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Tractorman

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Tractorman last won the day on December 3

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    Scotts Mills, Oregon

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  1. That's good news - I was hoping for that kind of an explanation. Thanks. - John
  2. Yes, I did. It was your suggestion in a different topic that prompted me to do that earlier today. Thanks for that tip. I am going to loosen more supports that hold the fuel line and try the method again. It is just seeping now, but I need to get it stopped. - John
  3. I bought 6 new Bosch RV275 injectors one year ago (the price was right - $425 for the set) and finally installed them last Friday. The original injectors operated for 303,000 miles and had never been removed. They were still performing well – as in smooth idle, good power, and good fuel economy. I didn’t want to push a good thing too far. The job went smoothly with the help of this site. All of the old injector tips were clean considering the miles and years on them. I did notice however, that there is a black coating of something kind of oily / powdery (not sure what it is) in the intake area just below the grid heaters. It is not present in the air horn and the hose from the intercooler – they are very clean. I wonder if worn valve guides combined with lots of exhaust brake usage could be the cause. Maybe someone who has had experience with this can shed some light. The marks are from me using a scraper. I am having a problem with a very small leak with #1 injector line at the injector. When I removed the injector lines, I did it in groups of three, but I left all of the blue clamping points tight. When I put everything back together, the connection at the #1 injector showed signs of leaking (wetness on the head around the fitting) on a 5 mile test run. So, I loosened the #1 injector line at the injector and loosened the blue clamp nearest the injector and then tightened the injector line followed by tightening the blue clamp. No evidence of a leak on a 5 mile test run. However, after a 50 mile trip the head is slightly damp around the injector connection. I will try again, but this time I think I will loosen the clamps and the mounts and repeat the procedure to get the leak stopped. If anyone has any tips, please speak up. I like the performance of the RV275’s. I immediately dialed the Smarty tune back a setting. OEM injectors: SW5 – Torque Management 5, Timing 1, Duration 5 RV275 injectors : SW3 – Torque Management 4, Timing 2, Duration 2. Smarty Settings: Torque Management (1-6) Each higher number incrementally reduces torque management at low engine rpm’s. Example: TM-6 equal zero torque management and allows for high torque at low rpm’s. Timing (1-4): Each higher number incrementally advances ignition timing . (#1 is stock, #2 is stock with after market injectors) Fuel Duration (1-5): Each higher number incrementally increases fuel duration. (#1 is stock) The RV275 injectors definitely deliver more fuel. So far, the tune I am using with these injectors is performing well, lots of torque on the low end easy to drive without smoke. I am setting the tune as to how I drive with a manual 6 speed transmission and operating engine rpm’s between the 1500 to 2000 rpm range for almost all driving conditions. I will post more information as I get some miles on the new injectors and let you know which tune I end up with. - John
  4. I don't see a problem with the alternator - it looks to me like it has a quick-connect feature. - John
  5. I agree, and that is my method. I have jump started many vehicles in this manner. I still have the original Bosch alternator (brushes and bearings at 215,000 miles) with 303,000 miles on the alternator now. - John
  6. Some things that your video doesn't show... * You say "some hesitation starting" - does that mean the starter is cranking slowly?, or is it cranking at normal speed and just takes longer for the engine to start? (Starting the video before you turned the key would help us diagnose.) * Are you operating the throttle or is the engine going to high idle on its own? * What is the ambient air temperature? Is this a cold start? - as in the first start of the day? I am going to assume some things here. It was the first start of the day. You waited to start the engine until the "Wait to Start" light went out. The starter cranked for a longer than normal period of time. When the engine started either you brought the engine rpm up and held it there or the high idle feature was enabled. (Thanks KATOOM for this information) So, if this was your procedure, I would say that the alternator was charging normally throughout the duration of the video. The grid heaters would have drawn 200 amps while waiting for the "Wait to Start" light to go out. The starter would have drawn about 400 amps while cranking. After the engine started the post cycling of the grid heaters would have begun - again drawing 200 amps continuously because of the high idle. The alternator puts out 136 amps maximum - much less than the 200 amp draw from the grid heaters. The battery voltage falls to around 12 volts and remains there ( as it should) because the alternator that really is charging just can't keep up. The grid heaters draw whatever current is available from the alternator (which is not enough) and draw the remaining current from the batteries which drops the voltmeter down to around 12 volts and holds there.. I noticed in your video that when you said the alternator just kicked in, it appeared that the engine had dropped to an idle and the grid heaters had cycled off just a moment before. That would explain the rise to 14 volts in the voltmeter. If the starter is cranking slowly, then I would be looking at batteries that are in poor condition, corroded or loose wiring connections, worn starter contacts, etc. - John
  7. Only the people near sea level elevation have the rounded figure of 14 psi. Where you are in Colorado Springs, the atmospheric pressure is about 11.8 psi. Just being technical. - John
  8. Tractorman

