Tim Waldo

does the key lock/unlock use a different circuit? that is what has me perplexed.

So the control switch for the power locks has NEVER worked on my truck from the time I got it in 2007, I just recently ordered a new switch (yeah, I never get in a hurry about stuff) and installed it today... hit the switch and NOTHING... I can lock the doors with the key and it will lock (or unlock) both sides... but the switch does nothing... its time to fix this, where should I start?

I thought about it, but it was $22 for a new switch and it was an easy change.

Lessons learned.... to flush the ATF took me 3/4 a gallon of Chrysler spec power steering fluid before I was getting mostly clear fluid back... about 8 cycles of starting engine and turning steering wheel back and forth. I also somehow broke my brake switch when I dropped the plunger on the hydroboost off the brake pedal.. (it lost contact and threw out the calibration). You can drop the kick panel and have direct access to the brake switch... it twists to the left and slides right out.... READ THE INSTRUCTIONS for installation... it is a one shot and run kind of thing... mess up the first time and you are buying a 2nd new switch.... last thing I almost made it a even harder job by taking the brake lines OFF the master cylinder... DONT.... it just flops back with no tension on the brake lines...

the important part..... the key sizes are 15mm socket (deep), 18mm wrench, 22mm wrench, and a flare nut wrench for the brake lines. I didn't have a 15mm and used an SAE deep well that I believe was 19/32" I am currently half way through the replacement.

can I not just use the push rod that is IN my truck currently? Seems like it would be easier to replace the gaskets/seals and the kit is less than $50

So a year ago (maybe 2) I had a line pop on the hydroboost/power steering system... doing a frantic search for the correct fluid SEVERAL forums suggested ATF+4 so that is what I bought and filled my reservoir with.... It felt right and I am pretty sure that is what I had used in the past.... NOW I have a leak between the hydroboost and the master cylinder... should I flush the system and add back the CORRECT power steering fluid OR should I buy a new hydroboost module? The books have not been helpful because the service manual I bought from Genos does NOT specify the correct power steering fluid... I'm not sure if it is because I was running ATF+4 or if it was just time for the gasket/seal was just time to go... so should I flush the system and prepare for replacing gaskets or should I flush the system in preparation of replacing the hydroboost?

SO... for a 2000 2nd Gen, ATF is NOT supposed to be used? is that why my hydroboost is leaking now? I had a line come loose after the engine replacement and on a quick google search specific to a 2000 doge ram, came up with ATF+4 so that is what I've been running since fixing the line.

oh... this is all so last weekend :p

That is an awesome idea... when you have a torch :P (or remember that you have a torch).

I just played this game over the weekend... broke 3 short extensions and a breaker bar getting the caliper bolts loose, stripped one caliper slide pin (6mm hex by the way... might want to get a couple before you start), 3 cans of brake clean and half a tall can of PB BLASTER... oh.. two full days if you include the 4 RT drives to the closest auto parts store.

No Edge tuner (just there as a monitor), less than 30k on a reman motor with NEW injectors and no bio-diesel...... that and the mileage changes in accordance of auto or semi lanes when purchased.

I get it... but also why I posted here... trying to make sense of the results I'm experiencing. The 17mpg fills ups were regular Auto lane diesel...

that is odd because bio generally gives me an MPG boost of about 1mpg and the engine runs smoother. B20 specificallly.... but THAT is not the issue... none of them have had bio. I honestly think it is winter blended fuel for the big rigs... my last fill up was auto lane and I can't wait to see if there is STILL a difference.

So.. if you haven't checked it out... do... Android and Apple... That being said, do the fuel lanes for semi's have DIFFERENT diesel than the auto lanes? I've been using the APP and filling up at the SEMI lanes but have lost about 3mpg when I do... SEMI lanes gets me 15 mpg and auto lanes get me 18ish MPG.... WHERE I get the fuel is the only difference.. Comments?

SO... I give up... I'm ordering @Tractorman 's pressure switch.... I got Edge's pressure sensor installed and it was all over the place... installed a cheap mechanical gauge at the pump and it pegged at 15+psi... so I'm pretty sure it isn't the pump... which is tuned at 13-14 psi (NEVER saw 15 or more out of it). I have picked up a new screen filter (haven't changed in a couple of years) and a new media filter for the OEM fuel filter.. I also did 'LoanATool' from Oreillys and will check the fuel pressure at the pump one last time...

So.. they shipped it GROUND and took 7 days to get to me from Utah??? go figure... The part number is: p500-50-a-e4c and when it was available was a $5 part.... I'm going to go on and use the one I received for $90 +plus shipping and tax ($120).

I can't complain, it lasted 15 years... REALLY curious why they are so secretive with the sensor though... Had to jump through multiple hoops to order one.

Edge Performance Products is a PAIN to deal with... would NOT sell me a fuel pressure sensor without going through the whole trouble shooting process a 2nd TIME!!!!!! now I"m curious what is so special about this pressure sensor... @Tractorman I decided to go with their outrageously priced sensor because BOOST, EGT and Transmission temp were already running on my current configuration... Cost $120 after tax and shipping were added... I"m going to definitely check it out and see WHY I couldn't find a similar product for less...

so my statement albeit in the right intent was technically incorrect? So would I be safe just knowing my fuel pressure dropped below 10 psi? Typically my fuel pressure runs between 13 and 16 psi... with a working guage.

the over supply valve/over pressure valve or whatever you call it pops off at 14 psi... at 14 psi you get extra fuel flow to cool the pump.... at least that is what I've read and why my new VP44 came with a NEW OPValve... with specific instructions that it HAD to be installed or the pump would not be warrantied.

IF I can customize the pressure alert, I would be fine with an alert bulb... I want to know my lift pump drops below 14 psi... I'd still have to have some way to check the pressure when setting it.

SO...after 15 years, my fuel pressure sensor is dying. Called EDGE and they suggested a replacement sensor: 4000700 for $90. Not being able to 100% sure tell me it would work with the Attitude... Any suggestions on this? alternate sensors, alternate fuel pressure/EGT gauges? I am down to only using the Attitude to monitor these two things and would seriously consider changing to a 2 in one guage.... the JUICE module is apparently dead.

was this the Starlink outage I read about?