Red Rambler

I would also grab a fleet guard fuel strainer to run on your fuel feed line which will catch the larger stuff if you happen to run across some dirty fuel. Fleetguard FF5079 https://www.glacierdieselpower.com/i-1140-fleetguard-ff5079-3-8-inline-strainer.html

I will for sure pull my center caps and spray the axle but with some of your mixture. It will be a few days before I get to it. Yes, thanks for the reminder. I have not even thought about the axle nut until now. I have a few breaker bars and cheater pipes to throw at it. I am hopeful to do one side in a days time, unless all goes smoother than planned. Not likely though.

Haha. Thanks for that. I will for sure give it heck. It will all have anti seize applied once I do get it apart.

Nope. Not by me and it doesn’t appear to have ever been apart. I have been spraying it with PB Blaster for a few weeks now.

That’s the truth. Not a ton of things, but I’ll take it when it’s an option. Thanks, I’m gonna need a little luck from all the hours others have spent trying to separate the hub

The u joints showed up today. Beefy units, I looked and they appear to be the identical units as the stock u joints. MADE IN THE USA-maybe everybody else knew this.

I ended up purchasing spicer SPL55-3X from rockauto. Thanks guys for your help with this.

I may be confused on what I am ordering on rock auto. It says front driveshaft at front axle, are they meaning transfer case? edit: I think I see what you are saying now. Some say front axle at wheels. I misunderstood what I was reading. Thanks for clarifying. I ordered these thinking they would work as axle at wheel u joints. It says front drive shaft at front axle, but also says CV at front transfer case.

Thanks sir. Mine look to be a bit rusty after checking yesterday. I fully expect they are not gonna come out without a fight. The first part of the battle looks to be getting the hub removed. What made that part go a little better? I have seen guys using their power steering and an extension/12 point socket but not sure how I feel about doing that? What are your thoughts on the below? Or

I have a issue while turning, feels like the truck is possibly in 4 wheel drive, and it’s definetely in the front end. From what I have read it could possibly be front axle u joints. Since these are not terribly expensive what brand is suggested? Rock auto has quite a few brands.

I went ahead and bought the below bushing to get the job done. Thanks guys.

I am getting a 0-60 boost gauge. Is the below location a good location to put my boost gauge feed? Or is the boost bolt a better setup?

I have the Hankook dynapros and I really like them. I have roughly 30k on them so far, they have worn very well. I rotate every oil change and have white letters out. You will like them, certainly not any road noise either.

You bet, it’s a very accessible location, you will cut the rubber hose and then make a second cut to remove a short section about 1.5” long. Enough to allow diesel to drain down your arm and into your armpit however that will hopefully be your last go at having to mess with the check valve.

The strainer is pre pump (fuel boss). Make sure it’s a strainer and not a filter. The filter will cut down on flow, however the strainer will still allow free flow, but will catch the larger debris. To answer your question it’s before the T that runs up to your stock lift pump, if you have the block mounted lift pump. In the below picture, put your strainer after your hard line, obviously, but before the yellow T.