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Everything posted by wil440

  1. That needs a little more clarification to be fair, The WT mod relocates what the WT mod relocates, this is not all grounds and someone reading this could think WT done.... I'm good..... not so, there are more and depending on the problem as to where one needs to be looking. The WT mod does take care of some very poor Dodge electrical design connected to very important systems but 12 years parked anything could be corroded
  2. Most vehicles here in the UK are manuals...... BUT when I was looking for a Ram and the first one was in 2004 I could only afford a 3500 4x4 5.9 Gas auto, 2nd one 3 or 4 years ago, managed a diesel 2500 4x4 auto but the same truck manual here is either a lot of $$$ or 2wd. Nothing to do with sissies or snowflakes..... come down to cost and availability and one other thing...... most people here buy American vehicles as a hobby and the perception is auto so that's what gets imported, yes I imported my 3500 myself but couldn't stretch to a manual at the time and if truth be told I probably
  3. And that is why being here is worth it..... who would have thought Dodge weighted the centre seat latch to stop it flopping forward in heavy braking, should have just used a normal hinge and spent the $$$ on wiring/electrics, but hey a glued joint isn't going to catapult your kid into the middle heater vent
  4. Good luck with the truck you came to the right place to get it all sorted out As @Dieselfuture says... WT mod, check alternator for noise Have you a scanner that can see live data or borrow one, check data on when running ok against when not starting, is there any fault codes.... preferrably scanned As the truck has sat for so long I'd be checking every ground on it certainly if sat outside, there is 3 grounds at and below the drivers battery, more than likely nothing to do with your problem but worth making good, I had a wiper/ turn signal problem a month or so
  5. sorry all I see there is a snake trying to eat a rabbit ear
  6. I assume that's his reply ? Does he not realise you need to replace a factory fob ? I've never seen a box under there with a button on it I wonder if he's talking about aftermarket stuff that he's seen fitted to a truck with the base CTM to give it power locks ? and possibly an alarm Come to think of it my keyring for my truck has a unknown fob on it and I think there might be an aftermarket alarm or something on my truck, when I turn it off there are a couple of chirps that come from somewhere, i've never found a box or any wires anywhere but my 3500 does not chirp when that's tu
  7. Valet button ! and what would that be for I wonder, I didn't find any buttons on mine
  8. There were no buttons on my module as I remember and I'd have thought if it was on the module there would be some reference on where to look, I wonder if he means the panic button on the remote
  9. I wasn't ripping your suggestion to peices I assumed someone had already swapped to the later and was sort of talking out loud about the dash warning on the 98.5 and hopefully someone was going to chime in (squse the pun) oh yeah you just ~~~+++*** to fix that. You are right though it is a pants system and needs the bin, I for one really don't need a tiny little box deciding if my truck goes turtle I'm trussed and hung up like a dead cow, although with me being in the UK a project to figure it out is a no no as I have zero access to parts except from the USA and shipping is that expensiv
  10. IIRC the light on the dash for a 98.5 is a warning that there is a problem not that the belt is actually buckled or not, I never fasten my belt and there is no light to tell me or chimes for that matter. I also can't remember whether my belt locked when I had the problem....... poor memory or what !
