10 gears would be a great match for your towing and mountain grade issues. - John
  2. I am having the same problem when I try to post. I put the same radiator in my truck last March, 13,000 miles ago. It seems to be doing its job well. Most of the miles have been towing throughout the summer months over lots of mountain grades. - John
  3. Interesting. My radiator had the same failure at 309,000 miles. I guess we can't complain - that is a lot of trouble free miles. - John
  4. If your hard starting truck is a '99 (as in the signature), then you will have better luck with help if you post in the 2nd Generation category. If the truck is hard starting when pointed uphill, then there is likely to be some fuel draining back to the tank while the truck is parked and not running. A small fuel leak can let air in, but not necessarily offer a visual fuel leak. Do you mean that you have to hold the key on for 10-15 seconds before the starter starts cranking? or do you mean the starter is cranking, but it is 10-15 seconds before the engine starts firing? This is an important clarification. Usually "turning over" means starter is cranking, but engine is not firing. - John
  5. @Mopar1973Man, I think @Evanis referring to the 12 valve engine here. - John
  6. I replaced my APPS with a Timbo (my truck has a manual transmission) and I seem to recall that there was a note about the Timbo not having an idle validation switch to control additional after-market devices, such as an exhaust brake. I don't know this for sure, but it is something that you may want to check out. - John
  7. All turbos have some play when they are stationary. To correctly assess for excessive side to side movement, you would need to have one hand on the compressor wheel and the other hand on the turbine wheel and then move the shaft side to side without rocking it. Moving the shaft from only one end will give you misleading results because you are rocking the shaft like a teeter totter with the bearing being the fulcrum. My guess is that your turbo is fine if there are no witness marks showing contact of the shaft to the housing. I have 316,000 miles on the OEM turbo and it does not feel any different now then when it was new when I check for play. - John
  8. @dave110, thanks for your response. I would expect to see reduced voltage to the lift pump (consequently lower fuel pressure) even if the relay doesn't cycle because there woud be significantly reduced voltage to all electrical components (including the lift pump) during engine cranking. My question is: Does anyone know if the ECM controlled relay actually makes the relay contacts cycle rapidly to reduce fuel pressure? - John
  9. I agree with @dripleyregarding the key on scenario - about one-half second. I am not so sure about the performance of the ECM modulating the output voltage to the lift pump during engine cranking when a relay is involved. With the OEM fueling system the ECM modulates the lift pump directly, so I can see how that would provide reduced voltage to the lift pump. But, with the ECM modulating the voltage to a relay coil, I am having a hard time believing that the mechanical portion of the relay would be rapidly opening and closing its contacts to reduce voltage to the lift pump. It would seem that the relay contacts would have a very short life if this is so. I can see a reduced voltage to the lift pump with or without a relay during cranking just because battery voltage will be reduced to around 10.5 volts during cranking. That alone will reduce the rpm's of the lift pump which would result in a lower pressure reading while cranking. Can anyone demonstrate proof that a lift pump relay controlled by the ECM actually does reduce pressure by rapidly turning the lift pump off and on? @Leaky88, your wiring diagram looks like it should work to keep the lift pump out of the loop while cranking the engine. - John
  10. Sounds like your failure was identical to mine. About 1/3 of the pilot shaft bearing area was worn to undersize on my transmission input shaft. I elected to not replace the transmission input shaft (right or wrong) since I am my own warranty station. The rest of the transmission is in excellent condition for 300,000 miles. My next scheduled clutch replacement will be at 200,000 miles of operation - not 297,000 miles like the first time. Hopefully I will make it 200,000 miles without transmission problems. I have 316,000 miles on the truck now and so far, so good. - John
  11. I used two ratcheting straps to secure the transmission to the transmission jack. I think in your case the ratcheting straps would work well. - John
  12. @dripley, the Napa part number is NCF 1105179. The clutch and pressure plate were Luk stock replacement (organic disc). I chose to stay with stock because the original truck was run with the Smarty tuner for about 50,000 miles with no issues. The Luk replacement clutch now has logged 17,000 miles with the Smarty (11,000 of those miles with the Smarty and RV275 injectors). Most of the miles logged are towing. The trailers I tow usually weigh in at 4,000 lbs to 8,000 lbs. These are real weights as I use scales to weigh axles during trips. I occasionally tow 10,000 lb loads usually less than 20 miles. My trip from Salem to Baker City using Hwy 22 and 26 crosses over six mountain passes (6% to 7% grades). Most of these passes I pull in 6th gear at about 60 mph. I drop to 5th to slow for curves or traffic in some areas. So far, the clutch has been operating flawlessly with no indication of slipping - just like the old Luk OEM clutch. - John
  13. My original clutch lasted for 297,000 miles. The clutch didn't fail - the pilot bearing did. As hindsight, I now know that I should have done the clutch job around about 250,000 miles because when the pilot bearing failed (same symptoms as yours), it damaged the pilot bearing surface of the transmission input shaft - a very expensive item to replace. I chose not to replace the transmission input shaft, but the new pilot bearing may now have a shorter life because of the damage. I replaced the clutch disc, pressure, flywheel, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing. I used a new Luk clutch assembly from Napa. I am still running the original clutch hydraulics. So far, so good at 314,000 miles. Because of my experience, I recommend that you do a full clutch job now, before more potential damage has a chance to occur. - John - John
  14. The 175 lb/ft is not preloading a bearing. This torque is securing the splined axle shaft through the hub assembly by clamping the inner bearing races to the machined shoulder of the splined axle shaft. No forces on the bearings. Not sure what's going on with your vibration. Did you have any vibration before you replaced the rotors? - John
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