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Doubletrouble

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Doubletrouble last won the day on April 4

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    N.W. Ohio

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  1. I'll be getting an OEM type replacement. I don't see a need for the adjustable rod. It worked just fine before this, just want to get it back to where it was and won't have to worry about over-extending the slave. I'll find a video on bleeding the system and bench bleed it before install to avoid any issues if possible.
  2. I agree with @Mopar1973Man, alot of the studies I have read are skewed to the manufacturer sponsoring the study. Also, alot of the store brand oils such as walmart for example are made by better known manufactures so the quality is there just not the name brand. I won't knock amsoil because I do use it in my harley, it did make a noticable difference there but that is an air cooled V-Twin which see some pretty warm temps in the summer. Completely different animal compared to our trucks. The biggest thing is consistent maintenance in the form of oil changes or at least testing the i
  3. Yeah, I'm sure it's the hydraulics now. The switch doesn't look good either. Time to replace both. Most of the kits come filled and pre-bled. Is there a way to check for air or maybe re-bleed the system before install?
  4. I finally had a moment to check some things. As suggested, I checked for a little fluid flow into the reservoir as the pedal was pushed down. There is none. As explained I guess this means the piston of the master is not fully retracting to too off the master cylinder? That would explain the issue, not enough fluid being moved to provide the necessary travel. Hence having to be pushed tight to the floor. Any thoughts? On the right track? Thanks all. Also, when I pulled the clutch pedal back something gave way. I believe it was the safety switch pulling away from the master. Is that
  5. Is this relay there to protect the lift pump or the ecm circuit? I assume the ecm?
  6. I don't know if camp lejune has them but some military bases have garages you can rent with tools and equipment available to use. My son was in the navy in san Diego, they had a shop like that. Came in handy for him.
  7. Would what seems to be excessive free play point towards the hydraulics? The clutch pedal moves 1/2-3/4 of an inch if you pull up on it. Would this indicate a bad/broken return spring inside the master?
  8. No, I didn't. I actually scraped the idea. There just isn't enough room to get the belt to twist and turn the way I need it to. Would have been neat to get it to work but I had to move in to other projects.
  9. There is a small gap I guess I'd call it where you can see the teeth of the flywheel. It looks dry. I would think that would get soaked in oil as well if there was a main seal leak. I will try looking at the bushings a little closer. Probably replace the clutch master and slave and see where that goes. I will pull the trans if needed after that. On a side note, how does one check the fluid and level on the nv4500. I'm sure I could search it but since I'm here......lol
  10. It's only difficult when the truck is stopped. Like when shifting into 2nd or reverse. Once moving it shifts into 3rd, 4th and 5th fine as I accelerate.
  11. Would the bushings for the clutch/brake pedal cause this sort of issue? I have noticed that when I press the clutch I can feel the brake pedal push back if that makes sense.
  12. I tried pumping it up and that didn't help anything either. I did look under the dash and it seems to show some signs of leaking. The master also seems to move slightly when I push in the pedal. I'm not sure yet what is going on here, I know that something is different from before. Just have to get to the bottom of it.
  13. I will try to pump it up and see if that changes anything. Holding it down to see if it bled off did nothing. It didn't creep or anything so I don't believe it's leaking.
  14. I'll have to try that. Is there an inspection cover to take a look at the clutch. I've been under there but was really looking at that at the time.
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