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Tractorman last won the day on August 7

Tractorman had the most liked content!

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    Scotts Mills, Oregon

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  1. Tractorman

    Time for a clutch

    The HYDX1-50 is the complete hydraulic setup (master cylinder, slave cylinder, and hydraulic line - all pre-filled). It comes with an adjustable linkage to lengthen the master cylinder push rod, if necessary. You may not need the adjustable feature, but if your new clutch engages with the clutch pedal real close the floor, you will be glad that you have this adjustment available. If you decide to use this part, set the initial adjustment to match your old master cylinder push rod setup. If your new clutch engages and disengages properly (like the old one did), then there is no need to change the adjustment. I understand your concern here, but I think that you were very fortunate that your old hydraulics worked well with your new clutch. My experience is limited to only three clutch replacements - a 2007 6.7 liter 6spd, a 2006 5.9 liter 6spd (both dual-mass flywheel conversions), and my own truck (a stock replacement). In all three cases, the existing clutch hydraulic system was not adequate to fully release the clutch - the 2006 and 2007 being the worst. These two truck required the kit with the adjustable linkage. My truck is okay, but the clutch engagement occurs too close to the floor for my liking, so I will probably get the Soutbend clutch hydraulic kit with the adjustable linkage. - John
  2. Tractorman

    Time for a clutch

    Southbend's part # HYDX1-50 has an adjustable pedal feature. This is important as the OEM and other aftermarket non-adjustable pedal clutch hydraulics will likely frustrate you because they probably will not have enough stroke with the new clutch parts. - John
  3. This seems logical, but I have always wondered that with so many gears rotating and flinging oil everywhere, could the OEM vent be overwhelmed? It would seem that a tappet cover vent would be in a lesser turbulent environment and would have less oil entering the vent so it could do its job better. Just my thoughts. - John
  4. This is what I want to do. I was just wondering if someone else has already done that and if they are happy with the results. - John I agree that a vent is a vent, unless one style separates oil from the vapors more efficiently. This is why I was wondering if the tappet cover vent may be a better solution. Thanks for the tip on the stock fuel pump bracket. I would probably trim the bracket as you did since I have a frame mounted lift pump. - John
  5. Can you tell if one breather is more oil-free than the other? I like the idea of using only the tappet cover vent if it works equally as well or better than the factory vent just to get rid of the additional plumbing to extend the factory vent. - John
  6. Thank you, appreciate you doing that. - John
  7. Did you actually wait 24 hours for the silicone to cure and THEN tighten the bolts? Or did you re-tighten (re-torque) the bolts 24 hours later? Just trying to get clarification on your procedure, because if the bolts weren't tightened when you installed the cover, then tightening the bolts 24 hours later (after the silicone cured) would likely cause a leak. So you are actually running two breathers on your engine. I would be very interested to know if the tappet cover breather stays dry. - John
  8. I have a related question to ask about the tappet cover. I have done the oil crankcase breather mod similar to Mopar1973Man's, but I still get some oil dripping out of the tube. It has always dripped the same amount of oil since it was new. I have seen aluminum tappet covers and 12 valve factory tappet covers advertised that have integrated the crankcase breather and vent into the tappet cover. Has anyone installed either setup on a 24 valve engine and did it stop oil from dripping out of the new crankcase vent tube? 3979-01dodge24v59, I don't mean to hijack your post, but maybe we both an get answers to of our questions here. - John
  9. Tractorman

    Well the Order is in

    Sounds like is time to put it all behind you and enjoy your new truck! - John
  10. Tractorman

    Mystery tube

    Whew! For awhile I thought I was being taken too seriously. I ran your idea by my wife - she said, "Install the RV injectors!". I guess I will just have to risk the chance the vacuum hose will pop off. - John
  11. Tractorman

    Mystery tube

    So the vacuum line pops off when you install RV275 injectors. Does this happen when you install other injectors? I need to know because I have a set of RV275 injectors to install. The vacuum pump is gear driven and is attached to the front gear cover just below the fuel injection pump. The power steering pump is piggy-backed onto the vacuum pump. Follow the power steering hose from the brake booster to the power steering pump which is attached to the back of the vacuum pump. - John
  12. Tractorman

    Mystery tube

    It is likely a vacuum line, which would explain why you can't change your mode settings. Without a vacuum source, the HVAC system will default to defrost mode. Start at the vacuum pump location and follow the lines up to the firewall (near the top part of your photo). You should be able to find the other disconnected part. - John
  13. When I check tire, brake, or bearing temps by feel on road trips, I am not looking for a specific temperature - I am looking for a different temperature between like objects doing the same duty, for example: one front hub bearing being considerably warmer than the other front hub bearing. - John
  14. This has been an interesting read. I am now at 297,000 miles with original non-greased hub bearings. So, should I go to the trouble of greasing them, or should I just replace them? On road trips I routinely check the hub temps by feel, especially on the interstate - I will pull into a rest area using only the exhaust brake and gears to get down to 10 mph and then feel the hub temperature after I have parked. Now I wonder if I should be more concerned after reading the reports of sudden bearing failures. Did anyone happen to do routine hub checks for heat prior to their sudden bearing failure? - John
  15. Since the very tip of the pilot shaft did not receive any damage, a sleeve would not fit over it. I think that in order for a sleeve to work, some machining would have to be done to reduce the diameter of the whole bearing area on the pilot shaft. - John