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LiveOak

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LiveOak last won the day on August 31 2015

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About LiveOak

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    Turnbo Hollow, Tennessee

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  1. I am installing TDS pto covers on my NV5600. I have a 5 gallon pail of Amsoil MTL and SAE 50 synthetic gear oil. I am thinking about mixing 3.5 quarts of BOTH fluids 50/50. Let's hear the comments. Perhaps something like this maybe a better compromise? https://cart.santiemidwest.com/heavy-duty-lubricants/gear-oils/chevron-delo-esi-40-transmission-pail/?_vsrefdom=adwords&_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIp_eYnriU3gIVj7fACh0XBAWxEAQYBCABEgL3pvD_BwE
  2. I spent a year over there during Desert Storm. That was enough "working vacation" for me. My oldest daughter is doing her part in the 17 year war in Trashcanistan as a nurse. She is getting a BIG dose and a FULL plate of the real world. Not this decaying, communist leaning, house of cards called FUSA. I called the Fleetguard and they put me in touch with one of their engineers who was familiar with this centerfuge. He told me that it would work on the 5.9 Cummins. Most of the time the oil pressure is in the 50 psi range or enough to make the centerfuge work. Worst case is that it does not spin or does not spin fast enough at idle and/or low power but your are still getting full flow oil filter protection with the standard oil filter. Is anyone currently using the Fleetguard LF9028?
  3. I have a Fleetguard CH 41102 centrifugal separator that I have loaned to a friend to fabricate the lines, fittings, and mounts as well as figure out how and where under the hood it can be mounted so both of us can have ideal engine oil filtration. These units will filter oil down to .1 micron. With a trip to Iraq and another trip recently to Kuwait, the project has had a few stops and starts but still waiting to see what he comes up with. In the mean time I am trying the Fleetguard LF 9028 oil filters. Anyone have any experience or comments about these? I have been using Balwin BD 7317 filters but not sure they are as good as I was expecting or wanting. Fleetguard Centriguard CH41102 bypass oil filter installation instructions.pdf
  4. I have been pre-filling oil filters on every engine I own for almost 45 years. Never had a problem. Below is what the 2002 Dodge Ram FSM says about this: I understand the comments about unfiltered oil. In fact I have found new filters with foreign material in the filter and what appeared to be adheasive. I either removed it or discarded the filter. I will continue to follow what the factory maintenance manual says.
  5. Glad to see you got her put back together and running with no problems or issues. I will remember the 2x4 trick. That was an excellent thinking outside the box solution. It is such a pain in the butt working back there near the firewall.
  6. Hold the bus!!! I am not sure if this is a matter of having egg on my face or crappy tolerances in Mityvac's manufacturing. Anyhow, I ordered a Motive Power Bleeder Model 0103 from Jegs. Came right in the next day. So.......today I pull up the 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 FSM and go to page 5-8 and it reads the following: Hmmmmmm..........Adapter 6921 is peaking my curiosity (yes, I am kicking myself for not having reviewed this earlier) so I Google Adapter 6921 and the actual adapter comes up for sale on eBay for around $65 but the Mityvac MVA802 brake bleed adapter also comes up in the search. Last time I tried it, I could not get it to properly thread onto the master cylinder reservoir. I go the garage, get the MVA802 out yet again and AGAIN compare it to the master cylinder cap and they look really close but the tabs on the MVA802 are twice as long as the tabs on the OEM master cylinder cap. This just pissed me off and I applied a LOT of force (way too much for what I would consider the limits of reasonable) and the damn thing just barely goes onto the master cylinder reservoir mouth. I tried pressurizing it and it held pressure. I'm going to use it. The MVA 809 would work also but the one I recieved from an eBay seller was a counterfeit version or someone at Mityvac had a bad day on the production line. The J bolt threads were incomplete and the fasteners would not thread on to them, the quick disconnect fitting was for compressed air and not the brake bleed adapter. I requested a return and the guy told me to just keep it and refunded my money. Now I am able to pressure bleed the brake system........but wait!!!!!! If you pressure bleed the brake system, you must follow the above procedure to bleed the front brakes which STILL requires 2 people or a special clamp!!!!! At least I am making progress! This I believe will be helpful for anyone else doing this task. http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/Brakes/beeding.htm
  7. I vacuum out the ps fluid from the reservoir and replace with new each time I do an oil and filter change. I also draw out as much coolant from the radiator and replace with new every other oil change.
  8. That is how this brake bleeder is supposed to work. Just have to find the correct brake bleed reservoir adapter. Hopefully this one is it.
  9. I spoke with Mityvac Tech Support this morning and they do NOT make a brake bleed adapter specifically for these trucks. I asked them if the MVA809 which I ordered last night would work and they said most likely it would. Figured I would post this so anyone else that purchases this bleeder can benefit.
  10. I have a Mityvac 6840 brake bleed kit that I am trying to bleed the brake system on my 2002 Ram. None of the brake bleed adapter reservoir lid adapters in the kit work. Has anyone used the Mityvac 6480 to bleed their brake system and if so, which brake bleed adapter did you use for this kit. The Dodge Ram 2nd Generation is only one of the most popular pickup trucks in American automotive history........you would think they would include the brake bleed adapter for this vehicle!!! Thanks in advance for any replies and help!
  11. LiveOak

