Mopar1973Man

2 micron if possible. typically the Donaldson's Filters I pick up are typically 3 microns.

That could possibly be fixed. Pull the haust housing off. Warm up the exhaust housing in an oven or with a propane torch then dump it in a small bucket of diesel fuel. Let the heat and it soaking hopefully free the shaft and wastegate up. Might take several passes and some light tapping with a plastic or rubber hammer to shock the wastegate rust.

@Threadzy Clean install. That spot is taken on my truck with the exhaust brake control valve.

Had to share on of the locals wanted the diff and transmission fluid changed. I did find another transmission fluid for NV4500. It is a GL-4 75w-90 lube. Limited slip rear end with 75w-140.

Might also read my finding on oil temp.

I opted away from fuses. If you have something go wrong and it blows you got to carry a few extras. At least a resettable circuit breaker you can at least reset many times over. I've seen the old 140A stock fuse blow and some just rotted away or cracked. Fun is when you look and the fuse looks fine but actually its cracked.

When I'm at home at the PC everything is fast... Here I'll dive in a help... Fuse 12 Now you can see everything that is runs.

There is a jump swittch inside the Quadzilla for the MAP sensor. I'm not sure which way is which but one way is early MAP sensor and the hang the jump of one pin is the other series of MAP sensor.

Like myself and @mr.obvious both have the circuit breaker and mounted behind the passenger batter neither is having an issue. Same manufacture as well I've already seen 106°F summer day in traffic and no issues as of yet.

Let me tag @Me78569 so he can re upload his tune must of been a file issue. If the file can't be fixed properly I'l refund the money back to you.

Rear parking brakes are what pull the pedal back up. This means you need to adjust out the slack.

Need a another test shop. New test stands report max voltage, max amperage, max AC ripple, and even a sine wave of the ripple. Most NAPA stores have a quality test stand.

Done. Split out.

Now here comes the fun of pulling the gear then re-index the pump and test drive for a week and then do it all over again till you hit the hot spot. I've been at it on my truck for over 6 months building this tune. At least VP44 is easier to set timing over the p-pump. Still in the end game the timing is correct the fuel usage will be down and the oil temp should be -10°F below coolant temp.

Smarty screen have a bad USB port in the Smarty side. Known to have the solder joint breaking. You'll need to box it up and send it to Smarty for repair. This is a known issues.