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Red Rambler

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    Harrison, AR

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  1. Thus far I have purchased: Blower motor, accumulator kit, O-rings, condenser to evaporator line, orifice tube, a bottle of PAG 100, Evaporator and heater core. I still need to find the AC mineral oil. I plan on taking a few days to complete this but will take some pictures for reference upon reinstall. Thanks for the help with this so far, I know I will likely have more questions. I will be ordering the heater treater part as well for the blend door. This is quite pricy, so fingers crossed it is the evaporator and not the compressor lol!!
  2. Thanks Tractorman, I will take a look at the cabin filters. I can only assume my compressor is original with 140K on it. At this point I am jus throwing parts at it. I have these added to my rockauto cart, Blower motor resistor: 20.79, Blower motor 39.79, and a A/C accumulator/dryer kit: O rings, accumulator, and condenser to Evaporator Line: 34.79. I will take a look at the Heater treater part, as I might as well if I am inside the HVAC box.
  3. That will be my next part to replace if the evaporator does not fix the issue. The evaporator was the cheaper of the two evils, but would likely be harder to replace..However, I did get a few hits inside the cab with the sniffer, so that's why I decided to start there. I do hear a clunk at times when the heat is turned on. What would cause that to happen?
  4. So, its been a minute since I have messed with my AC, but I have purchased an evaporator and a heater core. I am looking to tackle this repair soon, before the heat sets in...I didn't drive my truck much last summer due to the AC issue. I never could find the leak even with the sniffer, so my thoughts are that it is likely the AC evaporator core. I did get a few hits with the sniffer inside the cab, close to the HVAC box, but no hits anywhere under hood. While I have the HVAC box pulled, are there any wear items I should consider putting in while its apart? Thanks.
  5. My strainer is pre pump, and my filter is post pump, if that is what you mean?
  6. I have the fuel boss as well for 20,000 miles and it has been flawless besides one hiccup. The smallest piece of debris can keep the check valve open on the return line and then the fuel flows without any restriction, and your pressure drops. This issue has been alleviated by installing a fuel STRAINER on the feed line made by fleet guard, not a fuel filter, but a strainer to catch the larger material. If you happen to get any dirty fuel it can be a pain to get fully cleaned out and back to normal 17-20 fuel pressure.
  7. Thanks @Junkman I am going to try the leak detector first. See if I can pinpoint where the leak is coming from. That guy is passionate about that ac stop leak for sure.
  8. I am going to guess replacing the bolt isn’t going to fix your leak. Mine had a similar leak but all bolts intact, and it made a huge mess on the front of my engine as well as all down the drivers side block, it was the actual vacuum pump seal. I thought mine was the oil pan. Resealed my vacuum pump and leak fixed. If you do go this route make sure you put the oil feed line back on before you attempt to secure the pump back to the case. However I do hope that putting the single bolt back in solves your problem. The bolts are 15MM that hold the pump to your case, but can’t recall if fine or coarse thread.
  9. I was just looking over your article where you discuss this and have a strap from the passenger side grab bar. I feel comfortable enough taking it apart, but will take a few days to do it for sure. That’s a great suggestion to possibly save myself some time, I might check with oreilly, see if they have one for rent.
  10. Sorry, r134a is what was added. Not engine coolant. I saw on rock auto they aren’t expensive at all, roughly $40, for evaporator core and heater core. I would rather throw new parts at the hvac box while it’s out, but will do some more reading and found the moparman article on the hvac box removal.
  11. Thanks @dripley and @Bullet I am going to tackle this for sure, I have a Tahoe that I can drive while my truck is down. Gonna look up the moparman article for the dash. I appreciate the help. What else should be replaced while I’m in there? Or is their a kit for rebuilding it?
  12. Thanks! I hate throwing parts at unknown problems but when it comes to AC sounds like that might be my best bet. I might start with the new compressor, since it is the lesser of the two evils or so it sounds. Thanks bullet, I have not messed with anything AC honestly so I’m gonna look up the evaporator, see if I can find a few pictures of someone diving into this repair previously since it sounds pretty involved.
  13. Since warm weather is just around the corner I need to get my A/C fixed. I filled it with new coolant and it lasted good for a month, but it eventually leaked out. I used the leak test stuff that you put into the AC lines and you use the glasses and the light to check for leaks however did not find the leak. Where are the most common places to check for leaks or even replace? I thought about buying a new seal kit but wanted to get some opinions first. Thanks all.
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