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    Prescott, AZ

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  1. Just wanted to update this post before its left for dead in the depths of the forum. Not that its really of any importance but were about 2 weeks in and I've yet to see any issues with it finally. Lift pump seems to have done the trick. I was worried about the draw straw that AirDog provides and installing it wrong and I've gotten down to just a hair above the E mark and no hesitation due to air being sucked up or anything even with uphills downhills turns traffic its doing great so far. Thanks to everyone for there input and help along the way
  2. So from the sounds of it i probably dont already have the ability to lock 2nd. I will have to ask a friend of mine who built it then. As far as i know i've got all Transtar internals with a transtar billet triple disc converter and a transgo shift kit (not sure if theres even any other brands of 47re shift kits) Im sure i could ask him and see if he remembers exactly but there a busy shop. He's gonna stab me if i tell him i want to do another lockup switch. He swears thats what killed my transmission but i think its because i had to haul my other friends fully loaded f250 (powerstroke, giant camper, steel trailer, all of his things in his bed plus everything in else in my bed) back across Palomar mtn he was half way to Ocotillo wells when he lost a fuel line and my trans was still bone stock (absolutely no gauges at the time either but at least it was cold out). If memory serves me right, if i had a bone stock trans at the time but with a lockup switch and got cruising at around 20-22 mph (idk rpms) enough to actually shift into 2nd then hit the switch and had it react would that be a rough forced shift to 3rd and not 2-lock. I remember trying to do 2nd gear but its been over a year and a half ago now and i cant remember but i do remember a lower speed jerk into either lockup or the next gear and a check engine light because i did it the way where they say to remove the relay and hotwire the pins with a jumper wire and wire in a switch to ground for the torque converter lockup circuit.
  3. Got the Airdog 150 installed Friday night and taken it across town a couple times this weekend. All seems well so far
  4. @IBMobile I was reading your article on the mystery torque converter lockup switch. Just out of curiosity what mods does the valve body need for 2nd gear lockup. I didnt see it mentioned.
  5. I figured this out the hard way. I used my 4x4 once to make sure it worked and although i didnt need it and i was just out in the dirt it did work. Then a few months later i actually needed it and it wouldnt work. I just assumed it was the switch at the transfer case and it wasnt the issue. The aftermarket world sells the vacuum actuator kit to replace just the diaphragm and thats the route i went for cost saving. In my case the light wasnt coming on at all and once i replace the actuator it would come on again
  6. The governor and sensor are both really common. I wont sell one without the other working here at the dealer because i cant have people coming back in for the same problem and then there pissed about the wasted fluid and the extra work and extra money. Having any codes would be a huge help. If there really isnt any transmission codes it wouldnt hurt to make sure the shift linkage under the body is in good shape. I've never heard of any issues with it but given its a swapped truck its likely to be different from stock or they've used a linkage from another truck or who knows. The throttle valve cable? Isnt there an adjustment on that cable too? I cant remember maybe its only adjusted with the allen screw inside the trans. A quick search on my dealer site doesnt give me any info to any specific cases or service bulletins. Theres the tool on here if you do find a code.
  7. My lift pump went out like a week before your post @Marcus2000monster I finally got one ordered up and it came in friday. Hopefully i'll get it installed this week before the rain/snow is supposed to come back this weekend. Then i can focus on other things and hopefully come up with a parts list and some info
  8. I used to be the same way unless it was my ford and i used the factory trans pan gasket on it. But since i work here and have all the information at my disposal and get a discount it only makes sense. I get factory fuel filters and when my dash fell apart i even ordered the factory cover. Its pretty nice owning a dodge and working here too unlike before and spending 35 bucks for a gasket alone. I will say alot of our prices are totally out of whack. Like the plastic push pins and rivets sell for over 5 bucks each whereas napa sells them for 5 bucks for a ten pack.
  9. I hear you there. Working with the shop at the dodge dealer here I see and hear so many different things changing and this part fits this but not that and all the back and forth then dealing with a catalog thats wrong half the time anyways its hard to keep your facts straight after a while. I keep a data book that i wrote up and put together myself so i dont have to wait for the computer and i know its right. Chrysler doesnt offer that kind of help. The most recently dated cheat sheet is 2011. I could fill this page with complaints lol.
  10. Nope thats how mine is too. Plastic cap its like a 22mm wrench or something to get the cap off and the filter is right there. OE Filter part# 5015581AD fits 2000-2002 according to the manufacturer but if you interchange it im showing it fits 5.9s all the way to 09 according to oreillys parts catalog. 99 and older is the all metal canister i believe.