  11. So does the later belt retractor fit the seat ? and what happens to the light on the dash as any warning lights on the dash here is a straight MOT fail
  12. what's it shift like into all gears from a stop ? If it is clutch related which it could well be I'd expect certainly 1st to be a problem and all gears ought to not feel right, thing is though once a gear is got (stopped) you may well find it will actually go into all the others a little better so skews the test, me I'd be testing all gears sort of seperate, as in test 1st, do something with it and then test 2nd tomorrow and so on Is there anything in the oil ? as in metal flake, is it time for an oil change ? Is the rear crank seal leaking (this can swell clutch material, usually s
  13. If it's neither of those then it can't be a 2005 then ?? I've already asked the guy if he's done a vin check, no reply It is very easy to fool the import vehicle checks here and get something put onto the registration document wrong this then adds value and most here wouldn't know the difference when buying
  14. Don't forget brake/clutch fluid will not cause or encourage rust really and if pumping the pedal and then going for the gear straight away with the pedal STILL down after the last pump then you're pretty safe to say hydraulics are ok,, only other test I could think of for hyds is driving and do the same thing, couple of quick pumps and then shift maybe another test is drain the box and fill with something thicker, this may change how the syncros grab but just a test, drain original oil out and save it if it's ok, I only say this as I have lots of different oils around and I was a Caterpi
  15. I just come across a Ebay UK ad for a 2005 ram 1500..... seller is a importer of vehicles from Japan and USA anyway ad goes like this Am I missing something here or what ?? Dodge Ram 1500 2005 5.9V8 low miles blah blah blah So I send the seller a message saying it cannot be a 2005 and a 5.9V8, I gave a lot of info as to why and left the gate open for a "oh it's a typo" Seller is Adamant it's a 5.9V8 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274734560722?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11051.m43.l1123&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=05508a4ec9204bf086b58034fb9acdb9&bu=
  16. I really don't see the point throwing a master cyl and slave cyl on until proven thats the problem hence pumping the clutch up to test, if it does pump up then consider a master and slave, if it doesn't make the slightest difference then it's something else As tractorman said it could be the pilot bearing, also bad syncros or even worn bearings or a bad dragging clutch I don't have a manual truck but I've built enough 12 and 16 speed Gardner, Fuller and Volvo boxes
  17. I had a problem with the drivers side on my truck 98.5. Seatbelt light would not go off IIRC. Well here that is a MOT safety check fail. I replaced the whole peice in the seat back, easy to do as the seatback cover is not too bad to get off, problem was actually finding one, luckily a member on here pulled one from a yard and shipped it to me here in the UK which I was most grateful for, I've had a ebay search going since for the same part and no luck. I did get quite into it to try and figure out the problem but I can't now remember much of how it all works, what I do remember is
  18. Quickly pump the clutch up then see what it goes into gear like, 2 or 3 quick pumps, hold pedal down and try and put it in gear, if it's air in the system it will be compressed and it should make a difference on how it goes into gear, pedal will also come up a bit and be harder just the same as brakes
  19. Oh I just remembered this morning I also have maybe 50 to a 100 caliper pistons and seal kits, that long since I laid eyes on them I forgot here it is https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jackal_(vehicle)
  20. Long story on the pads.... a company here made/makes a vehicle for our armed forces, It was in Afganistan, open topped animal of a thing that used brake discs off of a Ferrari tractor (yes same Co as the car) but used 4 gen 2 3500 brake calipers PER WHEEL, when I worked for meself importing american car/truck parts I got a call from a really big company here asking if I could supply these pads/calipers/seal kits. I was collecting 10000lb at a time from heathrow airport in huge shipping crates and delivering them to the South Western tip of the uk, close to 600 mile round trip using my 350
  21. No mate, didn't say "like new" but also didn't say "you know what it drives like ~~it" was going to say "like a dog" but I love dogs ....... the mans best friend type that is, it all turned out ok as it was a good price AND wrote down correctly More of a shock on the state of it and still being driven
  22. I might get shot for this but so what I bought my 3500 from a welder in New York State, it had been at the Twin Towers with a welder/generator and cutting equipment removing the steel on the cleanup, job finished or guy earned enough or whatever but I bought it after wards, there wasn't much time difference between the job finishing and me buying it so it had been used on New York roads pretty recently before I bought it, I went over to remove the steel rack it had and arrange for it to be moved to a shipper in NJ to be shipped to the UK..... I never drove it but took it on the fact that
  23. I'll bet that plug rotted from the outside in, it's a mild steel plug not stainless, now going to check mine and spray it with rust converter and then grease it As for changing coolant... I run Cat ELC premix in every vehicle I have ever owned, if coming up to winter the freeze numbers are low I add neat which you can get per litre here, I sample at every service and never once has the lab recommended a coolant change because it's worn out I also service and repair Cat and Volvo big earthmoving equipment, coolant sampled every 500hrs along with every other fluid compartment, I
  24. My original fob from my 3500 has a panic button but both fobs for my 2500 don't
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