Mopar1973Man

Would be kind of cool if you place a member map pin over there in Germany... https://mopar1973man.com/membermap/

Time to ditch the Edge juice and replace it with a Quadzilla. Way better fuel to boost management. You can set all your fuel rates from 0 PSI all the way to 30 PSI (plus) boost. Then you can cut fuel rates BELOW stock value which an Edge Juice can't do. Not even my Edge Comp could do as good as the Quadzilla.

First off. PCM is the primary computer and the ECM is secondary. Either computer can shut down the engine. The P1694 code most likely points to bad CCD Bus between the ECM and PCM. You might check the PDC box and that big connector that is bolted down. When you tighten again be gentle it doesn't take very much tension to ratchet tight for it. Being it starts and runs with a hot-wired VP44 but not with the ECM that tells me there is an issue there at the ECM. The fact the WTS light is not coming on points to ECM that is failing to boot up completely. Basically, if you don't see the WTS light when the key goes ON then the ECM is not booted up and is brain dead till it does light up. So check again make sure you are seeing the WTS light before starting. Without that WTS light, the fuel pump relay will not trigger power to VP44. It will not start or run. You mention the possibility of security. You would have to check the central timer see if its a high line or standard. High line has the security feature typically and the key fob. From what I know if the security is set it should start at all and that is controlled by the PCM.

Hello to you sir from way across the ocean. It's been a while since I've had someone from EU. Bring us your problem and we'll do our best to help solve it.

0.038 to 0.015 AC Volts of ripple...

Let's put it this way it's so rare to trip a P0168 code that I can only find a few posts on CF of people getting past 160*F. I think there is only one post here long ago that someone tripped a P0168 code. Quadzilla is much more of a tuner than Edge Juice. Both have the cooldown timer but Quadzilla can be either time based or EGT based where Juice is strictly EGT based. Then Edge Juice is canned tunes you can't modify the tunes at all. Take it or leave it tuner. Quadzilla can be programmed for many types of road conditions, performance, etc. The solder topic went around years ago on how they dropped the lead from the solder and it was making bad solder joints. To this day I think that was an isolated problem that I've never seen again.

Quadzilla turbo timer could be used the same way by setting the EGT shut off limit to 275 or 300*F and the engine continues to run pulling heat off of the engine till it reaches that shutoff point. I've noticed even on hot days it will pull the coolant temperature down to 188 to 192*F even if I pulled in and had 200*F coolant temperature shown it will cool everything down. Being you dumping turbo heat into the oil. Then the oil cooler dumps into the coolant. Then the coolant dumps into the air. Even yesterday I only topped out at 135*F fuel temp in 100*F weather coming home. Just getting all the heat off the engine helps a bunch. I rarely see much gain of fuel temperature.

Fuel pressure sensor does not pick up the temperature. Only pressure readings... Fuel temperature is measure INSIDE the VP44... The black tone wheel pickup on the right side of the picture is what gets the fuel temperature measurement for the Quadzilla. It's buried inside the VP44.

Ok I know several members have done this mod and said it was easy. It sure is easy. It takes about 2 hours from start to finish to complete this project. You'll need the terminal lugs and the metric bolt that @W-T specifies in his article. First thing disconnect your batteries. I unhooked the two negative leads. You need to gain access to the loom going across the front of the engine. So you'll need to remove the upper alternator bracket and the the two loom holders on the front of the block. I did this during my coolant flush project so my upper hose and thermostat are removed. If you have my crankcase vent that will need to be removed as well. Now I started at the battery and the alternator and started unhooking the wiring from these devices bring it forward. Now you start working on getting the split loom off the wiring. Start at the tape with a small exacto knife or razor blade and carefully split the tape to release the plastic split loom cover. Carefully remove it. I found out mine was brittle after all the years of engine heat. Once you remove all that slpit loom you can again split the spiral tape holding the loom together. Now you show be able to have both the ground lead and the alternator charge lead loose now. I will admit the alternator lead took a bit of work to release at the knot of tape on mine where it breaks out of the loom heading for the PDC. Just take your time with your razor blade and your get it released. You can clearly see the splice of the ground just like @W-T mentions in his article. Once you get the alternator lead out in one piece. Then the ground lead I used a pair of wire dikes and cut the ground right at the end of the splice. Now the alternator lead I reused the wire since it was in excellent condition. I mocked up the alternator lead by hooking it back up to the alternator like it should be and gave it a nice loop of slack then cut it to meet the positive battery terminal. On my terminal lugs, I took a hacksaw and scored the plastic collars and peeled them off for soldering. Then slipped the lug on and used a propane torch with the low flame and soldered the lugs right on to the wire. Good sold weld and this will seal the wire from future rot from battery acid and vapors. This is the completed alternator connection now. All I did was grab an old nut and stacked on the battery terminal. Now we are going to do the ground side. Now trim back the old splice and free the ends of the wires. Now strip back the wire so you can fit the wires into a lug. Again I did the same thing I took the hacksaw scored the plastic collar and peeled it off the lug and then slipped it on the wires and prepped it for soldering. Again just slipped the lug on the wires and low flame with a propane torch I soldered the lug to the wires. Now I cut the old plug off the splice on the passenger side ground and then trimmed the length of the wire with the plug so it would reach between the driver side battery and the gear case. Same again I peeled the plastic collar and slipped the lugs on and soldered with low flame propane torch. This gives you an idea where the wires go. Take your metric bolt and attach the ground wires to the case. Then the ground cable to the negative battery terminal on the driver side. Beyond this is just clean up. Now you need to tape up your loom again. I'm going to replace my split loom with smaller size being the old loom was brittle and was breaking during removal. The only thing that should run across the front of the engine now should be ECT sensor which is a twisted pair. The A/C compressor, A/C high pressure switch and the alternator field lead. Before AC noise level was 0.038 AC volts now after the mod its dropped to 0.015 AC volts. View full Cummins article

