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Tractorman last won the day on January 14

Tractorman had the most liked content!

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    Scotts Mills, Oregon

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  1. Tractorman

    2000rpm max and no codes.

    To rephrase what @Mopar1973Man is saying: 10 mv AC, 30 mv AC, 50 mv AC, and 100 mv AC would be saying the same thing as .010 v AC, .030 v AC, .050 v AC, and .100 v AC respectively. So, if @2001white's meter is showing .57 mv, that would be the same as .00057 v AC. That seems a bit off the scale to me, but I may not be reading his meter correctly. - John If this isn't confusing enough, let me know so that I can make it more confusing.
  2. Tractorman

    High Pitched "Cricket" Buzz

    Don't rule out a boost leak. I have heard boost leaks that have a reed sound (like in a musical instrument). In two cases the cause was a broken hose clamp and the reed-like sound was coming from the vibrating hose end under certain boost conditions. Some of the symptoms you have described could match that of a boost leak. - John
  3. Your perseverance in tracking down the correct solution without getting sidetracked is nothing short of amazing! Excellent troubleshooting! And thank you for the clarity in explaining your diagnostic steps along the way. - John
  4. A few years ago I installed a Borgeson steering shaft and a Borgeson steering box and no modifications were necessary. From what I recall, if a Borgeson box was installed on an OEM shaft, then a flat spot needed to be ground on the adapter that came with the Borgeson steering box (no grinding on the steering box input shaft). Do you have an OEM steering box with the flat spot on the shaft? If so, I think you can just install the Borgeson steering shaft. Note: Check the operation of the slip yoke on the Borgeson shaft before installation. It must slide easily! If it does not you will have hard to diagnose steering problems and set screws will come loose. Believe me, this is true - it took me 25,000 miles of driving to figure it out. - John
  5. Tractorman

    9004 to 9007

    I believe a standard 9004 bulb is 45/65 watts. I never thought that a non-relayed headlight circuit accompanied with long runs of undersized wiring and topped off with a super powerful 45 watt low beam bulb was a very bright idea to light up the road. - John
  6. Tractorman

    Smarty S03: Tuning & Testing of Can-bus Fueling

    I changed the settings to SW5 - TM5, T3, D3 as you suggested. I drove a 100 mile round trip to Vancouver, WA and back yesterdy (truck only). Half of the trip was freeway and the other has was secondary roads. The truck drove better than with the previous settings. Good power through the operating rpm range. Two things were very noticeable. One, there was less smoke and better turbo response from the 1200 rpm range and up. I definitely liked that. The other was when I was maintaining a road speed at 40 mph in sixth gear at 1200 rpm the engine was smooth in transmitting power, something that has not occurred at that speed and engine rpm since I installed the RV275 injectors. So, for now this will be my new tune - thanks for the suggestion; I don't think I would have thought of that combination. I am going to use this tune when taking the travel trailer to Crescent City next week. Oh, it did pick up a little more timing rattle, but I can live with that. - John
  7. Tractorman

    Smarty S03: Tuning & Testing of Can-bus Fueling

    Okay, I will give SW5 a try and do your SW9 cruise control test as well. Thanks for breaking down each topic with your responses. I will be leaving for the Crescent City trip on the 14th of February and returning the following weekend. - John
  8. Tractorman

