wil440

Now that's a little gold nugget of information

And I had one crack right under drivers floor inside a chassis clamp

My 98 Gas 3500 has one too, pain to get to

not quite in the same place as the G100 with the bunch of wires it's more on the round of the wheel liner Yes the cruise can is a pain to get the strip with the 2 studs back in the right place AND to get the nuts on from underneath without pushing the POS up need arms 7ft long Be careful calling that ground with the bunch of wires to it OK I did the same mine was not ok so pulled the battery and tray twice instead of once I would advise redoing that one which is G100 and the other one which is close by and check the one on the top area of that fender

That's made in India is it not, They did a CJ5 copy here in the UK in the 70's/80's ish not too sure on when

So you're saying system amps are the front speakers, my truck has a mind of it's own on sound, start it and left rear is all you get, SO turn it up and boom other speakers chime in if and when they feel like it, switch off and back to left rear

I just bought a SCT GTX 40460S tuner brand new for a steal, I know it's a tuner but that's it. I see DAP lists it for $599 ish but what is it and what's it for, I know nothing about it as I have gen 2 Rams, any info appreciated, once I figure out what it is I'll sell it

mine has 2 grounds there both factory not added

Closest drill I had was .203 so that's what it got, this is the hole down the centre, the 2 other holes one which is already there and the new one opposite you drill got .125 as instructions say

Glad you got it sort of sorted. Love the bed on the truck, I drive a 2500 diesel but have a 3500 gas 5.9 parked and slowly rusting away and that bed is just what I need to fab for it For the record here in the UK the gas 3500 will more than likely be able to be driven long after the diesel especially if gas..... sorry propane converted

I did see a picture somewhere the other day with the pump shaft sheared off. Me personally after looking at the relief valve the mod does nothing to actually raise pressure as no springs are shimmed/stretched the only thing the mod does is make a bigger path for pressurized oil to get out of the pump as in less restriction after the relief valve. Both my steering and brakes feel better at low rpm as you would parking etc

I have compressed air and blow gun but that and several tries with brake cleaner wouldn't shift it, I have a spare pump in pieces so took a at that and looking from the side through the small hole I could see light from the ends if that make sense, the one I drilled there was no light but brake cleaner would spray through it in a fashion so redrilled by hand not power

Did you check G100 earlier in the thread when I mentioned it as changed my lockup engagement ? Also the really bad wire that was causing my wiper turn signal problem was buried inside the bunch and not visible just by looking, only found the 1 strand wire by cutting the terminal off and prising it apart and it is only crimped by the way There is 2 grounds to the front and below the drivers battery

what happens if you brake but don't let off, this shouldn't then come out of lockup at all it should just drive against the brake it just seems odd that everything is as it should until you step on the brake

What's lockup like when you drop it in and out of 4th, is it still harsh or not