2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I’m pretty sure this has been covered, but I can’t find it. So the way I understand this the alternator feed into the PDC is eliminated. There is a 140 amp fusible link between the two hot leads going into the PDC what is the purpose of this? Do I need to bring that second lead going into the PDC to the driver side battery or is this not needed?

Can someone please direct me to the write up on this or share a link. I’ve been all over looking for it.

Greetings, Long time listener, firl time caller here. TLDR: When cold, the transmission sometimes stalls the engine, but only once. Trans new - Firepunk, billet torque converter. EDIT - No Codes present Video with the issue posted on bottom of this post. So I recently moved back to the states from a long stint living overseas, and I picked up a 99 4x4 A/T truck. Power wise, the truck is completely stock apart from an Edge EZ the PO installed. Everything was great, except the trans would not lockup in O/D. Following many suggeestions from here that could have an effect on the lockup, I realized this was a torque converter issue. I ended up deciding to bite the bullet an…

So my insulation between my tappet cover and ecm was completely shot. I'd there a real need to replace this?

I've seen that some of the tappet covers have a breather on them. Mine has a little box the sticks out near the back, with a plate there on the inside. No clue on the purpose of that. But just wondering if there would be any reason to add a breather there like some have

I’m having troubles finding a wiring diagram for the main harness into the power distribution center on a 2001 Dodge cummins. See attached photo. Can anyone help? Thanks!

Beast lost his hydrobooster while my wife and I were down in Boise. While I was down in Boise, I made the call and got a hydrobooster ordered, thinking just direct replacement. Nope! Be aware... The documents in the box from NAPA are very clear; you need to swap parts from your old unit to make the new unit work. The shaft that pushes the master cylinder, you might have to swap as I did. The new shaft was 10mm too long, which is the brake dragging issue. Then the rubber boot on the input shaft has be pryed off the input shaft collar. Yea! I got that. Then, the adapter plate that mounts the brake reservoir / master cylinder. The removal was fairly straightforward. 15…

I'm sorry, gang, I've been randomly missing in action from time to time, but with everything going on, it's tough to be at home for long periods, then when I'm home, to get wrapped up with the dirt work all this last summer. Winter weather is coming, I need a 4wd truck! With winter setting in, @Tweety Bird and I will be home more! Cancer-wise wise I'm doing well, 1.5 years clean of cancer. Beast made the 500k milestoneNow Beast is going to require some work to get fixed up, being I've abused the old truck for a while, being short on funds during my cancer treatment. I've got a list of things I need to do, and I want to get busy with a little bit of funds to fix Beast. T…

For those who own trucks with a CAD (center axle disconnect) front axle, this article will explain the benefits of remotely controlling the CAD operation and will also provide information on how to make the modification. For those who are not familiar with a front axle CAD unit, the following description may help. OEM vehicle - manually shifted transfer case (with CAD) - Theory of Operation The CAD front axle has three axle shafts - a driver side axle shaft, a passenger side axle shaft, and a short center axle shaft. The passenger side axle shaft and the center axle shaft can be connected or disconnected by the CAD unit. The center axle shaft is called the intermediate…

Hello, I recently bought another truck non running of course, price was good and truck is clean and no rust so I figured why not. I’m going to try an explain everything thoroughly start to finish. The previous owner (diesel mechanic) bought it off a customer and tried to get it running. He lost interest. He had told me the only way he got the truck to run was he cut the bus wires in the injection pump. When I started investing I found the dash harness to be the wrong one, truck is fully loaded heated leather and had a basic dash harness in it. It appeared someone swapped the dash out. (Will make sense later keep reading) I found the correct dash harness for the truck par…

Good morning everyone! Here’s the story, might be a little long but I want to give every detail so it makes it easier, bought an 01 24valve auto off a used car lot not running dirt cheap. Guy didn’t seem to understand these trucks. Only mods are a fass DDRP, nothing else truck has 140k, and a new reman trans, very carefully inspected truck and no prior meatball repairs or hacked wiring. upon first arriving at the lot here’s what I did. - trucks battery terminals were beat/ corroded, managed to get them tight and partially clean -found fuel relay missing out of fuse box under hood, swapped with horn relay and truck fired, ram very poorly but was enough to get on …

