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Tractorman last won the day on January 25

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  1. Thanks for the clarification. I will have to check these wires on my truck. I hope you have fixed the problem. Keep us posted. - John
  2. As long as your suction lines are unobstructed, you will not get cavitation. The only way to get a specific pressure reading would be to temporarily tee in a test port on the suction side of the lift pump and hook up a vacuum gauge. This test is normally unnecessary because there are other ways to prove that fuel is flowing without restriction. - John
  3. So, are you saying the individual wires are showing bare copper? Or, are you saying the individual wires are still insulated, but the sheathing doesn't quite extend to the end? - John
  4. Could you post a photo of the specific location you are referring to? - John
  5. Maybe nobody wants to mention this because you asked not to be beat up for your decisions. I am not beating you up, either. Just wanted you to know that driving until the oil pressure gauge begins to drop means that the oil pump is beginning to pump air along with the oil because the oil level is so low. Engine bearings and the turbocharger bearing would be suffering under those conditions. Hopefully, no measurable damage was done. I would never consider installing an air separation system on my fuel system. I have never seen any real proof that it would beneficial enough t
  6. Actually, that is not weird at all, in fact it is normal when there is stray voltage interfering with electronic components. For example, the PCM receives inputs (some wanted and some not) and makes decisions based on these inputs, such as when the torque converter should be locked or unlocked. When stray voltage influences these inputs, the PCM temporarily keeps track of them and determines whether or not to use them or discard them. If the stray voltage signals are frequent enough in a specific time period, the PCM will use these inputs along with the wanted inputs and make decisions acc
  7. Are you saying that you cannot turn the steering wheel at all? Or, are saying that you can turn the steering wheel a ways either direction and then it stops. If it is the former, then there is definitely something wrong. It could be many things - a relief pressure setting too low, something binding in the steering linkage, a stiff suspension ball joint, a faulty spool valve in the steering gearbox, etc. If it is the latter, then yes, it could be normal. As far as the power steering pump making noise when it is very cold outside, vane pumps are notorious for making a groaning n
  8. This is just a personal opinion, but I think the power steering system on our generation of Dodge Rams is pushed to the limits from an engineering point of view. Years ago when I would design hydraulic systems for custom applications, I would always look at the maximum required force and maximum required speed of the system. I would then design the system to perform at 15% higher pressure and flow so that the system would never reach relief pressures or have the operation slow down under normal operating conditions. I don't think the engineers did that with our power steering sy
  9. @wil440, this is a very good example of why resistance checks using an ohmmeter and visual checks are not reliable for diagnosing electrical problems The ohmmeter just tells you there is a connection, but does not tell you anything about the quality of the connection - same with the visual check. I am glad you stayed with it and went back to the problem ground wire connection. - John
  10. This is more very good information for diagnostics. This confirms that a large amount of current was flowing from the battery to the alternator. The glowing bolt confirms that the specific connection was a very poor connection - one with high resistance. The fuse did not blow because even though the current flow was high, it was still below the fuse rating. The rest of the wiring and connections were likely good because they did not get hot and handled the amperage load properly. This test has absolutely zero value for high current applications. Perform a simple test
  11. @JAG1, this is very good detailed information which may help diagnose your failing alternators. I need to confirm - are you talking about the fuse you installed in the charge wire to the passenger side battery. I am assuming that you are. There is no mystery about the glowing bolt. The glowing bolt scene is telling you something very specific and emphasizes the importance of a good electrical connection. Just because a connector is tight does not mean the connector has a good electrical connection. This is also why I do not rely on physical inspections wh
  12. Thank you for acknowledging and posting the fact that solenoids didn't fail in the closed position. I was having trouble understanding how a solenoid failing in the closed position would not discharge your batteries rapidly while the truck was shut off and to not see a low dash voltage gauge reading while the truck was running. So, is it correct to assume at this time that you have had two alternator failures with unknown causes? - John
  13. @dripley, this may be a place to start. This is the operational description of the voltage gauge from my 2002 repair manual. This may at least explain why your problem corrected itself for now. Hope this helps, - John Operation The voltage gauge gives an indication to the vehicle operator of the electrical system voltage. This gauge is controlled by the instrument cluster circuit board based upon the cluster programming and electronic messages received by the cluster from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) over the Chrysler Collision Dete
  14. Even if the output wire of the alternator is routed to the battery with the battery temperature sensor and that battery has a shorted cell, the battery temperature sensor will not stop the alternator from doing what it is commanded. From the example I gave previously: the shorted cell demands 50 amps (this time the driver side battery), the rest of the electrical system demands 25 amps (75 amps total). Let's say the battery temperature sensor tells the PCM to target for 13.8 volts. At the moment the alternator will be commanded by the electronic voltage regulator inside the PCM
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