Tim Waldo

it was the round module that actually was connected to the "tap" wire , when I get the replacement I'll take a photo of it and share, just for clarity.

There is a sensor mounted on the VP44, I don't know if it feeds the ECM or the PSG... but running on the ECM or on the breakout box the VP44 runs the same... like it is out of time. They are bench testing the VP44 they sent me and I am upgrading to a VP44 with new electronics.

I"m sort of stuck at this point, from listening to it they believe it is the sensor that gives the PSG timing information... but won't know until they put it on the bench... and even though I'm going to pay the difference to get new electronics, I'm going to specifically ask what exactly failed on the original pump I purchased.

after hooking up the breakout box, the engine ran the same with or without it, they had me pull the VP44 out and send it back for a run on the bench, I am upgrading to a pump with all new electronics... rather than the refurbed pump only.

Just talked to TD, where I got my pump and injectors... they said based on the original code that started the issue P1689, that the ECM was very likely at fault... they are sending me a breakout box to see how the truck runs with the ECM out of the picture... they also suggested cleaning the MAP and IAT sensors. I do not believe that I have air in the fuel lines. Honestly I don't see how the pump running independent of the ECM would make a difference, but willing to try it.... I guess the ECM could be telling the pump to do things that are out of band....

The one thing I wished I had known was the gasket for the intake air heater... I believe it takes two... and yes the tappet cover gasket can't be done without pulling the VP.. though when mine was done they had issues with just the gasket, ended up needing a full tappet cover and gasket.

So after new injectors it may very well come back to the timing is off on the VP44 (shift issues are in a manual transmission, power loss anyway). the W-T mod has been mostly completed, ground wires specifically. My code reader can't see both the IAT and ECT (what is a suggestion on a code reader that will give me everything I need specific to this truck). What would have made the truck just die with no other codes? Also, other than low fuel, what could be letting air into the system? Thanks, Tim

Ok, I know things can cascade, now I'm wondering what all sensors I SHOULD replace. Started with a replaced VP, was running rough and lots of white smoke.... so replaced with remanufactured Injectors and new tubes... still white smoke but was improving. Scanned for pending codes and nothing showed up. Took for a test drive the smoke cleared up A LOT but still loss of power going into 3rd gear and again going into 4th gear... and then it just shut down on me with a code of P0112... fired right back up and got it home with the same power loss on gear changes. Can an IAT shut the engine down? Should I replace any other sensors? I replaced the IAT, MAP and Crank position sensors all in 2008. Just because, no codes were being generated, Crank position sensor was replaced in or about 2013 because it was throwing codes. Thanks, Tim

What are your suggestions on getting them checked out? Dealership?

SO the voltage the scan tool is getting is some not standard report.... Checking Pin 7 with a DMM I get 12ish volts. I don't know where the scan tool is getting it's voltage from. I apologize for the confusion, it took being on the phone with Thoroughbred to have me actually check the plug at the back of the vp44. They suggested it might very well be the injector lines not quite seated on the injector(s) or possibly one or more injectors just don't like the new pump... Truck does have 430k+ miles and the injectors have not been touched since I have owned the truck (right at 220k miles)

So I did the W-T mod for grounds (mostly, not quite done with that) ECM and Injector pump voltages came up (ECM to 12-14 volts, Injector pump holding around 9volts) but I'm still getting white smoke and a heavy diesel smell from the exhaust , is there anything OTHER that the VP44 timing is off that you can think of that would cause it?

What I was thinking... just wanted someone to tell me :P I picked up the supplies to do the WT mods this weekend... THANK YOU.

Alternator output solid at 14v. ECM voltage output varies, Injector pump voltage varies. Is this normal, if not, what should I do? Thanks in advance, I've ordered the scan tool that was being used so I can check whenever. The problem is I don't know what the typical values should be. Tim

well to just qualify the statement a bit more, these guys had done other repairs on my truck and not been the most reliable... but they have been consistently almost good enough... will still use them but getting less and less need for it. I'm basically getting the tools I need to do most the work...and they fill in when that isn't the case. Tim

One final, FINAL note... First, yes I was lazy and paid them to change the sensor.... Yeah, not making that mistake again... The rest of the story.... So while I was checking the alternator for AC, I isolated it... in isolating it (no I didn't disconnect the batteries) I shorted from the alternator output to a ground wire?? anyway I blew the 140 amp fuse in the primary fuse block... you know the one, it's bolted in between two large power leads?? So wasn't having any more codes, but my alternator quick putting out 13.4v Thinking it is internally regulated I replaced the alternator (mind you I pulled it twice because it tested good the first time on the bench, and then I took to local parts dealer and had it tested IN the vehicle)... new alternator and STILL not regulating... hhhhmmmm went to DTR and researched and found out about the fuse... $4 fix at the end of the day. EVERYTHING is NOW working on the truck... a day and half well spent, probably should have done it right the first time last August. And YES corporate repair shops SUCK!!!!!! Thanks guys. Tim

