wakerc

they are reman from diesel care but they informed me (after I purchased them) they don't do them their selves, they get them from a supplier.

hey yall need some help here. Had to replace my injectors due to multiple bad injectors (shop did return flow test). Ordered injectors from diesel care and when I installed them the truck idled fine for about 5 minutes then i pulled out of drive and gave it a little bit of gas and heard a ting sound and truck started dumping white smoke with rough idle. Got back in garage, figured injector wasnt seated properly and pulled all injectors and tubes. One of them had a clean tip so i figured that was the injector that unseated. reinstalled everything, started it up and once again dumping white smoke with rough idle and a knock. Called diesel care and they suggested caping off each fuel line at the rail and see which one stops the smoking. they think that the system wasnt primed properly and air made injector stick open. Could this be the case? should i cap rail and see or should i pull all injectors and send all back (already not happy cus injectors i ordered were backordered and they sent me 40 overs instead of the 50's like I wanted)? Thanks for any help! 03 Cummins common rail Video of truck idling: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfDbbNmhbHs&feature=youtu.be

viewing the live data from autoscanner shows that M.A.P sensor reading is at 29 with engine off. doesn't sound right to me....

Thanks AH. I am going to try that first before messing with anything else. also if it is something with the fuel pressure, couldn't it also be the fuel pump not creating enough pressure? if so how could I distinguish between the pump and the injectors? cp3 builds the rail pressure correct?

no it wasn't plugged it. if I leave it plugged in over night it'll start just like it's 70 out. I ended up wiring up a switch to manually turn the heater grid on that still allows the ecm to turn the grid on also. Even after that the problem still exists; if It's below 40 degrees out and the truck sits for more than 4 hours with out being plugged in it will not start even with the heater grid workin properly. EX: left unplugged lastnight, went to start this morning (30 degrees out) and nothing. have to leave plugged in for atleast 40 mins till it will start. :banghead: MoparMan: you said it could be a leaky injector. is there any way to narrow it down to a specific injector or do I just have to pull them all and go get them tested? local shop charges $68 per injector to inspect, test, and clean. Im not noticing any white smoke ever like a couple people have said to look for but also I have dual 6" stacks so its hard to tell. Thanks Yall

Thanks, Ill try this. two questions, to check the ohms using a multimeter, which setting would be best? also, is it normal that this is happening but yet i havent had any codes come up? - - - Updated - - - Thanks, Ill try this. two questions, to check the ohms using a multimeter, which setting would be best? also, is it normal that this is happening but yet i havent had any codes come up?

I have searched all over for days and cannot seem to find anything to help that applies to a 3rd gen. Issue: When I try to cold start (after truck sitting all night and it below 40 degrees out) the truck simply wont turnover unless I leave it plugged in all night. i'm talking NOT AT ALL. then I figured out that the WTS light is only staying on for a max of 3 seconds when cold so the grid heater isn't cycling long enough to warm up. it will stay on for the regular 10 seconds but only when the truck is at operating temp and shut it off and immediately turn it back on. What I have done: installed new grid heater, installed new IAT, and monitored IAT readings with scanguage. I found out that when the engine is cold the IAT reading is saying 115-122 degrees. after starting the temp slowly drops down to what is an expected temp. All this was checked when it was around 30 degrees out. Ideas: possible short in wiring harness? dying/confused ECM? Any and all help would be appreciated