    Smarty S03: Tuning & Testing of Can-bus Fueling

    @pepsi71ocean and @Tittle Diesel Performance, I have learned quite a bit from the back and forth talk regarding the Smarty S03. I think there are more people using the Smarty S03 with automatic transmissions than there are with manual transmissions. It seems to me that getting the truck up to speed from a stop with a manual transmission would require different performance settings from the Smarty than an automatic transmission would require in the same situation. For the automatic transmission, getting the truck up to speed from a stop the transmission has the advantage of torque converter slippage and torque multiplication allowing for faster throttle response, thus quicker turbo spool-up and also the advantage of allowing the turbo to maintain boost during upshifts because the throttle does not have to be released during the shift. The downside seems to be that automatics need more torque management down low in rpm's and the Smarty software settings affect shift points. Also, a Smarty tune for getting the truck up to speed may not necessarily be a good tune for when the torque converter locks up in 3rd and 4th gear. So from my perspective of operating a six speed manual transmission when towing, these two items are very important to me: * High engine torque at low rpm's. I want to have high engine torque performance starting from around 1300 rpm range on up to around 2100 rpm. I use progressive shifting so the first two or three upshifts I only rev the engine to about 1500 rpm and then upshift because the gears offer so much engine torque multiplication that higher engine rpms are unnecessary. I progressively go to higher engine rpm's as I continue to upshift the transmission which eventually allows the selected gear to fall in at around 1600 rpm (peak torque). With this in mind, I set the Smarty's torque management setting to the highest setting to remove all torque management at low rpm's. I would rather control fuel with my foot to get the turbo to spool up earlier than lose the torque on an upshift because of torque management. * A responsive throttle. Using the throttle to match engine rpm's to road speed during gear shifts requires a responsive and predictable throttle. Again, by removing the Smarty's torque management (highest setting), the throttle operation is predictable. Also, and although I am not absolutely certain, it seems that the throttle is more touchy at higher software levels on the Smarty, consequently I use a lower software level (SW3). Just for clarification, I don't pull grades at 1300 rpm, but that is a good rpm to pickup vehicle speed in the lower gears quickly and smoothly, and the engine is very responsive to the load. @pepsi71ocean, were you able to view the videos? And, here is the Smarty S03 version number that I am running: V: 1.26C D:R12A With all this in mind I will be towing to Crescent City and back at 12,500 lbs gross combined weight. I will be using the SW3 - TM6, T2, D2 settings. @pepsi71ocean, do you still want me to do a SW9 - TM6, T4, D2 test with cruise control? - John
  9. This has been an interesting read. @pepsi71ocean, I agree with @Mopar1973Man in that timing rattle is easily detected audibly when timing is advanced with the Smarty S03 to the T3 and especially the T4 setting. The difference doesn't seem to be noticeable at idle, but once you get moving it is very noticeable, even after the engine has reached operating temperature. It is most noticeable (and annoying) under light to moderate throttle. Over the years I have done a few things to help quiet engine noise and as a result I can easily hear excessive timing rattle. When I had my stock injectors I ran timing at T1, and now with the RV275's I have experimented and it looks like I will stay with T2. With T2, performance and fuel economy are good with no timing rattle. In about two weeks I will be taking the travel trailer to Crescent City - this will be the first long towing trip (GCVW at 12,500 lbs) with the RV275 injectors. - John
  10. Tractorman

    Dead truck P0216

    You will have to set me straight here. I have a 20 foot tilt-deck trailer rated at 14,000 lbs GVWR. It's empty weight is about 3,000 lbs (maybe 3,500 lbs max). Are you saying your trailer weights 7,000 lbs empty? - John
  11. Tractorman

    Smarty S03: Tuning & Testing of Can-bus Fueling

    @pepsi71ocean, I have changed them from unlisted to public. This has been a learning experience for me. - John
  12. Tractorman

    Smarty S03: Tuning & Testing of Can-bus Fueling

    So, here are the videos (I think). The first one is SW5, the second one is SW9. In the videos I kept the camera on the boost gauge. When you see my hand swing down in front of the camera, that signals the pedal going to the floor. watch[2] 46MmlkQbEgo[1] - John
  13. A new market - Headlight Heaters! Maybe a low wattage incandescent bulb will make its way back into the headlight housing to melt snow and ice. That would be funny. - John
  14. Tractorman

    Smarty S03: Tuning & Testing of Can-bus Fueling

    My cruise control works well. I didn't try it with the SW9 settings, but it has worked well all other settings I have used. My cruise control is through the ECM - no vacuum controls. Do you want me to try it with SW9 - TM6, T4, D2? I am still working on how to upload videos to You Tube. - John
  15. Tractorman

    0216 Injection timing control

    I drove mine for over a year and 23,000 miles with the 0216 code. The problem started at 64,000 miles on the OEM pump and as time went on the engine went into limp mode more frequently and finally on every trip. But, I learned how to drive around the limp mode feature until I got the VP44 pump replaced. As @JAG1 mentions, two-stroke oil may help you along with a warm up in weather, at least until you can budget for a replacement VP44. - John