Jump to content

2000Ram2500

Member
  • Content Count

    173
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

36 Unskilled

Personal Information

  • Location
    Prescott, AZ

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. @04Mach1 I can agree with that. Injectors are cheap enough and I have to do a valve adjustment anyways and the gasket is starting to seep a little. If I'm doing the vp I'll have the lines off anyways. Who would be a better bet for a vp? Jasper or industrial injection. I don't want an upgraded one just a reliable one.
  2. I can attest to the shift quality of an NV5600 with a southbend double disc. Really you just have to get used to shifting slower. Dont force it. If your having doubts about the hydraulics you can use an H bar puller to actuate the clutch fork manually. A call to south bend will also give you that information and i think it says so somewhere in the paperwork they give you with the clutch as well. We had a heck of a time trying to install a south bend in a customers truck here in the shop. Ended up going with a factory one instead but never could figure out what was wrong with the south bend one but it just flat out was not going into gear. Tried everything
  3. To be honest @Dieselfuture ive wondered the same thing that maybe its just the pumps time to go. Its had a pretty rough last 30k miles. Tons of long cross country trips. San diego to denver and back twice, moving to arizona took about 10 trips back and forth altogether. Arizona to california to see friends and family 4 times now. Arizona to colorado. Arizona to vegas. Lots of long and hot miles through the desert. Towing an extremely loaded down trailer several times now. The last 1000 mile trip to colorado and back i was fighting p1689 symptoms and im beginning to wonder if that did any serious damage to the pump. If i get an injection pump it will be from jasper. They've got the best price i can find so far since we have an account with them it just makes sense and they have a test bench. They offer a one year warranty so if a problem was to arise with there work im sure i would see it by then. @dripley its not the actual work im worried about im worried about spending a ton of money and not fixing my problem. I see time and time again people throw an injection pump at it and they post again a month later with the same problems. I dont want to be in the position. Especially with holidays coming up. So my goal right now is to diagnose it as accurately as possible so i can avoid all that. Im really hoping the fuel pressure gauge shows up before thanksgiving so i can do that in the morning.
  4. @04Mach1 i appreciate the input. As far as the age of the parts the only thing not original is the lift pump. VP and injectors are all original to my knowledge when i bought the truck the guy said the only parts he ever had to replace was the parking sprag because it broke on him one time. I personally change my fuel filter every july. I use the factory one since i get a discount on it. I think you might actually be the first/only one to ask the age of the parts. I have no idea how long that fass has been installed on the truck but based on the fact i already had to replace one of the lines because it had a pin hole and the other line is cracking all over i would say its been on there a while. But to the best of my knowledge it has original injectors and original vp. I might just have to have the pump bench tested. We have a commercial account with jasper through my work i bet they would be willing to test it for me we seem to do a good amount of business with them and according to the verified rebuilder page they are listed as having an 815 test bench. Am i wrong in assuming that getting a fuel pressure reading will point me in the right direction or is the only way to tell by having them all bench tested. I was under the impression that finally getting a reading on my fuel pressure would be my answer. I've had my doubts about the lift pump just not giving it enough fuel for a while now i just never got around to getting a gauge for it. as far as getting the work done myself im not afraid to do it. I consider myself to be pretty educated with all this but i've never been a professional mechanic. Just a lifetime of working on stuff. Quads, bikes, cars, tractors, semis, trucks, building my buggy etc. And i see it every day being in parts looking out in the shop how screwed up things are getting with the addition of more and more computers. Ive just not gone this far into diagnosing a diesel. I have a ton of maintenance work to do to this thing as of right now. I've got an oily mess all over the engine oil cooler. My radiator is packed with junk from the blow by hose. I need to look for the KDP. Transmission needs to be serviced. I've never had the chance to check my diffs or transfer case fluids. I need to flush out all this nasty coolant and my water pump is just barely starting to seep as of about a couple months ago. Valve cover started to seep. I need to do a valve adjustment im at 163k now. I want to do injectors anyways. And i plan on getting a quadzilla as well. So if im digging in and pulling the vp i might as well do as much of the other things i can as well. I will mention that after talking to our diesel guy in the shop he said to look and see if the turbo is leaking oil at all. I've never seen any of these turbos leak oil in fact im not sure if i've ever seen one go bad. Thats not to say that they never do obviously it just seems unlikely to me.
  5. Update- So I'm getting the truck warmed up to leave for work. I let it idle for a minute before I hit the throttle to hold it at about 1200 rpm. Before I was ready to high idle i noticed a slight miss. So I hit the throttle and noticed it got way worse and started to put out more blue smoke. Shortly after the light came on so I scanned it and I get p0216, fuel timing error. That's the VP death code if I'm not mistaken. So I guess it's time to start shopping for a vp Edit: Gotta get fuel pressure figured out first. I've always had my doubts about the lift pump not being able to keep up and after some picture comparison i would say it is a fass pump but the real basic one with no filters or anything its just a pump. If it is my lift pump going bad i plan on getting one with filters and all that. Just would be nice to know my fuel is as clean as possible by the time it gets to the engine and vp. Probably going to be ordering a big line kit and fuel pressure gauge kit from vulcan performance here and figure out where i actually am with fuel pressure before i do anything else or waste money.
  6. It had gauges when i bought it but they were wired in with solid wire and rather than track down the break in the wire i just took it all out. The fuel pressure gauge port had to go when my fuel like developed a pin hole. The trans temp sensor was a big block of aluminum hose clamped to the transmission line and i wasnt very happy with the way it was marring the line so i took it off too. I cant eliminate air in the lines or fuel pressure yet so i'll probably end up getting that harbor freight tester. I dont need it to be 100% accurate but it would be good to know if my lift pump is failing me or not. It is not the stock lift pump i was told its a Fass but no idea if it actually is or what size it is. Shouldnt be any air restrictions its a cone filter so im not pulling air from the fender anymore and it is dirty but it can still move air through it. I was curious about the tap wire it seemed a little too close to the "intake manifold" part of the head and when i was unplugging the rest of the edge i couldnt get it to come off so i left it. But i was wondering if the tap could have been making contact and shorting out causing this to happen. But i think that would have definitely cause a code to trip the light.
  7. There is a code in there for the grid heater thats stored and the companion module code. Driving home yesterday from work with the edge disconnected it didnt act up at all. So it either coincidentally decided to stop acting up at the same time or the edge is at fault here.
  8. Thats so strange... I guess my p1689 code could have been the vp this entire time but it never got this bad. Or the amount of time i spent driving with it acting up could have actually done some harm i suppose. It just came out of nowhere this morning its been running beautifully for weeks now. I'll see if i can get it to throw anything for a code on my way home. I cant say i've wanted a check engine light before now but at this point i guess there isnt a whole lot of other things i can do unless i wanna start throwing money at it. The real bi**h is that i had a spare vp but i sold it because i was in a real bad spot a while back...
  9. I'll be leaving work here in an hour or so and im gonna have the wife follow me home while i limp it back so its not stuck in the work parking lot. I'll get a mechanical gauge on it when i can but i dont have one right now so i need to buy one. Or i can use this as an opportunity to finally get a gauge mounted on the pillar. Not a single code was thrown today. I got nothing in there right now. Honestly at this point im just nervous about the blue smoke. It was distinctly different from any other color smoke that has ever come out of that tailpipe and definitely the dreaded oily blue smoke. In the back of my mind theres that worrisome thought that i messed up some rings or a piston somehow and its causing me to burn oil. But at idle it sounds just like it always did.
  10. So I'm back.. started the 2 stroke oil. P1689 hasn't been giving me any trouble for a while. Today while driving to work someone came to a complete stop in the middle of the road so to keep moving I stepped on it to pass and go around them. As soon as i stepped on it I had nothing. It was acting like the p1689 problems i was having but 10x worse. On my lunch break a minute ago I drive to go pick up cigarettes and it's doing it some more but very minor by comparison. On my way back to work I was barely able to make it up this slight hill and i had little to no power and was blowing blue (oil?) smoke the entire way. Now to fill in some details, I may have done too much oil in the fuel on my last full up by about 2 or 3 ounces. I tried the edge on stock mode with no change so I just disconnected it but haven't driven it that way yet. In park in my parking spot I was revving it to try and get it to act up so I could hear what is going on and it ran/sounded fine with the exception of a very minor hiccup that I could barely tell was there. I'm assuming my next step needs to be getting a mechanical gauge and check fuel pressure. But that's where I'm drawing a blank. Not really sure what direction to go with this. I wish I had the ability to data log I feel like that would give me the extra input I need.
  11. 2000Ram2500

