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Nekkedbob last won the day on May 26 2016

Nekkedbob had the most liked content!

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  1. During the 9 years that I was a owner/operator I saw the results of 4 other turbo failures and I was the only one that caused minimal damage as all I had to do was clean the cross over tube and rebuild the turbo. The worst was the one that blew the cold side apart pulling a hill and took the side of the hood out and the one that the driver panicked and forgot to pull the emergency shut down so the engine just ran until it ran out of engine oil . Almost all of them required a rebuild when all was said and done. What worries me is that none of these gave any indication that there was a problem until they went ( no oil in the intake , no shaft play or no odd sounds until it was to late). With a auto as most of our trucks have a shut down sounds impossible but you might be able to limit it until it runs out of oil and with a manual with a good clutch sounds doable but I don't want to think about trying to stall one cruising at 70 MPH.
  2. My though was a sliding plate on top of the grid heater with a cable. It seems it might be easier to seal and not reduce or disturb the air flow.
  3. That might work but you have to remember that there is a large amount of air that goes through these engines that you would have to displace to kill it.
  4. As a victim of a true runaway on a Cummins 855 many years ago that I was able to save, it is a terrifying experience. A stuck or floored throttle is not bad because they all have governors to limit the RPMs and can be killed by turning off the power. When there is a true runaway you cant stop the fuel flow or limit the RPM and in my case it was engine oil from a failed turbo that was fueling it. The only thing that saved mine was it had a compression release on the motor that opened all the exhaust valves. Years ago all of the over the road trucks had some sort of emergence shut down device but it appears that that is a thing of the past. Just as a side note when my turbo failed it never gave be any indication that it was going until the instant it went.( at the bottom of a hill I put my foot in it and in about 30 sec. the turbo made a different noise so I let up in it and the fully loaded truck gained more power then it ever had and was still accelerated even when I turned it off). I have seen emergency shut dows for the 5.9s but they are pricey and I have been saving for one.
  5. Nekkedbob

    Alternator rebuild kit

    For rebuilding try this place. I don't know them but it looks interesting. http://rebuilderinabox.com/
  6. A life time ago it was normal to add a small can of water soluble oil to the coolant if you ran water only. With todays coolants I cant see a need because if you feel coolant on your fingers it has a oily feel.
  7. Nekkedbob

    High amp alternator

    I for one agree that the diode failure seems to be caused by heat. I had a brain storm last year when researching alternators and my thought was to over build the stock alternator with something in the way of 200 amp diodes mounted externally. As I see it the max output at 130 amps should not come anywhere close to stressing the diodes at that point. My only problem is sourcing the parts and getting their dimensions. I kept my old core but it was rebuilt once before and all of the tags are missing. Come next spring I will pursue this farther. I didn't want to go with any of the after market unit because I do spend 30 days on the road in the fall and want to be able to find parts if needed.
  8. Nekkedbob

    High amp alternator

    After rereading some of the earlier posts I thought that I should chime in. When I started working back in the 70s electrical and electronic part were made for X power but were heavy enough to almost double that before you worried about it. As time has gone on the over power capability has gone down. This is why I think that a original alternator would go so long and the rebuilds (using new parts ) don't last. I worked as a R&D tech and was allowed to do things (destructive testing) that would get a person fired today. As time has gone by I have noticed that this has happened to all aspects of my life and that to many things that I deal with. If you look in a UGLYs reference you will find that almost all of our harness wires are under sized for the current vs run. A good example is we would put a v8 in Toyota with the stock rear end and not break it. Today you can over stress a rear end just by putting a tuner on one.
  9. Nekkedbob

    Brake Boost

    Just a FYI I had two different trucks that had that problem and on both I found that the axle seals had failed and contaminated the shoes. One had no outside indication of a leak. Both I replaced the shoes ,the seal and cleaned everything and all was good.
  10. Nekkedbob

    02 Cummins electrical draw 2.8 A

    If his truck is a quadcab check the seat belt module under the center seat. I just spent hours on mine this summer because of what me and a electrical tech thought was a 2 amp draw and after many more hours of research I found it. First off turn off the truck with the driver side window down, make sure that there is nothing on and walk away from it for at least 20 minutes. After 20 minutes reach on and pull on the seat belt with out opening the door, it should be locked and only come out a small amount. If it is not locked and comes out like it does when you get on the seat then the seat belt module us not shutting off. I don't know where the timer is for it ( it may be in the module ) but there is a impact sensor built in to it and if it gets displaced it can keep the solenoid in at the top of the seat back where seat belt goes in on. Hope this helps.
  11. Nekkedbob

    Door hinge

    I used the dorman pins and bushings on two different two door explorers that I drove for my work. I was in and out up to 15 times a day and put 100k miles after I replaced them with no problems.
  12. Just replaced mine this summer after being rear ended. I got a replacement from the dealer. I didn't keep the receipt so I cant give the the P.N. but they had them in stock or could order them. Make sure that it is for your body style and not the new style.
  13. Nekkedbob

    Trailer Charge line

    Thanks guys. I guess I will be installing a switched charge line. I like the idea of using the 7 strand wire and will start looking for it. I was thinking about a 3 wire cable but 7 wire sounds better because I want to run a larger brake wire also. It may be newer trucks that have the switched line.
  14. I just purchased my first trailer that will need a charge line ( my last two had solar and 110 ac charging) and I noticed that the charge line in my truck has no relay that I can find. This concerns me because if the grids turn on they will pull current from the batteries including the trailer when plugged in. Being that the grids pull 100 amps each and the alternator will not even supply what is needed for one grid at idle. I my have heard wrong but I heard that our trucks had one just for this reason and so you cant draw from the truck batteries when parked and draining them down. I found the relay for the clearance / running lights but none for the charge line. Has anyone pulling a travel trailer had any problem with this or is there a relay I missed.
  15. Nekkedbob

    AC ripple Testing

    When I replaced mine last spring it was .05 so I had the parts house test it and confirmed. They tested the new one and it passed and they told me that anything over .01 was a failure on their tester.