Ok I know several members have done this mod and said it was easy. It sure is easy. It takes about 2 hours from start to finish to complete this project. You'll need the terminal lugs and the metric bolt that @W-T specifies in his article. First thing disconnect your batteries. I unhooked the two negative leads. You need to gain access to the loom going across the front of the engine. So you'll need to remove the upper alternator bracket and the the two loom holders on the front of the block. I did this during my coolant flush project so my upper hose and thermostat are removed. If you have my crankcase vent that will need to be removed as well. Now I started at the battery and the alternator and started unhooking the wiring from these devices bring it forward. Now you start working on getting the split loom off the wiring. Start at the tape with a small exacto knife or razor blade and carefully split the tape to release the plastic split loom cover. Carefully remove it. I found out mine was brittle after all the years of engine heat. Once you remove all that slpit loom you can again split the spiral tape holding the loom together. Now you show be able to have both the ground lead and the alternator charge lead loose now. I will admit the alternator lead took a bit of work to release at the knot of tape on mine where it breaks out of the loom heading for the PDC. Just take your time with your razor blade and your get it released. You can clearly see the splice of the ground just like @W-T mentions in his article. Once you get the alternator lead out in one piece. Then the ground lead I used a pair of wire dikes and cut the ground right at the end of the splice. Now the alternator lead I reused the wire since it was in excellent condition. I mocked up the alternator lead by hooking it back up to the alternator like it should be and gave it a nice loop of slack then cut it to meet the positive battery terminal. On my terminal lugs, I took a hacksaw and scored the plastic collars and peeled them off for soldering. Then slipped the lug on and used a propane torch with the low flame and soldered the lugs right on to the wire. Good sold weld and this will seal the wire from future rot from battery acid and vapors. This is the completed alternator connection now. All I did was grab an old nut and stacked on the battery terminal. Now we are going to do the ground side. Now trim back the old splice and free the ends of the wires. Now strip back the wire so you can fit the wires into a lug. Again I did the same thing I took the hacksaw scored the plastic collar and peeled it off the lug and then slipped it on the wires and prepped it for soldering. Again just slipped the lug on the wires and low flame with a propane torch I soldered the lug to the wires. Now I cut the old plug off the splice on the passenger side ground and then trimmed the length of the wire with the plug so it would reach between the driver side battery and the gear case. Same again I peeled the plastic collar and slipped the lugs on and soldered with low flame propane torch. This gives you an idea where the wires go. Take your metric bolt and attach the ground wires to the case. Then the ground cable to the negative battery terminal on the driver side. Beyond this is just clean up. Now you need to tape up your loom again. I'm going to replace my split loom with smaller size being the old loom was brittle and was breaking during removal. The only thing that should run across the front of the engine now should be ECT sensor which is a twisted pair. The A/C compressor, A/C high pressure switch and the alternator field lead. Before AC noise level was 0.038 AC volts now after the mod its dropped to 0.015 AC volts.

350k miles 07/20/18 Coolant flush with fresh 190*F thermostat W-T Ground Wire Mod Still clean in both radiator and block 350k miles later and still using creek water.

Soon to come... W-T simplified ground mod article. I did mine without buying very much stuff at all... All wire was reused!

Would be better to see the fuel temp sensor inside the pump core. Either Edge Juice or Quadzilla display this value.

Will be fixed in the 4.3.5 release... When? It's in BETA test now.