yohon

Will absolutely be careful with it. This is indeed my daily driver and If im being honest with myself at all I will be converting back to a intercooler when this doesn't work. But I have to try and fail or else I'll always wonder.

Has anyone used the pusher style intakes? ( with the cross air) they have a somewhat novel idea of removing the freeze plug back by cylinder 6 and running tubing off the intake horn to it im looking at ways to ensure good air distribution and this came up. Short of milling off the intake shelf its one of the only options it see. Is it worth trying?

Absolutely its dangerous But the old 89-91 cummins were non intercooled. Granted they only made 160hp but many got turned up although they also recommend running intercoolers once they got much above stock. I think between the water methanol and the quadzilla ill let least be able to keep the truck from killing itself. Im gonna start with the 50hp injectors and if I cant keep intake temps below 300 degrees ill insert a small water to air intercooler and if that dont work ill convert back to factory.

Well have to pull the engine due to a broken head stud and I think im gonna go ahead and convert over to non intercooled and run the water methanol and see how this does. What do you all recommend on injector sizing? I have 200 125 and 50 hp sticks to chose from.

I see alot of common rail fokes have upgraded their factory bosh 136 amp units to 220 amp units from 6.7l is this possible for the 2nd gens? I know factory units were regulated by the pcm and I think the new ones are regulated internally. Any downfall to this? Got my truck completed blown apart and figured now is the time.

O Riley surprised the heck out of me by having one on hand for 5$ thank you for the help

Got one more problem. One valve spring has rust at the base and its rather bad. Does anyone sell just 1 valve spring? The rest are all stock and apear new. Just one looks like it got wet. Should I rob one from the old engine?

That is the first ray of sunshine I have heard. Is love to tighten this transmission up but for sure dont want to grenade the transmission. I'll call power driven/dap and see what I can do

Did you get by without a billet input shaft? I've seen alot of fokes say you don't need them unless you do boosted launches or are pushing big power.

Had the thought today of while the engine and transmission apart should I upgrade my single disc torque converter? Transmission has had pan off upgrades done and it was rebuilt a few years ago when it was rebuilt we were in a tight spot and all I could afford was a basic single disc billet. I dont beat on the truck hardly ever tow but the transmission has always felt like mud till the OD locked up. I would think a lower rpm stall would also be good but no clue how low is good. Any suggestions on brands? stall speed? Should I just run the billet single?

The Napa in town just shut down a year ago. The orileys is pretty solid guys but their parts are just terrible this was actually the in house brand and it only lasted 2 years under warranty but that dont help when your on the side of the road lol.

Sad to think a 68$ water pump is what killed this mighty cummins.

That head curl makes sense I took my broken head stud into work and had one of the material engineers look at it and what he had to say was that it was brittle fracture. His suspicion was that it was over hardened he also pointed out that it broke on the first thread on the bottom so that might have been a stress riser for it. That part of the head is the hottest section right next to the turbo is. I have my turbo and exaust header heavily insulated with rockwoll. My water pump went out last week and the truck got to 240° ( immediately turned the heater on and slowed down and it quickly droped back to 195. I think this event is when it broke. As much as I hate to say it I dont think im going to buy exotic head studs again I think the temper was bad coupled with some extraneous circumstances on my end but I still dont think it should have failed. Especially since the highest boost my truck has seen for the last 3 weeks was 12psi.

I do think I will convert 1 of my boost gages to monitor drive pressure. By doing the guides and seals are you referring to upgrading the valves and seals or just redoing them back to oem spec?

It sounds like 500 is going to be a good goal for me as well. I hate to take this long block apart so I think I'll run it how it is. But im still pending a quote from the machine shop to install o rings port the head and lap the valves. But I ordered a towing cam from Hamilton a new exaust manifold and a set of headstuds. I will gasket match the exhaust manifold (and wrap it) and the exhaust head. I think I'll still run the stock valve train (no plan in exceedingthe stock 3200 rpm) anything else I should upgrade or change while the engine is out?

Found out today I have a 2 piece head bolt. So truck is parked for now and i found a new long block for 3k. Ideally if im going to swap the motor I want to build it prior to. All supporting mods aside whats the best set up for a vp44 truck? I know we tap out around 700 hp which suits me fine. I think I would like to do a cam and cnc ported head. I dont plan on exceeding 3500 rpm so do I need valve springs? Fire ring or o ring ( compunds are probably in the future) what else am I missing should I step up to 14mm head studs?

OK sorry its so late of a reply but we figured it out the pre filters on these trucks has a check valve in it ( for some reason) this particular mopar filter had the check valve too far down in the filter "core" ( when the filter is properly installed a push rod touches the filter body and holds open the check valve) this caused the truck to starve for fuel ( not to mention the air leak at the front filter) i have no clue how this guy made it to work but it explains why we couldn't get a prime afterwards! Thank yall for your help

Hmm it might just be a working pump then but weak and is not able to push fuel all the way to the front fuel filter. Any clue what a healthy pressure or flow rate should be on a stock lift pump?

Agree should have been one of the first upgrades to this guy's truck. I'm just trying to get him out of the parking lot for now. Does anyone have a diagram of a common rail fuel system? I cant figure out why I have fuel at the pre filter but nothing at the filter in the engine bay. Thinking their might be a check valve or a regulator thats stuck.

That was my initial thought. Trucks on side of the road so didn't have a tester but cycled the key with the pre filter lines removed and verified in tank pump was pumping. Do these trucks have 2 lift pumps?

Need help figuring out these new fangled 6.7 a friend of mine at work asked if I could look over his truck he just got an oil change at a jiffy lube and it was running rough after. I drive a older 24v and work on it constantly so I figured they cant be too difficult or different. Check the engine bay fuel filter first thing and sure as **** no o ring on the fuel filter cap and it was insanely tight. Bought a o ring threw it in ( tightened the bolts that hold the housing to the block was missing a bolt and others were loose) crank the key over to prime and nothing. Do a little googling pull the lid of and look at level and nothing no priming. Checked the lines at the pre filter ( one under the bed) and something is pumping unhooked and verified fuel in and fuel out when key is cycled. Got copious amounts of fuel rained over me. Re installed and still no prime. I am completely lost. He drove the truck 30 min to work after the oil /filter change but when we fixed the air leak on the filter cap absolutely no prime but the lift pump is pumping? Is their a check valve suck closed or a regulator that is not letting fuel to the filter housing. Any help is appreciated Sorry forgot to mention truck in question is a 2012 2500 4x4 crew cab that has been deleted

Makes sense thank you tractorman!

Man I love the quadzilla. The fact you can do that is amazing. I sat down and had a long hard think about it and I think I'll stick with a single for now. I dont trust my transmission that much for twins or the factory heads I'd rather save my time and money and mess with water methanol and air to water intercooling.

I guess I'm not that familiar with 12vs but I thought they had basically the same injector set up with a different pop pressure and the P pump do they machine the crossover tubes?

Has anyone messed with different thickness injector washers on 24v? Doing some searching and it's a thing for 12vs but I can't find nothing on 24vs. The theory is the further in or out of the hole the injector determined where the spray pattern hit in the bowl of the piston.