wil440

Spent an hour or so on it last night and while setting up the pulleys I noticed the crank pulley sitting too far out for my liking as the pump shaft has a flat milled on it for grub screw to locate but the flat could do with being another 1/4" longer then both pulleys could sit further onto their respective shafts so I ground the pump flat a little longer ( not worried about warranty as pump will be fine I just want the pulley to stay on) I'm going to loctite the pulley grubscrews tonight although the crank pulley uses 2 x1.5 mm allen key grubscrews which looks real easy to get to.... not! Then start dropping FTank

Yes comes with longer allen screws which sit down in counterbore as the pump sits over at least one of them maybe both

Got the drive hub mounted then went onto mounting the bracket onto the front of engine, it mounts onto the sump rail using the 2 middle front bolts, the bracket is shaped to sit flat to the sump flange down in the groove, got it fitted but It didn't feel right so I took it off again and noticed my sump is slightly off to one side on the holes which meant one end of the bracket was sitting on the raised strengthening lip so I need to grind a little off of the bracket in this area to allow it to seat down properly. There is nothing wrong with the shape of the bracket it's my sump that has been bolted down slighly off, the grinding won't be visible so no big deal. Something to check as while torque is only 18lbft it felt like the one bolt could have stripped in the front case,luckily I only got to 7lbft before I noticed it didn't feel right so no harm done

I wish.....

made a start tonight after work, fitting the cranks drive adaptor, here's an easy way of holding the crank to remove the 4 bolts, I usually use stilsons, maybe you call them pipe wrenches but I broke my small set not too long ago, pictures aren't great as it's dark ish but anything will work if it has adjustable jaws 90 degrees to the handle, doesn't damage the damper as it just adds a little resistance, any size damper can be held just find bigger stilsons

Thats right, I just paid 30% in import duty and Vat for the quad and assassin, but it's compound so it would be.. lets say 5k for a trans, 1500 for core, and 600 shipping, $7100 import duty is then added and it varies as each commoditiy is different but lets say 15% = 8165 then vat at 17% thats around 9500, thing is the core charge would be taxable if it was on the invoice and I'll bet shipping it back would cost more than shipping one here. Hopefully when we get out of the EU at the end of this month a good trade deal is done

I wasn't annoyed just asking the question is all as being in the UK It would cost the earth to send a core back and there is none over here so while I need to do my trans I don't know what to do about a core, I'll probably just do the trans I have

If 47re's are that cheap.... $ 150 ish then how come most rebuilders charge up to $1500 for a core, a pile of $ on parts I get but close to 25% on top for a150 core is an ouch. Problem for me is 47re for diesel never comes up for sale here, core or useable

sorry for the hijack. but if 47re cores are a dime a dozen please get me one and ship it to the UK then I can start ordering parts for the build

I haven't up to now but I have a Cat seperator to fit while i'm doing the FP and quad. Also got to drop the tank to do suction so I'll see if there is water and decide then I'd say due to using long Cat filters and the head and filter thats on at the moment being for much larger engines any water is stuck in the bottom of the filter but as the whole lot is coming off this week I'm going to do it right

Here's a picture of the cat filter head and primer, the primer bolts to the front of the filter and cat have an adaptor to change the angle of the primer to suit different applications, it's basically a peice of aluminium with the same flange as the filter and primer but it is at an offset angle, I'm going to mount the head where the original fitted and where I have a Cat filter without primer fitted now and I think the primer will be just to the side of the intake tube

I'll post pictures of my filterhead and primer later today..... after work. Only thing I've read is bits from the install holding reg open on first start. Like the looks of the pump and while I have read the forum posts on DTT it all looks super easy to fit Cat part numbers are Filter head 237-9312 Primer 569-4607 There is also a primer adaptor that changes the angle of the primer, part number4N-9624 I'll get pictures later One head used on ebay USA now

quad and assassin arrived today also got a older style Cat fuel filter head with plunger primer that Cat used before going electric primer pump. Got to put a track on a Cat 390 excavator tomorrow at work so won't be starting the job tomorrow

Just for reference now you have a good vp don't put fingers over or anywhere near loose injection lines, high pressure fuel can penetrate skin/people very easily and it's supposed to not be nice, this is more important with pop testers but if you follow the golden rule of not going anywhere near you'll not be far wrong

Only to cool the ecm as far as I know as fuel in modern engines passes through the head in a common passageway anyway so it picks up more than enough heat but I only do large diesels now, well Cat C7 up to C32, sililar size volve,komatsu etc