Tim Waldo

So the control switch for the power locks has NEVER worked on my truck from the time I got it in 2007, I just recently ordered a new switch (yeah, I never get in a hurry about stuff) and installed it today... hit the switch and NOTHING... I can lock the doors with the key and it will lock (or unlock) both sides... but the switch does nothing... its time to fix this, where should I start?

I thought about it, but it was $22 for a new switch and it was an easy change.

Lessons learned.... to flush the ATF took me 3/4 a gallon of Chrysler spec power steering fluid before I was getting mostly clear fluid back... about 8 cycles of starting engine and turning steering wheel back and forth. I also somehow broke my brake switch when I dropped the plunger on the hydroboost off the brake pedal.. (it lost contact and threw out the calibration). You can drop the kick panel and have direct access to the brake switch... it twists to the left and slides right out.... READ THE INSTRUCTIONS for installation... it is a one shot and run kind of thing... mess up the first time and you are buying a 2nd new switch.... last thing I almost made it a even harder job by taking the brake lines OFF the master cylinder... DONT.... it just flops back with no tension on the brake lines...

the important part..... the key sizes are 15mm socket (deep), 18mm wrench, 22mm wrench, and a flare nut wrench for the brake lines. I didn't have a 15mm and used an SAE deep well that I believe was 19/32" I am currently half way through the replacement.

can I not just use the push rod that is IN my truck currently? Seems like it would be easier to replace the gaskets/seals and the kit is less than $50

So a year ago (maybe 2) I had a line pop on the hydroboost/power steering system... doing a frantic search for the correct fluid SEVERAL forums suggested ATF+4 so that is what I bought and filled my reservoir with.... It felt right and I am pretty sure that is what I had used in the past.... NOW I have a leak between the hydroboost and the master cylinder... should I flush the system and add back the CORRECT power steering fluid OR should I buy a new hydroboost module? The books have not been helpful because the service manual I bought from Genos does NOT specify the correct power steering fluid... I'm not sure if it is because I was running ATF+4 or if it was just time for the gasket/seal was just time to go... so should I flush the system and prepare for replacing gaskets or should I flush the system in preparation of replacing the hydroboost?

SO... for a 2000 2nd Gen, ATF is NOT supposed to be used? is that why my hydroboost is leaking now? I had a line come loose after the engine replacement and on a quick google search specific to a 2000 doge ram, came up with ATF+4 so that is what I've been running since fixing the line.

oh... this is all so last weekend :p

That is an awesome idea... when you have a torch :P (or remember that you have a torch).

I just played this game over the weekend... broke 3 short extensions and a breaker bar getting the caliper bolts loose, stripped one caliper slide pin (6mm hex by the way... might want to get a couple before you start), 3 cans of brake clean and half a tall can of PB BLASTER... oh.. two full days if you include the 4 RT drives to the closest auto parts store.

No Edge tuner (just there as a monitor), less than 30k on a reman motor with NEW injectors and no bio-diesel...... that and the mileage changes in accordance of auto or semi lanes when purchased.

I get it... but also why I posted here... trying to make sense of the results I'm experiencing. The 17mpg fills ups were regular Auto lane diesel...

that is odd because bio generally gives me an MPG boost of about 1mpg and the engine runs smoother. B20 specificallly.... but THAT is not the issue... none of them have had bio. I honestly think it is winter blended fuel for the big rigs... my last fill up was auto lane and I can't wait to see if there is STILL a difference.

So.. if you haven't checked it out... do... Android and Apple... That being said, do the fuel lanes for semi's have DIFFERENT diesel than the auto lanes? I've been using the APP and filling up at the SEMI lanes but have lost about 3mpg when I do... SEMI lanes gets me 15 mpg and auto lanes get me 18ish MPG.... WHERE I get the fuel is the only difference.. Comments?