yohon

I wasn't sure if it needed to be circulating at all times so I put a 3 way valve on mine to "bypass" the heater core didn't want to take a chance after I broke the last head stud.

The rebuild kit i got had one for it https://ebay.us/m/U9ICf1 I will say its a easy rebuild but not much use all your really doing is re sealing the system I never could find replacement punp "vanes"

Any update on this? I did the same thing to mine along with a new evaporator and was disappointed with the results. Im about to add cut off valves to the heater core and inslate the ac lines from the orfice to the cab and see if that helps.

Thats a good point. I just rebuilt my power steering pump and was shocked how much was on the magnet especially since the only worn part i found was the aluminum sleeve the whole pump shaft rides on my only thought was it must be from the gear box. Im about to find and read your original article and add a filter to mine along with a cooler.

That's cool to see. Have you checked the magnet in the pump?

Motor is just about ready to go in. Can anyone get me a measurment from the bottom of the closed hood to the top if the valve cover? Im looking at a 4 in thick water to air intercooler I'll install if the water methanol don't work. But I never got that measurement before I pulled the motor.

Thats not bad at all thank you for checking my water methanol pump draws about 15 and im looking at adding a small fan for the tran cooler and ac condenser seat heater and cooler any possibly upgrading the factory raido so electrical power is high on my worry list. Thankfully im in texas and have my grid heaters disconnected.

Awesome is the power steering pump rebuild pretty self explanatory?

I'll have to look into it for sure. Any idea the electrical load of the remote vacuum pump?

Finally got the vacuum pump and power steering pump out and need some advice. Should I replace these units? They are both OEM and have almost 300k with no obvious leaks on them vacuum pump i can rebuild and found seals for it. The power steering pump makes me nervous oil in it looks like crude oil. I hate to get a reman and it be worse then I one I have. I did find a link talking about rebuilding it. But the link didn't work I also found a article on this site about hot roding the pump ( drilling out the orfice slightly) and I'll for sure do that. Any chance anyone has a working link on how to rebuild these? Or know of a reliable aftermarket pump.

Build is progressing slowly then id like but trying to do it right the first time. Slow transferring all the parts to the new long block but got the turbo drilled tapped for water methanol and gasket matched the manifold and the turbo.

Will absolutely be careful with it. This is indeed my daily driver and If im being honest with myself at all I will be converting back to a intercooler when this doesn't work. But I have to try and fail or else I'll always wonder.

Has anyone used the pusher style intakes? ( with the cross air) they have a somewhat novel idea of removing the freeze plug back by cylinder 6 and running tubing off the intake horn to it im looking at ways to ensure good air distribution and this came up. Short of milling off the intake shelf its one of the only options it see. Is it worth trying?

Absolutely its dangerous But the old 89-91 cummins were non intercooled. Granted they only made 160hp but many got turned up although they also recommend running intercoolers once they got much above stock. I think between the water methanol and the quadzilla ill let least be able to keep the truck from killing itself. Im gonna start with the 50hp injectors and if I cant keep intake temps below 300 degrees ill insert a small water to air intercooler and if that dont work ill convert back to factory.

Well have to pull the engine due to a broken head stud and I think im gonna go ahead and convert over to non intercooled and run the water methanol and see how this does. What do you all recommend on injector sizing? I have 200 125 and 50 hp sticks to chose from.

I see alot of common rail fokes have upgraded their factory bosh 136 amp units to 220 amp units from 6.7l is this possible for the 2nd gens? I know factory units were regulated by the pcm and I think the new ones are regulated internally. Any downfall to this? Got my truck completed blown apart and figured now is the time.

O Riley surprised the heck out of me by having one on hand for 5$ thank you for the help

Got one more problem. One valve spring has rust at the base and its rather bad. Does anyone sell just 1 valve spring? The rest are all stock and apear new. Just one looks like it got wet. Should I rob one from the old engine?

That is the first ray of sunshine I have heard. Is love to tighten this transmission up but for sure dont want to grenade the transmission. I'll call power driven/dap and see what I can do

Did you get by without a billet input shaft? I've seen alot of fokes say you don't need them unless you do boosted launches or are pushing big power.

Had the thought today of while the engine and transmission apart should I upgrade my single disc torque converter? Transmission has had pan off upgrades done and it was rebuilt a few years ago when it was rebuilt we were in a tight spot and all I could afford was a basic single disc billet. I dont beat on the truck hardly ever tow but the transmission has always felt like mud till the OD locked up. I would think a lower rpm stall would also be good but no clue how low is good. Any suggestions on brands? stall speed? Should I just run the billet single?

The Napa in town just shut down a year ago. The orileys is pretty solid guys but their parts are just terrible this was actually the in house brand and it only lasted 2 years under warranty but that dont help when your on the side of the road lol.

Sad to think a 68$ water pump is what killed this mighty cummins.

That head curl makes sense I took my broken head stud into work and had one of the material engineers look at it and what he had to say was that it was brittle fracture. His suspicion was that it was over hardened he also pointed out that it broke on the first thread on the bottom so that might have been a stress riser for it. That part of the head is the hottest section right next to the turbo is. I have my turbo and exaust header heavily insulated with rockwoll. My water pump went out last week and the truck got to 240° ( immediately turned the heater on and slowed down and it quickly droped back to 195. I think this event is when it broke. As much as I hate to say it I dont think im going to buy exotic head studs again I think the temper was bad coupled with some extraneous circumstances on my end but I still dont think it should have failed. Especially since the highest boost my truck has seen for the last 3 weeks was 12psi.

I do think I will convert 1 of my boost gages to monitor drive pressure. By doing the guides and seals are you referring to upgrading the valves and seals or just redoing them back to oem spec?