Jump to content


Gold Donor
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Tractorman last won the day on November 13 2017

Tractorman had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

53 Unskilled

Personal Information

  • Location
    Scotts Mills, Oregon

Recent Profile Visitors

194 profile views
  1. How to heat my shop?

    I have a shop heated with a wood stove and I work in it almost every day. The shop is considerably smaller than yours, but the idea is still the same. The shop is 36’ x 30’ with 14’ eve walls and a 17’ peak. There is also a 200 square foot room with a 10’ ceiling attached. The total shop area is just under 1300 square feet. The building is a pole barn style (girts and purlins) with metal roof and metal walls. For the ceiling (roof) insulation, I have R25 fiberglass batts placed between the 2 x 8 purlins (24” on center) covered with white plastic sheeting. For the walls, I contstructed 2 x 4 inner walls (16” on center) which provided space for 5 ½” fiberglass batts for insulation (the extra 1 ½ inches of space came from the width of the girts). I covered the wall studs with OSB sheeting so I could hang anything on the walls anywhere I wanted. I also installed a commercial ceiling fan about three feet down from the peak of the ceiling. The woodstove came from my house when I upgraded to a larger woodstove in the house. The woodstove in the shop is a Regency 2400 series with a 75,000 BTU capacity. I also live in the Pacific northwest (the Willamette Valley in western Oregon). I can tell you that on a day that barely makes the freezing mark, I can easily keep my shop at 70 degrees. The air is always dry, even when you walk in first thing in the morning. The ceiling fan is a must; I reduced my firewood use about one-third after I installed it. Also, the ceiling fan makes the temperature throughout the shop much more uniform. I know that you are trying to do something for the interim, but with the size of the building you have, I think I would put all my energy toward the final product. I think I would get the walls and ceiling to at least an R21 rating, otherwise the shop will be difficult to heat no matter which choice of heating source. If you use portable propane or kerosene heaters for the interim, you will be adding moisture to the air. That heated air with the added moisture will likely condense on objects far away from the source of heat. - John
  2. Well the Order is in

    I will be replacing mine very soon as a maintenance item - no sense in taking a chance for unnecessary damage. You must have treated your clutch right! I see by your signature that you have a six speed. What brand is your replacement clutch and how do you like it? - John
  3. Well the Order is in

    So far I have 288,000 miles on my original factory clutch. How many miles do you think you will get from your original factory dual mass flywheel? Sorry..., I just had to ask. Enjoy your new ride! Will you still help us out with questions about our ancient trucks? - John
  4. 13766-180HP. It must be the 180 horsepower alternator for the V6 Cummins 24 valve. - John
  5. High amp alternator

    I have also wondered why I have not experienced some of the electrical problems that many others have. I bought my truck new and right away I put the grid heaters on a manual control switch. I very rarely use the heaters. And, like you, my alternator (a Bosch) has never given me trouble. I replaced brushes and bearings (only for maintenance, the alternator was working fine) three years ago at 216,000 miles. I am currently at 285,000 miles and the alternator passes your AC voltage test. I never tested for AC output until I came across your website and I will be keeping a close eye from now on. - John
  6. A/C leaking

    That's the trouble with this site - lots of information tossed around about the beer, but no information of any value; like, where is the beer and who is bringing it? - John
  7. A/C leaking

    I understand your dilemma here. If you replace a component and then recharge the system with refrigerant and it slowly leaks out, you will have three choices: go to an AC shop to recover the remaining refrigerant (the best solution, but costs money), wait for the remaining refrigerant to leak out (could be a long time), or intentionally dump the remaining refrigerant into the atmosphere (an environmental no-no). This same issue is what got me to start looking for a used R134A refrigerant recovery machine. I found a used Snap-on ECO 134 A for $650. It came with a new 30 lb tank full of R134A and a 20 lb recovery tank, lots of AC parts, seals, gaskets, tools, etc. This particular machine recovers, filters, and recharges refrigerant. It has a very accurate digital scale that measures refrigerant in ounces for recovery and recharging purposes. It is capable of collecting and releasing non-condensable gases and has an oil separator. It also comes with a vacuum pump for removing non-condensable gases, moisture, and for performing the leak test. When I was looking for a recovery machine I actually ran across two of this specific model Snap-on machine - the second one went for $250 (it had no extras). So, there are good used recovery machines out there and they cost a lot less than I expected. For me the refrigerant recovery machine has given me peace of mind because I now do not have to worry about the high cost of repairs and I can keep all of my vehicles charged with the proper amount of refrigerant at the beginning of each summer season. - John
  8. A/C leaking

