wil440

I'd be trying another Totally off topic here.. my wife bought a new microwave last weekend, made in china.... the 4 feet it sat on ... not one was level with any of the others, put something in it and turn it on and it turned into a breakdancing R2D2

Thats close..." Ayup mi duck" is a endearing hello to a woman. And " us just gan t pub" is I'm just going to the pub.... us in the north east means "I" not sure what they say for a group probably ussess or somat martian 😀

Here lets say we're 700 ish miles top to bottom... give or take.. from the top to the bottom it may as well be here to Mars the spoken word is that different, with the North East being the hardest. Anyone tell me what this means Ayup mi duck...... us jus gan t pub 😀

You won't hurt my feelings mate ......The rust is down to the huge amount of salt that the councils put on the roads here in winter and the amount of rain we get the rest of the year, anything that's threaded I do smother with copperslip but the rest can just rust. Truck is 1998 and for 22 years old and here it's doing ok...... most other stuff is bean tins around 10... friend of mine has a gen 3 5.7 hemi and thats rusting bad, he has just spend hours patching the frame (which is a chassis here ), doors, sills (sorry rocker panels ) wings (fenders) You are right there is a bit of a diff

I renewed both sway bar links complete about 18 months ago, now both sets of bushes are split again and it's MOT time. I had a set of Landrover 90/110 rear lower shock absorber polybushes and they are just right for the sway bar link bushes, the ones I have are a flat bush but you can get bushes with a cone shape on one side which would sit in the sway bar better. Could probably do with a thin tube spacer in the sway bay just to centralize it but I didn't have a piece of tube the right size Probably not much use to you guys in the USA but here in the UK and Europe landrover st

I haven't got the stock filter, plugs are tied up and causes no bother at all, I use a Cat filter head and Cat filters How I see it Dodge made such a pissant job on the fuel side I'll do it all myself, mechanical lift pump, Cat filters..... soon to be bigger Cat fuel/water separator and Cat fuel filter side by side Also am I missing something I thought 3um was a finer filter medium than 7um...... if so how does a 7um filter catch what a 3um filter misses or did I get it the wrong way round ??

I got a PS pump seal kit and a vac pump seal kit sent to me from Rockauto, removed both and separated them, the PS pump drive was badly worn on the drive segments and the seal path was grooved so I had to then order a complete pump which took another 7 days to get here, no big problem for you guys as you can just go to the parts store, no so here in the UK. Also the new vac pump seal was that poorly made I reused the old one, it was a Dorman 904335 seal kit

I'd be checking there is actually oil in there and then add friction modifier, like you say sounds like non went back in

I'd also be doing a oil change first, with friction modifier. Cat do one which I use. Stopped all the scrubbing and clunking on my truck. Also when draining the old oil if chunks or metallic paint drop out you know you need to investigate further. I'm happy my truck has LSD

The above wasn't directed at you or your truck, apologies if thats how it seemed more to people that get low pressure alongside next to no flow through the return and think their vp will be ok

Thanks for posting this Tractorman... gives me some idea of whats going on, I'm still not sure if I have a problem or not, I have low fp at idle coming up damn fast with rpm, to the point of my fp regulator cannot get it back to tank fast enough, only thing I can see that would cause excess return flow is a broken spring just to the right of centre on this picture.... OR as you say in your next post that it is flow not psi that matters Now that is one interesting read, my low pressure fuel system is really bucking the "required".... I think I need a flow gauge as well as a fuel

Always best to follow the diagnostics. Way cheaper in the long run

150f fuel temps would be more of a concern to me, mines 110f to max 120f, and we just had 6 days of temps coming up from africa

No. There is a short steel tube 1 1/2" I think with a small tube welded into at an angle, this goes into the filler hose with the angled small tube pointing to the inside of the tank. On fuel Boss website I think I saw it. I'd take the quick disconnect off of the tee at the cylinder head, 3/8th fuel line will push over the ridge and use a jubilee clip, take the other end to the filler neck and see what flow you have at idle, with a passenger and a bucket you could check at wot also..... do the same at the basket and you now have the tee return in 3/8th rubber, easy enough to then make o