Tractorman

Of course you can. You asked, "should I flush the system and add back the CORRECT power steering fluid OR should I buy a new hydroboost module?" and you also asked, "so should I flush the system and prepare for replacing gaskets or should I flush the system in preparation of replacing the hydroboost?" I gave you my personal recommendation. I based my new hydroboost replacement decision on the fact that my OEM hydroboost gave flawless service for 24 years and 393,000 miles. I didn't want to put a seal kit in this unit because, even though it would fix the leak, all of the internal components still had 24 years and 393,000 miles of operation on them. There is sophisticated valving inside the unit and an accumulator that has an unknown state of pre-charge after all the years gone by. I hold high regard for safety in braking components, such as the booster and the master cylinder, so I prefer to buy new - not rebuild or reseal. John

The 2002 FSM states: CAUTION: Use MOPAR Power Steering Fluid or equivalent. Do not use automatic transmission fluid and do not overfill. Even though you used ATF, it probably didn't cause your leak - after all, you have gotten a lot of miles out of the unit. My personal recommendation is to replace the hydroboost with a NEW unit. They can be purchased at Parts Geek or Rock Auto for a reasonable price. Flush the power steering system and use a quality power steering fluid of your choice. I replaced my hydroboost a year and a half ago at 393,000 miles (it started to drip fluid). I purchased the Parts Geek unit (new) and it has performed well for the last 10,000 miles. Whichever way you go, make sure the push rod length (hydro to master cylinder) is correct - very important and the manufacturers don't seem to pay much attention to that detail. I had to cut mine shorter to ensure the free play measurement was correct. John

What about temporarily testing with a Voltmeter? Connect one lead to the OR/BK wire from terminal #11 at Connector #2 PCM connector and the other lead to ground and go for a test drive. When TCC is unlocked - 12 volts should be present. With the TCC locked - 0 volts should be present. You might get some useful information with this test and it doesn't cost anything to perform. John

I used a Standard Motor Products VCP112 electric vacuum pump for my application. It was less than $100 from Parts Geek. This vacuum pump regulates pressure from 13" HG to 15" HG and there is no flow rating listed. It is suitable for my application because it only supplies vacuum to the HVAC and the 4WD CAD unit. My cruise control is operated by the ECM, so no vacuum servo is used. If you are going to use a vacuum servo, then air flow volume could be a concern for you. My previous exhaust brake was vacuum controlled. The reduced volume of the SMP VCP112 made the exhaust brake slow to actuate and to release, which was not acceptable for me. That didn't matter at the time because I replaced the vacuum operated Jacobs exhaust brake with a PacBrake PRXB and air compressor at the time of the vacuum pump / power steering pump conversion. @Mace, who provided the information for this conversion, uses a similar vacuum pump as mine. He noted the delay of his exhaust brake operation as well, but it was acceptable for him. Parts needed for Vacuum Pump Conversion and Power Steering Pump Conversion by @Mace . Vacuum Pump Conversion CON166 - pump connector (Rockauto) VCP112 - vacuum pump (Rockauto) Vacuum hose Mini fuse tap connector 4 pin relay & base connector Power Steering Pump Conversion 4002056 plug - Cummins RES0161 reservoir - Rockauto 4988390 pump kit - Cummins performance.com M20x1.5 to 6 jic fitting The description for these mods is in the following thread. John

Good lookin' truck ya got there. 406,000 on my 2002, 4WD 6 spd (bought it new in October, 2001) John

Congratulations!!! Are you feeling euphoric? I have been waiting for you post. Now that your truck has thoroughly tested you and you won, the truck should behave itself for the rest of its life under your ownership. John

Good to have another source for ECM repairs. Also, glad to hear that your truck is running well. Just for clarification, the ECM does run the lift pump for about 1/4 second when the ignition switch is turned on. If the starter is bumped and then the key is released, the lift pump will run for approx 25 seconds. From the FSM (2002): The transfer pump is self-priming: When the key is first turned on (without cranking engine), the pump will operate for approximately 1/4 second and then shut off. The pump will also operate for up to 25 seconds after the starter is engaged, and then disengaged and the engine is not running. The pump shuts off immediately if the key is on and the engine stops running. John

I think you have found the issue. I also strongly think that the noise that you have been hearing is mechanical. I think the noise faded away when you disabled one cylinder and when you ran the engine with the ECM out of the loop because you changed the cadence or resonance of the engine in motion, thus changing the movement behavior of the loose tone ring piece. This would also explain why no code was set for the crankshaft sensor and why the engine performed as it should - not a timing issue. I think your perseverance has paid off. Great job on your part! Post a photo the tone ring. John

Good to hear back from you. I am hoping that you are on the right path and that you have finally found a solution to your forever lasting symptoms. Of course, you know that when this is fixed, you will constantly be hearing random phantom ticking noises for at least six months - then you can finally relax. John

I mounted mine on the lower part of the factory air filter housing right next to the battery. My guess is that you probably don't have a factory air filter housing. John

I won't be able to offer any help - I am responding because you haven't received a response yet and I didn't want you to think you were being ignored. From reading your post it seems that you have been very thorough in trying to get your issue resolved. You have checked everything that I can think of that needs to be checked. Maybe @Mopar1973Man will respond now that I have flagged him. He is knowledgeable in this area. John

Correction - This moves ECM, VP and grid heater relay grounds from the right battery to the left battery. From W-T: John

The photo below shows a 250 amp fuse and fuse holder similar to the style of fuse that I used. My fuse is 150 amp and has been reliable for over 3 years and over 30,000 miles. John

The 140 amp fuse is not there to protect the alternator. It is there for safety reasons in case the alternator or alternator output wiring shorted directly to ground. A fire could easily be started from the large amount of stored energy available from two large batteries that would have a direct path to ground if the alternator output circuit was not fused. By adding a non-fused second output wire, you are contributing to the potential for a fire. Personally, I would remove the old alternator output wire to the 140 amp fuse. I would run a single wire of the correct diameter through a suitable 250 amp fuse to the passenger side battery. The W-T Ground Reference mod wires the alternator output to the passenger side battery as part of the rewiring procedure. John

Then fill your radiator 50/50 (water/oil) so the o-ring will stay well lubed! .... just kidding! I do understand that you are trying to make something better. John