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IBMobile

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IBMobile last won the day on November 10

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About IBMobile

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    ASE Certified Master Auto Technician

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  • Location
    San Marcos, CA

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  1. What is this "Bone chill cold" you speak of? That is a foreign term to us in the San Diego area. My block heater has never been used. I only turn my grid heaters on when camping in the fall at the Sierra Nevada Mountains and I use my boat and RV year round.
  2. I've done that on the 2000 and older Volvo window switches. I used strips of 400 grit paper to clean the carbon off the contacts but the coating on them had gone bad so the switches would fail again in 6-12 months, depending on number of uses.
  3. I think you need a new switch, read this. OPERATION The power window switch for the driver side front door has an Auto label on it. This switch has a second detent position beyond the normal Down position that provides an automatic one-touch window down feature. This feature is controlled by an electronic circuit and a relay that are integral to the driver side front door power window and lock switch unit. The power window switches control the battery and ground feeds to the power window motors. The passenger side power window switch receives a ground feed through the driver side power window switch for operating the passenger side power window motor. The power window and lock switch and bezel unit cannot be repaired and, if faulty or damaged, the entire switch and bezel unit must be replaced.
  4. No, I was just letting you know what that fuse powers and what was effected by removing that fuse. I would still start with checking for power at fuse #9 with the key in the off position. There should be none.
  5. Fuse #3 in the PDC sends power to the ECM (red/white wire pins #48 and #50) and to terminal #30 of the Fuel pump relay in the PDC. This fuse has battery power all the time.
  6. Where is this fuse? In the PDC or the left side of the dash and what number is it?
  7. @Alexio Auditore You should have asked him to super size that fluid change. He might have understood that then asked if you wanted fries with it. I've worked in shops where they would hire a guys because they had some tools and were breathing, he would be gone in a month because of poor production and to many screw ups. You should talk to the owner/management about this guy. His work ethics don't sound like they are the best. He can cause thousands of dollars in property damage along with serious personal injury and even death.
  8. How do you get it to shut off? Check for power at fuse #9 on the left side of the dash. There should be no power at the fuse with ignition off. This fuse powers the PCM (pin#1) and the ECM (pin#5).
  9. It's great that you posted your experience and are informing others of the danger. A year from now this thread will be 5 pages or more from the front and I don't think to many people will see the warning so I took your advice and edited the article changing the SS-581 to the SS-598 and adding a note about the SS-581. Thank you once again for sharing.
  10. Thank you for pointing out a possible problem with the SS-581 solenoids. When I was researching the solenoid I found that the later Fords used the EEC to trigger the solenoid and needed the diode where the early Fords that used the SS-581 had direct current from the ignition switch. If the SS-581 solenoid has a dedicated switching circuit, from battery to fuse to switch to solenoid, then if there is a spike it can not effect anything.
  11. Do you have 12v at the black/yellow coming from the headlight switch to the front park/turn signal assembly? Also ohm test the black ground wire.
  12. I don't have a diagram for a '97' but in a '99' those relays and the transmission are controlled by the Powertrain Control Module. Check the ground wires for the Powertrain Control Module. They are black with tan stripe at the C connector pins number 31 and 32. They ground at the right side battery. They go through a splice and a connector before grounding at the battery.
  13. I think you need to remove the engine wire harness, do a full inspection and repair any splices before condemning/replacing any more components.
  14. 22.2mV (0.022V) is a good reading. Yes
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