    Lift Pump Cutting Out

    I think the "0" pump pressure and "lost power and started smoking" symptoms are likely to be from the same problem since they occurred at the same time. If the fuel flow to the VP-44 is restricted for whatever reason, it could cause the "bluish" smoke. - John
  9. Tractorman

    Steering Linkage Y, T, ?

    You only need to turn the steering wheel back and forth enough to load the steering linkage (no more than 30 degrees each way). The friction of the tire to the ground helps to load the linkage. This way you can use your wife's cookie sheets for other things. - John
  10. Tractorman

    Steering Linkage Y, T, ?

    You will get better "real life" test results if you set the vehicle back onto ground for the tie rod end, center link, drag link, and track bar checks because the joints will have to do some actual work. I block the rear wheels, set the park brake, and have someone operate the steering wheel back and forth with the engine running while I perform the inspection. I like your method for checking suspension ball joints and wheel bearings. - John -
  11. Tractorman

    Steering Linkage Y, T, ?

    Still have the "Y" style myself - just over 300,000 miles still on original left and right tie rod ends, have replaced center link and drag link once. Of course I am using those ridiculously small tires recommended by Mopar1973Man and the goofy sticker on my driver's door. - John The above post was an attempt at humor. - John
  12. Tractorman

    Throttle acting up

    Set the voltmeter to display AC millivolts (not DC) - John
  13. Stick with your previous procedure. As IBMobile says, Fuse #10 (50 amp) goes to the part of the ignition switch that gives power to the BLk/WHT wire that you were testing. Test it again with Fuse #10 pulled. Post your results. One step at a time... - John
  14. I have made assumptions on what you are testing, what tool you are testing with, how you are connecting with the testing tool, and the state of the connection with the ignition switch. I have made these assumptions (correctly or incorrectly) because you did not state the details. Here are my assumptions about your test: * You are using a multi-meter displaying voltage. * You are testing the output of the ignition switch, specifically the black wire with the white tracer and the light blue wire shown in the wiring diagram provided by Mopar1973Man. * You are performing your test with the wiring harness connected to the ignition switch (normal condition). * The ignition switch is in the off position. * Your multi-meter black test lead is connected to a known good ground * You are probing the BLK/WHT wire with the red test lead and you are recording 11 volts. * You are probing the LGTBLU wire with the red test lead and you are recording 10.7 volts. If this is how you are doing your ignition switch test, then your recordings may not be conclusive because the multi-meter does not place a load on the circuit - you could be reading stray voltage, or a back feeding voltage. By simultaneously connecting a test light at the same connections as your multi-meter, you can place a small electrical load on the circuit, thus eliminating any stray voltage. * If the test lamp does not light and the voltage drops to zero, then the ignition switch is not likely the problem. * If the test lamp does light and the voltage remains the same or near the same, then the ignition could be the problem, OR, another circuit could be back feeding. - John
  15. Not necessarily - for a couple of reasons.. For clarification, I am assuming that you are performing the ignition switch tests with the wiring harness connected to the ignition switch. A multi-meter does not load the circuit when performing a voltage test. Consequently, stray voltage can influence the test results. Using a test lamp simultaneously with the multi-meter will be beneficial here. If the test lamp does not light and the voltage drops to zero, then the ignition switch is not likely the problem. If the test lamp does light and the voltage remains the same or near the same, then the ignition could be the problem, OR, another circuit could be back feeding. Electrical troubleshooting can be a challenge. You need to be diligent in following specific steps and always double check your work along the way. - John
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