    How many miles on the AC components, especially the compressor? Last spring I had some of the same concerns that you had. I knew I had a refrigerant leak, but I didn't have any means to find it. I ended up buying a used Snapon 134A recovery machine at a reasonable price. Since my truck had the original Denso AC compressor still on it with over 260,000 miles, I decided to change it out with a new Denso unit. I then pulled a vacuum on the system; it passed the test so I recharged the system with 30 oz of refrigerant. I drove the truck for 600 miles and then recovered the refrigerant. I pulled out 30 oz, so I knew I had found the leak. Later, this fall I replaced the heater core. Again, I recovered 30 oz of refrigerant confirming that I had found the leak. When I replaced the heater core, I did not replace the evaporator core because it looked to be in very good condition. Time will tell whether or not I made a good decision. So, if you have high mileage on an original compressor, I would start there. The condenser would be the next likely place if it has never been protected by a screen. I believe that the o-ring connections on all of the line fittings are pretty reliable since there are two o-rings on each fitting. I have read that some people have had evaporator core failures. I would suspect these failures could be from some rubbing in the housing or from debris packing into the core since the evaporator core is the first place unfiltered air comes into contact with after passing through the blower fan. - John
  9. Smoke and runs rough

    Since you just installed the engine, I would check all air intake connections for the charge air circuit for boost leaks from the turbocharger outlet to the air intake plenum on the engine. - John
  10. Brake HydroBooster Rebuild

    Excellent write-up! ... and complete with photos and wrench sizes. I know that I will have to address this at some point in time due to the age and miles on my truck. This is the kind of information owners of older trucks need to help keep repair costs down. Thank you. - John
  11. Crossing Headlights

    It is true - there is no horizontal adjustment. My guess is that there has been some minor body damage on the left front side or right front side of your vehicle and that damage has misaligned one of your headlights. With your low beams on at night, can you tell which headlight is aimed correctly and which one is out of whack? It is likely that only one headlight is the problem. When you make this check, do it when it is not foggy. Thick fog can distort what you see. First make sure that you have the correct bulbs and that they are installed properly. Then inspect the area around each headlight to see if any of the headlight fixture's fasteners are loose, out of place, bent, broken, or missing. Worst case scenario is that you may have to take some things apart and reshape some body parts to correct the alignment. - John
  12. So I made a decision

    I did do something similar back in 1988. I wanted a pickup or a van with a diesel engine and I became very frustrated at the choices available at the time. Choices like a heavy V8 engine, no turbocharger (really!), three speed transmission, all accompanied with lots of noise, smoke, high rpms and … no power! Just what I wanted. So, in the spring of 1988 I purchased a new Cummins 4BTA engine kit and put the engine in my 1984 Ford E150 van with a factory 4 spd manual overdrive transmission. I drove with this configuration for 87,000 miles (by then I had 212,000 on the vehicle). I lived in Leadville, Colorado (elevation 10,000 ft) at the time. With the Cummins engine, I could drive up a 7% grade at 65 mph in overdrive, and still accelerate! And no smoke! I was a happy camper. The van had two factory fuel tanks, one 18 gallons, the other 22 gallons. On one occasion after driving back and forth from home to work for a week (50 mile round trip) and then going on vacation traveling on top of the Grand Mesa pulling a small trailer with two ATV’s, I drove just over 1,000 miles without refueling. I netted just over 29 mpg on that fill-up. In 1991 I bought a new Ford F150 Extended Cab 4X4 and immediately swapped in the Cummins engine. Everybody thought I was nuts. I drove that truck for over 200,000 miles and then sold it. I kept fuel logs for over 100,000 miles of driving. The overall fuel mileage for the first 100,000 miles ( which including all driving and idling) averaged out to 22.5 mpg. It was a great engine! My next vehicle was a new 1999 Dodge with a Cummins. Somebody finally did it right! - John
  13. Purpose of lockup switch

    My 6 spd manual transmission locks up in every gear, even reverse! However, it is very annoying the way you have to unlock it - you can't just flip a switch. If you don't unlock it during shifts, it makes grinding noises. - John
  14. Purpose of lockup switch

    Here is a different way to look at it. Let's say the truck is going down a grade at 1700 rpm's with the torque converter locked up, no throttle input from the operator, and the truck's speed is being held constant with just the friction of the engine being forced to run at that rpm (the drag). If the torque converter is switched to unlock, the engine rpm's will fall immediately, not increase. The falling engine rpm will reduce engine braking. The truck will begin to accelerate. I have no experience with Toyota transmission controls, but I am guessing that there is more going on than just unlocking the torque converter. - John
  15. Purpose of lockup switch

    IBMobile and I are saying the same thing. I hope we are not being included in the "you guys have it wrong" part. - John