Mopar1973Man

Something I figured out the other day. I had started my truck cold after doing a valve adjustment and the grid heater was cycling in and out as normal. Then I placed my hand on the back of the alternator near the diode plate and Wow! that thing gets hot. Even with the Quadzilla bumping up the idle to 1,200 RPM with its own high idle the draw of the grid heater is considerable. I'm starting to think it might a be a good suggestion to replace my grid heater here in the future and see if the diode heat is reduced.

Welcome back, stranger... I've got to admit you've proved they are quality products to reach 1.3 million without any serious oil related problems.

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This is where I poke at the thread a bit more. How does a person like @cajflynn go 1.3 million miles on nothing more than Fleetguard filters and 15w-40 Delo and changing oil every 20k miles? Nothing special about the oil, nothing special about the filter, and nearly extending the change interval to nearly 3 times the book value?

After having to dig through my truck attempting to fix the dome light and the power mirrors. I noticed the light socket was rather burned not melted but that darker burn mark from the heat of the old-school bulbs. I went out to superbrightleds.com and ordered me a new dome light blub and a pair of map light bulbs being winter is coming, daylight saving time will go away and it will be dark in the cab for morning and evening travel. It would be nice to have a bit more light and without burning up the sockets. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/921-led-bulb-15-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/910/11267/ https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/206/6774/ Let's see how these work out. They should be here by about the 20th of the month.

Before, stock OE lights After, Super Bright LEDs

Now that's it true dark out those LED's are about 2 to 3 times brighter looking.

Time to change the air in your tires from Summer air to Winter air for optimal performance.

Vehicle: 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Category: Cummins Turbo Diesel Trucks Date Added: 2018-04-07 2002 Dodge Ram 2500  

Your on the right track then.

That's one thing I don't miss. This is the very first truck without broke hub locks, messy damn bearing that needed packing all the time, broken wheel joints. When you look back in history Dodge had several 4WD drive vehicles with all the time four wheel drive and solid hubs. Typically those vehicles rare had issues. Had several friends with the "all the time 4WD" Dodge vehicles. So in 356k miles I replaced 2 sets of unit bearings not shabby. The people with big oversized tires like 35-inch and up should be in this realm being the unit bearing are not designed for big heavy oversize tires and huge offsets. This is just way too much leverage force on the unit bearing.

I'll make another ticket and see where it goes...

The LED lights came. Nothing hard to change out the three lights in the truck. The overhead console is a bit of a trick in the garage door side is the clips push them to the front. As you do that you want to pull down slightly and start pushing the entire console back. There is only 4 Phillips screws holding the light assembly in place. Make sure to lube the switch with silicone spray and check your bulb polarity before assembly by just plugging back into power quick.

Those air hammer tools worked awesome. Knocked out the passenger bearing no problem. I was able to get the shaft out and start on getting the wheel joint changed. OMG! Seriously! I was using a small 6-pound sledgehammer and beating the every loving trash out of that u-joint just to move the bearing caps. I managed to get the out stub off. Now getting the long shaft section. I clamped it in my table vise and beat on that more. No moving. I ran to New Meadows, ID and got some MAP gas and fired up the torch and heated those ears up. The sprayed with PB blaster. Heat some more, and spray even more PB blaster. Beat on it with that 6-pound hammer. Finally after almost 2 hours I got the wheel joint changed on the passenger side. UGH! Any making claims to stuff lasting a long time smack him (or me!) This crap is totally insane to beat on it for hours to get the bearing caps off.

If you did have 0.1 ohms and both elements are powered that would be 240 amp draw. Even at 0.1 ohm and single element at 120 amps is 25 over the mark. One element should be 95 amps which would be 0.126315789 ohms. I can't explain it but a warm element has higher ohms.

Here you go the actual washable performance oil filter for Cummins... https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-7960-hubb-reusable-oil-filter-89-18-dodge-cummins.aspx Manufactures website... https://www.hubbfilters.com/ https://www.hubbfilters.com/oil-filters/ Oh... I really like your GIF there @AH64ID ... You same reaction is the same reason I will never use a washable air filter these truck. The only thing I own with a washable filter is my Honda ATV which is the OEM air filter by Honda. VW beetle. From the 60's and 70's... Took a minute...

