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Mopar1973Man

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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. Mopar1973Man
    I've got a client that lost a bolt from the rear caliper what happen is the caliper grabbed the rear wheel pulled the remaining mount hard enough that the broke the lower mounting ear for the caliper frame. And here is the part number list... 52010141AC which has been replaced by 52010141AG. Here is the part... https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-plate-parking-brake~52010141ac.html Now wish me luck on this repair...
  2. Mopar1973Man
    Well I've got a good 25 to 35 years left on me I might have another truck before then.
  3. Mopar1973Man
    Amen Brother!!! You all know I've lost my parents... Just like you said you can't take it all with you.
  4. Mopar1973Man
    Yes. It just fire protection if the alternator shorts out. Make sure your cable is up to the task too. Upgrade to heavier cable would be a bonus.
  5. Mopar1973Man
    Yes hot wiring would remove the ECM from the running. The VP44 will only idle. If you had the black box it would have a high idle switch.
  6. Mopar1973Man
    Agreed we just got slammed with snow and now flip to bright sunny day reaching 59*F Riggins.
  7. Mopar1973Man
    Make sure to drive the truck a good 10 minutes and test again. Grid heaters running will make the number inflated. You will always gain more noise at high loads IIRC the test stands in part store typically fail somewhere at 1.1 to 1.4 volts AC at full load. Lowest number here is best.
  8. Mopar1973Man
    Oh there a lot of us out here that have no belief in the Green New Deal to fix the world's problems. Tell our government to disband these HAARP stations.
  9. Mopar1973Man
    Yours held up quite well my friend mine on the other had gave up. I've still got my factor power steering pump I might tear it down and see about fixing my OEM pump which work wonderful all these hundreds of thousands miles.
  10. Mopar1973Man
    Your always a friend here... If you just need a ear to listen to let you vent my phone is always their for you. No matter what happens you have tfriends here and we are still here to help out with anything.
  11. Mopar1973Man
    The sad part is someone as a member here or members have had this kind of problem. Hence we post about it and share what is going on and create articles so we don't forget how to fix said issues. This what makes M73M different from other web forums. We work to solve puzzles and then save the solution to the said puzzle as an article. That way other members that find their selves in this issue have a much greater chance of fixing said issues.
  12. Mopar1973Man
    Boise, ID will be like 63*F on Thursday... Up here in New Meadows be close to 59*F by Thursday. The part that worries me is the sudden change is weather and possible flooding might occur or mudslides.
  13. Mopar1973Man
    Remember fuses... ALWAYS CARE SPARES! Stock ND or Bosch alternator is rated for only 136A DC. Like my friend Russ I did the W-T ground mod on his truck. First started with 150A circuit breaker. He burned that one up. Then I swapped mine in known mine works correctly. Burned it up too. Then swapped to a fuse he blew the fuse on the alternator left him stuck. I had to order more fuses. Once I did he managed to blow one more fuse before I figure out his batteries where dead and he was doing long pulls with his winch and never allowing the batteries to catch up. Then the a
  14. Mopar1973Man
    Injectors are not properly pop tested. Injectors installed incorrectly causing pressure leaks in the head. When you installed the injectors what did you tighten first the cross over tube or the injector hold down cap? Correct Answer is Crossover Tubes always first light seat the tubes into the injectors before pinning the injector down with the hold down cap. Once you tightened the hold down cap first then the injector can't self center to make a good seal on the cross over tube. Did you have the injectors pop tested and flow matched? Good idea
  15. Mopar1973Man
    I went the extra step and relocated the pressure sensor to fender adding 5 feet of 1/8" air brake line to allow for more fade time for the pulse to reach the sender.
  16. Mopar1973Man
    Ok. You need a snubber installed before the pump and stack on the sensor. Similar to this...
  17. Mopar1973Man
    2000 up should all be fly by wire cruise control. The vacuum motor for cruise was used for Automatic transmission mostly for the throttle valve cable. Manuals switched over to fly by wire being there is nothing mechanical needed to be move or pulled. If you just take in account of all the little things that changed from 98.5 to 02 for our truck you would be surprised. Crank sensor relocated to cam sensor the actual cam sensor function was removed. Vacuum cruise to fly by wire for manuals. Full disc brakes from drum rear brakes. RWAL upgraded to full 4 wheel ABS
  18. Mopar1973Man
    Basically you can buy a rebuilt ND or Bosch alternator. BEFORE leaving the store make sure to have the new one bench tested. I've actually bought brand new alternators that are bad in the box. Now once that is done then make sure to do the W-T ground wire mod, then you might want to do the PCM protection fuse mod. Have both batteries tested if one fails replace both. Then do a voltage drop test of all the cables. Ground wire mod reduces the AC noise considerably for the entire truck... The alternator protect fuse mod stops any kind of short to the blue wire from burning up your PC
  19. Mopar1973Man
    Just take a moment of time and look over the fact the US Gov't has the means of controlling weather. Using HAARP which has been around for quite some time patent was filed in 1987 by a Dr. Bernard Eastlund. Yes, all the Gov't knows about this and has been in operation since the 1987. Like change the ozone layer? Hmm.... https://www.wanttoknow.info/war/haarp_weather_modification_electromagnetic_warfare_weapons
  20. Mopar1973Man
    Yup. I talked to Jacob Kidd at @dieselautopowerabout 2 years ago and he told me he's stock a 62/68/12 turbo that is exhaust brake ready. Kind of pricey back then... I'm sure it still is... I get it... Right now I'm trying to save the money for the clutch on the 2006 Dodge so I get it to roll soon. Even that ruck needs a $230 dollar wastegate control valve.
  21. Mopar1973Man
    Most likely the bounce is most people install the sensor right at the VP44 and the water hammer kills the sensor in a mere few months. NEVER hook a pressure sensor directly to the VP44 this is the source of the water hammer. Even my fuel pressure gauge is 5 feet from the VP44 on 1/8" brake line mounted to the fender. It's not the engine vibration like so many tout, actually its the water hammer and the distance allows the pulses to fade. I've got both a snubber at the tap point and a needle valve to shut down this leg of he plumbing if a failure would to happen.
  22. Mopar1973Man
    Most likely software related. Being the only thing different is the software. Technically the guts of the ECM is the same except for the early one have EPROM issues. When you use a Smarty or SuperChips tuner after about 1,000 flashes the ECM dies. Being there is like 50 so odd different version of software for each year of truck for the 4.5 years of VP44 ECMs. Make sure the Quadzilla high idle is turned off. Like @Me78569warned about mixing the two can have some weird issues with running. Not a happy truck.
  23. Mopar1973Man
    Ummm... DAP has a 62/86/12 that will work with a exhaust brake! Ask @dieselautopowerabout the turbo... I want to buy it but bills first...
  24. Mopar1973Man
    Most like pretty expensive for that ride being diesel.
  25. Mopar1973Man
    Because the ECM has already lost it mind from the high AC voltage. Hence the P0606 code. Now with margin parts inside the ECM all it takes is a bit of heat and it gives up.
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