KyleM94

Sorry for the gap between replies i checked those pins continuity is 0 ohms. I pulled the connector didnt see any spread pins or anything wires all seem connected good into the plastic. Im not sure what else i can do. This summer ill be pulling the dash and motor to put in a 24v and all wiring modules etc. is there a way i can run cruise control and ac without the PCM until then or no?

Will do i should be home for a but after today its outage season so work is pretty strong atm. Ill pull that plug and see whats what and check my continuity

I dont see any issues with the plugs on the female ends

Ill look at the plugs and see the pins looked ok when i cleaned the harness but ill look more thoroughly at it again

So i unplugged and plugged the pcm C3 in a couple times and OD light came back on im wondering if maybe the pcm isnt getting good connection should i use and grease or anything

I put the pcm back in this morning i have it just sitting with on screw holding it loosely for now i turned the key and the OD light isnt on anymore i have the ESS un plugged im gonna purchase a new one and gap it when i get a chance but the WTS still is staying on very curious

I had it all unwrapped and i cleaned all wiring and inspected it all ill have to look at it

Infinite continuity between PCM and ABS Pin 29/30 on C3 PCM and Pin 3/7 on ABS and i checked pin 29 to 3/7 and 30 to pin 3/7 just to be safe and nothing

Yup still not working i will check tonight

PCM came in today so fingers crossed although im not getting my hopes up No change so i think i should give up

I have an in cab meter thats in my switch panel for lights its at like 14.7v when running without lights but im going yo disconnect it when i put the pcm in and see if it gives me any response before hooking everything back up. When everything was working it was at 14.5 i think

Update on my PCM, got a text just now PCM was DOA according to builder. He told me to recheck all grounds and harness since he doesnt have another core if something fries this one. But he verified the replacement is working and communicating. So what should i triple check before installing PCM to make sure its not a installation error

Pcm is in the mail, noticed my aftermarket fuel level guage isnt reading anymore im guessing it has to do with the connection saying sensor return? Would that be a ground or 12v supply?

That is my thought but it is not giving me bias for the bus

.5/.6 v in pin 9 and 10 of C1 with PCM connected No bias at ABS module either Im gonna send the pcm to the builder tomorrow hes going to test it for me for communication and put it in a test truck What else should i check this is definitely a good indicator

I will test the bus for the cluster then and see what i get

Yeah im about out of ideas as well ill try terminals and the grounds by the kick panel. Is there a easy way to get that wiring to where its visible or no I ohmed the circuit from g200 to cluster for ground and from fuse 14 to the corresponding pins for WTS and OD it came out 0 resistance. So that leaves cluster or PCM I believe as the issue correct? With the cluster out can i test the 2 ccd bus pins in c1 for voltage or will that not work. But if its cluster why would the 99 cluster not work or are they incompatible

Plugs look good at pcm no burns or anything

I dont think they can be swapped around i think they are grooved to go only one way. I will re check power to PCM. I kinda am already going crazy i wish there was a way to get just the speedo and tach working it just doesnt make sense with what its doing. The only thing i can say cluster wise is when i have the original cluster in the odometer just blinks and the wts and od light are one immediately. If i put in the cluster from a 99 vp truck i will get no bus on the odometer as well as check engine light but the OD off light doesnt come on even though it lights up for cluster check showing its there. The VP cluster came from a manual truck that i got my trans from my truck originally was a 47re automatic i wonder why the lights are different between the 2 but both give me the same 2 codes when i checked C1 i went from the ground pin to the pin for power can’t remember the number i turned the key on and had my meter bridge the 2 pins and got 12.4v but i will double check grounds tomorrow

I disconnected C2 PCM witch has the WTS driver. Turned key OD light is on immediately WTS is off. Started engine cluster still dead

If i disconnect pcm lights are off, what do you mean like stuck in the self check from holding the trip meter then turning the key. If so then no, both of my clusters show the same thing

I have 5v at the ESS, Ground is 0 ohms. I really think it has to do with the WTS/OD light circuit both are connected by fuse 14 in the junction box. But if i pull that fuse both still light up witch im not understanding how thats possible? But again im not the best with electrical diagrams. Per the FSM both go through that fuse then to cluster then to the PCM im not sure if the PCM is grounding the circuit or what but i feel like if there was a way to test this circuit id find something. With having a 5 speed why would that light come on and its on immediately it just doesnt make any sense to me. Im hoping there is a way i can test the wiring for this somehow? Edit: ok so i see the ground for everything seems to go from C1 to G200/201 witch i assume is the grounding up by the parking brake/kick panel. I will be getting ohm readings for that as well as trying to clean everything. As far as everything goes through the diagnostics we’ve determined PCM has power PCM has ground PCM is sending 5v reference CCD Bus is at +/- .02v (actual readings ~2.53/2.55v witch could be my meter but lets just call it good for now) Cluster has power Joint connector 7 cleaned and reseated Joint connector 6 cleaned and reseated im curious if the fact we are getting bus bias does that rule out the possibility of the cluster being the culprit? Also i really dont think its PCM related, it started with my original pcm then i swapped in one from a working 98 12v that didnt change anything. This pcm i got from a builder was vin programmed and flashed and verified working and i had batteries unhooked when i put it in.

Ill check the 5v reference i stripped this harness down and cleaned everything re tapped and then loomed it. This PCM is new its the 3rd one ive tried but i can have it rechecked by the builder it has a warranty and hes only 2hrs from me. I have the auto wiring but its tucked away not used

Grounds came out good

i went KOEO positive to battery negative to ground pin and got the same voltage as the battery but i will check ohms