Mopar1973Man

Remember if you get too much metallics in the grease between the tone wheel teeth the the ABS will freak out and set the ABS and BRAKE lights. Not something I willing to suggest. The tone wheel should be kept clean and not filled with grease. Being if the grease has a bunch of metallics then the ABS doesn't count the frequency even and may or will cause ABS issues later on.

My last Quadzilla failure was similar. I found that my ring terminal for ground was lose and created the same problem you had. I've seen one other vehicle with a bad set of red and red/white wires so the Quadzilla wasn't getting good power. Disconnecting the CANbus just stops the Quad from talking to the ECM and VP44. If it straightens out then look into the wiring more so and double check all the connections. DO NOT hook directly to the battery for either the RED positive or the BLACK ground wires. In the PDC box there is a red wire stud in there to get power. Then hook the black

Disconnect the Quad CANBus connector and see if it goes away if so the Quadzilla is having either power or communication problems.

There is no way to see the default tune that is shipped. You'll need to create a tune to make it what you need. Not hard nor long to do. You want roughly, 13° @ 1.5k RPM, 17° @ 2.0k RPM, 21° @ 2.5k RPM, 25° @ 3.0k RPM, 26° MAX for starting. I know this might be too retarded but safer to be retarded than over advanced... Here is what I'm running for my set up. Be aware with the cruise timing high like I run it does buck a bit on low RPM's just drop that to between 2 to 4 degrees on the cruise timing.

Most likely need to configure your timing for your engine. What is your current timing on the Quadzilla. Pay attention to the RPM and the engine load when your load is low and cruise timing is enabled you could possibly be over advancing the timing. It would help if you uploaded your current tune settings or at least post the Max Timing and the other timing parameters so we can see. Yes bucking is cause by too much timing advance.

Take notice to the amount of carbon. Like this truck was short tripped a lot and never got up to operational temperature much. Because if you get up over 1,200 EGTs that carbon and oil wouldn't be there.

Valve guides and valve seal would be my next step. I had done mine back at 350k miles being the vlave guides wore enough to allow the valves to wiggle and then ruin the valve seal that are harden and no longer flexible. Be aware the head will require removal and new head gasket require. Don't just do new seal being the seal will most likely be ruined being the guides might be worn. No way to get around this.

Being my random travels it makes no sense to plug in. Some days I don't leave home other days I might leave at 8am, 9am, 10am etc. Not to mention im on limited power here being daylight hours are short. If im heading south im warmed up in 5 miles with heat. Go north it will just about take 10 miles. If I want super fast warm up set 3 CYL mode flip on the exhaust brake. EGTs sore to 900 to 1000. I can go from -20F to fully warmed in under 10 minutes.

I'm glad I got 9mm back after the last shortage. No warning shot given due to the price of ammo.

Just think the stock engine and injectors with turn 235 HP. Now drop in a Quadzilla Adrenaline tuner and that is capable of 180 HP. So for safety sake that would make 355 HP to 415 HP just with tuner. There is a bunch of supporting mods to do to make this happen... AirDog 150 or FASS 150 with 1/2" fuel lines is a requirement. (Currently running a AirDog 150) Automatic transmission will need to be upgraded to hold the power. Manual transmission you need to look at better clutch. (Currently running a Valair Dual Disc) If your running over sized tire, then t

Just to make a serious jump I would suggest just gettng a Quadzilla Adrenaline which is a nice 180 HP jump in power. Fully adjustable tuner that adjust not only thre fuel but also can adjust timing for the VP44 trucks. I'm running 150 HP injectors (7x0.010) popped at 320 bar, with the Quadzilla and my Economy tune I'm right at about 500 HP and 19 to 21 MPG. I got the best of both worlds good economy and more than enough power to light the tires up on dry asphalt. Just to give you a feel... As for all the mod check my sig for my modification list and there is 4 pages worth.

Yes and no... Yes if you disconnect the little leads on the solenoids. That will trip both the P0380 and P0382. No. if you disconnect the battery power at the drivers side battery and pull the main power leads. This will not set any codes and allows for normal operation but there is no power to the solenoids. ECM is still hooked up and triggering the solenoids but just no power to the grid heater. This is what the solenoid is suppose to do as well. You can switch on and off the power to the main leads. As another member posted up that the solenoid burned. W

I was handed a rather good challenge to fix. I needed to have a pedal assembly rebuilt being salvaged pedals assemblies tend to all have the same fault wore out on the clutch bellcrank pin and bushings. I did a bit of Google search and turned up a guy named "Altered Ego" that does awesome work. When he got the assembly I sent in he called me and told me it was the worst one yet to see and totally wore out. Now after 2 weeks of freight time and waiting for pedal pads I got it back and it looks excellent. Even with grease zerks in the pivots. All upgraded with brass bush

OEM VP44 should have a VOID sticker wrapped around the VP44 connector preventing removal of the plug without tearing the sticker off.

I'd love to give you +5 likes for that... That is one of my biggest factors is to make sure to allot enough time to do quality work and cover all bases. It when you pressed for a time schedule then you start to screw up rushing a job. One of the few jobs I got hired to do was working at the local Chevron Station for a summer. It was really tough to hold to a narrow slot of time to do big job. This is why I went into doing my own business and no longer held to a tight time schedules.