  11. It was completely rebuilt by a friend at his transmission shop. Billet triple disc converter. Almost everything internal is new. Thats actually was caused the transmission to go out was the torque converter welding itself together.
  12. Honestly its probably all of the above. I know the radiator is packed full of junk from the crank breather. Im sure the fan clutch is original. The water pump is starting to seep a tiny bit. Coolant is old pond water and needs to be replaced. The bigger tires and highway gears is killing me too. I know the trans cooler needs to be upgraded too. Sitting in a drivethru on a hot summer day i have to keep it out of drive or the trans will get too hot. I can start at the menu board and after 10 minutes of waiting to get food the trans temp will go from 160 to 210 but its also got no air flow at that point either but you would imagine with it under no real load that the fan would pull enough air to keep it from burning up in a drive thru.
  13. I've got a big line kit 1/2 inch with a fuel pressure gauge port. My goal was to go with all half inch lines to make the pumps job as easy as possible. Is the inlet on the fuel canister the same thread as the VP? Can I use the fitting airdog provides for the injection pump to attach my supply line to the fuel filter housing. I would use the push lock it has now but its only 3/8 im pretty sure.
  14. Back in August we picked up the rest of my things and trailer from storage because we finally found a storage place here after living here a year. Stopped at the scales and combined we were over 18k lbs. Trailer has 2 quads, a buggy, an old yamaha, spare parts, every tool i own, and the front is converted for camping. Its pretty packed for a 24' enclosed. Anyways Im stock aside from the mods i've got in my signature and at a disadvantage with tires and gearing being what they are. Coming up and over Palomar mtn in southern cali is always a tough grade. Had to pull over and let it cool down before i even got started up the hill. Then driving through the desert it was 110 degrees and we were driving with the windows down and the heater on because the slightest incline would send the temp up if i had the A/C going. Once we got to smooth road that i could really maintain speed on we were able to use the A/C. It was an overnight run so it was dark we didnt leave until 4 pm so it was quite literally 110 at night in the desert. There were some cool spots. Believe it or not 105 feels cool compared to 110 there is a real noticeable difference. Got into AZ and got to the steep grade before Yarnell and It pulled it okay i guess. The coolant and trans temps settled in well above the comfort zone but they stopped going up to i maintained speed at 15 mph the whole way up. If i remember right the coolant was like 235 and the trans was like 240 coming up that hill. Im just going off memory. I'd be curious to know what my EGTs were but i havent had a chance to tap the manifold yet. This was with the edge set to tow mode with the sub level set to 2. I knew it was a heavy trailer and i knew it would be really hard on the truck so i went easy on it. Kept my following distance maintained speed as best i could to try to keep everything smooth. I've yet to see any mechanical issues arise from this thankfully. Just this stupid fass i gotta replace
  15. Been a while but finally got an update on all this. Airdog 150 came in yesterday. Been thinking since I ordered it about how im going to accomplish this. I think the easiest way for me is going to be pulling the bed. I've got a little over 3/4 tank in it now and all i have is a junk floor jack and a dirt spot to work in so for my own sake i dont think dropping the tank is going to work for me. The Airdog came with its own draw straw of sorts and the instructions say that its for trucks that had the in tank pump. This truck has never had the in tank pump but there pickup tube is supposed to be installed into the tank itself and not the fuel 'pump' module so that shouldnt be an issue. I know i will need to plug the openings so i dont get dirt and stuff in there. The return line coming in through the filler neck is a bit interesting to me. I planned on putting an auxiliary tank in the bed one day and i havent been under there yet to see how much rubber line i actually have on the filler neck but i didnt know if anyone else already has an auxiliary tank and got it figured out with the airdog there too. Then my next thing is about bypassing the factory filter. They want you to simply run the line right to the VP from the airdog. I dont have an issue with doing this but i will want my fuel heater and water in fuel sensors given the fact it gets pretty cold here and ice gave me trouble last winter with door locks and headlights being frozen over. Im going to mount the unit inside the frame to keep it protected at least somewhat. Is there an issue with running the airdog into the factory housing? Is the filter the issue will it cause too much restriction? Do i just remove the filter and put the cap back on? I really would rather not have to deal with fuel gelling up on me. Or maybe im just paranoid and it wont be an issue at all
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