    Rattlesnake Fire, Idaho - 2018

    Wow! Mike I am just taken a back seeing all of this. I have been working long days until sunset in my apiary. I had no idea the fires were this bad where you are at. I can think of some VERY good use for those trees to deal with fire bugs who may be setting these fires. Hope you and Mopar Mom are doing alright especially with all the smoke and stress of this mess. I know the feelings of having to deal with fire bugs. Some waste of life set a fire in 4 places on one of our forestry units and burned over 200 acres. Not long after, another ****** bag set a fire that burned about 40 acres on a different forestry unit. These idiots around where I live have NO idea of forest fire safety and how bad these fires can get out of control. Many of these oxygen wasters trespass to go "hunting" on our land and set fires so they can clear the areas they like to poach on. Pardon the rant and I sure hope things improve on your end. Prayers on the way.
  12. I have not started nor driven my truck for about 6 months. She started right up but the exhaust brake in not working. I have suspicions that our dumbassed cat which has been crawling up into the engine compartment may have something to do with it. I think I have some ideas on where to start troubleshooting but it never hurts to get as much information and advice as possible before hand. Does anyone have any comments or suggestions on solving this problem. Thank!
  13. LiveOak

    eaton roadranger 10 speed swap onto 5.9 Cummins

    I realize this is a dated post but WOW! JAG took the words right out of my mouth, great minds think alike! Absolutely amazing. What a remarkable example of engineering, ingenuity, and down right American resourcefulness. Great job!
  14. I have found that I get the best fuel economy at around 45 to 50 mph but in this day and age, driving that slow is now a safety hazard since even the slow pokes drive 65 - 70 around my area. To use the left lane and not have people up on your butt, you have to drive at least 80 mph and sometimes people are doing 90. Driving 45 mph on the Fort Campbell manuever reservation when you could drive through there which basically had no traffic, I regularly got 24 to 25 mpg and on my best run totally empty during Summer got slightly over 26 mpg. My fuel economy drops like a Simonized piano once I pick up the speed and gradually goes down to around 12 to 14 mpg driving 75 - 80 or above. Our trucks are not exactly the most aerodynamic vehicles on the road and aerodynamic drag is squared as you double your speed. It is a HUGE drop from 45 mph to 85 mph. Nowadays, I just take it easy on my old girl. Still got my 2002 just as it is in my signature. She is almost 16 years old. Around local driving I get 17 - 19 mpg. On the highway, I still get 20 - 23 mpg depending on how fast I drive, what, and how much weight I am hauling. She has been a good ole' truck.......God willing........I think I'll keeper another 16 years.
  15. Just to ensure ALL air is purged, try loosening the fuel line fittings from the pump forward up to the injection pump. You can do each fitting individually looking for a nice fuel spray. Let it spray for a short moment looking for air pockets purging. When a steady fuel spray appears, tighten that fitting. This should take only few seconds at each fitting. Normally this should be able to be done by just removing the cap from the OEM fuel filter canister, bump the starter and let the lift pump run until the canister over flows. I am not exactly sure of how your fuel system is configured so am playing it safe. The OEM fuel canister you can manually fill and then torque the top tight or you can leave it setting loose on top of the canister and let it over flow and then try to tighten when it does. (this method makes a mess) I have done both and prefer to just fill the canister from a known clean fuel container, allow for the new fuel filter to absorb the fuel, then install and tighten the plastic cap. Move over to the VP44 pump and loosen the fuel line fitting and repeat the purge procedure. Now bump the starter a few time to push as much fuel forward into the injector pump. Finally loosen the injector lines to the first 3 injectors. (more if you prefer) Now you will have to turn the engine over with the ignition switch until you see a very pronounced fuel spray at each injector line fitting. Continue for several revolutions of the engine to ensure all of the air in the lines is purged. (yes this will make a mess). Quickly tighten each fuel fitting as quickly as possible to minimize any air that may seep back into the fitting. Make sure all of your tools, rags, etc. are secured out of the way and accounted for. Hold the throttle at about 50% and crank the engine over (ensuring you have a fully set of batteries). Hopefully it will start and sound like a wounded buffalo but hold the throttle pedal at 50% and allow the engine to rev up but not over 2500 to 3000. Hold this engine rpm until all of the other cylinders catch on and the run smoothly and push any remaining air through and out of the injectors. Hope this was not TMI. This is what I had to do when my fuel sending unit went bad and I ran my truck totally dry on fuel. Hopefully yours will fire right up as well. Good luck!
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