So... we are at the end of this story.... The computer shop (don't know who he is, but he follows this forum) sent me back the computer after having fixed a transistor directly related to the Crank Sensor section of the computer.... told me put it back in, you may throw a code or two but it should be good. Right back to throwing codes every couple of minutes.... called the shop and they said it can only be 3 things. Your computer is now good, you either are passing AC, the Senor is bad or the wiring is bad.... SO, I pulled the wires on the alternator, started up and immediately threw codes.... That was out... today I replaced the sensor and that is where it gets interesting... the sensor the repair shop put in literaly fell out in my hand... the only other one I have personally replaced had to be sent to the dealer because I couldn't get it out of the case it was so tight (the dealer almost didn't get it out)... the one that I replaced it with was snug going in... so the ONLY thing I can see is that the repair shop that replaced the sensor for me last August put the wrong sensor in the truck... and then told me that it MUST be the truck when I went to have them check it a couple of months ago because the "sensor checks out fine"....... End story... ECM had an issue which was fixed Sensor installed by Tires Plus was totally the wrong one Wiring harness apparently still good... YAY MY TRUCK LIVES AGAIN!!!!!!!! Thanks guys, you have all shared knowledge that has helped me through this journey. Tim

So the repair shop called finally... There was an issue with the computer, the section that monitors the CKP had a bad transistor. They suggested it likely came from a jump start, though said it could have just been age as well... Can't think of a time I've actually jumped another car so I'm betting on age.... Either way, has a year warranty and they loaded the current software version on as well. Now to get it and re-install and see how it goes. I will still check for rampant AC voltage when I get it home and the truck fired up JUST in case. Thanks for the help. Tim

What is the best way to confirm AC voltage on your DC system? I had the alternator checked at a local shop, they said not passing AC voltage, but who is to say how good their alternator checking tool really is...

After looking at my ECM, it makes me wonder what happened with the truck prior to me getting it... most photos I see of ECM's have a metal tag, mine did not.... Also at 360k miles so maybe there is a magic mileage where it stars to effect the trucks. Of course I think I could have done damage trying to drive a LARGE backup light off the line that I guess is fed by the ECM?? Who knows... the ECM made it to the repair shop today, should have some communications with them by monday or tuesday... Will keep you guys in the loop. Tim

I went on and chose Auto Computer Specialist, they are a repair and return shop and had good ratings for all Dodge-Cummins transactions... They will test the ECM first and if no issues return it to me for the cost of the testing fee, about the same cost as the dealer had to test the ECM. Will let you guys know how it turns out. Tim

Do you have personal experience with this company? Do you trust them? There is a group on Ebay that is offering repair/return for $388 based in Florida that has pretty good (excellent) ebay reviews. Auto Computer Specialist 221 S St Rd 7 Plantation Fl 33317 Oh, I checked, no one near me has a 2000 truck. Thanks, Tim

Sorry for the late posts... has been a LONG weekend... Yes, I have replaced both CKP and CMP sensors (crank and cam). My PCM did have a ground wire to the body (firewall) that connected to a bolt that held the PCM in place so I ran an extra ground to the battery terminal anyway. I am TOTALLY convinced that it is the ECM that is causing the issues. First my Backup Light voltage dropped and STAYED at 7 volts... Then my LiftPump quick sending signal and then I was getting conflicting reports from Cam to Crank sensors and now its just down to loosing signal at the Crank Sensor. I had the shop that installed the Crank sensor validate that it WAS good and there were no issues with their installation. About a month ago it went all crazy reporting RPMS in the 4K range and died... I pulled a stereo out thinking that it might have been cross wired and let it set a couple of weeks...with batteries disconnected. Hooked it all back up and ran fine for a 30 mile test drive. Next day did a start and run in place and it started throwing codes after 5 minutes.. Some times it just throws a code, other times the tach dies, but mostly the tach dies (even when it doesn't, you can see it skip). Pretty sure the stereo is not the problem, its the same wiring that it's had since I got the truck, though the new stereo does have BlueTooth and I thought that MIGHT be an issue... (thought, now pretty sure the stereo has nothing to do with it). I don't believe I have anyone near me with 2000 5spd that I could borrow a ECM from and then be worried that I might fry theirs... but I will look again. Ultimately if the ECM does need replaced, what is the best vendor to deal with? Should I have it rebuilt or get a refurb and turn mine in for core? Thanks, Tim

The lines I have checked, checked out ok... Finally got around to checking #8 and instead of 5 ohms, I got 44.2k ohms. That was with ECM connected, didn't make sense to check it disconnected. I have also ran new ground wires at the PCM. I'm not just throwing codes, tach is dying too. It's only one code though both Crank and Cam sensors have been replaced. Other things that have died are the feed for backup light (found out after it quit that the backup feed voltage was supplied by the ECM. The signal to the lift pump died as well. This is my weekend to work on the truck... aside from the test procedure, what else can I check...?? Tim

Ok... I've followed most of the steps (yes only most) but I get to Number 8 on this diagnostic tool and I get 44.2k ohms.... a bit more than the 5 or less suggested value. Where is the best place to purchase a replacement or have mine rebuilt?? Thanks, Tim http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/175-p0336-crankshaft-position-sensor-signal 8. Ensure CKP sensor connector and ECM connector are still disconnected. Using ohmmeter, checkresistance between ground and terminal "C" (Gray wire) on CKP sensor connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, replace ECM. Perform TEST VER-5A . If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground on Gray wire between CKP sensor and ECM. Perform TEST VER-5A .

So... yep... still working on this issue... IF I check #8 in the P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal test procedures and the resistance is 5 ohms does this condemn my ECM?? Do I still need to do the rest of the tests? AND if the answer is YES your ECM is bad... where do I get the best deal on a new one?? Thanks, Tim