01_Cummins_4x4

Sure. I've been busy just fixing minor things on the 2016 Ram 2500 Cummins 4wd that I bought May 30th, 2026.

I bought a 2016 Ram Cummins 2500 Crew cab short bed Laramie 4x4 on May 30th, 2026. Everything was working great until a week and a half ago, when my DEF reductant sensor started pegging empty or full repeatedly. I looked up the reductant sensor, and it was around $700. I figured that it was time for a full delete instead. I bought a complete SPELAB delete kit for $1,224 shipped - EGR valve and cooler delete, DEF, DPF, and SCR delete, and it came with a H&S Mini Maxx V2 tuner for the delete tune, and that includes Tow, Performance, and Extreme tunes. Also, I bought their 3.5" intake horn and intake manifold plate (comes with its own coil grid heater) to delete the OEM grid heater. You will definitely need the IAT sensor extension harness too. I installed the delete tune file first, as that is the recommended first step before removing any hard parts. I did that, and my check engine light for the DEF reductant sensor was gone. I ran the truck down the road to just check the Tow, Performance, and Extreme power tunes, and while I could tell they definitely modify the fuel and timing and added more power and torque. I decided to leave it on the "No Power" delete tune only. I already bought a like new Edge Juice with Attitude for the truck, so I was just going to use it for the power adder since I trust Edge tuning more than H& S Mini Maxx, since H&S has been out of business since the EPA heavily fined them in 2012 or 2013. Next, I removed the OEM intake horn (which removes the EGR valve and throttle valve), intake manifold plate and installed the grid heater delete kit. The only real PITA for that, was removing the fuel injector lines to install the intake manifold plate. Other than that, it was a pretty straightforward install. Then, I removed the EGR pipe and EGR cooler and installed the (2) EGR cooler block off plates onto the exhaust manifold. The 2nd block off plate comes predrilled and tapped for an EGT probe, which made it fast to install the Edge EGT probe. I haven't had a chance to remove my DEF tank, DPF or the SCR yet, but the truck runs really good now. I just got my Edge Juice with Attitude and my cabin air filter and door installed yesterday, so I figured sometime this next weekend, the exhaust delete kit will get installed. Full delete kit Grid heater delete kit View full Cummins article

I just deleted my 16 Ram 2500 Cummins, with a non-Banks intake manifold with grid heater, and intake plate, and the egr valve and cooler delete. I still need to install the DPF, DEF, and SCR delete yet. I know Banks makes great products, but if you think about the size of the intake manifold, and Banks claiming theirs flows the most CFM, it's still gonna hit the intake chamber in the head, where that will be the bottleneck. The intake chamber can only flow the same amount of air unless you buy a head that's been ported or modified to flow more cfm than the stock head. I just couldn't justify spending $720+ for an intake manifold when my whole delete kit was $1,225 for tuner with delete tune and performance tunes, and EGR, DPF, DEF, SCR delete. My DEF reductant sensor started being wonky and constantly flopping back and forth between empty and full. A new sensor was like $700+, so I bit the bullet and deleted my truck a little sooner than expected.

I just installed a brand-new actuator on the 2016 Ram 2500 Laramie CCSB 4x4 I got a week and half ago. It had the U010C code and installing the new actuator and then using alfaobd to calibrate it, worked great! I don't have a core charge for it, so I could open it up and look for any telltale signs of damage.

It's standard practice for me to isolate user personal data - pictures, videos, music, documents, downloads, and specialty software installs onto a separate partition or secondary SSD drive, to minimize or negate any loss of personal data. I have (2) AAAS computer degrees, and I was taught to protect personal data as priority #1.

B+ cable from Alternator You remove the battery + cable that goes from the alternator to the PDC, which is routed in the harness across the front of the engine over to the PDC. Then you shorten it and you should install a breaker as shown in the attached link and connect it from your B+ post on the alternator and connect it to the Battery + on the passenger side battery.

I have the Wolfbox G900 Pro and I run split screen with the front and rear cameras at the same time. It works great! I even have footage of a bull moose running in front of my RAM during this last Elk hunting season.

I've drove over a couple hundred miles so far, including on the same exact road the death wobble occurred while doing 60 to 90 mph, and no death wobble yet.

I just saw this thread this evening. I'm sorry for not seeing it sooner 😔 Is Mark doing alright now? Mike, how are things at your place now? Doug

I got my Dodge into Les Schwab because my friend works there doing alignments. With the lower adjustable control arms set at 19.5" center to center, my caster is at 3.6° positive caster, my toe and camber were right on. We did tighten up the bolts first that hold the adjustable track bar upper mount to the left frame rail. That was loose which caused my death wobble.

The adjustable track bar is brand-new also, as I installed it not very long ago. I usually get a 2nd person to move the steering wheel back and forth for me so I can check for any free/excessive movement. I've got an appointment with Les Schwab this coming Friday afternoon for an alignment.

I just installed brand-new Bilstein 5100 shocks on all corners, and a new set of adjustable control arms. There's no play in any of the newer ball joints. I don't see any play in the crossover steering heim joints. The tires are load range E that were on my nephew's brand-new 2024 Laramie Cummins with only 15k miles on it. My next task will be getting it aligned for toe-in and caster adjustments.

Damn that sucks! Sorry to hear ACS is dragging their feet on customer service and a fair turnaround time to get you your ECM back to you.

It definitely sounds like a ignition timing issue to me as well. Do you know if the ECM still has an existing tune - Smarty, Quadzilla, etc., that might have introduced timing mods other than the stock ignition timing? If the ECM wasn't returned to the stock tune, it might have too aggressive of ignition timing programmed into it, causing the knock issue.