Mopar1973Man

Ok. So you might have electrical issues being it started. It also could be too high fuel pressure that created the hard start later.

Click the link in the corner above.

Now that in front of my PC its much easier to do this. Here is the article.

Auto Computer Specialist in Florida... https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+computer+specialist

I'm just glad to have the towing mirrors now. I had the old dumbo mirrors for such a long time and did fine with those. I wouldn't know what to do with power folding mirrors being I rarely ever fold mine up.

I've got a complaint I've got to get off my chest. Out working for my crew in McCall - Donnelly. I was head back to town for bits and piece from NAPA. Since the main highway 55 is under construction (repaving) it easier to take the back roads. So I'm nearly back to McCall and Idaho power is doing some power line work. Yes the typical sign out for road work, flagger, etc. But as I was looking up the hill with setting sun wink through the trees. There was no one I can see on the pavement. No cones ore any sign anyone was there. No crew truck nothing. So I'm already gearing down to be cautious but apparently this gal was tuck right along the road edge near the trees but not on the road face being visible. So yeah I proceeded along slowly looking for a flagger in the road. Of course on my way back she cussing me out. As I went by. Second time I was rolling up to area where construction on the main highway and the flagger was standing by here pick up in the ditch. Not visible. I just about rolled on by past here too locking up my brakes. Stupid flaggers I'm getting tired of such lazy BS. This does mean you get to tuck in the shade of the trees or standoff the shoulder of the highway where no one is looking. Get your butt on the road face. Not over by your pickup talking to a friend or texting on your phone. Hanging out in the shade of the trees. Put cones out to show your there. Something don't keep us all guessing where your hiding. Another trip in to town there repaving a small chunk of side road near Lake Fork. There was no flagger on my side but had a flagger on the other end. What are you guys thinking? I've worked doing flagging for highway accidents. All this stuff is absolutely stupid. BE VISIBLE! Like a good friend told me a flagger in the shadows is a dead flagger!

Hey @PilotHouse2500I'm curious to see the how you hung that hood. I love the forward flip design but curious on how you put it together.

Sorry to hear this. But my first thing to do is pull the alternator have it tested instantly. If it fails replace it. Then pull the ECM and send it out and have it tested and repaired. This is not something you can just do in a few hours so I'm going have to say you going to need to find a loaner for a while.

Just like I been saying all a long rotational mass and final ratio can make or break a good tune. @Sycostang67 seriously I used to look for trucks like you to street race and always would win because I could out power them easy. With good final ratio near 3.73 and low rotational mass I can out accelerate lifted trucks on oversized tires. Fun part is people think stock tires, stock power. Funny when these same people are still behind me. Simply I've got much less in losses. Just like sycostang said his engine load is much higher just to keep rolling. Lower efficiency.

Remember like in my case the sensors were good but the tone wheel broke the spot welds and cause the sensor error. So yes sensor first if no change then do unit bearings next. Or skip that just do wheel bearings up front with sensors. I've seen one member with wore bearings and tone wheel was no longer lining up with the sensor. Be careful those cheap sensors might not be good quality either. Get what you pay for, cheap sensors cheap performance.

Yup I would assume since the clock covers the steering wheel air bag and cruise controls. Just wanna know does your horn still work too? If not I would say yup the clock spring.

Now being I've done my first tune job for a fellow forum member @Sycostang67. I did learn from his truck that final gear is a huge impact. So in his setup he's got 3.55 gears but 295/70 R17 which makes final ratio 3.38. Now the impact was much higher EGTs, then cruising RPM is too low at barely 1500 to 1600 at 65 MPH. After tuning and teaching him to keep RPMs up it runs better. With the Quad maxed out it pulls hard and fast. Then I gave @Sycostang67 a ride in The Beast whole different animal being the final ratio is 3.69. My EGTs are even lower for the same cruising speed.. in a nutshell I'm lower engine load by nearly half at cruising.. This will impact where you at in the timing curve. So too low in RPM it will tend to spend too much time retaded constantly trying to get to a cruise level.. I'm even with larger injectors in Beast and starting out more retarded in my tune. (13 degrees at 1500) but still reach cruise timing easy (20 degrees at 2k RPM). Again gear ratio makes or breaks this. I will admit after 20 mile ride to New Meadows and back I was in the passenger seat getting him to do things like slow down and accelerate up. Watching retard and advance states and how much. I'll admit I managed to shave off enough to keep the EGTs down it still get close or past 1200F EGTs. Cleaned up the smoke compared to the old Edge Juice had.

Make that about 100k miles for the NAPA track bar that I've being using. I don't have oversized tires or lift kits, so I get good longevity from a NAPA track bar.

Yup. In the article section I've got a article just for that.

Air in the hydraulics. Pull it back out hang the system vertically and bleed it back out. Nearly impossible while installed in the truck.

Might be time to send the ECM in for testing. If it test out OK that means the wiring is having issues. If the ECM is found with a problem then that it.

Should work out fine. Just assembly and get it fired up and watch for leaks being if rings are too loose might weep or to big it might nick the o-ring on assembly. Might also be good to spray the connector and o-rings with silicone spray makes assembly super easy and less likely of leaking.

People are crazy. I really hate heading to the city.

Even my OEM radiator the rubber seals gave up started weeping after 300k miles. I just bought another factory style radiator from NAPA. The biggest thing is good cap the releases at the right pressure and pH of the coolant is kept fairly neutral.

You can most likely stop by harbor freight for a o-ring kit. They have good assortment of sizes. I'm going to assume without seeing the connector it's like a A/C lines you'll use a release tool to push the locking spring back to release the lines. I typically got a lot of o-rings from A/C kits. They work good in power steering and fuel systems.

Yup looks like you @Sycostang67. Being your just here no long ago. Nice meeting you.

So on boost values it's difficult to read with any OBDII live data tool. Being it not simple math. Now as for testing I would ohm test between the MAP plug and ECM plug. Should be 0 ohm no more than 5 ohms. Now with both plugs unhooked you need to test between a pin and ground to verify no shorts to ground. It should read infinite ohms. If all that checks out I would consider new MAP sensor and possibly having the ECM tested. Also I seen you have a Edge EZ it's possible the module got water in it and the circuit board will be corroded. It's also possible the boost fooler is shot. Try unplugging all that and test again.

That thing climbs rocks good.

Not mine. The group I'm working for in McCall ID this happens to be the property manager old 1977 Ford F-250 with a 400 CID. It was last driven back in 1998 and been standing he wants to bring it back to life. So one step at a time getting the engine to run. Then getting electrical sorted out. Fuel system, etc the list continues. Like right now I'm sorting out a hydraulic leak on the steering the two rams are leaking after all these years. Now I'm going to attempt to get the last one freed ( need to build a tool). Then send both rams off to Ryan at Blue Top Steering.

Well Thor yesterday started to buck once in a awhile and trip a few codes. P2509 - Power down Data Lost Error P0088 - Fuel Rail Pressure Signal Is Above Maximum Limit P0243 - Turbo Boost Wastegate Solenoid So this what I figured out. The P2509 code is triggering the P0088 when the power drop the pressure solenoid on the CP3 maxes out when the loss of power and then when the power returns it sensed but drops quick back to normal. Now I've gotta figure out the power issue for the P2509 code. As for the wastegate code I've gotta do a ohm test from the wastegate solenoid to the ECM. It a brand new wastegate solenoid I bought from DAP. So I know the solenoid isn't the issue but it going to be a wiring issue being its also random. I can reset the codes and it will remain off for a period of time them pop on again.