Well, that didn't last very long. I got the headlight all installed in the truck, turn the headlights on. The Xenon bulbs have a pretty bluish tint light just like a Morimoto 6k bulb would but the pattern isn't very good. Jagged and broken edge and rather scattered. It's OK and do-able but not like a good HID light. Then I flipped over to high beams and the xenon bulbs turn off and you get the orange/yellow light from a standard 55w bulb. Ok... But then after having them on all of a few minutes the driver side bulb got dim... Then you could see the hotspot grow. POOF! Out when the hi beam bulb on the driver side. So the next thing I do is just pull the light out and installed my old SilverStar halogen bulbs. Then find out the housing lock ring notches are well different. One of my stock rings is missing a tab and you can't get the lock rings off the Xenon bulbs. Crap. All I got to say these kinds of lights look like you going to get something great. Not really. When you are trying to put the light beam against China made optics of the plastic housing you not going to get the nice crisp cutoff as the Morimoto has. The headlight housing are fine for now and work with standard halogen bulbs I just need new lock rings to make them work. VipMotoZ is going to replace the bulb. Now I've learned something else. You can't replace the bulbs separately. These are a technically a sealed unit. Once it fails you have to replace the entire bulb both halogen and xenon as a unit.

Name: 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 Category: Other Vehicles Date Added: 2016-05-01 Submitter: Mopar1973Man 1996 Dodge Ram 1500

@IBMobile Grid heater measures out at 0.1 ohm cold after been heated and quickly checked its roughly 0.5 Ohms and sinks back to 0.1 ohms as it cools. As for alternator performance is capable of jumping right up to 14.5 volts right away as the grid heaters kick out. As for AC noise, I'm measuring 10mV AC WITHOUT grid heater running and 29mV AC WITH grid heater running. Still, the alternator is in excellent condition. Still very concerning to feel the amount of heat given off by the diodes. Battery at rest was 12.65 volts this morning. Batteries took a beating but still holding a good charge. After starting the alternator can bounce right up to 14.5 volts no problem. The only thing I've not done is find out the orange/black and the yellow/black wires and when they function.

That right there would keep any engine cleaner. I know those have been proven for YEARS to do a way better job of filtering out debris and soot over a bypass filter but typically a spinner filter is a pricey add on. http://www.spinnerii.com/index.cfm/div/65/Industrial Technically that could be considered a bypass filter. So this isn't like a fair comparison being the spinner is involved.

Photos of the new headlights.

Well past this point. We've already updated to 4.3.6 which is the current version.

I typically wash the engine down when cool. I don't directly hit the alternator straight on with full 3,000 PSI. But no different than driving through a rainstorm or snowstorm where water is pulled through by the fan and splatters on the alternator. Like I've got 6 months of that coming of flooded highways and wet snowfall. Yeah that is true. Being they have been ran DEAD twice. They are not the 750 CCA rating no longer but are starting just fine for the time being. I'll check them with a volt meter today and see what the overnight draw is like.

Here we go with synthetic cleaning again. I never had any those problem with doing valve lash on any diesel where I had to scrub the soot out of my hands. Like even on my own I can just wipe my hands with a rag and then wash with soap and water and done. Again just plain ol' petroleum engine oil nothing special. Now yes I've seen even what you are talking about where the oil is so full of soot that it like pen ink anything you touch is stained black instantly.

When it just the diodes that are failing the cost of the diodes. Never had brush failure yet. Then one case failure and one bearing failure. (OE alternator). The rest where all diodes failures last year 3 alternators during the winter time one only lasted only one month and diodes blew out. I've burned up 5 of those. A couple did not even make it out of the store dead in the box. Ended up going to another store. Currently, I've got Autozone lifetime right now and it's holding up. Last winter when Installed this one I pulled the grid heater and it stopped the alternator failures for the rest of the winter. This last summer did the W-T ground wire mod. Now, this winter I'm going back to using the grid heaters and seeing if I can figure this diode failure out. Eventually, the diodes will overheat and fail. When you can fry diodes out of an alternator the only reason is high loads. The only thing with high loads is the grid heaters. Which I proved already if you leave the grid heater unplugged then the alternator failures stop. Like I've said in previous post why is my 1996 Dodge 1500 alternator which is 22 years old and never been replaced and OE yet still going? No high loads or grid heaters. I know Ibmobile is working on a grid heater switch that id Ca. EPA compliant where it does not throw codes.