Anyone with a quadzilla use the factory tunes? I’ll be getting a tune from 1badvp44 here soon but in the meantime was gonna use the factory ones. I tow and daily drive and was curious if anyone had a preferred level for it. I’m coming from an edge juice that I usually left on 2 or 3. I picked up the quadzilla after many reads on here and Cummins forum. I have studied the tuning guide and I don’t have much understanding after reading it. My trucks a 98.5 with a 5 speed and stock tires with upgraded clutch and a FASS. With my edge, Level 2 was my tow/daily tune and 3 was when I was around the city, and of course 5 was when I was messing around. I don’t really have a compari…

Hello everybody, I used to have a Quadzilla Xzt and had the 3000 tune on it and I just got another Xzt and I was wondering how or if I I can put the 3000 tune on my new one. Thanks

It’s time to “spring” into action! 8 leaf 4000 lb pack 2 leaf 1150 lb overloads New shackles (All from Rockauto) I used 4” blocks from ProForm Fabrication (they’re also tapered to get the pinion angle straight too). I didn’t want the *** end to sit up super duper high so to compensate for the thicker pack I used slightly shorter blocks (my oem blocks are 4.5” tall). Old leaf pack is 2” thick and the new ones are 3-9/16“. The bolt by the fuel tank is not really an issue. Just cut it off flush with the hanger and you can drive it all the way in without hitting the tank. You can fish it out with a magnet and then put the new bolt in from the outside. I used locally made…

WOLFBOX G850 PRO 4K Mirror Dash Camhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DD3NV7PX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title With all the miles I've put down on Beast and all the wild stuff I've seen, now I can capture this stuff for future proof. I'm very pleased with the product and the function. I'll admit I've not finished the installation of the rear camera completely on the rear bumper. I tucked it in at the rear window for now, but the other functions, like lane departure warning, are incorrect because the camera location is wrong. Huge menu of options that make the whole camera part very universal for any vehicle. The 2 camera and 3 different views of the cameras. (Default is Rea…

So I finally have my new engine installed ( bone stock rotating assembly except I did put a tow cam in it) and im looking at engine break in procedures they all recommend towing decent weight no idle time ect all makes sense but I have 2 questions 1 ) should I run higher timing with the quadzilla to try and raise cylinder pressure for better ring seal? 2) highly contrivosal but does anyone recommend a break in oil if so what type? Ill be switching to Synthetic after the first 1000 miles and changing oil after the first 400-500 miles ( block has been sitting for years so lots of dirt and such probably in it)

When I started my truck the first time with the new ECM the fuel pressure was at its normal range of 14-15psi. After I shut the truck off I replaced a wire on my switch box and accidentally knocked a wire from the fuel pump relay. When I started it again I noticed I had zero pressure. Thinking I could figure it out quickly, the truck ran out of fuel. Once it was sorted the truck obviously wouldn’t start. I loosened the fass filter and ran the pump until it gushed and then retightened. I then cracked 2 injectors and cranked until they bubbled out fuel. The truck runs but now it takes a a few extra seconds of cranking when cold to start and the fuel pressure gauge d…

I picked up a 2000 Ram 2500 with the Cummins a few months ago. The PO said that he'd replaced the fuel pump a couple of times, which I should have paid more attention to. Ran fine though for a few months. Recently I had a big miss, or shudder under heavy acceleration onto a highway but ran fine for the rest of the trip. It happened several more times on later trips, usually at gradual acceleration. No CEL at that time. I did get the 0237 code, so got a new MAP sensor hoping that would fix it, but it didn't. I cleaned all grounds and harness connectors. Since then, a few test drives have been OK, with no missing, but even though I cleared the codes, they come…

Was pulling my car trailer the other day (empty) when I got into the throttle just a little to get across the intersection, the rear yoke decided it'd had enough. So, does anyone have any suggestion on a good strong yoke? Does anyone make a yoke that uses u-bolts instead of straps? I have changed the front over to u-bolts but haven't found one for the rear. Dana 80 axle in 2000 ram 2500 L6 5 speed.

The time has come I can no longer put off replacing my tappet cover gasket. While in there I will be doing a re-seal of my vacuum pump also. Along with swapping in my hotrod vp44 from 98 cracked 53 block. I want to make sure I do everything I should while I've got it torn apart. Are there any other seals or anything else that I should be replacing while in it already?