    P1689

    I forgot to mention that I replaced the map sensor as well with no change. That was when i discovered it was the original map sensor that was in there. Has the cummins number stamped in it anyways so it was at least a factory replacement. But like i said i just messed with a bunch of connectors and its been working ever since. Just doesnt make a whole lot of sense that the map sensor would cause a loss of communication code for 2 completely seperate components. I am lucky so far that i havent had to mess with any of the factory wiring yet with the exception of the w-t mod all my original connectors are intact. I have a bad feeling i will have to repair the vp plug at some point though the insulation on the wires right where they go into the plug are looking pretty rough. But its not a problem yet because after running all the tests it checked out in good shape.
  12. 2000Ram2500

    P1689

    I havent updated this so Im just gonna post my results. I got a new plug to replace the edge side of the data link connector. Drove it a few days and problem comes back. I noticed that my edge wasnt giving me a boost reading. I started a thread on that because i thought it was a seperate issue. And as I found out then I needed to replace my map plug on the edge side as well. That didnt fix it so i jiggled some connectors around and it went away. It has been several weeks now I think since then and still running strong. Im posting here updating now because I remember seeing somewhere it was mentioned that a bad map sensor was the culprit of this problem.
  13. 2000Ram2500

    Wastegate spring?

    @Marcus2000monster we'll see how this weekend goes I might do some running around and gather up some parts.
  14. Just started running 2 stroke oil and its definitely different. Seems to run smoother on the highway and quieter on a cold start in the morning. It's down to the high 30s here now and not that it's that cold but it should have made more racket compared to how it used to sound.
×