Mopar1973Man

First off welcome to the site... As for your setup your final ratio is too low. With 35 inch tires on 3.55 gears is going to produce 3.27:1 ratio to the ground. You need to change the tires or the axle gear to fix this. You need a final ratio of 3.55 to 3.73 to 1. Optimally if you changed to 4.10 axle gears it would give you 3.71:1 ratio final to the ground with 35 inch tires. Smoke is going to be a problem till you raise the final ratio. Like myself I'm running 30 inch tires and produces a final ratio of 3.69:1 with 3.55 gears. Turbo lights nearly instantly because of proper final gear ratio. Tuning will not fix a poor final ratio. The high engine loads to launch will always be there. Being your launching with 35 inch tires is like me launch in 3rd gear.

Don't use Moog... No longer a quality product. I bought some CHEAP AC Delco ball joints and still running on them after 200k miles.

Ummm... Order it and should be 2 or 3 days depending on location...

Come gang order up your LED bulbs... @TheGreatWhite @98whitelightnin @Nekkedbob @sooxies @Ed ke6bnl @dripley @Russ Roth @Bmchmbrs @Threadzy If there is another product you would want to see post up...

Like I said be careful you might not get them back out. If it does pose a problem you need a torch and heat that loctite up to release the bolts. Get yourself a hone brush for your drill. When the ball joints are out you can use the hone brush for the holes and hone out the rust and pitting. Then you can anti-seize the holes so installing the new joints should be fairly simple then.

Be careful. I did the front caliper frame bolts in the front with loctite. Needlessly to say the loctite and being torqued in it was so hard to remove I broke 4 sockets just using a breaker bar to remove them again. I don't suggest loctite on those bolts. Torque is more than enough to hold the bolts in.

Wobbly steering is typically cause from lift kits. As you lift the axle the caster goes more neutral. This causes the steering to wander. Now you need to add more caster and then get adjustable track bar to center the thrust line again.

Even my AirDog 150 is stable. I've got idle pressure at 17 PSI cruising its maybe 16 PSI, Then WOT is about 15 PSI.

If in northern states that use salt NO! It will rot the exhaust manifold and down pipe quickly. Not really a problem. Engine is off and cooling naturally. Up here in Idaho being the summers are much cooler this year I don't hold heat very long at all. Engine oil runs between 165 to 175*F. Coolant typically falls to 188*F and then Quadzilla drops the ignition. Without the wrap it drops temperature quickly being exposed to the air. Different story for performance. Now if your trying to get all that expanding heat energy through the turbo you would wrap the manifold holding the heat into the manifold so every little bit of expanding heat can be shoved into the turbo. There is no cooling down of the gasses from the head to the turbo.

Personally... Don't do a bunch of these upgrades. Like myself I'm at 416k miles and still completely stock. Steering is tight and no issues. My tie rod ends last 350k miles, ball joints are over 200k miles now, steering box was replaced because of seal leakage (Blue Top), power steering pump is OEM yet. No wobble or looseness. The biggest problem is people doing lift kits and oversized tires now the geometry is totally screwed up. Never upgraded tie rods, Never used steering braces, Never installed any leveling kits, Never used oversized wheels and tires. Never had any steering issues.

I've got a Samsung S10+ (Android) phone. All I got to do is start the iQuad App go to the custom tunes and and select the IMPORT button. I can also start the iQuad app and then just tap on the file in the Download folder and automatically imports.

Lost Valley Reservoir is a local lake just south of New Meadows, ID on US95. Its a short ride up a dirt road to get to the reservoir. There is USFS camp site that you can cram into and pay $15 a night for. We opted to leave on Friday morning and lucked out and found a free campsite below the dam wall and rather peaceful at night. During the day its rather busy chunk of road with people using this road to travel around the lake. Very enjoyable 2 night stay here. Once the sun goes down the traffic comes to a near stop.

I've got a pair here that are used but in working order. PM me...

Actually please contact @pepsi71ocean and update him with the company that you used and any information. He will update the page with your information you provide about ECM rebuilders.

That's being "Dripley Racist"... Don't tell me your going to go out and tear down all the Chick-Fil-A restaurants... Fun to pick on good friends...

Disaster... I tried to recondition a used hard drive for Eileen's computer and made a fresh partition table and formatted the hard drive fully. Then this morning 24 hours later the drive failed again. So I've got to buy a another set for her computer and get it fixed as well. She has a laptop with windows 10 but its not fully compatible with my network and printer setup.

As long as the Quadzilla is displaying 100% Engine Load or 4095 Fuel Number then its maxed out nothing more can be done. The rest of the time is based on how long does it take to spool the twins turbos your running. The boost number is what is unlocking the tune to fuel more with the wiretap. I would be looking at how much retard at the hit of WOT. This is what builds boost quickly. @Me78569 tune is starting out at 16* which is pretty tall amount at 1,500 RPM you'll have to play with the reduct settings and see if you can dip the timing down quickly build boost and pop back up on top with full advancement. This will take a bit of the time out.

Weak or damaged batteries with bad cells tend to generator extra heat. Being part of that load is convert to heat as it attempts to recharge bad cells. I've got 8 years on these batteries and starting to see sign that life is getting short for them. I'll keep you all updated as mine start to wear down.

Yup right there... Overfueling tunes like Smarty tend to make the APPS value hit max duration at mere 40% APPS or so of throttle. Where a proper tune uses the full 100% of APPS to control fuel. I checked over my tune and with my economy tune (123%) max I hit a full 4095 CANBus fuel with WOT of the APPS. Haze to light smoke is acceptable but heavy smoke is not going to build power any faster. Some of the smoke you can tune out with timing. Even the stock ECM software (without a tuner) can hit max fuel 4095 CANBus fuel at WOT just the timing is rather retarded.

I'm trying to remember the ins and out of cooking oil. I think the fresh stuff that is unused is fine. Just the stuff that has been used for cooking is full of salt, animal fats, etc.

Yup... Agreed.

Man... I know the feeling right now everyone is feeling the pinch with e economy being poor and COVID-19 that is freaking people out... You would of enjoyed the Adrenaline... But under stand the money issue too.

Check the fuel pump relay under the hood in the power distribution box (PDC). P1689 is a Communcation error between the VP44 and the ECM.

Yup we need to see the error codes on the ECM.