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Tractorman last won the day on August 7

Tractorman had the most liked content!

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    Scotts Mills, Oregon

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  1. Tractorman

    Bad ECM or wrong vp44??

    But if you were and you leaned up against an electric fence, you might understand how back feeding could occur. - John
  2. Tractorman

    Alternator diode heat

    I agree with your above statement. The multi-meters that I use currently and in the past do not display a value lower than .1 ohm. Will your multi-meter display a value lower than .1 ohm, such as .01 ohm? If your meter is limited to measuring in tenths of an ohm (like mine), then theoretically the 95 amp element would be rounded down to .1 ohms. If your meter can measure in one-hundredths of an ohm, then the 95 amp element would be rounded to .13 which would be a value that you can work with. So, what I am trying to say is since the meters that I have worked with are limited to measuring within a tenth of an ohm, a .1 ohm reading could really be .08 ohms (150 amps), or .13 ohms (92.3 amps), for example. Since the meter would round these numbers to .1, one could draw an incorrect conclusion about how much actual amperage draw there is. This is why I don't use an ohmmeter to check for resistance on a high amperage circuit with the meters that I am familiar with. I still think that using a quality charging system tester with a clamp style ammeter would give you the most accurate intake heater current draw in a real-life situation and also tell you which heaters are operating after the engine is running during post heat cycles. Plus, you can check the output of the alternator during post heat cycles with or with out high idle. I apologize now if I have made this topic more confusing than it should be. - John
  3. Tractorman

    Alternator diode heat

    I don’t think that a resistance test on a high amperage circuit will have much value, primarily because the resistance changes greatly as the element is heated. Your test results kind of show that. For example, using Ohm’s Law based on your tests, the following results would be true if there is 12 volts available at the intake heater and the wiring is good condition: Cold intake heater at 12 volts / .1 ohm = 120 amps. (A bit high, but in the ballpark) Warm intake heater at 12 volts / .5 ohm = 24 amps. (I don’t think this is accurate) I think that a quality load tester with a clamp-on ammeter would get the results that you are looking for quickly. You could load test each intake heater circuit individually with the engine off, and then with the engine running. You could also test actual alternator output while grid heaters are cycling with or without high idle. I think using above test procedure would be very informative and you would quickly know whether or not the air intake heaters are performing as they should. This morning I performed a voltage drop test on the intake heater circuits. I prefer voltage drop tests over just inspecting electrical connections. Voltage drop tests tell you exactly what is going on with pinpoint accuracy because the test is being performed while the circuit is under its normal load. Many times I have seen what appears to be a clean and tight electrical connection, but the connection fails the voltage drop test because it is a dirty connection “electrically”. So, here is the information regarding my test. My truck is an ’02 with just over 300,000 miles on the original Bosch alternator. The intake heaters were modified to be operated manually by a momentary switch shortly after the truck was new. Since I only use the intake heaters when needed (never after engine is started), the alternator has had an easy life. At 215,000 miles as a maintenance procedure, I replaced only the brushes and bearings on the alternator. The current batteries in my truck are Group 24, 890 CCA @ 32*, 725 CCA @ 0*. The batteries are four months old. I manually performed two 10 second heat cycles with engine off, then three heat cycles with the engine running. I allowed a brief recharge time between cycles. I recorded the following readings in the last 5 seconds of the fourth and fifth heat cycle with engine running: Voltage drop = .6 volts from left positive battery post to each intake heater positive stud terminal. Voltage drop = 11.0 volts from each intake heater positive stud to common intake heater negative stud terminal. Voltage drop = .12 volts from common intake heater negative stud terminal to left negative battery post. The average battery voltage remained at about 11.7 volts during the last 5 seconds of each test. The sum of the voltage drops under load equals the average battery voltage under load within .02 of a volt. The .6 volt drop in the first test represents each fusible link in the positive side of the circuit, so this voltage drop is expected. The .12 volt drop in the third test represents a good ground circuit (should be under .2 volt drop.) The 11.0 volt drop in the second test represents the electrical load – the actual work being done. The voltage drop tests that I performed do not tell me the amperage draw of the intake heaters, but they do tell me that the condition of the wiring is good and the intake heaters are working. I only posted the voltage drop testing information because I think is the best method for maintaining good electrical connections before problems occur. One of the many benefits from using voltage drop testing is that any potential poor connection is never disturbed, but easily found during the test. Voltage drop testing is a very powerful diagnostic tool for determining the quality of electrical connections, but the procedure is probably the least used and the most misunderstood. - John
  4. Ditto! After almost 5,000 miles of driving with the 245's with various combined loads of 12,500 lbs to 16,500 lbs making several trips to Baker City and back, there is no way I'm going back to a larger diameter tire. Some trips I used I-84, but most trips I used Hwy 26 with lots of mountain passes to climb and descend.. - John
  5. Tractorman

    VP44 testing

    Yes, the end of the perforated pipe is open and the opening is located about 2 inches from the inside of the blank end wall of the air filter. This project is one of the many small things that I have done to incrementally make the engine quieter. - John
  6. Tractorman

    Running board pics!

