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Tractorman

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Tractorman last won the day on January 25

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    Baker City, Oregon

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  1. A good read. I didn't realize just how diversified Echlin is. - John
  2. I believe he means Echlin. They are a major brand name in electrical components. - John
  3. After doing a bit more reading, the HY35 turbo may spool better in that dead zone just because it has a smaller exhaust housing. However, exhaust gas temperatures may run hotter under higher rpm loads than the HX35 I guess you will find out when you make the exchange. - John
  4. What is the read axle gear ratio? It is not listed in your signature. It matters. Clearfield, Utah is above 4,000 ft elevation. - much lower air density than at sea level. Most turbochargers are out of their efficiency zones at low engine rpm, especially at higher elevations. Things that will negatively affect getting a turbocharger to spool up under a heavy load.: * 3.54:1 axle ratio vs. 4.10:1 axle ratio * low stall torque converter * 4,000 ft elevation * 2.21 reverse gear ratio vs 2.45 1st gear ratio You may not be experiencing the
  5. First gear ratio is 2.45:1, reverse gear is 2.21:1. Reverse gear provides less torque to the rear wheels. What is your rear axle ratio? I am guessing 3.54:1. I think you may be correct about this - especially if your rear axle ratio is 3.54:1. I also think that the HX35 turbo would be more suited for the low stall converter than the HY35 turbo. The HX35 should spool earlier in rpm's under load so it would be a better match with a low stall speed torque converter. - John
  6. I think your fan clutch will work fine. There were probably a couple of gremlins living in it while it was on the shelf. They will quickly jump into your wiring harness now that you have installed the fan clutch. In fact, I think they already have, since you mentioned the fan clutch now seems to be working fine. - John
  7. Also, an indicator for left hand thread. I believe the fan clutch nut is marked in this manner. I think I learned this from this site some time ago. - John
  8. I bought one from Geno's 6 years ago and 135,000 miles ago. It is still working fine. I thought my OEM fan wasn't operating properly, but it turned out that it was fine. The dirty oily mess in the in the center of the radiator was the problem. @dripley, I think the steady coolant temperature reading your are seeing after the clutch fan permanently locked up would be expected. There is now a much more stable flow of air passing through the radiator all of the time which equates to less temperature swing, which means the thermostat can regulate the coolant temperature easier.
  9. But, if you would have broken a belt halfway back from the moon, you really would have been glad you had the old one under the back seat..., just sayin' - John
  10. I agree that you cannot prepare for everything, but one extra step I take is to remove the serpentine belt and spin all of the accessory pulleys. Check for excessive shaft movement or rough bearings. I even modified the top of the fan shroud to make the belt removal and inspection easy. My brother-in-law's 2003 truck was slated for a long trip, so I showed him what to be looking for. It turned out that the fan hub bearing was very rough when rotated by hand. Couldn't feel it or hear with the truck running. That could have been an expensive catastrophic failure. - John
  11. I am curious as to where that switch would be mounted (just for my own information), whether it is at the throttle in the cab or by the APPS in the engine compartment. I have an older style vacuum operated PacBrake that I wired in myself. I did not use a throttle switch or a clutch switch. I relayed the solenoid valve and the relay is operated with a momentary foot switch that I mounted on the floor right beside where my left foot rests. This setup makes it not very likely to operate the throttle and the exhaust brake at the same time. However, if the PacBrake micro switch would be a reli
  12. I may not be able to help much here, but if you answer some questions, others may be able to help. Is the air solenoid for the PacBrake valve controlled by a relay? If so, is it your intention to have the ECM wired to the coil of the relay so that the ECM determines when the engine is at idle and allows for the exhaust brake to work? Does PacBrake provide detailed information (such as theory of operation) as to how the system is intended to work? I don't know what Pin #20 from the ECM's job is. I just went through my factory service manual wiring diagrams and
  13. Don't skip the step of checking battery voltage while the engine is running as outlined in my previous post. It is a basic step, but it is important. Let us know the results. - John
  14. I don't know where the scanner senses system voltage, so I would use a regular DVM and check voltage at each battery. Should be right around 14.0 volts - a little higher if ambient temperature is low and a little lower if ambient temperature is high. Each battery should be within about .03 volts of each other. - John
  15. Wow! I had no idea! Sorry for that suggestion. When I increased the caster on my truck, I just cranked the adjustment to make the the lower control arm longer, almost to the maximum setting. I just guessed. I had to make a couple of minor adjustments to allow for the crown of the road. When I had it like I wanted, I could let go of the steering wheel and the truck would track very slightly to the right over a long distance.. Of course, in the UK it would be to the left! Then I had it checked at an alignment shop just to have a record (4.5° positive both sides). It is unfortunate that
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