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Nekkedbob last won the day on May 26 2016

Nekkedbob had the most liked content!

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    Wilton Wi

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  1. Nekkedbob

    Heater core Hell

    I have had three different vehicles that I just did a backflush of the core and if worked after just fine. I disconnected the heater core from the motor and ran some vinigar through it backwards and then ran hot water through it to flush it.
  2. Your seat belt will continue to draw power when the door is open and for about 10 minutes after the door is closed. To test if it is the seat belt is causing a problem roll down the window, close the doors and walk away from the truck for 10 minutes. When you come back reach in the window without opening the door and try pulling the seat belt, if it doesn't come out its good and the draw for the seat belt will be gone. It is a small draw but I could see that after 3 days it could draw the battery down. I would say pull the fuse and look for any other draw that is there.
  3. Nekkedbob

    Curt Hitch

    If your hitch has a MOPAR tag or sticker there is a TSB about the same crack problem. I just got mine done this year for free by dodge
  4. And as I remember let the seal set for at least 4 hours before starting the engine or it might leak.
  5. Nekkedbob

    Turbo moaning with boost

    With the BHAF on mine I don't hear the turbo until I get above 10 PSI ,that only lasts until about 16 then quiets down until I hit 20 PSI and then starts to howl above 23 PSI
  6. Nekkedbob

    Turbo moaning with boost

    Mine has always had a ungodly howl above about 23 PSI and has done this for 5 years since I disabled the waste gate.
  7. Nekkedbob


  8. Both NAPA and Advance gave me the one on right but it was the lady put in 99 and I got the one on the left. The one on the left was the same as the one that was put in it 4 years ago from NAPA in Jackson Ca.
  9. Nekkedbob

    98.5 Electrical Issues

    Dont forget that the qclb has a timer that keeps the seatbelts activated for up two 5 minutes after you close the door or when the door is open. To check for the draw open the driver side window, close the door then dont touch the truck for at least 5 minutes then reach in and pull one the driver side seatbelt. If the seatbelt is locked then check for a draw without opening the door. If the seat belt does come out you may have a bad seat belt controller under the center seat.
  10. I took a pic. and you can see the difference. I thought that maybe a up date or a different manufacturer so I didn't question it. The flow has got to be twice the stock unit. The one on the right is the old one the one on the left is what 2 different parts houses gave me.
  11. I found the problem! All the thremostats that I found did look a little different from what I had. While at the counter at Advance auto a lady behind the counter walked by when I was explaining to the other counter person what was going on. She took over from the first person and ask if it was a late or a early 98 and I told her a late. She pulled both and nether looked like what I had originally had. At that point she pulled one for a 99 and there it was just like I had. Went home and installed it and all is good. Flat road , 85 degrees out with the AC on right at 191, 195 up the steepest hill I can find locally never below 188.
  12. The one from napa was the one that looks like MPM 190 but was listed as premium unit. So far I have asked for Stant and Gates both and the just list as house brands, no manufacturer. I had a interesting thing today . I crested a fairly steep hill at 189 and about half mile down the other side the temp hit 207 then dropped to 172 before it closed again and was at 198 at the bottom.
  13. I all ready cleaned the radiator and installed MPM CCV breather that dumps at the back of the block and the radiator is still clean. Mine looked worse then that when I pulled it. When it was dirty the only time that I noticed a problem was pulling my trailer up hellish grade on highway 88 from NV. into CA.Just a FYI I replaced the radiator 4 years ago when I installed the thermostat and MPM CCV and had to reclean it in the spring because of a failed pvc joint.
  14. I have worked on vehicles off and on since the late 60s, gas and diesel , air cooled and water cooled and haven't had this happen before. I did a coolant flush as it was due and changed the thermostat because it was running about 5 degrees hotter the last year. The first new thermostat that I installed was listed as 190 degree and it did not open until 207 and not close until 183. I filled the radiator through the thermostat hole as i normally do and topped off in the cap , let it run through open 2 cycles. All good . Took it out for a drive of 20 miles with short but steep hills and flats. The first thermostat was very consistently opening at 207 to 208 and closing 182 to 183. Any motor that I have worked on before never varied more than about 3 degrees after maybe 4 open and close cycles on flat road with it being 75 degrees out. I installed a second one that was a 190 by a different parts house and it is doing the same thing but opens at 197 to 198 and closes at any where from 177 to 182. The second one was driven about 135 miles with no change. I did install the old thermostat and all is well but it is a 190 that was installed 4 years ago and after I brought it out of winter storage this year it has been about 5 degrees over normal but very consistent. I have changed more thermostats then I want to remember and cannot remember a bad one out of the box more or less two in a row. The first one was from advance auto and the second one was a napa premium. Is this the new standard or am I the luckiest person in the world this week. My next move will be to go to cummins and just bite the bullet and pay the price unless someone can come up with a better way to go.
  15. Nekkedbob

    Valve Lash rant

    Years ago I remember that there was a hot and cold lash on engines . Mostly industrial engines that ran nonstop so they never cooled down and for mechanics that couldn't wait for a cold engine.