Gregturley

Thanks everyone for the input.

I haven't seen any smoke out of mine. Don't really see any difference in mileage either but i tend to drive 70-80 on interstate and do a lot of stop and go driving. I had about 178xxx on original injectors so figured it was time to replace them. Good thing about this truck is i have all the service records from new. I was just wondering what real world TQ and HP these trucks put out with these injectors installed but have no desire to put it on a dyno.

Has anyone installed RV275 injectors in an otherwise STOCK or very lightly modified truck and ran it on a dyno? Anyone made dyno pulls mostly stock vs 275 injectors? I have a 01 4wd auto. Bought it cheap with 174xxx miles needing some minor work. The only engine upgrades are a BHAF, a Fuel Boss pump and new Bosch RV275 injectors. Truck runs much smoother with better starting after the injector swap but I'm curious how much HP and TQ the injectors really add.

Serious question.. Has anyone here ever had vapor lock on a diesel? I'm not talking about "I ran my diesel dry now it wont start" situations. I haven't but I've only owned 2. I've been a mechanic 28 years and never ran across it. Don't know anyone that has. I have come across bad and weak pumps on diesels but most my career has been working on gas engine vehicles.

@dieselautopower I talked to someone there about it before and it looks like I'll be renting one from you before cool weather gets here.

Thanks @dieseled thats what I thought but wanted to double check.

You cannot use the Smarty to correct speedometer and have that stay after returning to stock program can you?

Thats the nice thing about the aftermarket. There's something for everyone if you look hard enough. The hard part is figuring out what you want to spend your money on.

Anyone near Louisville KY with a DRB111?

From my research there is nothing stopping you from putting almost any filtration system that you want after the FB pump. Right now I'm running a Baldwin PF7977 filter in the stock filter housing. Better than stock 01 filter, not as good as FASS filtration, but easy and what i can afford.

I will probably rent on from DAP if i can't find anyone local. Wanted to get it turned on so I can install the mopar1973man idle switch. Just figured I'd see if anyone here was local and wanted to make a few $$. I don't trust the dealers around here. I tried to get a few of them to do a flash on our Grand Caravan. Had service bulletin in my hand. 2 dealers flat out refused to do it. 3rd had me talk to their "best drivability tech". After talking to him i gave up. I really need to find someone with access to a DRB111 that knows what they are doing with it.

Is there anyone around Louisville KY that has a Smarty and can turn on my factory high idle? I really do not want to take my truck to any of the dealers around here. 2001 2500.

It's true most electric pumps are designed to push. Mechanical pumps don't seem to have that weakness as they have been used for decades in push and pull applications with far less problems than electric pumps, with the mechanical pumps flowing more volume in many cases. I crewed on a 2300 hp twin turbo drag car that had 2 massive electric fuel pumps mounted less than 1 foot from the rear of the fuel cell. We had fuel starvation issues when the car launched. We changed to a mechanical belt drive with the pump mounted to the motor plate, fuel cell still in the trunk, and solved all the fuel issues. This car pulled 1.15-1.18 60 foot times consistently after the change.

Its not a filter its a strainer. Look back through this post to find the part number if you want to look it up. Just keeps big chunks of crap out of the pump.

Rotella 15w40 & on cold start with Autometer gauge at oil filter head I have 38psi idle and 85psi 2000 RPM. Hot idle 30psi idle, 75psi 2000 RPM. Factory dash gauge reads a few pounds lower but seems to mirror movement.