Mopar1973Man

Yup been there done that and ended up breaking the blend door shaft. His suggestion is best yet. I had the blend door on full cold and when I put it back together caught the blend door on the wrong side of the case stop. Hence when I spun it to full hot the motor took off and forced till it broke the blend door shaft.

Most likely the grid heater relay are stuck on. Double check the relays on the fender to be sure they have opened. If stuck your going to have to replace them. Very possible that when the wires where left touching the block that the high current welded the contacts solid so it can't release. First disconnect the batteries. Now remove the large leads from the relays on the fender. Now with a DVM on "Ohms" check the ohm across both post of the relay. It should be infinite for a normal relay. If the relay is welded then the ohms will read ZERO or dead short. This means if you hook up the batteries the electricity is going to grid heaters uncontrolled. The grid heater itself is a very low ohm dead short like 0.2 ohms. Should never be a perfect ZERO either. Relays should not pass any power to the grid heater without the key on. This is the job of the relays to control the power to each grid heater elements. There is two 95 amp grid heater elements for a total of 190 amp draw with both elements going. Second tip... If you in warm weather you do not require a grid heater till about 32*F outside. I typically just unhook the two wires from the driver side battery and leave the grid heater unhooked all summer. April is unhook, and October is hooked back up for Idaho. These trucks do not require a grid heater for warm climates above 32*F. Most of the people in southern states just delete the entire thing. Not knowing where your at since your profile isn't filed out nor your signature.

I guess I better give him a call tomorrow and see if he's still around. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/

Yup this is @AH64ID ground here. Neat conversion you got. I know there is a few out there that know how to just delete the software from using the DPF, EGR and other devices on EFILive or MM3. Beyond me though...

Yes. Its very possible. Still have the alternator retested before leaving the rebuilder. I've seen a 6.7L Cummins with weird issues with electrical which I had to walk away from because I couldn't figure out what went wrong. The ECM was rebuilt by ACS as well and ECM was labeled the same way. Checked all the wiring they asked for and then hooked up and it started and ran for 5 miles and died. Sent the ECM back and had it tested again. No problems with the ECM. Hooked it up and started and ran for 30 seconds and then died again. The owner was going to just buy a salvaged loom. Now ACS does have a wiring loom rebuilder too so if the harness is the problem you can send the engine loom to ACS and they will test and rebuild the loom for you.

Now that could be seen by watch mechanical boost gauge vs MAP sensor pressure of the Quadzilla. Possibly the Smarty left a glitch behind? Exactly. So if you set it for 150% and engine load is 50% then Quadzilla multiply 50% x 150% = 75%. All the Quadzilla is doing is grabbing the fuel message multiply it by the set fuel number and then result is the new CANBus fuel message for the VP44. The VP44 can only go to 4095 fueling value (or 100% engine load). Once that is hit CANBus is done can't go any farther. This is where the wiretap can push a bit farther over the top. Adding 1,200us to 2,200us worth of pulse on top. Like @Me78569 pointed out to me long time ago you can reach 100% fuel with mere 120% CANBus, which is very true. My Economy tune only goes to 123% and max'ed out the CANBus. That's my thought too. Just can't quite figure out what is missing in this either. Shouldn't have to max everything out with 220 HP injectors and twin turbos.

Something is not right. The only thing I can think of from here is try with @Me78569 and / or @Quadzilla Power...

Add the engine load to your display or the fueling number. Watch the engine load to see if you reach 100% when you want. Or... Watch the fueling number to reach 4095 which is max commanded canbus fuel. Also remember more fuel typically requires more timing might look over your timing set up as well. Smarty stack is not suggested or recommended by us or Quadzilla Power. All your going to do is make the throttle a light switch. Horrible idea... Even with my truck I can get the tires to break free with as little as 1,700us of wiretap and reaching 150% CanBus at 26 to 30 PSI of boost. Just dumping 100% fuel right out of the hole is just flooding out the turbo and won't burn. When the fuel map is configured right you should see a small bit of smoke but by that time turbo should be well on its way to being fully spooled and then wiretap should kick in just a split second later. Mine is rather mean from light to light by 3rd gear the rear tires are typically smoking. I think your trying to drop too much fuel in and it choking to death on fuel and cant get spooled fast enough.

Still running my 4G AirDog 165 on the 2G AirDog 150 filter base no issues. Only drop my typical 2 to 3 PSI. Been the same from Stock injectors to 150 HP injectors. @rogerash0 on the other hand has a bit more injector than me and most likely a lower pop pressure. Like my economy tune I want the wire tap on top not at the launch. This allows me to get past the torque management and when I hit 3rd gear it unlocks torque management and the wire tap stacks on after the turbos are spun up and it continues to push down the pavement quickly. My wiretap is after 15 PSI so the whole bottom end is just CANBus fuel with a max of mere 120%. I can still reach 100% CANBus fueling with this just takes more pedal and just a bit more time. Now where the wire tap is dropped in is what makes the boost of power.

Too low yet. Idle is 17 PSI and then WOT 15 PSI. Your losing the overflow valve under load, then losing the cooling part of the fuel flow. Set you boost limit. Then when the next time you cross your set limit then the Quadzilla will fire up the wiretap when boost goes above the set limit. I typically set it high enough that turbo is spooled up good before adding the wiretap. Now in my economy tune I changed to 15 PSI (point at which it starts) of boost with a 0% lead in (starting at 0% up to 100%, and 40 PSI boost limit (point at which it reaches 100% wire tap) Now in my performance tune I changed to 5 PSI (point at which it starts) of boost with a 10% lead in (starting at 10% up to 100%, and 30 PSI boost limit (point at which it reaches 100% wire tap) No TPS limits used. All boost controlled, starting point, how much lead in, and when its 100%. Boost Scaling - This is the amount of boost needed for 100% wire tap. Pump low Boost scale PSI - This is the starting point of the wiretap in boost. Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percent - This is the amount of lead in fuel tap.

I just pulled the trigger on stock. I'm going to start simple and work it up bigger. Starting with standard exterior bulbs like the brake lights and such. I've placed an order for bulbs and should have them in stock by the end of the week. Any request for bulbs, colors, types, etc. Please post up and I'll do what I can to meet your demands.

Firmware up to date?

Check the IAT and ECT sensor at startup in the morning cold. IAT and ECT sensor should match at key on, no start. Take a IR temp gun and measure the brass part of the ECT sensor. The coolant temperature should be close. IAT typically matches on my truck in the morning even in Arizona. I was just down there in June and it was 118*F during the day and start the morning at 80*F. (Mohave Valley, AZ)

I would contact @Quadzilla Power and most likely have your unit sent into them for repair.

Quadzilla vs Truck is fine. Quadzilla iQuad App left running and sitting in the house the phone will complain about WiFi connection is being slowed by the iQuad Apps. It ask for me to shut down that app to gain back WiFi signal.