    Thanks for the comment - unfortunately, it was a long time ago (2001) when the running boards were purchased, so I don't recall the manufacturer. - John
  7. Tractorman

    VP44 testing

    I made my own silencer for the BHAF and now the BHAF is much quieter inside and outside of the cab than the factory air filter box and filter. I used a ribbed 3" perforated plastic drain pipe as the silencer. I modified a piece of my son-in-law's exhaust pipe from an '06 truck to make an airtight connection. I sealed the plastic pipe inside the modified exhaust pipe piece. The turbo whistle is completely gone now (the one sound I liked) and the exhaust brake is much quieter now. It is amazing how much sound is generated from the intake side of the engine. - John
  8. I watched your video - I think it's the oil cap that is making all the noise. - John
  9. Tractorman

    Running board pics!

    I've had these running boards on the truck since it was new. They have been reliable and are not very slippery when wet. They have never been exposed much to salty roads, so they remain in very good condition. The trim strips around the fenders are part of the package. - John
  10. Tractorman

    16+ more years

    I also have a 2002 truck, but with a six speed transmission. I just crossed over the 300,000 mile mark last month and I intend to drive the truck at least to the 500,000 mile mark and then re-evaluate the truck condition. More than likely I will keep driving the truck past the 500,000 mile mark. Utilizing the extensive knowledge and personal experiences from participants of this website, I think you can drive a very reliable second generation truck for reasonable maintenance and repair costs for many years after 250,000 miles. Even at 300,000 miles my truck performs far better than it did the day I drove it off the lot. Maybe with high miles there is more risk for a breakdown, but it will likely be a breakdown where I can control costs because I know what I am capable of repairing. For me, I am comfortable with that. - John
  11. I don't know about you guys... everyone knows these are spark plug boots. - John
  12. Tractorman

    Change to Limited Slip

    Try lightly setting the park brake in very slippery situations. It is a poor man's solution for a limited slip, but it works when you need it - I know, I have done many times in snow country. - John
  13. I don't think that the increased tire weight will be an issue. It's more about operating the engine in an RPM range that gives you performance and fuel economy. It is too bad that car and truck manufacturers don't provide engine performance charts that show engine horse power, engine torque, and fuel consumption in lbs/hp per hour at every RPM in its operating range. Years ago when I purchased a Cummins 4BTA 3.9 and installed it in a 1991 Ford F150, I was provided with this performance chart from Cummins. On that engine the peak torque was at 1700 RPM, but the lowest fuel consumption per hour was at 2100 RPM, so it gave me a good idea of what the final drive ratio should be. The Cummins engines in our 2nd generation trucks probably closely fit this performance chart. This is why the smaller tires will give a significant gain in fuel economy as well as performance Attached is a performance chart for a mid '80's 4BT3.9 (no aftercooler). Note the fuel consumption information (the horizontal line at the bottom of the graph) If you save the picture, you can zoom in on the graph for better detail. - John
  14. I have just crossed over the 300,000 mile mark on my original front wheel bearings. I, too, have always wondered if having the six speed transmission and using the exhaust brake daily for the life of the truck has contributed to the long life of the front wheel bearings. It makes sense that the absence of serious heat would give a much longer bearing life. - John
  15. Just finished another round trip to Baker City and back hauling the mini-excavator both ways with the new 245 tires. Fuel mileage ranged from 13.8 to 14.4 mpg and the truck performs great! So far, I have not experienced any negative effects from switching to the 245 tires. Also, another noted performance improvement was during two of my trips through the Columbia River Gorge with gusty winds. When semi's passed me or I passed them, there was no longer a push to the side that I felt before with the 265 tires. I just crossed over the 300,000 mile mark on the odometer. The other photo is the 5 acre parcel of land we just purchased looking at the Elkhorn Mountains. - John