Tim Waldo

That is beyond my ability to diagnose and ultimately if it is drinking oil by anything internal to the engine, it is a warranty... I'm just trying to rule out external issues, while HOPING that it is something stupid simple that I can fix... I mean they will cover a LOT if it is a warranty but I really don't even want to go there if I can avoid it....

do you mean pull the turbo and look at the exhaust manifold ports... or do you mean pull the exhaust manifold and look at each cylinders exhaust port? and if I do that do I need to replace the metal gaskets? I actually have new gaskets for exhaust manifold to turbo.

Ok... got the back of the turbo apart finally.... sooty but dry..I was REALLY hoping for wet... Is it possible that the oil is vaporizing due to the heat? SO do I replace it with the cheap chinese A-Preimere turbo($250) I have sitting here or do I send it back and later get a Rotomaster Reman ($550 w exchange) Here is a photo of the inside of the turbo.

no movement in either direction on the currently installed turbo... I mean for 450k miles it is TIGHT!!!! but I also don't do stupid stuff like over boosting.. I'll take the "new" turbo out and see if my brain is just playing with my emotions.

SO I just received the "reman" turbo... the geometry is all wrong... it came from A Premiere. I know you can adjust angles a bit... but literally the drain is on the "top" and the oil feed is on the "bottom" not sure you can turn them 180 degrees.

is there a possibility the oil is going straight out the exhaust side of the turbo? I mean my main concern was that my oil loss was FROM the turbo(and could get worse)... otherwise my turbo is TIGHT...and I see no reason to replace it. I'm waiting on the new turbo to arrive (today) and will break the rest exhaust side down on Saturday to see if there is oil there. What size should the nuts be? If it is burning oil it would make me sad but that isn't my concern, DFC Diesel has already stated they will cover under warranty if that is the case.

so... no oil going to the intercooler or any oil on the air feed from the filter, 2 bottom nuts missing on mount to exhaust manifold (pretty sure they didn't put them on).

w150 signifies 4x4... and it is a 727 torqueflite automatic.

can anyone point me to a YouTUbe video on transmission removal on these trucks? or a good step by step guide? It's a little more involved than I thought it would be and want make sure I get it in the right order... or don't remove things that are not required.

I may do that with the old one.... just afraid to do it when I "need" the truck up and running.

and the only place that makes sense on a newly reman long block is the Turbo Shaft seals... that and I mean it JUST started drinking oil in the last 700 miles and I'm 17k on the reman engine. Turbo has 450k miles on original. Reman Turbo ordered, sadly won't be here till Monday so NEXT weekend before I can do anything.

but a quart every 200 miles?? I'm pretty much betting on the turbo... guess I'll break it apart this weekend and see if I have residue on the exhaust side.

none... https://photos.app.goo.gl/PHtop7t4BVnAiWD57

No I haven't broken the turbo loose... if I'm going to that level I'm going to just replace it... no oily mess, no visible leak. No "obvious" smoke... Would it smoke if it was leaking out the exhaust side of the turbo? I mean I'm down to two possibilities... oil rings gummed up or turbo leaking on the exhaust side... unless I get other possibilities from the group...

all I can say is I have done nothing but give 865Diesel grief over their shoddy work... so I wouldn't doubt I got someone else's dip stick.... SO... I did some research and once again 865Diesel screwed me over.... new long block CAME WITH new oil pan and new dipstick... The length is the same (45") but I"m sure the markings are off... 11 quarts shows at about 5" on the photo... The dipstick they sent back with the truck is #3935648 GENOS says the correct # for the 2000 5.9 is #3944594 correction... Genos says #3935648 IS the correct replacement and #3944594 is what it replaced.

So 17k on a reman long block, initial 1000 miles were broke in with synthetic oil (against manufacture requirements) as soon as I learned I flushed and refilled with DINO oil. That being said, I'm now at 17k and loosing about a quart every 200 miles. I REALLY believe it is my turbo (original to the truck, currently 451k miles. Not blowing smoke but the tailpipe is sooty... no oil "leaks" under the truck. If the turbo was leaking oil, how would it be indicated? at $600 to get a reman from Thoroughbred Diesel and I just better replacing the turbo than paying a shop $300 just to find the oil leak? Is there a better/cheaper place to get a reman turbo? WHAT is the possibility that 1000 miles on synthetic could have caused issues with the OIL ring on any or all of the pistons during break in? Thanks guys.

well I know what my oil is at the given oil placement on the stick... I'm good... was just curious why it changed... at 11 quarts, it shows a quart over.

honestly I don't know... the installer was over an hour away so I couldn't keep as much of an eye on them as I would have liked.... I PRESUMED it was my original pan.... dipstick seems to be my oringinal... but again who knows.

So my truck a 2000 5.9 ALWAYS took 11 quarts which would bring it up to the bottom of the top line on the dipstick... Two years ago I had to have a reman long block installed and now 11 quarts makes it look like I'm running a quart over on the dipstick.. Has anyone else noticed a difference, I've seem people arguing on-line about how much oil to fill when doing an oil change so it is possibly a real thing. Just thoughts that have been bugging me.

So a Geno's cooler (single sided) would be a waste of $$? I'm about to change my transmission oil and now would be the time to put a cooler on. I don't tow much but on my last trip to Florida(not towing) my temps got as high as 205. Did you make your own heat shields? or buy them somewhere? Thanks, Tim

So it is going to take more diagnostics on circuit B, there was no voltage through A at all.... I put in a push button to get by for now (I actually wanted a push button as an additional layer of security) I am pretty sure the ignition switch just bit the bullet. So by chance do you know where the bypass is for the clutch bypass is? Always a good to know. THANK YOU for the schematic. Tim

So, 2000 RAM, 5 speed. I have bypassed the signal wire and jumped to 12v and engine starts, I have checked all fuses and relays (to best of my knowledge), I also jumpered the clutch safety switch which did nothing.... Wait to start light still works as expected, what would keep the 12v signal from making it to the starter? I know I can just put a push button in to bypass but I want to make sure this isn't a bigger picture issue. This literally popped up outa no where, stopped at a store, and when I got back in it wouldn't crank, I had to roll start it, luckily was on a slight slope. Thanks in advance. Tim

Yes painful to the extreme, the shop did not help matters ANY... Vette your shops if you are going to trust your truck with them.

That is AWESOME... will remember for future reference.